Відео

Put a bead of silicone RTV inside each of the rubber and plastic connections. Then tighten up the clamps.

Hi. The rear door works the same as the other doors in that it has an actuator that will electrically move the lock bar linkage to either the lock or unlock position. Are you able to open the rear door or is it stuck in the locked position?

Thank bro. I stopped doing them a few years ago but still have Shrek.

Sounds like the master window switch (driver door). Don’t replace the passenger switch until the master is done. Everything travels through the master. Most times you can jerk the master switch off and it will start working. Put a little backwards push on the switch while jerking it off. If the master starts working then try all the other switches. If they work then replace the master.

@@robbo6460 i do not understand your wording " jerk the master switch off " ?? Are you saying front driver side is the master ? Are you saying remove front driver side switch from door? Front driver side switch works correct for both front door windows and all locks, but does not work rear door windows either side. I removed both rear door window switches and disassembled them, and cleaned with electrical spray cleaner. They looked fine inside ( have not reinstalled or tried yet. ) i am heading to a junk yard today to try and find other driver side front, driver side rear, passenger side rear switches. With the electronic boards in the switches, it does not look like you can ohm with a meter without them being under power ? Thanks for your reply

@@christopherpeterson1400 yes the driver door switch is the master window switch. Jerk off means push the rear window buttons on the driver door switch putting backwards pressure on the switch buttons and see if the rear windows start working. Put the rear switches back in to do it.

@@robbo6460 it turned out to be both rear door window switches.. replaced them and now everything works front and back .. Thank you for the help

@@christopherpeterson1400 wow both? That’s rare. Glad your good.

Try Isuzu Trooper Mafia on Facebook. It's a group of Trooper people that care.

eBay

I'm sorry I did the front once but it was so long ago I forgot.

I just had that also. LR regulator failed and I had a spare. I hooked it up and the rubber that connects the metal triangle to the gear was dry rotten and slipping. Shrek is a 98 so at some point they are gonna fail due to age. I bought a new regulator off eBay and it works fine.

I got them off eBay.

Wow. I'm not a transmission guy but I would check a few things before condemning the transmission. I would drop the pan again and pull the filter again for anything else in there. I would also pull the shift solenoids and see if anything is in the passages. This feels like your best option to me. If the system ran dry because the pickup was blocked then your plates are most likely burnt. If that's the case your looking at a rebuild unfortunately. Join the Isuzu Mafia on Facebook and post your question again for them. There is also a guy who rebuilds them and swaps them out for you. It's cheaper then a transmission shop because you pull yours and install the rebuilt one. Hopefully my first suggestion shows a clogged valve or passage and it's a simple fix.

Thanks. I don't drive him much anymore. Time. Not enough of it.

Unfortunately no I don't. They were just L brackets.

did you ever got it fixed? i have the same 02 isuzu axiom which my trans went out just yesterday.

@@jumpeven6100 I set the project aside for the winter. Here's what I have done so far. I removed and cleaned the transmission pan, replaced the a&b solinoids and the filter. I only have first and reverse gear but thats an improvement over having only reverse. I can put the vehicle in any gear and it will squeal the tires. Again that an improvement over doing nothing in any gear but reverse prior. I plan to check the switch on the drivers outside of the transmission by the shifter. Sorry, I just can't thing of the name of the switch off hand at the moment. I also have a TOD light on so I need to address that Issue also. My big improvement was that it wouldn't go into winter mode before but now it does. I was able to get it to run in winter gear when the fluid was cold but not hot. That tells me at least I know 3rd gear is possible. I bought the vehicle used with the transmission not working in hopes of salvaging the transmission back to working mode. My immediate diagnosis was that the fluid was low and it came out black. Ya, I know that means burnt but it gets worse. The pan and magnet was full of fine gray shaving dust and I know the transmission is dirty inside. I know its a long shot but I believe I will get it at least functioning again when I get it cleaned out. I'll change the fluid a couple of times or flush the trans fluid after I get more improved. I plan to put the Axiom on blocks and run the trans for a bit in 4x4 before I flush the fluid as well. Last but not least, I hear a clanking noise for a moment when I'm at 1500 rpm in first gear. Not sure what that is but it seems like it might be from the TOD system, I'll look into that as well. Good luck with your transmission and please share any successes you may have. P.S. I did adjust the transmission bands as well.

I never pulled the camshafts. The gears came off and the seals went in from the front.

​@@robbo6460 u just pry them camshaft seals out? Got new seals just want to make sure I don't hurt anything...

​@@baluskisworld yes.

I bought my brackets from a guy on our Facebook group....Isuzu Trooper Mafia. He's no longer there but plenty of guys can help. It's been a while but I believe surco makes them. Join that group and ask.

I never did. If you need something specific let me know and I'll get them for you.

Thanks. 16 inch rims. 285/75-16 tires.

No and I live in Central Florida where it rains like a monsoon daily.

@@robbo6460 great, thank you! Greetings from Honduras

Hey thanks. That was a car lot I owned. I put in a midrise pit lift. Boy I miss it.

Should be pretty easy to check if it's in time.

@@robbo6460 yea the passenger cam is off to much

Hey. Believe it or not I'm thinking of selling Shrek myself. I feel like he deserves to be used and I'm not wheeling anymore. Thanks for offering. If your on Facebook join the Trooper Mafia and Trader. Someone on there will want it for sure.

P0155 has nothing to do with the AC. That's an o2 sensor heating element code. The AC should be checked by a pro. Lot's of things can cause a compressor to not engage. Low freon. Blown fuse. Bad dash controller. All need to be diagnosed. A pro will get you there faster and cheaper than guessing.

No I didn't. I probably could because Shrek gets 10-11mpg maximum. Which sucks with 4 dollar gas

I believe M6 x 1.25

P0101 is a Mass Air Flow Sensor fault. It's the Sensor next to the air cleaner. I've never ever had a single time where cleaning it worked. Replace it. It's a fast and simple repair.

Suspension lift. I did not do any body lift.

@@robbo6460 thank you

Look under the vehicle and up at the bottom of the radiator. If you have 2 smaller lines coming off the bottom and heading back towards the bell housing then you do. If not then you don't.

@@robbo6460 gotcha! Very easy. Changed the thermostat and day later saw that dreaded milky substance in the coolant but I think it's actually stop leak and not oil. I never added stop leak but the radiator is OLD and I now see a trans light when starting it but then it goes off. Love the Rodeo!

Sounds about right lol

Down the side of the windshield molding and under the cowl into the engine bay.

I agree. I haven't made a video in a while and I'm due. I have a few projects on Shrek but no time.

If there is no dip stick then it's the same procedure.

Thanks for the compliments. There should be no need to comress the spring if you lift by the pumpkin and have the shock out. I used mine cause I have them. Harbor Freight sells them cheap if you find you can't force them in. Good luck

@@robbo6460 Update: i used a bottle jack between the axle and frame to push the axle down about one inch. That is what my Trooper needed to slip the new spring in with no sweat. I gradually let the pressure out of thw little bottle jack as I checked the top of thw spring to make sure it stayed in position, then started looking at the OME 60074 shock. It was a bitch pounding thw top bushing into the shock, but I heated thw bushing in boiling water to soften it, then pounded the bitch in. Next, I looked at the fit with the top bolt, and it had a lot of slop! WTF, over? I am in contact with ARB about why they didn't send me a sleeve to fit between the 19-20mm ID of the rubber bushing and the 14mm diameter of the non-threaded part of the bolt. If I had a machine shop I would just make a f-ing sleeve and move on. But I don't. (I have been a machinist in my many lives) So, I am stopped for now, while the clouds spit rain on me from time to time, and I put my "driveway mechanic" tools away for now, until I figure out a sleeve for the bushing and bolt.

@@logmeindangit I'm sorry you having issues. I didn't have the same issue. My bushings fit the bolts. Boy that really sucks.

@@robbo6460 I'm on Facebook's Trooper Mafia site, and no-one there ever mentioned having bushing slop with the bolt on 2nd gen updates.

@@logmeindangit I'm on the mafia group too. Best group period. Idk if you got the wrong bushings. I suppose you can make a sleeve or see if they have other bushings available?