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Nice, would that work for GBody 7.5 twenty eight spline axle axle With disc brakes upgrade off a 2000 Blazer setup

Great video Mike.

Did you have to call to order those c-clip eliminators? I see their website doesn't work.

Why not just make 2 new pucks instead of machining down the ones that came in the kit? That way you would have some new ones for the current rear end housing you are working on, and the ones that came with the kit could have been saved just in case you needed them in the future.

Man, I’m glad ole Sheepdawg did that kit! That one was out of my comfort zone for sure! Looks awesome as always.

i love the got torque stuff

Brother you’re literally doing everything im doing to my truck lol perfect timing for your videos! Keep it up you’re motivating me big time!

Looks good....here's a pro tip. I got a pair of welders pipe stands, they have rollers on them for pipe work. Good Job!

My friend gave me a 200r4 transmission but I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 4.8 with 4l60e does it do any good to swap it ?

Im new to your channel but I love what you are doing teaching us common folks tips tricks and just ways to do stuff I'm from Gaffney SC Where are you located if u don't mind me asking

Narrowing the rear end, that help with tracking straight?

Where did you get the mounting plate for frame& spring slider.

If I end up doing this ill be getting the face of the housing level and then using an angle finder on each end flange to double check they make it back into alignment or even end up better than they were from the factory.

What a great channel. I've got a 2019 RCSB f150 4x4 that im working on doing everything you're doing to this truck. Great info to get me motivated!

When we were welding on this axle, I wasn’t even thinking about the center section putting pressure on the axle tubes causing it to bow. Now that I’ve seen firsthand just how much heat can change things, I’ll definitely keep stuff like that in mind in the future. Always learning!

Great vid 🏆🏆🏆

That sucker is good to go. Let’s stand it on the bumper 😂

Lots of good info. That thing ain't goin nowhere.

great job man! looks like it turned out really good, i look forward to the next one

Nice!!

that's a really nice alignment tool. the fabricator series shows a really practical approach, he uses two pieces of 3" c channel stock to keep the outside diameter plane straight. I would recommend using both, the alignment tool and c channel stock.

Hi, I have a question, please help me. I have a 98 Cherokee with a Spartan in the back, the clearance is 0.133, I think it's within specifications. I used Valvoline Synpower synthetic 75w140 oil. Now, what I don't know is that it's normal that when turning, for example in a parking lot or any other turn, it makes a lot of noise and sometimes when I start straight, is this normal or what do I need to do? Please, thank you.

great job guy!!! thats was awesome to see

Really neat to see the axle moving while being heated and cooled!

That tube moving while it cools down is wild!

Excellent.

How much are you narrowing it?

The next farm truck! There's not much info running a scavenging system with O2 sensors. I didn't want to mess up my purty new ceramic headers, so I opted to weld the bungs on the collector extensions. The AFR kit speciified locating the bung 24" from the transision of the primary tubes. I didnt want any contamination from the scavenging system to mess up the O2 sensor, so i placed it six inches back. What's the worst that could happen? Better to make a mistake on a $30 collector extension than a $1100.00 set of headers😂. Thanks for sharing 👍

What ride height are you aiming for? I’m wanting to this same set up while retaining a 6” drop in the rear

i had ro rewatch it, did you end up with 4-2.89 pucks

isnt that 2.89 for the inside carrier clamps?

Ole Sheepdawg makes a pretty good machinist when he has to!

Not OSHA APPROVED lol I heard that

Great video man! Quick question,i have a 7.5 10 bolt with a open carrier, stock 3:42, if I buy a original GM posi unit and use the original ring gear, do you think I could get away with just using the same shims on both sides with the original ring and pinion if i leave the pinion installed? I basically just want to put a GM Pozzi unit and leave the original 342 gears. Some people say it shouldn't be a problem and some people say I would probably have to play with shims, could I get away with just checking the wear pattern and backlash with the same shim packs on each side? The original rear end has low mileage and in great condition as of right now. I know it's a turd being a 7.5 but it will not be raced at a track, strictly street use. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

You have a link on that fuel cell?

How much was the converter?

I was going to use steel, but I gotitnow, thanks

Having a decent diff on hand is the only reason to even consider starting with keeping the 10 bolt. If you are doing it yourself it might make financial sense now, but if your paying someone to do the work I am not sure it makes any sense to me. If its a 5000lb brick that doesn't tow or do work and only is going to get launched hard its difficult to win me over on keeping the 10 bolt. Especially when you start looking into adding C-clip eliminators, all new bearings and seals, new axles, new gears, and then the cost of all the work to clean up the housing and weld on all the new brackets and its still a 10 bolt and most aftermarket C-clip eliminators are not rated for street use and will probably leak. I ordered what Moser called a 9" Muscle Pack already setup for Silverado with an aluminum case Wavetrac and 35 spline axles and I got Willwood dynalite breaks that will clear a 15" wheel with slicks, the right length 1/2 screw in studs in 6x5.5 to look factoryish but pass tech a giant fill plug and added a bottom drain plug for quicker service, all for what is now like 6k shipped and I had mine in a week. I had it shipped unpainted with no shock brakets so I could weld my relocation brackets on clean, and other than some spray and reworking the break lines it was straight bolt in. I am not sure if the driveshaft would bolt up with conversion U-joints as I make other drive-train changes and with the RPM and MPH I was targeting I had to upgrade to an aluminum PST shaft but that gave me the ability to do 1350 U-joints. Before that I had rebuilt the 10 bolt but by the time you do all the work if you just do gears and limited slip and bearings and seals and hardened axles you are in it 2 grand just for that, plus you still can't run slicks and have to run 17s to clear the brakes. I got several years and several hundred passes my 10 bolt before I exploded on me on a 1-2 shift at 5700rpm and 15lbs of boost on a well prepped track. If you are going to use it less than that then it could make sense to keep it 10 bolt especially if it had a good diff and if the gears were still good and the right ones.

Very helpful bud. Good job.

Good video thx

That crush sleeve eliminator is like fifty bucks at Summit now

When checking pinon bearing preload always do it with out the seal installed weather it’s a crush sleeve setup or eliminator one. A pinion seal typically adds .008-.010 of rotational drag.

Do u know where that fuel cell came from? Would really like to get one myself

Where did you get the spring slider plate? Great video!

How do i rent the right pullers and seaters for chevy short box 91 4x4

You can cut it faster with a hacksaw

Folks who are impressed by this video don't know the difference between a metric Crescent wrench and a standard Cresent wrench.....

I am looking forward to re-scaling this truck now that the tank has been relocated behind the axle as well as having some metal moved around. A little over half a tank will put around 100 pounds back there. Should help with getting some weight distribution to the rear and make this setup a little less nose heavy.

Beats the heck out of the old sandbags in the bed trick. No need to add weight when you can just move the fuel you have to carry anyway!

Kong 2650!!!