Відео

Great video man! Quick question,i have a 7.5 10 bolt with a open carrier, stock 3:42, if I buy a original GM posi unit and use the original ring gear, do you think I could get away with just using the same shims on both sides with the original ring and pinion if i leave the pinion installed? I basically just want to put a GM Pozzi unit and leave the original 342 gears. Some people say it shouldn't be a problem and some people say I would probably have to play with shims, could I get away with just checking the wear pattern and backlash with the same shim packs on each side? The original rear end has low mileage and in great condition as of right now. I know it's a turd being a 7.5 but it will not be raced at a track, strictly street use. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

You have a link on that fuel cell?

How much was the converter?

I was going to use steel, but I gotitnow, thanks

Having a decent diff on hand is the only reason to even consider starting with keeping the 10 bolt. If you are doing it yourself it might make financial sense now, but if your paying someone to do the work I am not sure it makes any sense to me. If its a 5000lb brick that doesn't tow or do work and only is going to get launched hard its difficult to win me over on keeping the 10 bolt. Especially when you start looking into adding C-clip eliminators, all new bearings and seals, new axles, new gears, and then the cost of all the work to clean up the housing and weld on all the new brackets and its still a 10 bolt and most aftermarket C-clip eliminators are not rated for street use and will probably leak. I ordered what Moser called a 9" Muscle Pack already setup for Silverado with an aluminum case Wavetrac and 35 spline axles and I got Willwood dynalite breaks that will clear a 15" wheel with slicks, the right length 1/2 screw in studs in 6x5.5 to look factoryish but pass tech a giant fill plug and added a bottom drain plug for quicker service, all for what is now like 6k shipped and I had mine in a week. I had it shipped unpainted with no shock brakets so I could weld my relocation brackets on clean, and other than some spray and reworking the break lines it was straight bolt in. I am not sure if the driveshaft would bolt up with conversion U-joints as I make other drive-train changes and with the RPM and MPH I was targeting I had to upgrade to an aluminum PST shaft but that gave me the ability to do 1350 U-joints. Before that I had rebuilt the 10 bolt but by the time you do all the work if you just do gears and limited slip and bearings and seals and hardened axles you are in it 2 grand just for that, plus you still can't run slicks and have to run 17s to clear the brakes. I got several years and several hundred passes my 10 bolt before I exploded on me on a 1-2 shift at 5700rpm and 15lbs of boost on a well prepped track. If you are going to use it less than that then it could make sense to keep it 10 bolt especially if it had a good diff and if the gears were still good and the right ones.

Very helpful bud. Good job.

Good video thx

That crush sleeve eliminator is like fifty bucks at Summit now

When checking pinon bearing preload always do it with out the seal installed weather it’s a crush sleeve setup or eliminator one. A pinion seal typically adds .008-.010 of rotational drag.

Do u know where that fuel cell came from? Would really like to get one myself

Where did you get the spring slider plate? Great video!

How do i rent the right pullers and seaters for chevy short box 91 4x4

You can cut it faster with a hacksaw

Folks who are impressed by this video don't know the difference between a metric Crescent wrench and a standard Cresent wrench.....

I am looking forward to re-scaling this truck now that the tank has been relocated behind the axle as well as having some metal moved around. A little over half a tank will put around 100 pounds back there. Should help with getting some weight distribution to the rear and make this setup a little less nose heavy.

Beats the heck out of the old sandbags in the bed trick. No need to add weight when you can just move the fuel you have to carry anyway!

Kong 2650!!!

I agree with staying with the 10-bolt for this combo. A Ford 9” is no doubt a MUCH better rearend. But for a weekend cruiser that will occasionally see the dragstrip, an upgraded “truck” 10-bolt will work just fine for this rig. Looking forward to seeing more progress on this build.

Looking good! We will see what that old 10 bolt can take!

Looking good! Good explanation of why using this axle makes sense.

Nice job, i work at the machine shop and we build many engines i wish customers would disassemble and clean their engines, my company won't allow us to put on any accessories sometimes they are even lost i want all my parts to go back on the build Again you show the correct way 😀 😊

Seems like a big improvement over the bolt in!

That frame ain’t going nowhere with that weld in kit!

Boss man getting it done. Love all the videos so far. Keep up the great work man.

Very nice. Good explanation of how the stuff works and why you would or wouldn't want this particular setup.

Ole Sheepdawg is going to have that truck jumping beer cans on a dirt road!

Still oil beating then.

Amazing!

Ole Blue Truck under the knife

Been a while bud. How's the big block coming.

Great video bud! Looking forward to seeing this beautiful single cab make some passes this fall!

I’m here for it!

Nice truck!! What's the rims size and back spacing?

I'm doing a Ls3/6L80E swap in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It's a project with my grandkids. That is a nice truck!!!

I thought I was driving ok. 😢

Clean truck and I can’t wait to see it out and about more!!!

I was close to trading my 5.3 swapped 82 Gmc shortbed Squarebody to a Red 01 RCSB silverado last week. But the guy messaged the night before I was to leave amd said ih i forgot to tell you the wheel bearings are bad im gonna trailer it to you. 😂 nah fam im good ill keep mine. Still looking for a decent 99to02 rcsb silverado or Sierra to trade for.

Let’s goooooooooo!!!!!!!!

Just found your channel... Great story! Thank you for the tips and congrats on the new life / wife!

Dude! You're Awesome! Thank You Very Much for ALL the info. Totally Helpful!!

I have the same scales, but went I went the optional ramps. It was a good call. To those that may not know, to scale a car properly the tire pressure has to be "as run" and even side to side. Ideally, the dampers should be removed. With coil overs we back the settings off to full soft. Remember to note the settings first! The dampers will "hang" like mentioned in this video and throw off the corner weights.

7:51 that carrier shim tip is exactly what I hoped this video would have that no other video I’ve seen has mentioned. Needed that, thanks.

I bought one 3qt unit with manual valve plus a solenoid on 12Vdc hooked the the run side of ignition. I don’t drive every day or every week, but I know how much it cost in my time to supply a machine shop with damaged rotating parts if the engine doesn’t last about 4-9 more years. Why not last 20 years! Thank you kindly for the information you provided. Peachy great! ASE Master Tech 78. Retired!

I call bull shiat.. try this with 4an line... fraying is IMPOSSIBLE to prevent./navigate around. Have found ONLY soultion is to force the SS sleeve down ... put fitting on as shown her but JUST on the inner core.. Once your fitting installed.. Tape the SSteel splay of material right at bottom edge of the fitting... then cut off the SS strands VERY CARFULLY. so not to damage the inner core and so not to totalyl FUBAR's the nice fitting.. .. but you will and you will make it look like shit.. then from other end before installing that side..... put a 3/4 shrink rap on it slide it up to your fitting and cover your uggly shiat hack job at base of fitting. On 4an at least, this is a freaking waste of money unless you get it with fittings installed already. Hoping like hell my 6an SSteel line assembly is going to go better. Got like 8 hoses (16 ends) to make compered with just two end on my the 4an. One 4an end took 1.5hours till figured out the work around. Its a return line; so at least it wont suck in air (diesel engine application). did about 16 ends with 10an fittings on nylon strand braid without issue. (remote oil filter/cooler/thermostat) Or I just suck at SSteel braided.. could be that too lol

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Questions: How do you determine initial pinion bearing preload with spacer..do I measure what the original crush sleeve thickness was, then add shim's to the new spacer, torque to 130 ft/lb and then check for recommended rotational torque? What is the rotational torque value with spacer( not crush sleeve) for GM 10 bolt 8.625? I'm not clear on procedure Thanks much!

Overall good job

How’s Amy? I see she hasn’t posted any youvtube videos in a long time.

What was your struggles on the stock computer