Відео

@@oby-1607 thank you! And never say never... it took me about 4 years and lots of trial and error to feel confident in my work enough to document my process and put it all in this video

@superiorautodetailing i would start with a simple kit and add to it. Alot of those big kits that have like 8 wheels and 5 different compounds are just overkill and you end up paying for a lot of stuff you wont actually use. 2-3 buffs 2-3 compounds (cutting, coloring, finishing), a buff rake and a set of flanges is all you need in the beginning

@ that's kind of what I figured, is it necessary to buy the nice aluminum flanges or are the cheap ones that come in the kits ok to get started with?

@superiorautodetailing adding to my last comment, I don't have any input as far is which company (zephyr or renegade) offers a better starter kit or which of their products perform better. Its worth noting that their compounds behave completely differently (in my personal experience) than the products i am using in this video and may not be directly transferrable. With that said, It's been 5 years since I used zephyr last and the buffs and compounds could have changed at anytime within that window (same with renegade). generally speaking, most guys start with one of those companies and as they progress they end up switching to a company like spectrum, hilzinger or menzerna when they really want to fine tune their results (much like detailers will get their start with auto parts store compounds pads and polishes and then ultimately getting picky and moving over to brands like sonax, lake country, rupes, etc)

@superiorautodetailing two things I will share with you on the flanges; 1 is if you plan on running at any point above 3500 rpm (not beginner recommended as I've stated in the video) you need aluminum. Otherwise you're fine on plastic/composite flanges. 2, none of the center ring diameters are consistent from brand to brand. In other words if you buy let's say renegades aluminum centering flanges, your zephyr buffs may not fit or vice versa. So if you plan on doing any experimenting I'd make sure you're really happy with one brand of buffs before you start buying aluminum flanges

@@brackishindustries thank you so much for the advice, GREATLY appreciated! I feel like sticking with one company is best at least at first. That's kind of what I did with auto detailing just because it can be overwhelming trying to find the best products across hundreds of companies. I like Menzerna's compounds for paint too. They make one of my favorite heavy cutting compounds for buffing paint. I'm not sure if they make a starter kit but I'd have no problem using them. You seem to like their stuff and you obviously know what you're doing! Anyway, I won't pester you anymore, thanks so much for taking the time to give me some advice!

@abrahamperez6727 yes. If you can get your hands on some aircraft ultra stripper I would try to shrip them chemically first especially inside the windows where the sandpaper is not going to touch but yes everything else is the same

@tristanrumsey8831 yes. You can't keep a rotary flat. You can try different Dremel bits and things in the Curves and the recessed areas

@ thank you very much 👌🏻👌🏻

@@tristanrumsey8831 thank you!

@geraldfiorello6231 thanks! To do that same job on the same wheel front and back I'm about 2.5 hours front and back if I'm rocking. The wheel stand is just a couple nuts, bolts and coupling nuts, a duramax front wheel bearing and an engine stand from harbor freight. Drilled 2 holes. I'll consider a video on how I made it though since you bring it up. Thanks for the idea!

@anandbharrat9412 thanks and that's awesome! I'm about 3500 miles away. i wish they were in my hometown 😆

@detailit hey thanks for the kind words and that's a great start! No question about it, prep is unbelievably key on the metal side of detailing

@@paulr-ct1dl you're welcome! I I'm sure you're gonna get killer results on all 3 sets 😎

@ericdoney1424 you're welcome, I'm assuming the spoke windows are where the raw aluminum is?... take your time and use cutting compound like the 439t from menzerna that I use in this video on your dremel. When you sand you want to move quickly back and forth with your sanding bits so it doesn't leave ripples in the spoke windows. You can move slower with the cutting g compound just working it back and forth until it cuts out the imperfections

@DR-um2bv chrome eventually flakes and pits on wheels especially because of the nature of wheels being close to the ground moving fast and road debris (sand gravel rocks salt etc.) Are unavoidable. People who bought these wheels in the late 90's - mid 2000's in chrome are WISHING they bought them in polished aluminum today because they are worth 400% more money on average if they're aluminum because they can be restored easily compared to the same wheel chrome plated

@@WillUnderwood-l1o thank you! I'm glad you liked it

@JeffreyLind-o7c thanks for the kind words and you're welcome! Good luck with your wheels 🤙

Im Glad that's working for you but to be frank with you I have tried 6" paper on a 5" DA and I don't do it specifically because it ripples the outer edge that overlaps the sander and acts as a lower sandpaper grit which will create more work than necessary. Again if that's working for you don't change it but I've never had any success doing that

@@brackishindustriesHaven’t tried yet, I will keep your suggestion in mind. Ordered also the foam hock n loop pad in 6’ on a 5’, lets see.

@noelmanastyrski5825 in the case of these valve covers they will pretty much stay like that because they go on a race car that only comes out in good weather. In the event that they were on a car that was driven in rain or even maybe had coolant or something splatter and each them, a good liquid polish and a clean microfiber will keep them looking good

@stevenjamieson5461 you're welcome! The code doesn't work anymore, spectrum lowered the cost so everyone pays the same price

@brackishindustries lol the only code us Canadians know is cold, hard cash. Ive been reluctant to place an order with Chris because I wasn't familiar with the combos. Ty for your video. Ive been struggling for a few years to get that perfect result. And sand paper is the first problem and rouge is the second problem. If i may ask 1 question. Do you acid before you sand or after. Ty again Im your new fan.

@stevenjamieson5461 thank you! To answer your question it technically doesn't matter, BUT... I prefer before sanding because it releases embedded brake dust and contaminants that will clog sand paper requiring more sand paper to be used than necessary

@@msantoni32 thanks man I'm glad you enjoyed it!

@@MoparFuel thank you! your welcome

@ryanjackson587 hey Ryan thanks for trying, since this video was produced Spectrum remove their discount programs whether it be wholesale or promotional like in this video and made their best possible price available to everyone

@@paulborg9609 you are welcome!

@@TheGoochmeister are you on instagram?

@@brackishindustries yes @feng.shui911

​@@brackishindustries I also second this. But in Virginia. I have a lot more questions for the overall polishing stuff and materials.

@@cushingjr6601 messag me in Instagram my handle is @deanryan08

Weld racing 16.5x14 stonecrushers

You're welcome!!

Thank you! Although I personally have not tried an electric motors, I can say I have a few friends who build wheel stands with a belt drive for an electric motor and all of them have unhooked the motor and run the wheel free spinning just as I do in this video. It is a great idea but the challenge is that I'm constantly stopping and starting the wheel and changing the wheels turning pace as I'm working. With the Rope/foot brake, I don't need to stop working and change a dial to get the wheel to speed up or slow down whereas with an electric motor and a variable speed switch I'd be stopping constantly to modify speed

Spectrumalberta.ca you can find all of the mini buffs and the flanges to mount them on a polisher

@brackishindustries Solid find my man! I was looking everywhere for these before posting my last comment. Sucks that shipping is outrageous to the U.S., but for the convenience of their size, I may just buy them anyways, perhaps in bulk.

Yes it is. Thanks!

They really are 🤦

Thank you for the kind words and you're welcome! I'm glad you liked it 👍

The bauer you saw me referring to is a model #1814E-B (i removed the plastic handle from the head) and you go on Amazon and copy and paste: TORQ BUFLC201 R5 Dual-Action Backing Plate with Hyper Flex Technology, Red (5 Inch you will find the exact backing plate I'm using. Keep in mind that is NOT a rotary machine is is a dual action paint polisher. Rotary machines use a 5/8 thread and paint polishers use a 5/16 as you mentioned. These machines work great with a wide barreled wheel like the 14 wide weld in this video. The problem is because they throw and they spin at the same time, they bump edges alot and don't do well with skinny barrels or anywhere where there's a transition or lip. Without seeing your wheel I can't advise. DM me pictures on Instagram @deanryan0899 if you'd like me to take a look and advise accordingly on how to address your wheels

@@brackishindustries Thank you so much for getting back to me so quick... I'm trying to send you pics on instagram but couldn't find your account or maybe I'm doing something wrong... LOL.... If you send me your email maybe that would be easier.... Thanks!

Nevermind... I found you as deanryan08.... I'll send you pics now for your guidance.

Thank you! And you're welcome. More to come as I have time to do so 🤙

Hey thank you, so recently we made the decision to kill the discount code and give everyone the max available discount instead of a referral based program where someone who didn't know had to pay more. Right now everything on the website is at the best available price

Thanks! Had to get my point acrossed somehow 😆

Thank you!

I haven't worked with work wheels specifically but I have done plenty of CCW in the past which appear to have similar lips. Sanding these lips can be difficult because there's not much lip/barrel to fit a sander in and make it look right. If I were you I would try to cut he heck out of the lip and avoid sanding at all costs (because if you make defects by accident there's really no fixing them without completely taking the wheel apart and screwing the outer barrel to a board and polishing them that way. Also, if your renters are painted, powdercoated, or anything other than raw aluminum, I would create a tape buffer at the outer portion of the spoke where it meets the barrel if you're machine polishing them like I did in this video. My preferred method is to put painters tape over the spoke where the buff might hit it, then duct tape over the painters tape, then painters tape over the duct tape electives making a painters, duct, painters tape sandwich. This is the best way to give yourself Insurance of not accidentally hitting the coating and removing it, but also taking the tape back off without lifting g the coating. Hope that helps

Welds are actually much softer than forces especially any forces made after wheel pros acquired them. I do them the exact same way I do these welds but I don't take the tire off. Stay tuned hoping to have a force video out this summer

Good! There's more than one product out there. Use what works best for you

Thanks! The part of the video around the time I start cutting the rivets around the outer lip is exactly how I would do the rivets on eneki blades, depending on the severity I might try and attack the the same way you see me cutting the lug pad (the wheel on its back on the ground and firmly holding the buffer with your hands and the wheel with your feet using the "grip and rip" method once all the way around the wheel moving your body around the wheel clockwise positioning the buffer at 9oclock going all the way around, then repeat going counter clockwise with the buffer at 3oclock again going all the way around so that both sides of your rivets have been polished

Thanks man!!! @@brackishindustries

@@irz587 any time 👍

Did you mean 15x14? or 15x4? Are you having problems sanding the face or the barrel?

@@brackishindustries15x4. Having problems sanding it because I don’t have room enough to do it correctly. Thanks for responding back. That means a lot sanding the whole wheel 🛞

@@brackishindustriesyes I keep doubling my work because of the small area too sand. I can’t get my DA to sand the wheel 🛞 like you’re describing. The 15x4 weld Wheel 🛞 is very hard to do. Thanks

@@brackishindustriesdo you have any suggestions?

@@brackishindustriesI will try. Thanks

Thanks!

Anytime!