Thank you for this video. This was incredible! you explained everything so well. I can't wait to try this on my wheels. One of the best "how to" videos I have ever seen!
Absolutely Brilliant. I'm a stickler for polishing techniques and methods. I will say your technique and method is a first for me. I now want to go and polish my 95 Bronco wheels. I especially like the engine stand mod. It's really cool. Maybe you have a friend who's good with electric motors and attach it to your rig. I'm blown away.
Thank you! Although I personally have not tried an electric motors, I can say I have a few friends who build wheel stands with a belt drive for an electric motor and all of them have unhooked the motor and run the wheel free spinning just as I do in this video. It is a great idea but the challenge is that I'm constantly stopping and starting the wheel and changing the wheels turning pace as I'm working. With the Rope/foot brake, I don't need to stop working and change a dial to get the wheel to speed up or slow down whereas with an electric motor and a variable speed switch I'd be stopping constantly to modify speed
I've never seen such a complete video about polishing! incredible result! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I'm from Brazil and here the products are different with different machines and accessories. I'm going to do the entire video step by step and see what result I can achieve! thank you bro
I have two questions ? Can you do a video on how you build your wheel stand, and how long did take to do that one wheel with out stopping to explain everything to us I’m just curious. Buy the way the video was awesome very informative and the right way of how to do the job!!! Thanks for doing it.
@geraldfiorello6231 thanks! To do that same job on the same wheel front and back I'm about 2.5 hours front and back if I'm rocking. The wheel stand is just a couple nuts, bolts and coupling nuts, a duramax front wheel bearing and an engine stand from harbor freight. Drilled 2 holes. I'll consider a video on how I made it though since you bring it up. Thanks for the idea!
Really appreciate you breaking down the steps. I have a set of 2002 Chevy HD wheels, a set of Alcoas from my daily, and another set of Raceline Rockcrushers (similar to those Welds you polished) that are waiting on me! Thank you for the video!
Awesome, best one I have found 👍🏽was looking for a full overview. What I find also useful to use a 6’ paper on the 5’ orbital sander, to work into edges. I will try to lift the front wheel and rotate it while sanding 😀 Good idea the mask, the flying alumnium is visible!
Im Glad that's working for you but to be frank with you I have tried 6" paper on a 5" DA and I don't do it specifically because it ripples the outer edge that overlaps the sander and acts as a lower sandpaper grit which will create more work than necessary. Again if that's working for you don't change it but I've never had any success doing that
I just spent around 6 hours hand sanding and then polishing one of four old school 90s Camry wheels. 120, 220, 400, 600, 1000, 2000, 3000, and the applied two rounds of Mothers Aluminum Mag with my drill attachment. The wheel came out great, but man, time really is money. I need to get a good rotary tool to get the job done faster. But I am glad I learned how to do it. Any advice on those grit levels would be great. They were pretty scratched up.
Hey! Such an informative video. I dabble but am not an "Aluminum guy" yet! I just bought the red Rouge, tripoli, and the EZ MONEY wheel. We shall see what happens with that.... Sanding is key from what I hear, which makes sense, PREP! Great video, man!
You are an amazing teacher. The end result was better than new. Your work is worth every penny and then some. I will never get to this skill level and I have to ask how long did it take you to get this good and knowledgeable?
@@oby-1607 thank you! And never say never... it took me about 4 years and lots of trial and error to feel confident in my work enough to document my process and put it all in this video
@brackishindustries lol the only code us Canadians know is cold, hard cash. Ive been reluctant to place an order with Chris because I wasn't familiar with the combos. Ty for your video. Ive been struggling for a few years to get that perfect result. And sand paper is the first problem and rouge is the second problem. If i may ask 1 question. Do you acid before you sand or after. Ty again Im your new fan.
@stevenjamieson5461 thank you! To answer your question it technically doesn't matter, BUT... I prefer before sanding because it releases embedded brake dust and contaminants that will clog sand paper requiring more sand paper to be used than necessary
Thank you for the information. I’m polishing motorcycle wheel. I’ve sand to a 1000g . I have a straight air grinder and a Dremel. I have trouble with tech scratches,and the color. I’m working around a black finish . Trying not to damage it. Thank you for any advice you could offer.
@ericdoney1424 you're welcome, I'm assuming the spoke windows are where the raw aluminum is?... take your time and use cutting compound like the 439t from menzerna that I use in this video on your dremel. When you sand you want to move quickly back and forth with your sanding bits so it doesn't leave ripples in the spoke windows. You can move slower with the cutting g compound just working it back and forth until it cuts out the imperfections
@abrahamperez6727 yes. If you can get your hands on some aircraft ultra stripper I would try to shrip them chemically first especially inside the windows where the sandpaper is not going to touch but yes everything else is the same
This is a great video! As an auto detailer I get slow in the winter. I'm very familiar with buffing and polishing paint, and there seems to be a lot of the same principles. I've set a goal to learn everything I can about metal polishing this winter. Not Meguiers buffer wheel or cone and a drill either. Actually correcting and restoring! This, so far, is great explanation of a lot of things so far! I haven't watched it all yet because it's to chaotic in my house right now and I want to really focus ! I'm looking at buying either a renegade or Zephyr kit. I'm not sure which to get, and I'm curious if I should get the kit with more product or just a basic? My detailing supplier guy has a Zephyr kit so I was leaning toward that but wanted to ask someone neutral about the two kits before buying one
@superiorautodetailing i would start with a simple kit and add to it. Alot of those big kits that have like 8 wheels and 5 different compounds are just overkill and you end up paying for a lot of stuff you wont actually use. 2-3 buffs 2-3 compounds (cutting, coloring, finishing), a buff rake and a set of flanges is all you need in the beginning
@superiorautodetailing adding to my last comment, I don't have any input as far is which company (zephyr or renegade) offers a better starter kit or which of their products perform better. Its worth noting that their compounds behave completely differently (in my personal experience) than the products i am using in this video and may not be directly transferrable. With that said, It's been 5 years since I used zephyr last and the buffs and compounds could have changed at anytime within that window (same with renegade). generally speaking, most guys start with one of those companies and as they progress they end up switching to a company like spectrum, hilzinger or menzerna when they really want to fine tune their results (much like detailers will get their start with auto parts store compounds pads and polishes and then ultimately getting picky and moving over to brands like sonax, lake country, rupes, etc)
@superiorautodetailing two things I will share with you on the flanges; 1 is if you plan on running at any point above 3500 rpm (not beginner recommended as I've stated in the video) you need aluminum. Otherwise you're fine on plastic/composite flanges. 2, none of the center ring diameters are consistent from brand to brand. In other words if you buy let's say renegades aluminum centering flanges, your zephyr buffs may not fit or vice versa. So if you plan on doing any experimenting I'd make sure you're really happy with one brand of buffs before you start buying aluminum flanges
@@brackishindustries thank you so much for the advice, GREATLY appreciated! I feel like sticking with one company is best at least at first. That's kind of what I did with auto detailing just because it can be overwhelming trying to find the best products across hundreds of companies. I like Menzerna's compounds for paint too. They make one of my favorite heavy cutting compounds for buffing paint. I'm not sure if they make a starter kit but I'd have no problem using them. You seem to like their stuff and you obviously know what you're doing! Anyway, I won't pester you anymore, thanks so much for taking the time to give me some advice!
Wow! What a Great Video! I'm getting ready to polish my original 79 Vette Aluminum slotted rims and they have a lot of tooling / maching marks. I've tried the abrasive balls but it doesn't do the trick. I saw here that you show the smaller Bauer Grinder with the flexible backing plate and I'm thinking this may be the way to get rid of those marks as i'm going around the wheel and between the slots The only thing is that the Bauer I found only comes in 5/16-24 thread and feel that the arbor being 5/16 may not be able to handle all the sanding I need to do meaning it might break off or something. I thought these grinders all came with a 5/8 thread. I saw the flex plates were available on Amazon. Do you recommend to a newbie like me the That small Bauer with the Flex Plate? Can you provide the Model Number? Thanks!
The bauer you saw me referring to is a model #1814E-B (i removed the plastic handle from the head) and you go on Amazon and copy and paste: TORQ BUFLC201 R5 Dual-Action Backing Plate with Hyper Flex Technology, Red (5 Inch you will find the exact backing plate I'm using. Keep in mind that is NOT a rotary machine is is a dual action paint polisher. Rotary machines use a 5/8 thread and paint polishers use a 5/16 as you mentioned. These machines work great with a wide barreled wheel like the 14 wide weld in this video. The problem is because they throw and they spin at the same time, they bump edges alot and don't do well with skinny barrels or anywhere where there's a transition or lip. Without seeing your wheel I can't advise. DM me pictures on Instagram @deanryan0899 if you'd like me to take a look and advise accordingly on how to address your wheels
@@brackishindustries Thank you so much for getting back to me so quick... I'm trying to send you pics on instagram but couldn't find your account or maybe I'm doing something wrong... LOL.... If you send me your email maybe that would be easier.... Thanks!
Hey, awsome results and great video!!! What the best way to tackle oxidized/surface rusted rivet heads? I have a set of Enkei Cookie Cutter Saw Blade American Racing wheels that I want to try polishing.
Thanks! The part of the video around the time I start cutting the rivets around the outer lip is exactly how I would do the rivets on eneki blades, depending on the severity I might try and attack the the same way you see me cutting the lug pad (the wheel on its back on the ground and firmly holding the buffer with your hands and the wheel with your feet using the "grip and rip" method once all the way around the wheel moving your body around the wheel clockwise positioning the buffer at 9oclock going all the way around, then repeat going counter clockwise with the buffer at 3oclock again going all the way around so that both sides of your rivets have been polished
Very impressive. I polish truck wheels and tanks on the weekends, but I have yet to master that finish. My finish looks fantastic but in my eyes you have a true show finish there. I live below you in St.marys county, charlotte hall. I have a couple questions, (airway wheel selection) is there any way I may be able to reach out other than the comment section?
@@brackishindustries Hey no problem about the delay, I only do youtube. I appreciate you reaching back out just the same. Ill just call spectrum. Thanks again
Where did you purchase the mini buffs from? I've found a few, but none which have a full systems (hard, course, medium, soft, fine, etc.). I didn't see the link in this video.
@brackishindustries Solid find my man! I was looking everywhere for these before posting my last comment. Sucks that shipping is outrageous to the U.S., but for the convenience of their size, I may just buy them anyways, perhaps in bulk.
Thank you! No I don't; The menzerna compounds have natural sealants in them last several months if not more than a year if well maintained. I've tried shark hide, clear powder coat, wax, ceramic coating, and a few other protectants that I'm probably forgetting to mention. All of which will add surface protection but at the cost of clarity of the wheel. Right now you can read the serial number in the reflection of a $100 bill clear as day, once one of these protective coatings is applied, That seem reflection gets much more blurry. Not saying some people might be okay with that but my preference is to have as much of that deep rich reflective clarity as I can get
Love the video man! I've seen some guys stop at 600 (im one of them) instead of going to 800. Have you noticed a better clarity or benefit to going to 800? Thanks!
Thank you! No not necessarily. I occasionally stop at 600 myself but I have found that cutting out the sanding especially for beginners is much nicer at 800 versus 600
Welds are actually much softer than forces especially any forces made after wheel pros acquired them. I do them the exact same way I do these welds but I don't take the tire off. Stay tuned hoping to have a force video out this summer
How do you feel about sanding lips of wheels ? (3pc Work wheels) I’ve heard you don’t wanna sand the lip too much . Is there any issues when it comes to sanding wheels too much and making the material/ lip to thin?
I haven't worked with work wheels specifically but I have done plenty of CCW in the past which appear to have similar lips. Sanding these lips can be difficult because there's not much lip/barrel to fit a sander in and make it look right. If I were you I would try to cut he heck out of the lip and avoid sanding at all costs (because if you make defects by accident there's really no fixing them without completely taking the wheel apart and screwing the outer barrel to a board and polishing them that way. Also, if your renters are painted, powdercoated, or anything other than raw aluminum, I would create a tape buffer at the outer portion of the spoke where it meets the barrel if you're machine polishing them like I did in this video. My preferred method is to put painters tape over the spoke where the buff might hit it, then duct tape over the painters tape, then painters tape over the duct tape electives making a painters, duct, painters tape sandwich. This is the best way to give yourself Insurance of not accidentally hitting the coating and removing it, but also taking the tape back off without lifting g the coating. Hope that helps
I have a Weld 15x4 racing wheel. I have a DA and I’m having problems with sanding because of the width of the wheel 🛞. Do you have any suggestions? DA/Orbital. I sure would appreciate it if you could help me. Thanks
@@brackishindustries15x4. Having problems sanding it because I don’t have room enough to do it correctly. Thanks for responding back. That means a lot sanding the whole wheel 🛞
@@brackishindustriesyes I keep doubling my work because of the small area too sand. I can’t get my DA to sand the wheel 🛞 like you’re describing. The 15x4 weld Wheel 🛞 is very hard to do. Thanks
@ryanjackson587 hey Ryan thanks for trying, since this video was produced Spectrum remove their discount programs whether it be wholesale or promotional like in this video and made their best possible price available to everyone
Too much work for how long it will last. Just buy chrome. Polish aluminum too much up keep. You will not have any time to sleep or eat from always washing and hand Polishing them wheels.
@DR-um2bv chrome eventually flakes and pits on wheels especially because of the nature of wheels being close to the ground moving fast and road debris (sand gravel rocks salt etc.) Are unavoidable. People who bought these wheels in the late 90's - mid 2000's in chrome are WISHING they bought them in polished aluminum today because they are worth 400% more money on average if they're aluminum because they can be restored easily compared to the same wheel chrome plated
Thank you for this video. This was incredible! you explained everything so well. I can't wait to try this on my wheels. One of the best "how to" videos I have ever seen!
@JeffreyLind-o7c thanks for the kind words and you're welcome! Good luck with your wheels 🤙
This has got to be the BEST how to video on UA-cam...EVER! Thank you!!!!!!!
You're welcome!!
Great job on explaining your thought process. Well edited also. Thanks for taking the time.
Thank you! And you're welcome. More to come as I have time to do so 🤙
By far best video I’ve seen, this gentleman needs more views for his efforts👍🏻👍🏻
@@tristanrumsey8831 thank you!
Absolutely Brilliant. I'm a stickler for polishing techniques and methods. I will say your technique and method is a first for me. I now want to go and polish my 95 Bronco wheels. I especially like the engine stand mod. It's really cool. Maybe you have a friend who's good with electric motors and attach it to your rig. I'm blown away.
Thank you! Although I personally have not tried an electric motors, I can say I have a few friends who build wheel stands with a belt drive for an electric motor and all of them have unhooked the motor and run the wheel free spinning just as I do in this video. It is a great idea but the challenge is that I'm constantly stopping and starting the wheel and changing the wheels turning pace as I'm working. With the Rope/foot brake, I don't need to stop working and change a dial to get the wheel to speed up or slow down whereas with an electric motor and a variable speed switch I'd be stopping constantly to modify speed
I've never seen such a complete video about polishing! incredible result! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I'm from Brazil and here the products are different with different machines and accessories. I'm going to do the entire video step by step and see what result I can achieve! thank you bro
Thank you for the kind words and you're welcome! I'm glad you liked it 👍
I have two questions ? Can you do a video on how you build your wheel stand, and how long did take to do that one wheel with out stopping to explain everything to us I’m just curious. Buy the way the video was awesome very informative and the right way of how to do the job!!! Thanks for doing it.
@geraldfiorello6231 thanks! To do that same job on the same wheel front and back I'm about 2.5 hours front and back if I'm rocking. The wheel stand is just a couple nuts, bolts and coupling nuts, a duramax front wheel bearing and an engine stand from harbor freight. Drilled 2 holes. I'll consider a video on how I made it though since you bring it up. Thanks for the idea!
great video! didn't even realize spectrum was in my home town.
@anandbharrat9412 thanks and that's awesome! I'm about 3500 miles away. i wish they were in my hometown 😆
Really appreciate you breaking down the steps. I have a set of 2002 Chevy HD wheels, a set of Alcoas from my daily, and another set of Raceline Rockcrushers (similar to those Welds you polished) that are waiting on me! Thank you for the video!
@@paulr-ct1dl you're welcome! I I'm sure you're gonna get killer results on all 3 sets 😎
That looks great mate.
Best video I have seen on polishing 🛞!
Thanks!
Beautiful work!! Great video
Awesome, best one I have found 👍🏽was looking for a full overview. What I find also useful to use a 6’ paper on the 5’ orbital sander, to work into edges. I will try to lift the front wheel and rotate it while sanding 😀
Good idea the mask, the flying alumnium is visible!
Im Glad that's working for you but to be frank with you I have tried 6" paper on a 5" DA and I don't do it specifically because it ripples the outer edge that overlaps the sander and acts as a lower sandpaper grit which will create more work than necessary. Again if that's working for you don't change it but I've never had any success doing that
@@brackishindustriesHaven’t tried yet, I will keep your suggestion in mind. Ordered also the foam hock n loop pad in 6’ on a 5’, lets see.
Amazing video very detailed, thank you for sharing your time and knowledge!!
@@WillUnderwood-l1o thank you! I'm glad you liked it
I just spent around 6 hours hand sanding and then polishing one of four old school 90s Camry wheels. 120, 220, 400, 600, 1000, 2000, 3000, and the applied two rounds of Mothers Aluminum Mag with my drill attachment. The wheel came out great, but man, time really is money. I need to get a good rotary tool to get the job done faster. But I am glad I learned how to do it. Any advice on those grit levels would be great. They were pretty scratched up.
Hey! Such an informative video. I dabble but am not an "Aluminum guy" yet! I just bought the red Rouge, tripoli, and the EZ MONEY wheel. We shall see what happens with that.... Sanding is key from what I hear, which makes sense, PREP! Great video, man!
@detailit hey thanks for the kind words and that's a great start! No question about it, prep is unbelievably key on the metal side of detailing
You are an amazing teacher. The end result was better than new. Your work is worth every penny and then some. I will never get to this skill level and I have to ask how long did it take you to get this good and knowledgeable?
@@oby-1607 thank you! And never say never... it took me about 4 years and lots of trial and error to feel confident in my work enough to document my process and put it all in this video
Incredible information thank you for the code.
@stevenjamieson5461 you're welcome! The code doesn't work anymore, spectrum lowered the cost so everyone pays the same price
@brackishindustries lol the only code us Canadians know is cold, hard cash. Ive been reluctant to place an order with Chris because I wasn't familiar with the combos. Ty for your video. Ive been struggling for a few years to get that perfect result. And sand paper is the first problem and rouge is the second problem. If i may ask 1 question. Do you acid before you sand or after. Ty again Im your new fan.
@stevenjamieson5461 thank you! To answer your question it technically doesn't matter, BUT... I prefer before sanding because it releases embedded brake dust and contaminants that will clog sand paper requiring more sand paper to be used than necessary
Thank you for the information. I’m polishing motorcycle wheel. I’ve sand to a 1000g . I have a straight air grinder and a Dremel. I have trouble with tech scratches,and the color. I’m working around a black finish . Trying not to damage it. Thank you for any advice you could offer.
@ericdoney1424 you're welcome, I'm assuming the spoke windows are where the raw aluminum is?... take your time and use cutting compound like the 439t from menzerna that I use in this video on your dremel. When you sand you want to move quickly back and forth with your sanding bits so it doesn't leave ripples in the spoke windows. You can move slower with the cutting g compound just working it back and forth until it cuts out the imperfections
Hey just ran into this video what do you recommend for wheels that have a brushed finish and clear coat same process?
@abrahamperez6727 yes. If you can get your hands on some aircraft ultra stripper I would try to shrip them chemically first especially inside the windows where the sandpaper is not going to touch but yes everything else is the same
This is a great video! As an auto detailer I get slow in the winter. I'm very familiar with buffing and polishing paint, and there seems to be a lot of the same principles. I've set a goal to learn everything I can about metal polishing this winter. Not Meguiers buffer wheel or cone and a drill either. Actually correcting and restoring! This, so far, is great explanation of a lot of things so far! I haven't watched it all yet because it's to chaotic in my house right now and I want to really focus ! I'm looking at buying either a renegade or Zephyr kit. I'm not sure which to get, and I'm curious if I should get the kit with more product or just a basic? My detailing supplier guy has a Zephyr kit so I was leaning toward that but wanted to ask someone neutral about the two kits before buying one
@superiorautodetailing i would start with a simple kit and add to it. Alot of those big kits that have like 8 wheels and 5 different compounds are just overkill and you end up paying for a lot of stuff you wont actually use. 2-3 buffs 2-3 compounds (cutting, coloring, finishing), a buff rake and a set of flanges is all you need in the beginning
@ that's kind of what I figured, is it necessary to buy the nice aluminum flanges or are the cheap ones that come in the kits ok to get started with?
@superiorautodetailing adding to my last comment, I don't have any input as far is which company (zephyr or renegade) offers a better starter kit or which of their products perform better. Its worth noting that their compounds behave completely differently (in my personal experience) than the products i am using in this video and may not be directly transferrable. With that said, It's been 5 years since I used zephyr last and the buffs and compounds could have changed at anytime within that window (same with renegade). generally speaking, most guys start with one of those companies and as they progress they end up switching to a company like spectrum, hilzinger or menzerna when they really want to fine tune their results (much like detailers will get their start with auto parts store compounds pads and polishes and then ultimately getting picky and moving over to brands like sonax, lake country, rupes, etc)
@superiorautodetailing two things I will share with you on the flanges; 1 is if you plan on running at any point above 3500 rpm (not beginner recommended as I've stated in the video) you need aluminum. Otherwise you're fine on plastic/composite flanges. 2, none of the center ring diameters are consistent from brand to brand. In other words if you buy let's say renegades aluminum centering flanges, your zephyr buffs may not fit or vice versa. So if you plan on doing any experimenting I'd make sure you're really happy with one brand of buffs before you start buying aluminum flanges
@@brackishindustries thank you so much for the advice, GREATLY appreciated! I feel like sticking with one company is best at least at first. That's kind of what I did with auto detailing just because it can be overwhelming trying to find the best products across hundreds of companies.
I like Menzerna's compounds for paint too. They make one of my favorite heavy cutting compounds for buffing paint. I'm not sure if they make a starter kit but I'd have no problem using them. You seem to like their stuff and you obviously know what you're doing!
Anyway, I won't pester you anymore, thanks so much for taking the time to give me some advice!
Do you still recommend using the orbital sander on a mountain crusher face?
@tristanrumsey8831 yes. You can't keep a rotary flat. You can try different Dremel bits and things in the Curves and the recessed areas
@ thank you very much 👌🏻👌🏻
Awesome video thank you so much!
@@MoparFuel thank you! your welcome
Awesome video!!!!
Thank you!
Amazing it truly is an art.
Yes it is. Thanks!
Wow! What a Great Video! I'm getting ready to polish my original 79 Vette Aluminum slotted rims and they have a lot of tooling / maching marks. I've tried the abrasive balls but it doesn't do the trick. I saw here that you show the smaller Bauer Grinder with the flexible backing plate and I'm thinking this may be the way to get rid of those marks as i'm going around the wheel and between the slots The only thing is that the Bauer I found only comes in 5/16-24 thread and feel that the arbor being 5/16 may not be able to handle all the sanding I need to do meaning it might break off or something. I thought these grinders all came with a 5/8 thread. I saw the flex plates were available on Amazon. Do you recommend to a newbie like me the That small Bauer with the Flex Plate? Can you provide the Model Number? Thanks!
The bauer you saw me referring to is a model #1814E-B (i removed the plastic handle from the head) and you go on Amazon and copy and paste: TORQ BUFLC201 R5 Dual-Action Backing Plate with Hyper Flex Technology, Red (5 Inch you will find the exact backing plate I'm using. Keep in mind that is NOT a rotary machine is is a dual action paint polisher. Rotary machines use a 5/8 thread and paint polishers use a 5/16 as you mentioned. These machines work great with a wide barreled wheel like the 14 wide weld in this video. The problem is because they throw and they spin at the same time, they bump edges alot and don't do well with skinny barrels or anywhere where there's a transition or lip. Without seeing your wheel I can't advise. DM me pictures on Instagram @deanryan0899 if you'd like me to take a look and advise accordingly on how to address your wheels
@@brackishindustries Thank you so much for getting back to me so quick... I'm trying to send you pics on instagram but couldn't find your account or maybe I'm doing something wrong... LOL.... If you send me your email maybe that would be easier.... Thanks!
Nevermind... I found you as deanryan08.... I'll send you pics now for your guidance.
Hey, awsome results and great video!!! What the best way to tackle oxidized/surface rusted rivet heads? I have a set of Enkei Cookie Cutter Saw Blade American Racing wheels that I want to try polishing.
Thanks! The part of the video around the time I start cutting the rivets around the outer lip is exactly how I would do the rivets on eneki blades, depending on the severity I might try and attack the the same way you see me cutting the lug pad (the wheel on its back on the ground and firmly holding the buffer with your hands and the wheel with your feet using the "grip and rip" method once all the way around the wheel moving your body around the wheel clockwise positioning the buffer at 9oclock going all the way around, then repeat going counter clockwise with the buffer at 3oclock again going all the way around so that both sides of your rivets have been polished
Thanks man!!! @@brackishindustries
@@irz587 any time 👍
Very impressive. I polish truck wheels and tanks on the weekends, but I have yet to master that finish. My finish looks fantastic but in my eyes you have a true show finish there. I live below you in St.marys county, charlotte hall. I have a couple questions, (airway wheel selection) is there any way I may be able to reach out other than the comment section?
@@brackishindustries Hey no problem about the delay, I only do youtube. I appreciate you reaching back out just the same. Ill just call spectrum. Thanks again
Where did you purchase the mini buffs from? I've found a few, but none which have a full systems (hard, course, medium, soft, fine, etc.). I didn't see the link in this video.
Spectrumalberta.ca you can find all of the mini buffs and the flanges to mount them on a polisher
@brackishindustries Solid find my man! I was looking everywhere for these before posting my last comment. Sucks that shipping is outrageous to the U.S., but for the convenience of their size, I may just buy them anyways, perhaps in bulk.
Well done! Do you ever use a sealer or something like a sharkhide protectant?
Thank you! No I don't; The menzerna compounds have natural sealants in them last several months if not more than a year if well maintained. I've tried shark hide, clear powder coat, wax, ceramic coating, and a few other protectants that I'm probably forgetting to mention. All of which will add surface protection but at the cost of clarity of the wheel. Right now you can read the serial number in the reflection of a $100 bill clear as day, once one of these protective coatings is applied, That seem reflection gets much more blurry. Not saying some people might be okay with that but my preference is to have as much of that deep rich reflective clarity as I can get
Love the video man! I've seen some guys stop at 600 (im one of them) instead of going to 800. Have you noticed a better clarity or benefit to going to 800? Thanks!
Thank you! No not necessarily. I occasionally stop at 600 myself but I have found that cutting out the sanding especially for beginners is much nicer at 800 versus 600
Any advice on American Force wheels? would you use the same compounds since american force wheels tend to be a little softer?
Welds are actually much softer than forces especially any forces made after wheel pros acquired them. I do them the exact same way I do these welds but I don't take the tire off. Stay tuned hoping to have a force video out this summer
How do you feel about sanding lips of wheels ? (3pc Work wheels) I’ve heard you don’t wanna sand the lip too much . Is there any issues when it comes to sanding wheels too much and making the material/ lip to thin?
I haven't worked with work wheels specifically but I have done plenty of CCW in the past which appear to have similar lips. Sanding these lips can be difficult because there's not much lip/barrel to fit a sander in and make it look right. If I were you I would try to cut he heck out of the lip and avoid sanding at all costs (because if you make defects by accident there's really no fixing them without completely taking the wheel apart and screwing the outer barrel to a board and polishing them that way. Also, if your renters are painted, powdercoated, or anything other than raw aluminum, I would create a tape buffer at the outer portion of the spoke where it meets the barrel if you're machine polishing them like I did in this video. My preferred method is to put painters tape over the spoke where the buff might hit it, then duct tape over the painters tape, then painters tape over the duct tape electives making a painters, duct, painters tape sandwich. This is the best way to give yourself Insurance of not accidentally hitting the coating and removing it, but also taking the tape back off without lifting g the coating. Hope that helps
I have a Weld 15x4 racing wheel. I have a DA and I’m having problems with sanding because of the width of the wheel 🛞. Do you have any suggestions? DA/Orbital. I sure would appreciate it if you could help me. Thanks
Did you mean 15x14? or 15x4? Are you having problems sanding the face or the barrel?
@@brackishindustries15x4. Having problems sanding it because I don’t have room enough to do it correctly. Thanks for responding back. That means a lot sanding the whole wheel 🛞
@@brackishindustriesyes I keep doubling my work because of the small area too sand. I can’t get my DA to sand the wheel 🛞 like you’re describing. The 15x4 weld Wheel 🛞 is very hard to do. Thanks
@@brackishindustriesdo you have any suggestions?
@@brackishindustriesI will try. Thanks
Was trying to use your discount code, but it isnt working, says invalid?
@ryanjackson587 hey Ryan thanks for trying, since this video was produced Spectrum remove their discount programs whether it be wholesale or promotional like in this video and made their best possible price available to everyone
FedEx is a Pain in the Rear
They really are 🤦
How can I get in contact with you? I’m in MD also thanks
@@TheGoochmeister are you on instagram?
@@brackishindustries yes @feng.shui911
@@brackishindustries I also second this. But in Virginia. I have a lot more questions for the overall polishing stuff and materials.
@@cushingjr6601 messag me in Instagram my handle is @deanryan08
What wheels are these?
Weld racing 16.5x14 stonecrushers
Too much work for how long it will last. Just buy chrome. Polish aluminum too much up keep. You will not have any time to sleep or eat from always washing and hand Polishing them wheels.
@DR-um2bv chrome eventually flakes and pits on wheels especially because of the nature of wheels being close to the ground moving fast and road debris (sand gravel rocks salt etc.) Are unavoidable. People who bought these wheels in the late 90's - mid 2000's in chrome are WISHING they bought them in polished aluminum today because they are worth 400% more money on average if they're aluminum because they can be restored easily compared to the same wheel chrome plated
Love the intro it was funny
Thanks! Had to get my point acrossed somehow 😆