Відео

Hi, when you follow the wires back from the indicator head, you will see they are connected via bullet connectors. Just pull them out, unscrew the indicators and out they come.

@@MrLefthooker Thank you so much!!

Yeah, it's a pretty standard rattle that the basket makes 👍🏻

Hi, No, unfortunately not. The only form of historical exemption is the option of getting a historical number plate which you can apply for after 30 years. The vehicle is then examined and only if it is deemed "historically correct" can you get the title. The only advantage after that is a slight reduction in insurance, but you still have to pay tax and do the roadworthy tests. Over here in Germany they are very strict on things like that. I might actually do a video on it to explain how the system works over here. Thanks for watching, keep safe 🤘🏻

Doesn't time fly 😁

I can only imagine to put more preload on a slack chain? Sounds like a recipe for disaster if you ask me 👌🏻

You remove the 2 handlebars, then undo the 28mm stem nut and the 10mm pinch nuts on the fork stanchions, then with a rubber mallet you can carefully knock the whole plate upwards. Remember that you probably have air in the forks and that will escape once the plate has been removed.

Hi Per, that sounds Swedish? How can I assist you?

@@MrLefthooker Thank you for the fast reply and great channel. It’s correkt, i am Swedish so bare with me if you have trouble understanding my english. I recently bought my teenage dreambike on a auctionsite. I knew it came with some issues, it ran very porely. I have replaced all the fluids and filters, fixed leaking forkseals and cleaned the carbs, i have also added two extra fuelfilters to the gaslines. After the carbclean my thoughts was to test it before i possibly build myself a synchronization device. The bike starts without hesitation, but it runs very badly when it’s cold (not normal bad), it revs on choke from 0-5000 rpm for a couple of minutes, after that the idle is normal and it runs like i suppose it should. But i seems to run hot, after testrun the fan starts after killing it. Why is it getting so hot? (I have flushed the system and refilled it). According to the Haynes manual i could be multipel issues. I was thinking i could be a leakage from the intake boots, but when spraying startergas when running it make no difference to the revs. ( it was as you know not the easiest task to put the carbs to the airfilter back together again). The bike have most likely not been i use for a long time, and when i disasembled the carbs and saw how dirty the were i was surprised that it even could start. The sparkplugs areold bur the seems to work fine, i checked the coils (both 2.7 oHM). Any ideas from such a methodical person like you would be appreciated. Best regards: Per Eklund

Ok, so we have a few issues here that I will try to attend to. Firstly, 2 inline filters? I personally advise everyone to take them out. 1 I can understand if the tank has a problem and you need a quick fix, but 2? That is probably going to cause starvation when riding. How were the carbs cleaned. Particular attention is needed on the pilot jets, they block up easily and prevent a decent idle. These bikes get hot quickly, they need to move forwards. They hate running when standing, it only takes 5-10 minutes to get that fan on. They also hate own traffic and traffic jams. I avoid both at all costs. I wouldn't worry too much about the heat untill you get out on good longer runs. Sounds like the intake boots are sealing well, thats good. So, it all sounds the same as most other GPZ600R. They sometimes just need some good riding before they run properly. Nothing here sounds serious, lets put it that way. Watch that idling, you may have to need to do the carbs again, especially the idle system.

@@MrLefthooker Thank you for replying. I must say i also was sceptical to use filters, one is for the primer and the other one för the normal gas line. I am going to take them off to see if it makes any approvment, othervise i will do another carbclean. I don’t have access to one of those cleaning devices that you are using, but i have good quality carbcleaner and compressed air. I Will do this the coming days, and i will also get you an update with the result. Thanks again for taking the time to help me out. Per

VICTORY! I did one more carbclean, and it seems like i must have missed some dirt in the first cleanup, because the carbs were really dirty again. I am going to get myself one of those ultrasonic machines aswell. Now the bike runs so sweet, thanks for your help and thanks for sharing your fantastic videos on youtube. Best regards: Per Eklund

Sure, I can help. Where are you and what are you trying to identify, or find ?

@@MrLefthooker I need coil packs, plug wires, two carbs rebuilt, clutch cable, linkage rod for shifter and I live in Parrish Al

@@TommyGreen-pp5zs Ok, so in the states. Well, obviously I don't have a parts bin ready to supply the whole world, but the way I could assist is to have you pop into the GPZ600R facebook group and ask the users there. We have over 2000 members and quite a few state side, so you should find what you need ..

Unfortunatley no. The insides are protected by a coating of plasitc that do not allow you access to the printed circuit boards. I am not convinced that my one is original as I have never seen one like this before.

El que yo tengo tiene una tapa metálica con tornillos y se mira que es igual al de usted.

Then sure, it can be repaired. It depends on what is broken 👍🏻

Perfecto. muchas gracias por la información 😉👌🏼

Hey Nick, thanks for watching fella, nice that I'm able to reach out to you guys. Yeah, some things are not built for fudgy european fingers. 😁

Hi, No, I can't even begin to guess with the information you have given me. I would need at least a detailed description of the problem, when it started, what happens exactly and so on.

So yours is called the 600 Ninja right?

@@MrLefthooker Hi , yes...Technically a 600A Ninja.....1984-1987 were the " A" models and follows are the B, C...I have had two of these exact 1985 600A red/Blk bikes ....I owned my first one as a young man back in 1986- 1990 and sold it and liked and missed it so much that 10 years ago I found another one exactly like it in mint condition and still have it.... : )

The A model is the GPZ, going from A1 in 1985 to A5 in 1990. The B model is the limited GPZ600RX, the famous aluminium frame. The C model is the GPX600R which goes right up to C10. It's a similar story with so many people. Having owned one once, many go back to one years later. The name ninja wasn't used here in Europe, but we all know it's ninja roots 😁

You mean the synchronisation?

Hi, they are just rubber caps. There are 2 different types of oil lines. There are those that are screwed in, and those, like these, that are just popped on. To prevent them from popping off due to vibration, these little black caps go on the oil lines, and are held in place by the rocker cover. Hope this helps 👍🏻

So no real purpose? I noticed one of em is gone

Well, the purpose is to stop the oil connection from lifting off, and yeah, sometimes they get lost as they stick to the lid and then you lift the lid they then fall off unnoticed. But you are right, even when off I've never lost an oil collection.

@@MrLefthooker thanks alot!

Hi, I'm not entirely sure I understand what you want to know. "recommended pressure range"? These shocks are oil filled with air assistance. There is a valve on it, the same type as on your tyres, and you can pump air into the shock to stiffen it up. The factory settings here are 0 to 50 psi. Don't exceed that or you may burst the insides of the shock. The pull pin that goes 1 to 4 is to adjust the dampening. If I remember correctly, 1 being the softest setting and 4 the hardest. This is the amount of rebound and the pumped in air supports this. You can go from very soft on position 1 with no air to hard as rock on position 4 with max air assistance. Hope this helps.

@@MrLefthooker thank you! The 0-50psi was the piece I was missing. I think I put 10psi in it originally, so now I know how much room I have to make additional adjustments. I appreciate you taking the time to answer. Thanks again!

@@TwoWheelRestorations You're welcome

Why's that?

@@MrLefthooker i dont know the manaul says that

Nice. The 1991 model belongs to the first generations where you had the full 85bph. After 1994 things changed, and due to noise and emissions laws the power was reduced to 77, and later, 74bhp. Have fun 😁

@@MrLefthooker yes it does. Thank you very much I’m having the time of my life on it. You have fun too!

2 Turns out is factory setting

Also a great classic from the day. Unfortunately the GPX, which was built right up to 1997, had to compete with some really good, and modern bikes, like the ZZR600, which was , in my mind, a game changer. Thanks for watching 👍🏻

Depending on how old you are, you either like older bikes, or like me, it's a blast from the past and I relive a bit of that feeling of nostalgia when I ride it. Thanks for watching 👍🏻😎

I use a GoPro Hero 12 inside a media mod cage. This allows me to fit an external microphone. I made a small microphone clip on my 3D printer and fitted it inside my helmet right next to the SENA headset microphone. 👍🏻

Wo ist das Problem mit deine?

@@MrLefthooker Zeit das ist größte Problem. Mus noch Vergaser reinigen und einstellen. Öl wanne Dichtung tauschen, auspuff krümmer Bolzen tauschen, dann eigentlich nur noch lackieren Verkleidung. 😬

@@helwigniko Das ist schon ordentlich was zu tun 🙂

@@MrLefthooker ich versuche schon schnell wie möglich. Bis ich alle Teile zusammen gefunden das dauert alles, ich habe doch bei dir vor letzter Jahr auch was gekauft 😜, gruß aus Dortmund

@@helwigniko 😮 echt? Tut mir leid, hab ich nicht mehr auf dem Schirm... Was hab ich dir verkauft? Vielleicht erinnere ich mich wieder 😁

Do let us know how you get on 👍🏻

It's difficult to see exactly where it is coming from, but as it looks like fuel is coming from all over, I think it might be coming from the overflow at the top. This means at least 1 of the float valves is probably not sealing, either worn out or something is blocking it (rusty tank maybe?) it's quite bad so I suggest taking the carbs out, and fitting new float valves and bowl seals. They could probably use a good clean in an ultrasonic tub. Good luck 👍🏻

@@MrLefthooker do you do such repairs 😎 if you are close to the Dutch border, I can load the bike on my bus and come on holiday

Only for myself 😁 but you can watch my video "low carbs" I explain exactly how to do it 👍🏻

Yes, i saw all this 👍🏻. If you got it running then well done .. what setup did you end up with ? Did you have an aftermarket exhaust too? I presume so.

@@MrLefthooker before I even started I contacted NRP Carbs in Manchester and asked for some advice as I was ordering new pilot and main jets and they recommended I go up a couple of sizes. The bike runs on original headers with some home built straight through type silencers with a similar pipe diameter to the original baffles. The 3d printed manifold as some bell mouths incorporated that are about 35mm long which are just a bit shorter than the original airbox rubber ones that were all distorted and rock solid and made of unobtanium apparently. It runs fine and has no obvious flat spots but I don't ride it like I stole it so that may help😂

Hi, the link is dead, and possibly won't help anyway if it's not in your country, but, Google "yp401225p" that gives you the exact spec battery you are looking for. Hope this helps.

Watch my video "spark plug changing" I show you the correct order.

ZX600A 👍🏻

Hi and thank you for watching me rambling on about this old bike. An original, first hand 1985 bike is rare these days and I find it astonishing that people like yourself still have these time machines sitting in the garage. Well, 30 years is a long time, but doesn't necessarily mean everything needs changing. You basically have 2 options of approaching this. Either a full strip down and rebuild, changing practically all gaskets and seals prophylactic, or, doing a full service with particular attention to the carburettor (which is 90% of the reason these bikes won't start), brakes and tires. Get it "running" and tackle problems as and when they arise. The route you take will depend on space available to work on the bike, funds you are willing to pump into it and not least importantly, how good a bike mechanic you are. So, I personally would clean the carbs first, then check the brakes (fluid change, pads, brake lines and connectors), probably replace the tires, oil and filter, check seals in the forks, rear suspension and cooling system. Check air pressure in the front and rear suspension and at least check the valve clearances. It's a couple of days work, but imperative after such a long time. If I was close I'd be round at the drop of a hat getting a chance to work on such a lovely bike. Good luck and do let me know how you get on. Oh, and get a service manual 👍🏻

Hi and thanks for the reply. Basically my idea is similar to your second suggestion. I do have a service manual and I will do all the work, but I was curious to know if I should consider non-OEM parts for the carbs and if so, who is a good resource? Looking at Amazon, eBay...etc. there are many suppliers but I'm not familiar with who can provide quality replacement parts and was wondering if you had any suggestions. Much appreciated... If you can't answer, I'll understand.

@@user-zq6ow7ov2r regarding to OEM or aftermarket repair kits for the carbs, it does appear as if all the aftermarket stuff comes from the same place. So far I've not heard anyone specifically complaining about a certain brand. I myself have bought "cheap" kits and been more than happy. OEM stuff seems to be priced in its weight in gold. Rediculous. I can only really suggest the usual online shops, read the comments and try it out. But I can't specifically tell you to steer clear of anything in particular, I've just not had any bad feedback. 👍🏻

Inside that crankcase breather hole there is a tube which goes down into the sump. It will have picked up some oil, and is covered on the inside of that tube. Once you took some oil out it might take a bit of time for it to settle down, but there is nothing to worry about. Just look at your air filter now and again to make sure no oil has been pushed through it and ruined it, but it should be fine. Thanks for watching and remember to subscribe to get notifications on new videos.

Good job testing it with heat. It's often a thermal problem. Testing when cold usually shows nothing unusual. It's when things get hot it goes bad.

I don't understand, sorry. Try again.

Where do I begin? Firstly, that's bad about your bike. Ever thought of getting a replacement? As for listening to my videos as a podcast, I absolutely love that comment, the nicest compliment I had, next to "you're the Bob Ross of motorbikes" .. only good if you know Bob Ross. Thank you so much for watching, I'll try to keep the videos coming 🙏🏻

@@MrLefthooker when I get my economical situation fixed(poor student ) i will definetely try to get a replacement through the FB group ❤️. All the effort you put into your videos is highly appriciated❤️

Ah , are you in the group too?

@@MrLefthooker Yes!! We have a great community! Got a lot of help from members when I had issues with the bike and they(including you ) helped to solve all of them!

Hi and thanks for watching. In case you haven't found it, if you go back in time a little bit I did do a couple of spray videos. One in silver and one in black. These bikes are so old they don't have paint codes as we know today. The colours had names, like this firecracker red and ebony black. As for the frame, well, I found "wheel silver" to be a very good substitute. It looks pretty much original and it tends to be a bit tougher than normal paint. It also has that slight glittery effect that makes it look like powder coat. Have fun and keep watching, thank you 🙏🏻

Thank you 👍🏻😊

Thanks for the kind words. You did your "bike" training over winter, in Scotland? Sir, I tip my hat 🤠. The summer is coming, have fun and stay safe.

The good news is, you can measure the coils , stator and pick-ups easily. It's worth noting that if you do the checks in cold and hot conditions (I mean the bike, not the weather) you can see if there are any big ohm differences, which could potentially indicate something breaking down under thermal stress (when getting hot) The cdi is a classic and specifically shows it's flaws when hot. For pick-ups and stator checks , look up my videos, you will find what you need 👍🏻 Thanks for watching, if not already, I'd appreciate a subscription and a thumbs up. Thanks again.

@@MrLefthooker yeah will do that, already swapped the pick up for a other one since the ohm was out of spec, the cdi is a bit tricky because i have the haynes manual and it shows what resistance you should have per pin combo etc. definitly suspecting the coils but thanks i will rewatch your videos again ;)

Unfortunately you can't measure the cdi with a normal multimeter. It's done with a Kawasaki special tool (if anyone even has one these days). You are pretty much left to finding someone in your area with a similar bike and swapping the cdi out temporarily, or going blind for a replacement unit (which I don't recommend, nothing good about spending money where you don't know if it's necessary.)

Hi, I have done a video on balancing and various tools I use, maybe that's any use, but I might do a special on this subject specific to the keihin cvk32 on the GPZ600R. Thanks for the input 👍🏻