- 23
- 16 575
The True Connoisseur
Приєднався 6 гру 2020
Over here at The True Connoisseur, I like to chat about fragrance as the subject of personal experience and as a broader cultural phenomenon. Join me if you enjoy mildly pretentious rambling about the fragrance world!
Amber & Ambergris
What's amber? What's ambergris?
Fragrances discussed:
Acqua di Parma Ambra
AcquaFlor Ambra
Cartier Oud & Ambre
Clandestine Laboratories Silver
D.S. & Durga Amber Kiso
Eris Mxxx.
Floris No. 007
Gianfranco Ferre Bergamotto Marino
Hermès Ambre Narguile
Hermès Eau des Merveilles
Les Indemodables Escale en Indonesie
Lorenzo Villoresi Ambra
Maison Anthony Marmin Sheikh Al Faransi
Prada Marienbad
Rania J. Ambre Loup
Serge Lutens La Couche du Diable
Tom Ford Tobacco Oud
Fragrances discussed:
Acqua di Parma Ambra
AcquaFlor Ambra
Cartier Oud & Ambre
Clandestine Laboratories Silver
D.S. & Durga Amber Kiso
Eris Mxxx.
Floris No. 007
Gianfranco Ferre Bergamotto Marino
Hermès Ambre Narguile
Hermès Eau des Merveilles
Les Indemodables Escale en Indonesie
Lorenzo Villoresi Ambra
Maison Anthony Marmin Sheikh Al Faransi
Prada Marienbad
Rania J. Ambre Loup
Serge Lutens La Couche du Diable
Tom Ford Tobacco Oud
Переглядів: 686
Відео
L'Envol Parfum: A review for posterity
Переглядів 26321 день тому
A review of the very rare Cartier L'Envol Parfum, which was a Harrod's exclusive release.
What I've worn the most in 2024 (so far)
Переглядів 713Місяць тому
Fragrances discussed: Sorcinelli Notre Dame Notte di Natale Profumum Roma Arso ADP Colonia ADP Note di Colonia IV Caron PUH Parfum Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon EDP Cartier Oud & Menthe Manos Gerakinis Immortelle
Most Worn Fragrances (July 2024)
Переглядів 137Місяць тому
Been busy, but here's what I wore the most in July!
You might be surprised
Переглядів 1,1 тис.2 місяці тому
Fragrances discussed: Acqua di Parma Colonia Caron pour Un Homme Parfum Caron pour Un Homme Sport Diptyque Philosykos EDP Hermès Eau des Merveilles L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube Manos Gerakinis Immortelle Xerjoff Casamorati Fiero
The darker side of tobacco fragrances
Переглядів 8422 місяці тому
Finishing up my review of tobacco fragrances with some fragrances that bring out its darker side. Discussed: Carner Barcelona Sandor 70's Clandestine Laboratories Lost in Time Lalique Ombre Noire Lorenzo Villoresi Atman Xaman EDP Masque Milano Montecristo Tom Ford Tobacco Oud
What did I wear the most?
Переглядів 5713 місяці тому
Let's talk about the fragrances I wore the most in May! Featured: Acqua di Parma Colonia Cartier Le Treizième Heure Cartier Oud & Ambre Cartier Oud & Vanillé Cartier Oud Radieux Omanluxury Royal Incense
Gentlemanly tobacco fragrances
Переглядів 7173 місяці тому
In this video, I take time to talk about some fragrances that showcase tobacco's gentlemanly side. Fragrances discussed: Aramis Havana Czech & Speake Cuba Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba AquaFlor La Habana Hilde Soliani Bell'Antonio Eau d'Italie Bois d'Ombrie Clandestine Laboratories Orpheus
I fell in love with frankincense
Переглядів 5963 місяці тому
I love frankincense and wanted to talk about my favorite frankincense fragrances. Discussed: Apoteker Tepe The Holy Mountain AquaFlor Bakhur Ermenegildo Zegna Passion Filippo Sorcinelli Notre Dame Notte di Natale Fueguia 1833 Dunas de un Cuerpo Omanluxury Royal Incense Pineider Nero Incenso Profumum Roma Arso
There's nothing else like this
Переглядів 4513 місяці тому
Andy Tauer is one of the most influential independent perfumers. In Orange Star, he made something truly unique.
The sweeter side of tobacco
Переглядів 1 тис.3 місяці тому
Sweet tobacco fragrances are everywhere these days. Let's talk about what defines the style and about my favorites in the category. Fragrances discussed: Hermès Ambre Narguile The Merchant of Venice Arabesque Les Indemodables Vanille Havane Lalique Noir Premier Or Intemporel 1888 Alessandro Serpico Tabacco L'Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument Tauer Sundowner Rasasi Oudh Al Boruzz Abeer Malaysia
Review: Pasha de Cartier Noir Absolu
Переглядів 5033 місяці тому
In this video, I give you my impressions of Pasha de Cartier Noir Absolu.
Things are getting weird
Переглядів 1 тис.4 місяці тому
In this video, I wanted to talk about sont of my favorite vanilla perfumes. They're the kind of vanilla perfumes that smell, well, a little weird. Fragrances discussed: Cartier Oud Vanille Eris Mxxx. Guerlain Angelique Noire L'Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument Lalique Le Parfum Les Indemodables Vanille Havane Santa Maria Novella Vaniglia
Overhauling my fragrance collection
Переглядів 7434 місяці тому
My collection has changed a lot recently. I've noticed some themes. Fragrances mentioned: Lorenzo Villoresi Ambra Serge Lutens La Couche du Diable MFK Grand Soir Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114 AquaFlor Ambra Acqua di Parma Ambra Sorcinelli Notre Dame Notte di Natale Pineider Nero Incenso Santa Maria Novella Oppoponax Givenchy Gentleman (Vintage) L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme eau Extreme Serg...
My Most Worn Fragrances: April 2024
Переглядів 4804 місяці тому
I'm taking a quick look back at April to celebrate my most-worn fragrances of the month. Fragrances discussed: Acqua di Parma Note di Colonia IV Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon EDP Filippo Sorcinelli Notre Dame Notte di Natale L'Artisan Al Oudh Profumum Roma Arso Santa Maria Novella Colonia Russa Villoresi Alamut
An Unboxing to End All Unboxings: Sorcinelli Notre Dame Notte di Natale
Переглядів 8364 місяці тому
An Unboxing to End All Unboxings: Sorcinelli Notre Dame Notte di Natale
L'Envol de Cartier: When bad things happen to good fragrances
Переглядів 9834 місяці тому
L'Envol de Cartier: When bad things happen to good fragrances
Just what is a "springtime" fragrance, anyway?
Переглядів 7845 місяців тому
Just what is a "springtime" fragrance, anyway?
I love Italian perfumery (and so should you)
Переглядів 6655 місяців тому
I love Italian perfumery (and so should you)
My top ten fragrances (and what they say about me)
Переглядів 1,5 тис.5 місяців тому
My top ten fragrances (and what they say about me)
What Esxence 2024 tells us about the state of the fragrance world
Переглядів 4565 місяців тому
What Esxence 2024 tells us about the state of the fragrance world
Where I've Been (+ Francesca Bianchi Byzantine Amber)
Переглядів 65211 місяців тому
Where I've Been ( Francesca Bianchi Byzantine Amber)
Yeah, it's kinda funny how most people writing reviews about Tobacco Oud don't see that heavy labdanum, it's about equal in power to the tobacco accord and much much more prominent than synth oud. Great channel.
I don't think there's even really a synthoud accord in there (at least not one of the standard ones). Just kinda abstract dark smokiness. Tobacco and amber and cistus is really all I get from it.
Another excellent video. Thank you, Ryan.
Cheers!
Great video! Rania J! I want to get my nose on her scents. Thanks for the review.
Rania J is quite talented! I think you'd like her work.
Scents where the ambergris is really noticable are a real turn off for me. Some amber dominant frags can smell very medicinal. A lot of Creeds best sellers have the a noticeable ambergris like Green Irish Tweed as an example. Dior Ambre Suit (especially an oil version of this fragrance they have) is a good example of the kind of Amber I mention. However Tom Ford discontinued Amber Absolute is great with the medicinal very toned down. Creed Royal Water has a toned down ambergris but it's not one of their top sellers.
The ambergris in Creed is different than the ambergris in the fragrances I focused on in my video, so they might be worth sampling!
Really interesting and informative video on the difference with Amber and Ambergris. Thanks so much Ryan
Thanks for the kind words!
I think you would appreciate RYDER (EXIDOLO)...an "amber" by default, as a result of a very rich, intense & satisfying labdanum backbone.
Ooh! I'll add it to my sample list.
Where is the old channel
Really nice selection. Cartier Oud & Ambre for the win!
Thanks, Michael!
Another excellent video-- lots of new perfumes for me to hunt down samples of, especially the ones from Villoresi and Clandestine Laboratories. Labdanum is quickly becoming a favorite note, so much so that I'm searching for warm weather labdanum perfumes too. I'm a sucker for Profumum Roma's ambers, both the lauded Ambra Aurea and very underrated Fiore d'Ambra. Profumum's Patchouly is one is my goat perfumes and is kind of an amber too, I suppose. I also love the dry, herbal facets of Lutens' Ambre Sultan (and goes well with summer nights).
I need to try Fiore d'Ambra!
Pardon me, but Aqua di Parma used real ambegris tincture in their Ambra perfume. I sayd that because i smell the real deal once in my life, and when you”ve experienced that amazing feeling Ambegris ofering, you cannot missed it in any perfume. OFC, its supportet by some other sinthetic compounds, but by any means, its not a synthetic ambegris aka orcanox, ambroxan, etc. Nice list, i have, had and love a lot of your choices!
I thought ADP Ambra might be using ambergris oliffac. But it's nice!
I hadn't decided what to wear yet today and your video inspired me to put on Guerlain Encens Mythique. So nice on a grey humid day!
Enjoy!
Ohhh! Thanks for the explanation and this list. Will definitely be looking to sample LV Ambra as well as Ambre Loup.
Cheers, friend
Such a great review! Appreciate all the information and the broad selection. I didn't know you owned/were a fan of Amber Kiso. I do as well, but I have a hot/cold relationship with it. Sometimes it really turns me off (even in season; can't imagine it in high summer) and sometimes it feels just right. My favorite days to wear it are damp fall days as I find it very moody. Weirdly, on my skin it wears somewhat lightly but on clothes, omg, it basically doesn't come out. I blind bought La Couche because of your raves and did not regret it! So, so good. You had described it as "singed labdanum" before, which it turns out, is a perfect description. I need to check of Villoresi in general and Ambra in particular. Even living in NY, I don't know of any place to go and try them. Also, I never noticed this before (because I rarely notice these types of things) but to do a 30+ minute video without a script and in one take is notable and impressive!
Yeah, Amber Kiso is a fragrance with two faces. I'm so glad you love La Couche. It's stunning stuff!
very informative! I have Ambra Calabria by Nishane which is a greenish vanilla-like amber and Amber Room by Thameen. Have you tried either of these? I would be interested in how they would fit into this list, if at all. Thank you for the video!
I wish I could comment, but I haven't tried either!
Absolutely first class video, can’t tell you how good it is to see a new one like this. Hope you’ve been well.
Cheers, Lance!
Loved the vid Ryan. Great take on Ambre Loup btw. The season is definitely approaching to be giving that one more wear. Yet to try 007 though. I've been surrepticiously eyeing it for a few months now. 🥸
007 is underrated. Really nice stuff.
Cheers Ryan , lovely selection and great review and explanation on the Ambergris/ Amber misconstrued name and ingredient listing by houses. Have a terrific week my good man 💪🤛👊
Cheers, Bren!
That’s exactly how I want to pronounce Ambre Narguile too! I’m so glad it made the list and it’s lovely to see one of your lovely long videos, feels like a while since the last.
I was certainly overdue!
Now watching...
Very handsome man. ❤️
You'll make me blush.
@@thetrueconnoisseur 😘❤️
I have liked Mathilde Laurent's earlier work at Cartier but have not been taken with anything I have tested since 2018's L'envol which has also put me off the brand. Open to any suggestions
Oud Radieux is pretty stunning.
Interesting, just went through a whole bottle of the EDP. I never even knew this existed. Heck, I didn't even know there's an EDT. Regarding the EDP, I would say the honey note is spot on, it actually smells like real honey to me.
Cheers Ryan , terrific review and I am a big fan of the house and L’Envol edt ,I-was very curious about the Parfum however I was afraid it would be like the other claims of a Parfum from various houses of late , as in my opinion they are not anything like parfums as we know them , seem to be a similar smoke and mirrors here . But I bet it is a great little fragrance,just not a quality parfum offering. Great job have a super Sunday 💪🤛👊
Yeah, a fine little thing, just not a great thing.
I've had this on my radar when i very first seen it on Parfumo. To try to get it i even went to both their flagship boutique in Manhattan and to their Hudson Yards location. No one has even heard of this. It wasn't until after having watched your video did i know it was a Harrods exclusive. I always vowed to purchase it on any reputable site i should see it on, no matter the cost. However, after hearing your take on it, I'm not so encouraged to do so anymore. I would hate dropping 2+ for some---as i glean from you---goo? In any event, thanks. Always appreciate your take.
Of course, my opinion is just my own! But I'm glad I could be of service.
I have it and it is amazing. It will shine more during Winter
I love L’Envol EdP. I’m not sure I need to make the effort to try the Parfum now. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Will they be able to find your review? Not sure how the search function works but your title has no mention of what fragrance it is
Yes, it's in the video tags (and I often tweak my titles after initial release).
@@thetrueconnoisseur Great. Thanks for the review and the info.
It sounds like what Mathilde did with L'envol parfum is similar to what she did with Pasha parfum. That one quite heavy on the benzoin-y ambrocenide. Appreciate your thoughts Ryan!
Similar in direction, though Pasha Parfum is much better, IMO!
Perfect title for this, it’s almost a holy grail fragrance and it’s lovely to get your take
Cheers, Jane!
That AcP Note IV comes up in relation to Opopanax by SMN. what do you think?
I think they're definitely relatives, but I don't think it's redundant to own both!
Nice selection, and I’m feeling the draw towards incense as well. How would you compare Arso to The Holy Mountain? Different wearability? How are they different and how are they similar?
The Holy Mountain is more complex and less about "pine needles" and more broadly about pine as an aroma. The Holy Mountain puts much more emphasis on smoke, though they're in the same family. If you can only get one, Holy Mountain gets my vote.
Just blind bought Atman Xaman this week; wearing now and very happy with it! I get the reference to 1740, but like you said it’s a much cooler fragrance, as opposed to the warm buttery tones of 1740. It comes off a bit camphorous to my nose, reminding me a bit of Tauer’s Lonestar Memories. Also, of another Parfum d’Empire fragrance, Fougere Bengale, in that it also has a bit of that ‘spiced bread’.
Ohhh, I'm so glad you're enjoying it!
Dayum homie where’d u get them shades?
They're Ray-Bans!
Ryan have you tried costume national free or oriza reve d ossian? i found them a mainly frankincense perfumes that are versatile
I *think* I've tried the Oriza, but don't remember it. I haven't tried the Costume National you mention!
nice new style Ryan very casual.. that's a very good idea.. thanks for the video
Thank you!
So good to see a new video Ryan I can’t tell you 😋
Thank you, Jane!
Lovely selection Ryan, thanks for sharing,much appreciated 💪🤛👊
Cheers, Bren!
Very nice! Thanks for sharing. You know, I've had Le Baiser du Dragon sitting in the Scent Armory. It was a hyped fragrance back-in-the-day, but we never quite bonded - something about it just has a plastic type of vibe that I didn't dig. Honestly, I have touched it in years...gotta wear it this weekend to see if my thoughts have changed, or perhaps the scent has transformed a bit over the years. Cheers!
The reformulation of Le Baiser (smooth cap) skews more towards white florals and I find it a little less "unisex," but I love the OG formulation.
Acqua Di Parma Note Di Colonia II L’Artisan Passage d’Enfer Extreme Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux Creed Himalaya
Very, very nice.
Thanks for sharing Ryan!
Cheers!
👋🤓. I rotate throughout my whole collection equally. Talking about Cartier. I found L'envol, but the PARFUM version. Rare & hard to find. Only Justin Copeland talked about it in a UA-cam short video.
Very, very rare.
Handsome. ❤
Thank you!
@@thetrueconnoisseur 😘😍
Some fragrances I’ve been loving in the heat have been Annick Goutal eau de sud, acqua di Parma - Colonia Assoluta and Guerlain Vetiver. Some great selections here Ryan - I also love that Dyptique in particular ☺️
Those are really good choices! I love Assoluta.
@@thetrueconnoisseur yes! Can’t believe it got discontinued!
Short & Sweet! Thx. I’ve been saving the bottle of Borneo I bought for cooler weather. Never thought to wear it now. I’ll give it a go!
It's not made for warmer weather, but I just like darker frags more than I like freshies.
Oh, ha. I thought I was going to get an ad for a coming attraction. But nope. Main event! I’ll take it, but I look forward to a feature length release soon! 😉
Soon!
I appreciate the very direct and to the point format; no fluff, all the stuff.
I have two modes: 30 min of off-the-cuff rambling or Cliff's Notes and nothing in-between
Lovely to hear from you! Sounds like you had a sweet smelling month
It was, indeed. I hope yours was the same.
Never disappoints! The immortelle is something I’ve never considered for my most perplexing section of wardrobe: the summer night wear. Thankyou for realizing YT is a visual medium, the new cuts look great! Looking forward to July list.
Cheers, LH. Summer nights are indeed tricky, and no hard and fast rules can be applied.
Nice list. For summer, I've been wearing stuff like Azemour Les Orangers, Le Cri, Eau de Gloire Cologne (clearly a lot of Parfum d'Empire), and testing around a lot of different things, including the Hermes Jardin line. I need to wear Seville a l'Aube more... it is fantastic.
That's a great list!
I ended up picking the EDP up, today, sensing that this seemed less available and having meant to get if for a while. Now I know why.
In this day and age, everything seems woefully short-lived.
@@thetrueconnoisseur Yes, the quarterly drive for ever increasing revenue! Retire the "old" and bring in the new.
You should show the racks of your stacks frags
I am not cool enough to understand what this means!