Відео

Thanks for the explanation mate!

Knife-wall two adjoining sides and just cut. Also pull through the full length of the saw, using the weight of the saw to cut and applying no pressure on the return push. The technique demonstrated in the video is what Bruce Lee would call a “complicate mess”.

Hi do you sell sigma power ceramic Waterstones ? A woodworker in England said he uses this stone.

Thank you. This helped a lot.

tht great job... what song he heard 😅😅

My own technique for cutting squareish stock is to rotate the wood 45 degrees such that you see a single line across two faces and then cut to that line, rather than cutting across one face and then moving to the adjacent face. If you can cut to that line then by definition, your cut will be square.

Even if i only flatten the first 20mm of the blade i would be there for an hour and a half on a 1000 grit stone, on my hand forged japanese chisels

Does that fancy brush have a specific name?

What kind of machine used in the old days, to do the numbers and lines? Now they do it with laser. But before that? Someone can tell me? Greetings, from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Why has this video not blown up. Crazy. Anyhow that was beautiful to watch and very well edited. Thank you. Looks like the Wood is Cedar. Do you know if it was Cedar?

Awesome set of 3 videos. I have recently (after 30 odd years of furniture making with western pattern chisels) bought a 30mm Japanese chisel. I have managed to sharpen it with the help of this video, and of course I promptly cut myself 😂

hello And is it possible to use such a combination of sharpening stones new cerax 320, 800, 3000 and final 6000?

I miss this content. I hope it's something you guys can come back to at some point.

Should have watched this video earlier. Getting the hoop off an already used chisel was most of the work!

Pretty simple as ryoba japanese saw, For carpenter project?

I just lay my speed square up against the side of the saw like I do with my skilsaw. Straight cut every time. Careful not to cut up your square though. Cause these Japanese saws will do it.

Great video, thank you for your great demonstration one question I’ve got a question for the people that use Japanese chisels is do they last as long as Western chisels. I know that Western chisels are fully flat on the back but since Japanese chisels have a concave design on the back does that affect how long they last? Thank you very much for any help you can provide God bless.

Great tutorial, thanks for these!

The Japanese use ink, not pencil.🤔😉

Jesus his forearm is ginormous

Can you attach a replacement atoma to the back of an atoma that is mounted to the atoma base plate instead of using glass?

Japan is the Honda engine of craftsmanship. Worlds finest.

I am not sure whether you still read comments on a video 3 years old but if so, when you dressed the back of the block could that not be done by removing the blade and chip breaker and then flattening the whole back using the sandpaper rather than the 2 part process shown?

Hello from France ! I find your videos very instructive and clear, thx for that ! A quick remaining question : some people recommend using diamond plates only with dedicated « lapping fluid » (like the Trend lapping fluid for instance) and to avoid water. Any thoughts about that ?

pretty cool

Looks good

I have one and use it for all my projects.

Thanks Christian. Great info as usual.

Please show how to sharpening a HSS Chisel. Thomas

Great video Mitch! I am quite familiar with making western wooden planes, but you illuminated a critical difference of the Japanese plane blades - they are tapered the opposite way of western (old) blades that require a wedge. That fact makes so many things make sense now. Western blades are fatter at the cutting edge to make the wooden wedge lock it into place by mechanical lock against cutting thrust, not just by friction.

What type of wood was used? Thank you!

I like to use the 140 for faster flattening then the 400 for a smooth finish for stones 1k-ish and above.

For the kakurikana that you demonstrated last, what do you do when, after repeated sharpening, the blade is too short to reach or extend from the sole to cut as desired? I have a fair bit of experience with western tools, but am just learning about Japanese tools now. I am puzzled by the lack of a wedge to hold the blade and tapping the blade to whatever depth of cut is desired. I do see that the blade is tapered and self wedges into the plane, but don't understand what is done when the blade shortens. Thank you for the excellent video.

I love my Japanese saws for joinery. But man, ripping with a bent over posture like you demonstrated looks miserable, and you only did it for a few seconds. Are you sure it primarily uses your abs?

This seems awfully complicated, is there any benefit in that construction method? A simple wedge between the pin and the two irons would make it so much easier to set up as it wouldnt need a perfect fit in the body that might suffer from changes in humidity. I assume what gives japanese planes their good performance compared to european planes is the thick iron and not how its bedded in the body.

Great video thanks.

That seems like a good method for the outside surface. I’m assuming that the counterpart for the inside is some sort of grit, compound or polish infused matching dowel or other wooden object? Or do you simply do the inside with a flexible strop?

well done

Everyone keeps mentioning waterstones. Are the for flattening Japanese water stones or sharpening my knives?? Or does it matter??

where did you buy the tool

Is the voice bit of this video broken

I generally use western chisels, oils stones and hollow grind on bevel. I like hollow grind for ease of touch up sharpening. I do have a set of nice japanese chisels (not used much as yet), sharpening bevel on the flat. I would like to ask whether you think i can hollow grind the bevel on these, or is that a big no-no?

Fantastic running commentary!

Well, in this learning journey with the pull style planes, I have discovered that the irons taper not only in thickness, but also in width. That would make it difficult to line up the plane blade in any jig. I do 'rough' out my angles first on a slow speed grinder that I use for my turning tools, and a 80 grit CBN wheel. It still seems to be that I will need to set the blade in the plane body and then see how far out of square it is to the opening and the plane body.....

Saw one video about this process, and the carpenter had a specialized machine for doing this. Really ingenious thing. If I was going to make one, I would take one of those hammers, and drill through the end of the handle and put it on a pivot point, Then it would be easier to control the strikes.

台ならしし、押す方がなじみがあるでしょうね！

you didn't show the other end.

wow...... very creative. From simple tools you can produce really good chopsticks, thank you for sharing your knowledge

So Japanese blades do not get a secondary bevel?