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Dash
United States
Приєднався 17 жов 2011
What's goodie! My name is Rish and I just get stuff done. My channel has a wide range of things to see. I'm sure you can find something relatable on my channel, so what are you waiting for? Take a look. Share for more content!
2014 Chevy Sonic thermostat Housing Swap
2014 Chevy Sonic Thermostat Housing Swap
#chevy #sonic #coolant
Be aware that the top plastic clip and housing is VERY fragile.
Like, Share and Sub for more!
#chevy #sonic #coolant
Be aware that the top plastic clip and housing is VERY fragile.
Like, Share and Sub for more!
Переглядів: 216
Відео
2023 Honda Navi Exhaust Upgrade #navi #exhaust
Переглядів 9326 місяців тому
2023 Honda Navi Exhaust Upgrade What's up everyone! Hope you enjoyed the video. Here is a link to the Honda Navi Parts at RC, that you see in the video. www.recklesscustomspnw.com/category/honda-navi-110 Like, Share and sub!
2014 Honda Accord 4cyl Coolant Crossover O-Ring Replacement
Переглядів 65711 місяців тому
2014 Honda Accord 4cyl Coolant Crossover O-Ring Replacement #diy #honda #coolant This is a 2.4 Earth Dreams engine. the orings for the v6 are completely different. I have gotten a couple of these that are installed incorrectly - Its best to use some form of lubricant to cover the o-ring prior to installation to help with a nice seal. Enjoy the video! Like, Share and sub for more content!
Toro Grandstand Throttle Cable Replacement
Переглядів 474Рік тому
Toro Grandstand Throttle Cable Replacement #toro #grandstand #throttle In this video we will be replacing a throttle cable for a Grandstand mower. Thing is a beast! Quick and painless - LIKE SHARE AND SUB!
07-13 Chevy Avalanche(truck) shock replacement
Переглядів 8 тис.Рік тому
07-13 Chevy Avalanche(truck) shock replacement
2010 GMC Yukon 1500 XL Fuel Strap Replacement
Переглядів 576Рік тому
2010 GMC Yukon 1500 XL Fuel Strap Replacement
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear Brake replacement
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear Brake replacement
2012 Toyota Camry Alternator Swap - 4cyl
Переглядів 9 тис.Рік тому
2012 Toyota Camry Alternator Swap - 4cyl
How to use Motor Medic's - Motor Flush
Переглядів 1,5 тис.2 роки тому
How to use Motor Medic's - Motor Flush
08 Acura RDX Starter/Battery Replacement
Переглядів 2,2 тис.2 роки тому
08 Acura RDX Starter/Battery Replacement
07-15 Mercedes Benz C300 - Key Fob Battery Replacement
Переглядів 832 роки тому
07-15 Mercedes Benz C300 - Key Fob Battery Replacement
05 Nissan Altima - Resistor Replacement
Переглядів 3,1 тис.3 роки тому
05 Nissan Altima - Resistor Replacement
Mercedes benz c300 - Battery and LED DRL replacement
Переглядів 4393 роки тому
Mercedes benz c300 - Battery and LED DRL replacement
Mercedes Benz C300 - Brake light Replacement
Переглядів 15 тис.3 роки тому
Mercedes Benz C300 - Brake light Replacement
2013-2017 Honda Accord 2.4 Valve Cover Gasket Swap
Переглядів 1,5 тис.3 роки тому
2013-2017 Honda Accord 2.4 Valve Cover Gasket Swap
2008 Nissan Altima 3.5L - Alternator Replacement
Переглядів 25 тис.3 роки тому
2008 Nissan Altima 3.5L - Alternator Replacement
08 Nissan Altima 3.5 - Rear O2 Sensor swap (Bank 1 sensor 1)
Переглядів 10 тис.3 роки тому
08 Nissan Altima 3.5 - Rear O2 Sensor swap (Bank 1 sensor 1)
03 Chevy Silverado 2wd front wheel hub swap
Переглядів 16 тис.3 роки тому
03 Chevy Silverado 2wd front wheel hub swap
03 Chevy Silverado Blower Resistor Replacement
Переглядів 863 роки тому
03 Chevy Silverado Blower Resistor Replacement
04 Infiniti QX56 Fuel pump replacement
Переглядів 4,4 тис.3 роки тому
04 Infiniti QX56 Fuel pump replacement
2010 Honda Accord EGR cleaning/replacement
Переглядів 8 тис.3 роки тому
2010 Honda Accord EGR cleaning/replacement
How to change the spark plugs - 08 Nissan Altima - 3.5
Переглядів 24 тис.3 роки тому
How to change the spark plugs - 08 Nissan Altima - 3.5
Power Steering Reservoir replacement - 08 Altima
Переглядів 2,7 тис.3 роки тому
Power Steering Reservoir replacement - 08 Altima
2014 Jetta TDI - thermostat.... WHY VW
Переглядів 23 тис.3 роки тому
2014 Jetta TDI - thermostat.... WHY VW
Why is there oil on the intercooler isn’t that bad since its going straight to the catalytic converter ?
This is normal and no it isn’t going to your cats, it’s solely for air coming in. Having oil(small amount) is normal. That is where an air oil separator comes in handy to help with blow by
All these videos spending 5 minutes to explain this to you and here you are going straight to the point! Amazing video !
Thank you! Glad you were able to get something out of it
Left loose ,right tight...
Not tight enough
I'm sure that $30-40 chinesium hub bearing will last at least 3 months. But it saved you so much money. Then you get to do it all over again.
Contrary to belief, these parts actually last a while. The customer has had this truck now for, 2 years. No issues. Don’t believe what you hear… or always take with a grain of salt. Hope this helps you save a buck next time. Happy holidays
@@dashautorepair Too many stories all over UA-cam of people saving money buying chi-comm cheapo bearings and failing soon. I'll always buy a highly rated name. But if that works for you, ok. For me, if it is a component that can put me on the side of the road (like this) , I'm not going to gamble.
Would this work for a 2005 STS?
Unfortunately, no. Two different interfaces
@ Unfortunate 😭 thank you for the quick response
You must have small hands and there is a 10mm on backside of light.
Yep, whopper hands Hope this helps
These things are begging for an air to water intercooler.
Bro literally, that would literally open these bad boys up for more
Pop the hood open why didn't I think of that first
Bro you’d be surprised lol
“My unit has no nut”. lol. Great video. Gonna go do this on my rdx. Thanks for making it.
Thanks for the love! Glad it helped
Can you put the link of the product? I can't find it in the website.
As a girl who’s 21 w very lil to no knowledge would I be able to do this or should I not bother and have someone else do it 😭?
While I applaud the motivation to do it alone, it may be wise just have someone near to help. Just remember to take your time and good luck!
I like to know why you replaced the thermostat?
It overheated so it was time to replace.
Just changed the reservoir in mine because it was leaking and now it’s hard to turn. The same procedure was done and now the wheel is hard to turn. It makes no sense as to why it’s hard.
Hardest part is getting the belt back on
At times yes, just make sure you get a nice long wrench and maybe another wrench on it to help with tension. Good luck!
Can i have the link for the pipe?
Its in the description of the video - www.recklesscustomspnw.com/category/honda-navi-110
Thanks. Just changed the alternator. Saved me a couple humdred on having a mechanic do it.
Love it! Glad the video was able to help you out!
You don't need to remove the bumper to remove the alternator. If you don't know how to do the job don't do a video explaining how to do do it.
There are ten ways to do this job. this is the way I found. If you do not like it. move on and continue you're day. You're two cents is worthless.... in a community where we are here to help.
@dashautorepair if you don't know the right way so don't try to do a video explaining the incorrect way. There is one right way not 10.
Beg to differ my friend, I've been doing this for 25 years.... If you are stuck doing something one way... I feel sorry for you. That's a very black n white way of thinking. Shall we continue arguing over something so silly?
@dashautorepair there are tons of auto repair shop in the market, they said they are a mechanic just because they can loose one bolt. If you said you have 25 years doing this why you complicate your life removing parts for nothing.
Shoot, this method is far superior then most on YT. I could have for sure left the bumper cover on, but it takes 4 minutes to remove. I agree, there are alot of thieves out there saying they can do something when they cant... which is why my clients come to me. Most don't care how its done, as long as its done. So while this method might be a waste in some folks eyes... it works. Good luck out there brother. Thanks for chiming in...
U removed so much unnecessary stuff its unreal ur talking bout not doing more work than u need to but u did anyways 😅 coulda dropped subframe dropped ac compressor an it comes out from the bottom coulda left the fan bumper crash bar headlight an all the other stuff on there lmfao
Yep, there’s ten ways to do one thing but I choose this way. Removing rust belt subframes are fun my friend if you didn’t know.. I chose the route the viewers would be able to work with.. Are you doing okay?
First time I've seen someone not use a sparkplug socket in order to install and remove that easily. You were adamant about being delicate with the threads and that's where my other first came from this video and that was to see somebody using impact to put the plastic coils back on 🤦
Resourceful. Was the job completed? Yes. All that counts. Everyone uses an impact for the threads that dont matter... taps a valve cover is much easier than tapping a head... I dont have a bendable extension... I'm cheap. Thanks for taking the time today to tell us about yourself.
Replaced mine today with 188,000 on it. Went well but the 14mm lower bolt fought me from about halfway in to the finish line.I won the fight !!
Congrats brother! Glad the video was able to help out!
Just had my actuator replaced and the code still popped up. Im sad. Dealership quoted my 9,000$ for a new turbo. My car is not worth that much
Goodness, at that point I would call a local junkyard or scour the web for something to swap it out with, preferably the exact same so the stock tune isnt altered. 9k is INSANE!
What shocks are these ?
the HD TRQ ebay shocks. I pull trailers behind it with alot of crap inside, never had any issues with them since install.
I will replace mine tomorrow
Good luck!
@@dashautorepair all done....thank you
Nice sounding exhaust!
Thanks! It does sound pretty good
so i had tried taking the tire off couldn’t do it that way ended up doing it just like you , is the code supposed to go away right away or do you have to drive it for a wile for it to go away ?
Typically its right away but sometimes, it may take a 10 minute drive. Good luck!
Great video. I believe that is what's wrong with mine. Slowly accelerate up to highway speed and it drives ok but try to pass another vehicle or drive more aggressively and the acceleration cuts out and feels like the traction control interrupted . Mainly relieved of the inside access panel instead of lowering the tank.
Yes, its definitely a blessing with it being accessible. However, my issue ended up being a BCM Module.
Don’t never ever buy this stupid car
While it wont seem suitable for most, they ARE indeed semi-reliable, easy to work on AND Cheap. In this economy... its not a bad car. Just my 2 cents.
Yea the altima is still a reliable car they just don't work well with remanufactured alternators and the cvt transmission is a hit or miss but I agree in this economy a altima has gotten many people from point a to point b
@@dashautorepair Easy to work on he says, after having removed the whole front end to change the alternator
@@EPiCxPS3yep takes like 15 minutes… easy
It’s amazing how any idiot can make a UA-cam video you can addict yourself all the time you need a torque wrench But tight is tight and that muffler is junk sounds like shit. It looks like a cob job way to hit some bumps in that bolt for the bracket takes out the tire. Yoshira is the best exhaust.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it! More coming soon
Sounds great! Thanks for taking the time to make a video. Great tips.
Thanks! 🙏🏻
My 2010 sentra wont blow ac or heat at all.but ac compressor is working.could this be the issue? What exactly were your symptoms? No functioning of any of the controls? Also did this fix your problem? Thanks alot man.
Normally with your description, the resistor would fix the problem. However, in my case it was a bad blower motor. Which is VERY fun to replace. Good luck!
@@dashautorepair oh ok.thank you so much.
Got one in a trade. Previous owner replaced the resistor, still inoperative when I got it, pulled the blower motor, definitely bad, 1/2 inch of play in ft bearing, replaced motor, still inop. Pulled the plug, getting voltage at motor, pulled the resistor, tried the old one for giggles. It accidently touched the heat sinc and started working, only high speed. If you have a motor that is shorting out, replacing the resistor will only burn up the electronics in the new one.
I have a 2011 Nissan Sentra and all of the sudden the AC well the fan was stuck on high it would not turn down and it would not turn off unless I turn the car off or pull the fuse out. The AC and heat still work just the blower was wide open the whole time. And then of course because of that being stuck on high the fan started making a noise which I figured it was starting to get worn out and eventually it just stopped altogether. So I'm going to need a resistor and a blower motor correct?
I live in Southern Tennessee and today the temperature is supposed to be 98 I've been riding around for a month with my windows down I deliver groceries for a living these people can drink their damn ice cream by the time I get to their house
This shit is not that simple smfh setup
Tbh it is quite annoying to finagle
😂 how long did that work out for
Around a week lol.
Bwooodaboop. Bwooodaboop. Thats all i needed 😂
Had too… lol
Can anyone recommend a good brand ?
Really any are ok, most remanufactured alternators come with a lifetime warranty. It’s such a quick job that it isn’t too much of a hassle to swap if needed.
Nah my car if the car key is even touching that spot it starts the noise me personally I use my car speakers to listen music but everytime I open the driver door it's starts so annoying
All the time lol
Why would I ever leave my keys in my car?
Just change the radio it stop making the sound
every time, if I'm just sitting in the truck or something waiting on to pick up someone, the key is like that, if I'm about to get out of the truck to unload groceries, key is like that so I don't gotta hear it though whole time
Or you could just pull the chime module out of the vehicle
It the radio
I live in Memphis, so no.
N end up locking them in there haha
I don't leave the risk of my vehicle being stolen, that's just me.
I do it is always better that dinging botheres me
Or you just don't buy a chevy
Really?
Bro. Use elbow grease instead of strip science. Hopefully you used new hardware to mount everything back…
So it would read a quart over the full mark? On the oil dip stick once u add the engine flush?
Yes, you would then check the oil for defects and change it regardless. It’s is bad coming out in the drip pan than I would for sure remove the oil pan and clean it. You don’t want metal Shavings navigating around components. Good luck!
You don't need to take all of that off for the strut change btw.
I appreciate the feedback!
Removing all that isn't really necessary. I didn't want to put it on jack stands, so working from the top, I could see the wire harness and go by feel. It's very tight back there so if you have slightly bigger forearms, manipulating a breaker bar will be challenging. You can't fit a 22mm deep socket onto the sensor while it is still attached to the breaker. There isn't enough clearance due to the firewall. Plus with the various hoses and engine block, it's pretty tough. You have to get the socket on first then see if you can get a short (6" to 10") 3/8 ratchet attached. With that you can rotate it a little at a time until gets in the right position to fit onto the socket. A breaker bar may be too tough to move around to get the stub and the square hole of the socket lined up. I managed to get sensor loose after trying all kinds of ways that just weren't working. I drove the car around to get the engine hot, then as it was cooling, got some Blaster Penetrating spray on the sensor where the threads are under the sensor flange, and after about 20 or so minutes, it loosened up with hardly any effort. All my previous attempts failed. Even when I used the Blaster. I think this time, as the metal contracted while cooling, it allowed the Blaster to to do its job. It's just a theory. It's such a tight space, you can't the can in to get the spray nozzle to reach the sensor. I had to use some thin clear tubing that was cut long enough to reach the sensor, then slide the Blaster straw into the tubing and spray in small amounts with shorts bursts otherwise it backs up into the tubing and makes a mess. Let the Blaster drip onto the sensor. Spraying it into a small container and using a syringe would also work if you don't drop it behind the engine and lose it. . Now that it's loose, the next challenge is disconnecting the harness. I can't really see it so I have to go by feel.
Glad it worked out for you man! Removing all of what I did in the video made the situation easier for me. Thats what we all need to take in from each youtube video, what may work for one guy may not work for the next. However, I'm glad it all worked out for you in the way you found. Its fun! The reward factor when its all said and done is worth the money saved. CHEERS
@@dashautorepair Well I'm still fighting with the connector. Whoever designed that type should be fired. I looked at the front O2 sensor to get an idea of how it disconnects and pressing a tab while pulling on a plug is just plain dumb. It's hard to with two hands. I can sort of do the front one with one hand but I have to really jiggle it hard. There is no room in the back for all that with everything packed back there. Some kind of flip lock like type used inside computers would be easier. Just lift a flap that snaps to keep the connectors in place and pull them apart; simple. I'm really trying to avoid dismantling the throttle body and removing that intake plenum but I may have to. I have until next May to change it That's when I have to get it smogged. I know I'm burning more gas but hopefully it's not causing some other cascade of problems.