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@@circyit8593 You’re welcome! As for adding loft to a plastic fancy face insert, that’s a tough one. I think a professional restorer like John Henry Williams could figure out how to do that while keeping the original insert, but I’m not aware of how to do it. If it were my club and I really wanted to play it with extra loft, I’d probably replace the current fancy face insert with a different wood or even hard leather insert and then add the loft. That would obviously ruin it’s current fancy face good looks and resale value, but that would be the trade off I’d consider if it played really well for me and just needed a few more degrees to be my favorite club off the tee.

@@skoronesa1 Good idea - thanks for the suggestion! And yeah, copper would look sharp. For a brief period of time, Hillerich and Bradsby used copper for the cap on their top of the line irons. I may have seen one of an old MacGregor iron once, too. They definitely look more higher end and fancier than the standard aluminum caps you find on economy line clubs.

@@alancolley4035 I’m going back next April to play it again - really looking forward to it!

@@sadie6339 😂 We’re still asking ourselves that to this day! That was the yardage according to the scorecard, but they were doing some work on the course when we played and I’m thinking we had an old card that didn’t reflect that hole changing from a par 4 to a 5. Definitely felt long to us.

@@jimw6903 Thanks, Jim - great tip!

@@neilhelsper thanks, Neil! And yeah - I have started playing my modern clubs again after a 3-year hiatus. They’re not that “modern” though - irons are early 90s forged Mizuno MP-9 and I use a Titleist 910 hybrid off the tee.

Hey, Barry! Thanks for tuning in

Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it. We were pleasantly surprised to find such a fun gem of a course for gutty golf so near to the course we play our featherie golf event each year (Hillcrest Golf Center in Washington, IL)

Thanks! The greens there are usually quicker, which I like, because they run true, too. The rain before and during the round was enough to slow them down more than I expected.

@@s.mcchristy9704 Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it! When you replace a shaft, it’s pretty common that the pinholes on the head won’t match the clubhead and that’s what necessitates drilling the new hole. Those hole locations can vary from maker to maker and even differ among those made by the same maker sometimes. That said, I try to avoid instances where the new hole is right next to the old one, which will end up creating a larger hole in the same area of the cone. Usually, I’ll be able to drill the new hole at least a couple mm away from the old one and all is well. But yeah - I’ve had experiences where the shaft is noticeably weaker because of a pinhole in the cone that’s too large.

Sure - I’m happy to take a look. Send some pics to me at thehickoryhacker at gmail.

Thanks for watching! I haven’t done any videos on that yet but I have run into a few clubs with that issue. None of them were bad enough that I wasn’t able to replace the shaft and work with it as-is. Unless it’s a club you really want to play, I’d probably just avoid trying to work with a hosel that was so bad that it required extensive reshaping.

Yeah, I’ve run into this problem even after making sure the mold is clean. As far as that goes, I make sure to give the inside of each mold a couple quick scrubs with 000 steel wool just to make sure there isn’t any debris or surface rust in the mold pattern. Make sure you blow it out, too, so that you clear out any steel wool particles. Even after all of that, though. I still get balls occasionally that have what looks like rust or dirt where the logo was sanded off. It doesn’t happen every time so I’m not sure what the variable is that causes it. Has to be something about the surlyn cover that’s been sanded because it only shows up where the logo once was. I wish I had a clear solution but it doesn’t happen every time and I haven’t pinpointed the cause. If it’s any consolation, I’ve played McIntyre balls that will show this same rusty/dirty pattern around the equator of the ball after a round or two. Seems related to our issue, and I think it’s gotta be because of something that happens with the surlyn when it’s sanded.

@@TheHickoryHacker​​⁠i’ve been experimenting a lot and i found that if i put the mold in and leave it in while my toaster over preheats and then set the time to 4 minutes i get an almost perfect ball and i can finished a ball in around 15 minutes by cooling the mold in cold water from my sink. I think leaving ball in longer can contribute to the amount of rust that sticks to the ball.

That’s interesting because my mold doesn’t have any markings that appear on the ball itself. What i meant by markings was on the outside of the mold.

Ah, gotcha. My mold doesn’t have any markings on the outside or inside except for the mesh pattern.

@@TheHickoryHacker very interesting

The short answer is yes - if the head is tight and doesn’t budge, it’ll probably be okay to hit. Keep a close eye on it, though. As you play it, ball strikes may start to loosen up whatever was keeping it tight. I’d check it after every shot and see if you can notice any movement. Another thing I’ll mention is that I’ve run into many clubs where the head won’t budge after removing the pin. What I do is first use a wooden mallet and strike it as hard as I can on the top line of the head to knock it loose. If a few blows don’t move it, I’ll take a heat gun on a low setting and warm up the hosel of the club where it meets the shaft. Be careful but to char the shaft. Heat it for a bit then try the mallet again and repeat the process until it comes off. This is the way to remove a head that’s already been reset with epoxy, which yours may be.

@@TheHickoryHacker this is very helpful! thank you!

Absolutely! Feel free to drop me a line at thehickoryhacker@gmail.com. Dick is a great guy and an excellent ambassador for the hickory game. I’ve really enjoyed my rounds with him. Enjoy Mt. Washington! I didn’t play great that day but I loved the course and can’t wait to go back.

@@infomineco7111 Thanks for the tip - I’ll try that some time!

@@finnblanck7335 Will do - thanks! We were there about a week before the close of season as guests of Andy, the pro there, and didn’t know caddies were available.

Please email me a few photos and I’ll take a look: thehickoryhacker@gmail.com

Hi, Ingrid - thanks for reaching out! Please email me a few photos of your clubs with the markings and I’ll take a look and assess: thehickoryhacker@gmail.com

Very nice round! Didn’t get a chance to play Royal Dornoch yet but Brora is definitely one of those courses that makes you want to figure out how to get back to it as soon as your round is over.

Hi, Jay! Great question. You want to use a high stress hide glue for resetting brassie shafts, which is what was used originally. I like the 315 gram strength granules sold by BT&C but you can find smaller quantities in other brands on Amazon. This will allow you to use steam to remove the shaft in the future in case you need to. While I recommend using epoxy for iron head resets, don’t use epoxy for brassie shafts. The heat required to loosen the epoxy will char the wood first. I’ll be doing a video on resetting brassie shafts with hide glue soon.

Hey, Jeremy - welcome to the channel! This round was three years ago when I first started experimenting with the single-plane swing. I’ve since worked with a single-plane coach in Georgia and my swing has changed quite a bit since this round. I invite you to watch a more recent course vlog if you’d like to see my current swing.

My pleasure, Bill - glad you enjoyed it! It was fun reliving our round through editing the video.

My pleasure, Scott - thanks for watching! And yeah, it’s hard to focus on golf in Scotland sometimes because the views demand your attention.

@@TsizzK1 My pleasure! Thanks for watching and happy you enjoyed it.

😂

Unfortunately, there's not. Sometimes if you have a head that's already been removed from the same maker and you line that club up with the one you're trying to remove, it may be in the same spot, but even heads made by the same makers were inconsistent. The best course of action is to use a jeweler's loupe and look at the area it should be in under different kinds of light. Sometimes, that will be enough to reveal the seam of the pin. Otherwise, I share all of the tips I know in a Hacker Backer video that's only available to paid members of the channel. Anyone interested in becoming a Hacker Backer can do so through Patreon or UA-cam channel membership (details in this video description). Thanks!

I’d like to see and attend more events like The Oddball, where the camaraderie and fellowship is the primary reason for being there and the competition is an after thought. To be honest, I don’t even know where I placed at this year’s Oddball or who ended up winning. My memories are the conversations and shared walks trying to hit good shots with our clubs. I’d be totally satisfied if that’s all a hickory event provided.

Nice! That was the windiest round I’ve ever played. Even windier than my trip to Scotland!

Glad you’re here! Welcome! Feel free to reach out with any hickory golf questions if they come up.

Yep, totally valid argument and I agree. I had plans to join you guys at Sewanee this year but my wife’s sister’s graduation from high school was the same weekend. Hopefully, I’ll make it down there next year - looks like an absolute blast and the kind of event I’d want to attend every year. I haven’t been to a USHO yet, but I have played in some serious competitive events where the atmosphere is different based on the fact that many players are there with the hopes of winning. Specifically, I’m thinking of the 2021 Florida State Hickory Open. It was a great event at a fun course (Sara Bay C.C.), but the atmosphere of playing in an event like that wasn’t as fun for me, as say, The Oddball feathery event the Lane’s host. At the FSHO, you could feel the stress level among the groups I played in, especially when shots went awry, and it wasn’t my cup of tea. I’m already hard enough on myself as it is when I play - I don’t need any further encouragement in that direction! 😂 As the premier competitive event on the hickory calendar each year, I expect the USHO to be like the FSHO, and even more so. It should be the ultimate test of skill and ability to handle that stress. I fully recognize that stress is the fuel many competitive players need and enjoy. That’s why I’m in favor of bringing back the SoHG’s Order of Merit, which formalized the competitive aspect of hickory golf and further incentivized winning tough events. I’d like to see the SoHG focus its efforts on expanding interest in hickory golf by emphasizing and further formalizing the competitive side. As I said in the video, the best way to elevate the hickory game in the golf world is to show just how good you can play with these old clubs. I find my enjoyment with hickory golf in different ways, but that just demonstrates there are multiple ways to enjoy our game.

Hey, guys! Thanks for watching and keeping up with the channel! I just started going through the footage of our round and was happy to see that I did, in fact, get some nice footage of the dramatics on the 15th green. Looking forward to putting that one together later this summer.

@@TheHickoryHacker That’s great news. We will keep an eye out for it.

Ideally, the straighter they are the more consistent they’ll play, but the bends you mention may not be an issue once you try playing them. If I’m picturing the bend correctly, it’ll put your hands ahead of the ball at address, which may encourage a good fundamental swing that compresses the ball. If you get a lot of erratic and inconsistent strikes with it, though, I’d recommend trying to straighten it.

@@TheHickoryHacker It’s not drastic enough to put my hands ahead of the ball but it is that type of bend. I’ve taken one hit with it (not at the course, we have a field behind our house) and first impressions are good, solid ball strike anyway lol

@@FennixGamingYT Great! Then yeah - I wouldn’t worry about it until you start seeing consistent miss-hits. You can also try straightening it a bit by hand by bracing the butt end of the club against something sturdy and slowly bending the shaft past straight a bit, holding it a few seconds then slowly releasing. Repeat this several times or until you start to see it straighten out. If it’s too stiff to budge or you start to sense the shaft isn’t responding well to bending, stop. It could either be too dry inside to do anything about and then you just play it until it breaks. My hunch, though, is that if it was pliable enough to bend into its current position, it’s probably still pliable to bend back toward straight. A shaft that’s still lively will respond well to this straightening test and if you do it frequently enough, you’ll start to give the fibers new memory to stay straighter. Walter Hagen talks about bending his shafts straight like this doing a round in between shots.

@@TheHickoryHacker They still have plenty of flexibility so I’ll definitely give it a try! Even the most bent of the set easily bends back to straight without much effort. A lot of the shafts do have somewhat of a “St. Andrews Bend” though, I assume leave that alone? I know that isn’t treated the same as a sideways bend.

@@FennixGamingYT The St. Andrews bend is really only useful in putters. If you can, I’d try to straighten those out more and make that bend less pronounced. I’d also avoid buying clubs from that seller again. I don’t know who it is, but selling clubs with heads that are reset for play but with shaft bends like you’re describing is doing folks a disservice.

Elmer played collegiate golf at Emory, I believe. And yeah - he strikes the ball well no matter what era of club he’s swinging.

Thanks, Durel! This one was a lot of fun to make. Would love to film one with you sometime, too.

@@TheHickoryHacker Would absolutely love to, pal!

Yeah, I’ve been sitting on that footage for too long. I’ll try to get it up on the channel soon!

Thank you!

Hi, Brad! Glad you’re enjoying them - thanks for watching! My Walker trolley is the Cape 1.5 with inflatable whitewalls. Looks like it’s sold out right now, but I love it and highly recommend it: walkertrolleys.com/products/walker-trolley

@@TheHickoryHacker Do you know if the discount code for the S&J bag is still being honored?

Yes! Use code HICKORYHACKER24

Thanks, Brad! Hoping you and I will have an opportunity to film one together later this summer.

Not necessarily, it just takes a little more patience and elbow grease. You can use 000 steel wool and water to scrub off the surface rust, which a good way to control how much patina you’re removing. If you’re careful to keep the wood from getting wet, you can also stand the club in vinegar for a good soak, but you’ll want to make sure that the metal is fully submerged otherwise you’ll get a vinegar ring where the club is out of the water. Obviously, it’s hard to make sure the entire head is submerged and not the wood shaft, so that’s a tougher way to do it. I’m usually only doing rust removal to clubs I’m planning on playing, though, so I always remove the head anyway for epoxy reset.

Thanks, Greg! And yeah - you would have made a good fourth. Next time!