I’ve tried this…it works….very well. But, you need to clean the comp thoroughly FIRST so that the moly lube is adhering to and protecting bare metal and not a buildup of carbon/lead/copper etc. start with a clean comp and this moly lube will work wonders.
A product called Never Seize will do the same thing. It puts a protective coating on the metal that withstands high temperatures. Silver or copper never seize.
Interesting. Have you ever tried it? I use Never Seize all the time on nuts and bolts, but this product never dries. My fear is that after a few shots the Never Seize will be blown off and the protection would be lost. Let me know if you have tried it.
I use different moly lubricants on tons of different firearms and their muzzle attachments! I've found that if you take and completely remove all grease, oil and fouling using a semi-strong degreaser to where the metal is bone dry, then take either a butane torch or even a hairdryer to the area where you plan on lubricating. This opens the poors and microscopic imperfections in the metal allowing the moly to penetrate even deeper giving a much more uniform coating that will last forever and ever so long as you clean and reapply after cleaning. You don't have to get the metal red hot but you definitely want it right around the point where it's too hot to touch. The second you remove the heat source immediately apply a liberal coating of the moly lubricant. If some flashes off from the heat that's perfectly fine. This almost acts like a quenching process for the metal. Once first applied just let it sit to cool to room temperature and then add one last final coating. The cleaning process even easier. I now do this method to all my brand new firearms. The major points of friction will recieve Spec76 lubricant while all other metal surfaces recieve the moly which makes cleaning child's play. I've actually had a base heat treated coat of moly last for over 5k rounds inside one of my AR upper receivers until the point of which I had to use some kind of solvent to remove any kind of fouling. Up until that point I was able to litteraly take a dry patch to the surface to be perfectly clean.
Dude ……stainless steel is exceedingly non porous until you get down to a microscopic level. And at that level, it’s doubtful any type of liquid is going to seep into pores of microscopic size. Moreover, the pores that do exist SHRINK when you apply heat. It’s “pores” NOT “pores.” Research before posting useless info.
Mike, I just cleaned my comp yesterday after firing about 100 pure lead handloads, and big chunks of lead came out with just a dental pick. Normally that would have taken me over 30 minutes with a lot of scraping and swearing involved. Try it, you'll like it. Just make sure you put on 3 heavy coats, letting it dry about 10 minutes between coats.
I do have an ultrasonic and yes, I have tried it. Mine is a special case because I shoot lead bullets that are not plated or jacketed, so the lead welds itself to the comp. With the moly coat in between it doesn't stick anymore. If I shoot plated bullets I will just put it in the ultrasonic. I use a cleaner that I saw on UA-cam that is a 50/50 mix of vinegar and peroxide. It works really well but I'm told the fumes are poisonous, and the stuff will burn your skin. When you are done you need to neutralize the acid that was created by dunking the comp in a bath of baking soda and water for about 5 minutes. I'll send you a link to the video in few minutes. The best way to do this is to fill the tub half way with water, then find a GLASS jar a little bit bigger than the comp, and fill that with the solution and put it in the tub. It works just as well as filling the whole tub and you don't use as much as the nasty stuff.
@@CompShooter54 I also use the ultrasonic cleaner. I might try this new technique if the way I am doing it doesn't work (my compensator hasn't arrived yet for me to get dirty.) But I will do some trials, first, using nothing to coat the compensator and shoot it, and then use Slip2000 carbon killer in an ultrasonic cleaner to see how well it cleans. I'll try the same tests after each round of many shoots with Slip2000 ultrasonic cleaner too and with the Lucas one I have. If nothing is working, then I'll try that link you sent. I'll also play around with coating the compensator with the molylube that I have, even though I'm not shooting lead casted bullets and see how that works.
I have, many times, and different methods without success. Even if it worked for me, it takes a long time, is messy, and the results vary from lot to lot. Not only that, but you have to resize them after coating because of the thickness increase. I use Liquid Alox because I can do 500 in 5 minutes and my bore is spotlessly clean after shooting 100's of rounds.
@@CountryBoyShane Agreed, they absolutely get packed. But by putting a barrier between the steel and the lead it comes out in chunks with a dental pick. At least with my Alox coated bullets. So how do you get the lead out of yours? I'm always open to ne ideas.
I do, and I get huge chunks out using just a small screwdriver. It works especially well when I use cast lead bullets. I will video the next cleaning and post it to show how well it works. It may be a while because I don't shoot that gun as much as I used to.
Nice, hope you get to shoot it soon. My P365xl spectre comp is coming in a couple of days I will be coating the comp day one thank you for making this video.
@@CompShooter54 I did this with a P365 X Macro Comp, and Keltec CP-33 equipped with hilariously long 3" 8 slotted compensator. First slot was caked as expected, I scraped the lead fouling out easily with small screw driver. Rest was just a wipe down, no notable build up at all.
I’ve tried this…it works….very well. But, you need to clean the comp thoroughly FIRST so that the moly lube is adhering to and protecting bare metal and not a buildup of carbon/lead/copper etc. start with a clean comp and this moly lube will work wonders.
A product called Never Seize will do the same thing. It puts a protective coating on the metal that withstands high temperatures. Silver or copper never seize.
Interesting. Have you ever tried it? I use Never Seize all the time on nuts and bolts, but this product never dries. My fear is that after a few shots the Never Seize will be blown off and the protection would be lost. Let me know if you have tried it.
Thank you for the idea.
I use different moly lubricants on tons of different firearms and their muzzle attachments! I've found that if you take and completely remove all grease, oil and fouling using a semi-strong degreaser to where the metal is bone dry, then take either a butane torch or even a hairdryer to the area where you plan on lubricating. This opens the poors and microscopic imperfections in the metal allowing the moly to penetrate even deeper giving a much more uniform coating that will last forever and ever so long as you clean and reapply after cleaning.
You don't have to get the metal red hot but you definitely want it right around the point where it's too hot to touch. The second you remove the heat source immediately apply a liberal coating of the moly lubricant. If some flashes off from the heat that's perfectly fine. This almost acts like a quenching process for the metal. Once first applied just let it sit to cool to room temperature and then add one last final coating. The cleaning process even easier. I now do this method to all my brand new firearms. The major points of friction will recieve Spec76 lubricant while all other metal surfaces recieve the moly which makes cleaning child's play. I've actually had a base heat treated coat of moly last for over 5k rounds inside one of my AR upper receivers until the point of which I had to use some kind of solvent to remove any kind of fouling. Up until that point I was able to litteraly take a dry patch to the surface to be perfectly clean.
Dude ……stainless steel is exceedingly non porous until you get down to a microscopic level. And at that level, it’s doubtful any type of liquid is going to seep into pores of microscopic size. Moreover, the pores that do exist SHRINK when you apply heat. It’s “pores” NOT “pores.” Research before posting useless info.
Good tip, thank you
Mike, I just cleaned my comp yesterday after firing about 100 pure lead handloads, and big chunks of lead came out with just a dental pick. Normally that would have taken me over 30 minutes with a lot of scraping and swearing involved. Try it, you'll like it. Just make sure you put on 3 heavy coats, letting it dry about 10 minutes between coats.
I will try that on a new compensator I'm getting but have you tried an ultrasonic cleaner to see if it'll clean the comp much faster and easier?
I do have an ultrasonic and yes, I have tried it. Mine is a special case because I shoot lead bullets that are not plated or jacketed, so the lead welds itself to the comp. With the moly coat in between it doesn't stick anymore. If I shoot plated bullets I will just put it in the ultrasonic. I use a cleaner that I saw on UA-cam that is a 50/50 mix of vinegar and peroxide. It works really well but I'm told the fumes are poisonous, and the stuff will burn your skin. When you are done you need to neutralize the acid that was created by dunking the comp in a bath of baking soda and water for about 5 minutes. I'll send you a link to the video in few minutes. The best way to do this is to fill the tub half way with water, then find a GLASS jar a little bit bigger than the comp, and fill that with the solution and put it in the tub. It works just as well as filling the whole tub and you don't use as much as the nasty stuff.
Link to the ultrasonic solution.
ua-cam.com/video/vbkmCd9XwYU/v-deo.html
@@CompShooter54 I also use the ultrasonic cleaner. I might try this new technique if the way I am doing it doesn't work (my compensator hasn't arrived yet for me to get dirty.) But I will do some trials, first, using nothing to coat the compensator and shoot it, and then use Slip2000 carbon killer in an ultrasonic cleaner to see how well it cleans. I'll try the same tests after each round of many shoots with Slip2000 ultrasonic cleaner too and with the Lucas one I have. If nothing is working, then I'll try that link you sent. I'll also play around with coating the compensator with the molylube that I have, even though I'm not shooting lead casted bullets and see how that works.
CRC is great
Have you tried powder coating your cast bullets? Ive seen other do it. I haven’t started casting yet.
I have, many times, and different methods without success. Even if it worked for me, it takes a long time, is messy, and the results vary from lot to lot. Not only that, but you have to resize them after coating because of the thickness increase. I use Liquid Alox because I can do 500 in 5 minutes and my bore is spotlessly clean after shooting 100's of rounds.
@@CompShooter54 thank you
I shoot powder coated lead bullets through my Staccato P with a comp, and it makes no difference. Comp gets PACKED with lead!
@@CountryBoyShane Agreed, they absolutely get packed. But by putting a barrier between the steel and the lead it comes out in chunks with a dental pick. At least with my Alox coated bullets. So how do you get the lead out of yours? I'm always open to ne ideas.
Do you still use it?
I do, and I get huge chunks out using just a small screwdriver. It works especially well when I use cast lead bullets. I will video the next cleaning and post it to show how well it works. It may be a while because I don't shoot that gun as much as I used to.
Nice, hope you get to shoot it soon. My P365xl spectre comp is coming in a couple of days I will be coating the comp day one thank you for making this video.
@@ciscomedina9347 Nice, let us know how it works out.
@@CompShooter54 I did this with a P365 X Macro Comp, and Keltec CP-33 equipped with hilariously long 3" 8 slotted compensator. First slot was caked as expected, I scraped the lead fouling out easily with small screw driver. Rest was just a wipe down, no notable build up at all.
@@pawteegal I'm glad someone finally tried it! Glad it worked out for you.