Відео

Yeah, this is normal, mine does it too. Using a speaker protection board is a good idea since it also protects the speaker if a large dc appears on the output.

@@boknoynaruto3824 I think it is not quite normal because the original QUAD 606 amplifier does not have a protection board and almost nothing is heard when turning it on and off.

Thanks, I think I will do that next time as that is easier to do than manually checking for signal clipping on the scope.

This can be done in Series Mode and Independent Mode. Check it here ua-cam.com/channels/99Gqd6vVHy9BG5RB0v9BCw.htmlcommunity?lb=UgkxYohVVLMBbKE-voJd2V5SKcu3c79Qv2Os

@@boknoynaruto3824 thank you! You're giving me a good new!

Both channels of the board is already BTL(Bridge) so I assume you mean to parallel the 2 channels to get PBTL, The description for this board does not mention anything about PBTL support so I don't think the board supports it. If your looking for PBTL board try searching Aliexpress for TPA3255 600W Mono Board. Product link for the TPA3255 PBTL Boards ( I do not own and have not tested any of this boards so I can't vouch for these boards, I'm linking it here to get you started on searching PBTL Boards, buy and use at your own risk - www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006278499955.html? www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001596305459.html? www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007715330301.html?

The probe is clipped on the base and emitter of the power transistor.

Thanks, I might do that once I tested more boards.

The power supply has a single output only and can't be used with amp that requires dual polarity power supply.

Will do soon and I will show where the connections are going. I will try to put the link on the description next time.

This TPA3116D2 board here ua-cam.com/video/xykcxlZJzZA/v-deo.html perform better than this AIYIMA Dual MA12070 160Wx2 board.

The Wondom is a standard 2 channel board and each channel is BTL.

The power supply is already using a CLC filter in the output side enough for power amp use.

Best of luck! and Thank you for dropping by the channel.

Okey din na power supply yon, adjustable pa ang output voltage, mas mura yata ang presyo sa shoppee compara sa aliexpress

hehehe

Kabayan salamat sa pagdaan sa channel natin.

Most of these high power class d amps are full of smd parts and I have not seen any diy kits of these amps. There are some through hole high power class d amps in India Mart maybe try contacting the seller if they are willing to sell diy kits of the amps. They have a youtube channel here ua-cam.com/video/ntPeHT-BqBQ/v-deo.html

@@boknoynaruto3824 Thanks for the info. I can also buy a dual 4 ohm or single 8 ohm sub and use this board bridged

@boknoynaruto3824 Could you do a video repeating this experiment but at 120VAC for NA? See if there's any power difference.

Yeah, can do it but might take me a week or 2 as I got a lot to do at the moment.

This board can really do 1KW at 120V, I got the vid upload in a bit. I recommend to stick a heat sink to the bridge rectifier as it is pulling 10A + from the supply and it is only rated for 3.6A without a heat sink.

CS8673 is a totally different chip and unfortunately can't be replaced with TPA3116 IC.

Hello, Have tested the chip up to ±40V this means the +Vs Signal, +Vs power(+40V) and -Vs Signal, -Vs power(-40V) on this chip can take up to ±40V, fitting this on a circuit with ±20V and ±40V power supplies, what this will do is short the +20V to +40V and the -20V to -40V supply rails this means the ±20V and ±40V supply lines to be connected in parallel, this will probably affect or blow the ±20V rails if it is not rated to take up to +40V but could not see why it would blow the chip up. Do you have the amp section schematic (only the 7294 circuit) for your JVC amp? Thanks

@@boknoynaruto3824 Mine JVC is CA-V808T the PDF is old version not very clear( you know those scan to PDF file black and white), the diagram theory is almost TDA7294 datasheet (year 1996) Figure18: High Efficiency Application Circuit (or Figure20 for new 2020 version datasheet). From the diagram you see, both Vs+-signal use 40v, Vs+-(power) use 20v for low power, if high power need , it activate transistor to let 40v pass thought, between 40v and 20v have Diode D1and D2 BYW98100 to prevent 40v+ short circuit to 20v+ and 20v- short circuit current flow to 40v-. Back to the fake chip, those pin 8 and pin 15 are connected, I bought two units, both show on 50ohm resistance. If connect directly pin8 to -40v and pin 15 to -20v. Huge current will flow from -20v straight to -40v and it will blow in very ugly face. I not dare to use to put it in my HI-FI for replacement, I blow my original chip is another story, because I didn't fully install the whole pieces ( u know the HI-FI inside have alot of sub-board), I thought can test it without installing other related board. Short story is got one board wire need to install to the amplifier board, the wires have Ground connection, without it the TDA7294 just like connected two high voltage 40v+- without ground(center tap 0v). So it blew. Later I found out this type of amp double rail power V+ V-, ground is very important for 0v reference. *The suggested diode BYW98100 on the diagram is not those normal diode, trace to its datasheet stated "Super Fast Recovery Rectifier diodes), I assume it is a very serios part for the so call HI-FI "High Efficiency applicatio circuit" to work, purpose to block the reverse current flow. So follow these proof, the chip design will never let Pin 8 and 15 be connected.

@@boknoynaruto3824 Type at youtube for TDA7294/Tda7293, they shown how the original vs fake different, especially shown original chip PIN15 is open circuit with the heatsink tab mean pin8 which make sense. but those fake one is shorted.

Hello, As I have said this will only parallel the the ±40V and ±20V supply line, this is not gonna do anything to the chip because the +Vs Signal, +Vs power and -Vs Signal, -Vs power pin can already take ±40V. There is a schematic of tda7294 here using ±40V and ±20V supply, if the fake chip is used here it will only parallel the ±40V and ±20V supply line, I still could not see why it would blow the chip up because it can already take ±40V on the +Vs Signal, +Vs power and -Vs Signal, -Vs power pins. tronicspro.com/tda7294-high-efficiency-power-amplifier/ Pin 15 -VS Power is already connected to the Negative supply rail and -VS Signal is also connected to the Negative supply rail so the Tab is also connected to the Negative supply rail via the -VS Signal so it does not matter if 15 pin is connected to the Tab ot not. thanks

@@boknoynaruto3824 Real one PIn15 -vs is not connected to anything, only fake chip PIn15 -vs is connected to tab and pin8. You parallel 40v with 20v meaning it is 20v to 0v, current will flow through it. that is why the circuit put a special diode there. Simply: current flow from -20v pin15 pass through the fake amp cheap to -40v pin 8 then blown. I think you havn't understand what I have written due to my poor language and gramma, or maybe I have edited some part you havn't refresh read through it yet. The end.

Glad it was helpful!

www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005419722688.html?

I only have the NPS306W so unfortunately I can't comment on the other models. The NPS306W voltage adjustment can be displayed onscreen while it is being adjusted but the major drawback of the NPS306W is there is no display of the Current setting of the knob. If the current adjustment knob is set to the middle for example, there is no way to now what is that current limit, maybe we can guess it is half of the max current rating of the psu but that is it (I hope does that make any sense). The current display on the power supply is like an ammeter in series with the load so there will be no display if the load is not pulling any current from the psu. This is where a digital or programmable psu comes in, where the output voltage and current limit can be set and stored in memory before the psu is turned on. The current limit on the NPS306W can also be set manually but it is a pain, we need a DC electronic load to manually set the current limit and it needs to be done every time the current is to be set to something else which is not really practical and if the current adjustment knob is disturbed or turned accidentally then the setting is lost. This is the PSU I use for repair the RD RD6012P, it cost a bit more than the Wanptek though, but the regulator module board itself can be bought seperately if desired.

@@boknoynaruto3824 Thank you

I'll have the board actual power tested soon.

@@boknoynaruto3824 thanks and more likes

Yes the board can only do about 12W per channel before clipping and I really could not say if it will be loud enough for you especially if you like loud music. Connecting amps like this to a car stereo unit is not a straight forward exercise. Amps like this only accepts low level inputs and some car stereo unit will have a low level output or a high level output only or maybe both. A 12V power from the car is very noisy and the amp might need additional filter board to deal with this and maybe a ground loop isolator too. If your new to this maybe it is best to consider a proper car amplifier instead.

@@boknoynaruto3824 Okay, thanks heaps for the extra info! It's a classic car so I don't want a typical head unit. I've got a bluetooth board hidden behind the dash but it drops out at high volume. Cheers! I'll see what I can figure out.

Using Bluetooth would make it a bit more convenient. Check out the wondom BDM8 Bluetooth version, it is a TPA3255 board with built in Bluetooth it is capable of more than 250 watts RMS per channel on 4 ohms load. It needs a 12V to 48V boost converter though which adds to the cost of the setup. I have the BDM8 non Bluetooth board tested here ua-cam.com/video/2NJMLp1aENU/v-deo.html

@@boknoynaruto3824 awesome, thanks for the advice! Ill check it out

This is the power supply www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006257881535.html?

Best of luck!