Відео

Remove the Queen. Go back into the hive 8 days later and remove all the emergency cells. At that point, the hive is hopelessly Queen-less with no way to make a Queen. The hive will then readily accept a cell you give them. The new cell will change the genetics of the hive in about 6 weeks or so.

If I remember right, I had been working hives for a couple hours and my smoker had went out. A small amount of smoke is definitely useful.

I agree. Work with nature, not against it. Nectar is trickling in and the big hives are starting to make white wax again. We will see what develops. Thanks for watching.

Absolutely love the bees. The different colors is just odd paints I had at the time. Most of my boxes are green now.

Glad you like it

You can do several things. You could remove it as a split or leave her there during the flow and add a super above her. After the flow, you can use her to re-queen the bottom box so you have a young Queen going into winter. You could also use her to re-queen a different colony. Lots of options.

@@tonywestsbees6042 how does the colony respond to being directly on top of another? Is the risk of fighting likely? Also how do the bees organise themselves to draw out the supers above and below the 2 broods? Thanks for replying to my message, I have a hive that's pretty busy and I'm half expecting to see swarm cells when I get into it on tomorrow, just wondering what my options are as supers went on not too long ago, if no cells are present I'm thinking of following this method or the 'preemptive' method. All the best.

Actually they do just fine. Queens emerging from a cell is natural for them. If she mates and comes back, she will set up housekeeping and all the bees accept her. The upper box is far enough from the bottom it works fine. Now it is a two Queen system. Be sure to have an upper entrance and use a Queen excluder wherever you do not want brood.

Most of what we pulled looked like that. Lots of Autumn Olive, Honeysuckle and some Blackberry in the mix.

I have noticed that also.

I used an automotive catalyzed body filler that had a fiber filler. Once done, sealed with a couple coats of exterior enamel paint. It worked well. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for the response

We will be extracting Saturday. Looking forward to using it. Huge step up from what we had been using and way past time for this upgrade.

So far, I'm with you. Everyone I have talked to has nothing but praise on these. Thanks for watching.

I saw the monster you got. NICE! I'll be pulling 800 pounds in a week or so. It was time for the upgrade.

I got the big one this week that is just like yours bruce. Took the top off the extractor to lessen the weight. Was ready to roll in about 20 mins even putting the top back on. Now I just have to wait for the nectar to dry in the hives. Getting close though in nebraska.

Thanks

I replied to this but for some reason it is not showing up. You could just drop one on the other and let the bees sort it out but I would just remove the one Queen, paper combine with one sheet of paper with slits in it. No upper entrance is required, they will be combined within a day or two. An active laying Queen is readily accepted by the bees. I would feed them =for a few days. Fed bees are happy bees.

You can do a lot with them. It's just understanding the what and how.

I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Raising Queens is very satisfying.

Thanks. It's a learning curve. I try to shaw all aspects of my apiary.

I leave the relocated brood away from the bottom box for awhile, until it emerges. The brood up top will emerge and join the hive's population moving down thru the boxes. If you have a long flow, you can Demaree a second time or even a partial Demaree, 2 frames of brood. There are no definites. Lots of options.

Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.

Love raising Queens!

Glad you liked it

They may supercede the Queen before winter. Paint anywhere on her head usually effects hormones and the hive can sense this.

@@tonywestsbees6042 oh no shit...is it wrong to mark the queen?

@FUNNYCLIP885 I mark all my Queens. That way you know if there is a queen change and at a glance what the year is. Practice on Drones.

@@tonywestsbees6042 actually i m new to these all things but i really like watching them over since childhood i m not afraid of them i enjoy their company..thats why i got two hives with 6 farme full bees. Yesterday i tried to mark queens cause while inspecting i almost crushed one queen once so i didnot wanted to repeat that again but end up making blunder

@FUNNYCLIP885 it's all a learning process

Increased honey production since the population is much bigger. This year I had two hives that swarmed before I got to them and one hive that superceded the Queen. Those hives only have one surplus medium super on them right now so about 30 or so pounds extra. Those hives that I did Demaree on all have 125 pounds of surplus honey or more each. It's work but well worth it for a small scale producer.

And where they store the honey, on top box or in all the boxes??

I use a single deep box for the brood box. All the other boxes are for honey storage.

Thanks Brandon. So far so good. Grafting a few Queens now. Honey Flow has been decent. Only lost one swarm.

That's part of the learning curve and decisions. How to move frames around moving forward. I'm glad things are working out for you.

I found that a couple coats of paint on the inside stops most of the chewing by the bees. These have their good and bad points. Thanks for watching.

For my area, our main flow is only 8 weeks long. I use a single deep brood chamber. I rarely see my Queens have more than 7 frames of brood. The challenge is how well the house bees keep the nectar moved up out of the brood box. Some hives do better than others on this. Some hives manage pollen better than others too. Two mediums would most likely be enough room. You can also do a second Demaree a few weeks later if needed.

@@tonywestsbees6042 Thank you for your reply! I'll plan on that then.

@@IndiBex86 good luck

When removing a frame covered with bees, it is possible the Queen is transitioning from one frame to another. Literally it is possibly to roll the Queen like a pop can and can cause injury or kill her.

I recently seen this and definitely will get a few. I don't raise many Queens but it's something I do enjoy.

The second excluder is a "just in case" you miss a Queen cell in the upper box. If you did miss a cell, you end up with a mess down in your supers. On the Supers, in that video, it was drawn frames. This year I have already ran out of drawn frames, I'm putting in heavy waxed frames/foundation with a single drawn frame in the middle of the box directly over the brood nest to get more drawn out. I hope this helps.

If the hive was a little bigger, yes. We were still having cold nights. I waited a couple more weeks then put a drawn frames in the middle. Rule... Never have one brood frames by itself early in the year, always two or more then never more than one drawn frame. Don't divide the nest too much early on risking chilled brood or causing disruption or panic in the hive. Currently that hive has 7 frames of brood, one full honey super and starting on the second. The first hive in the video I have pulled 5 frames of brood from, is drawing out new foundation and has a deep filled with honey already. Not bad for a resource hive. Thanks for watching, I hope you enjoyed it.

I have done that. The older I get, the heavier things get!

It's a matter of reading the hive as you know. That hive between mid April and Mid June produced 175 pounds and rarely went over 6 frames of brood. That year I think we averaged 125-130 pounds per during that time period. In our area, local Beekeepers rarely get over 45 pounds of surplus and usually split to prevent swarming. This is an option for those that do not want to split or create more hives.

It can be done at anytime to prevent swarming. This is usually unnecessary after the summer solstice in the northern hemisphere.

@@tonywestsbees6042 I'm in the south so it stays warmer until late oct early November. I'm not too worried about swarming right now. i was thinking about it for strengthening the hive and possible fall honey. Thanks for the tips. Great info on your videos.

Yes, Paradise Bee Box. Made in Finland. Sold by Blue Sky.

Thanks so much for all the details. Seems perfectly priced as well.

@kaminsknator the only problem I have is with tiny ants trying to burrow into it. I have a couple video reviews on these hives.

Thanks!

Thanks Jason. It really was a last minute video to make. That was a feisty hive for sure and my jacket cuffs neen both new elastic and new thumb straps (still)! My follow up video was on a different hive as I had problems making the video on the original. The hive in this video made a surplus of 125 pounds and the hive in the follow up video made close to 175 pounds.

During peak spring buildup, 7 or maybe 8 frames is max but many Queens level out between 6 and 7. That's my experience and most of my bees are heavy Carniolan influence.

I've got another similar one to this coming up soon too.

It's a little insight into a few hives.

If you happen to miss an emergency Queen cell in the relocated brood box and this cell hatches, mates and returns, this will keep her out of your honey supers along with any rogue virgin or odd swarm that wants to settle in the upper. If you decide to use this to raise a Queen, definitely need the excluder for the above reason. It's a backup safety measure. Thanks for watching. Have a great season.

The season has definitely begun. This week temperatures will jump up, Redbud and Dandelions have started to bloom, swarm season is here. Stay ahead of them. Thanks for watching.

Thanks. They are Carniolan based stock. Open bred. I do bring in a pure Carni queen every couple years to graft from.

I'm glad you like them. That's why I do one here and there. Its nice to see other apiaries, progress, procedures, etc.

Thanks for watching and asking. Let's see if I can answer your questions. 1. Yes. Leave the Queen, one (or two) frames of capped brood, a food frame and if you have a pollen frame, all in the bottom box with the balance of open comb or even a frame or two of heavy waxed foundation. Drop the excluder on top of that. Immediately over that put your supers and the balance of open brood/nurse bees on top above the supers. 2. Yes, use a notched cover for an upper entrance. You might prop the outer cover up a little to make sure it does not cause a problem. 3. IF you decide to raise a Queen in the top box, make sure the upper entrance is facing the back of the hive, opposite of the main entrance. Once she is mated and laying, you can pull a small NUC split off the hive. You can also just continue with her in the upper box, make sure there is an excluder under that top box to keep her out of the supers over the main brood box. If you do this, she can then be used to re-queen the main hive in the fall. My spring flow is only 8-10 weeks long. By mid to late June, I'm pulling supers. I usually do not use this for raising Queens as I'm making summer splits in July and raising Queens then but Demaree does have options. For me, Demaree tricks the hive into thinking it has already swarmed and increases honey production.

You are about a week or so ahead of me sounds like. I have a dandelion here and there is all. Purple Deadnettle is just getting a good start here too, not yet to mid bloom. The cool nights really slowed it up. My Redbuds are not showing any color yet either. We had been running two weeks ahead of schedule but are not about "normal"... almost.

I'll be equalizing all the hives again this week. I have a couple NUCs to move into full size boxes this week too. Population is building fast, just in time for our flow. Exciting time of year.

Really hard to know why. If they were already in the "mood" to swarm, it's too late for Demaree to work. I had that happen to one hive my first year of trying Demaree. It must be performed before they have Queen cells and you need empty drawn comb for the replacement frames, at least some. Were they definitely swarms and not absconds? We've had no swarms the past few years using Demaree and our honey production has doubled.

Be removing the open brood and moving it away from the bottom brood location, the only thing left is the Queen, field bees and a frame of capped/emerging bees. The hive suddenly thinks it has swarmed as there is no open brood pheromone and the majority of frames are now empty. The relocated box will attempt to create a new Queen as they are far enough from the old Queen they are now a Queen-less box. You can raise a Queen in this box if you want but that really isn't the purpose of this. If you do raise a Queen in the upper box, make sure there is an entrance for it. This new Queen can then be used later in the year to either make a split or replace the older Queen. The idea of the Demaree is to trick the hive into thinking it already swarmed but truly does not depopulate the hive resulting in a bigger field force with their focus on hoarding honey. This video is the follow up video. I did make a Demaree Step by Step video. If you did not see that, go back and check it out.