Відео

Thanks for that detailed explanation.

Is it better to error on a thinner shim for the bearing compression if you cant get it to exact BMW specs?

Holy mackeral this video is so valuable, thanks for sharing this.

What’s with the heat? I’ve done lots of forks and never needed heat before

What is the Motion Pro tool number?

Thanks Mate For a very informative video, One of my to do lists on the DRZ

Hello, is it possible to get water tracking down the vent pipe & emulsifying the oil?

Any fix for this. Am about to get a used 2017 1200 gsa. I understand they had gear issues

I’ve read that the GS models used the gen 1 non vented final drives through 2007 with the same part number 2005 through 2007. Logic implies that this 2007 GS model final drive should have the 100 count ABS tone pattern on the back of the crown gear? Is this correct?

Absolutely fantastic video! It’s always a special treat to watch someone really experienced and professional work!

Hi!! Great video!❤ I am trying to find the tool to tighten the polygon nut of the cartridge. Do you have a link it?

An excellent explanation from the guru himself I repair these as a side line in the UK and there is much poor information bandied (on Facebook et al) about where they are concerned...thanks for clearing it up for all to see and understand clearly

The sticking part you mention I had fail in my 05 GS gearbox. I was able to replace just that piece in the gearbox. You have the updated version of that piece. The original has that "U" shaped piece pressed into the main part of the piece. Well after about 90k that "U" fell off and my shifter was dead in the water. Luckily it broke at the end of my driveway and I was able to just roll it into the garage to disassemble it all. The part came from Germany in the middle of COVID. Actually came pretty fast. I was surprised. After I have replaced that part and a new clutch since the bike had to be split anyways the bike runs and shifts great. But I will say that ai have had to have my bike apart twice now since ive owned it. Its not super tough to do but it is alot of dissembly. Im sure I could do it easily in a weekend. I believe BMW says yhey can do a clutch job in 8 hours. Alsonthe inside of the gearbox isnt all that tough. Getting the other side of the cover to line up with yhe drum and such can be a bit challenging.

Is this a common problem for the 1200 transmissions?

Excellent video. I recently acquired an '86 R80RT with 55k miles that had been stored for 25 years. I was a dealer tech during this era in the '80s. I haven't owned a BMW in decades, but I'm quickly become familiar with them again. I've rebuilt the forks, brakes and replaced the steering bearings, rebuilt the carbs and serviced other items. After 100 miles of use, I've moved on to other service requirements. I pulled the gear box to replace the crank seal, neutral switch and at least lube the clutch splines, only to find the output flange dragging. I backed off the cover plate bolts and the flange rotation freed up. I've ordered some tools to ease the rebuild process. Thanks for sharing this video.

good call on the 45degree conversion

было бы лучше если бы видео начиналось с собраной вилки

I have a question. When my rear output shaft bearing had to be changed, i realized that it was just one side closed. Is this originaly possible? I assembled the same way, but im not sure it is good.

Hi there, could you supply the measurement of the "castellated" nut remover. Diameter and the width of the teeth in mm. i need to make me one of those. Need to powder coat the housing, so disassembly is needed.

Wish youde show the lower leg bottoming cone circlip. You can pull the fork apart without slide hammering the stantion slide bush against the guide bush . Pull the upper out through the lower

Very comprehensive, you make it seem simple but you've obviously done a ton of these, mine has not failed but I do have matierial on the drain plug and gear oil on my rear wheel.

18:10 998 bearing????

Ein sehr gutes Video, das machen Sie nicht zum ersten Mal, ich habe es als Laie genau so gemacht. 220 NM sind wirklich sehr viel, ich dachte das Gewinde reist ab. Habe mich dann nochmal vergewissert. Das ist wirklich professionelle Arbeit. Allerdings habe ich die Lager vorher auf 80 Grad erwärmt, ist aber wahrscheinlich gar nicht nötig. Das zweite Mal wäre ich deutlich schneller. Ich liebe diese einfache Technik von den alten BMW’s. Sie sind so schön simpel gebaut. An der Ducati schraube ich nicht so gern. 👍

very good explanation!!

Great video, do you do this as a business? Could I send you a drive?

Great job!!! I wish i could send my bike's final drive for rebuild

Sir, can you please wrote Newton Meters? Don't hear very good on video...

How do I get in touch with you for a rebuild of R1100RT final drive?

Nice work. Great to see someone not reaching for a rattle gun for everything.

Just did my forks - thank you for the video! I replaced my bushings too using an All Balls kit but it only came with the guide bushing and the slide bushing. Once I opened my forks I realized there is a third on the dampening chamber. Anybody have any insight why this isn't standard for a bushing kit? I found a forum on the internet where some person said that bushing wasn't important but on my fork it had the most wear on it.

What Kind of cleaner/solvent do you use for cleaning? That doesn't damage bushings, o-rings, seals...

Hi. please, where do I find those seal drivers?

Oh, boy! Great job! Can’t do this myself :) Is anyone doing this in europe?

Priceless. Thanks.

Individual if you come up with the gear marking fluid (prussian blue) than you must realise that its not for clearance but for lining out gears and you not have to use it here to check a contact/view between crown/pinion because you can not change the lining of this crown/pinion wheel assembly anyway. The prussian blue gear marking fluid is more used with bigger industrial transmissions to check if the wear is spread out equally over the wide of the tooths.

I seen all the vids about the BMW final drives and every time missed the shim adjustment because I know as a mechanic that the clearance of a pinion/crown drive is crucial. Only this one explains the BMW specs. Thanks.

The backlash has to be between 0,07 and 0,16 mm. He did not show the measurement but you just have to measure that clearance on the diameter of the crown with a micrometer clock. You may want to repeat the whole proces until you find the best shim. This guy is a professional so he will not show the whole proces because you will need some technical background to get the measuring job done and those guys that have a measuring clock will know how to use that anyway.

The backlash is very important, I can understand that it can already be wrong from factory.

Thank you man

Great instructional video. Thanks for explaining the purpose of the different fork components

I did mine, but didn't pull the drive out, just replaced the bearings. Is it worthwhile pulling the driveshaft to grease the splines? It's been sitting for weeks while I got messed up with the heads, probably coulda cleaned it too... Thanks for your help dude.

Is it true that up to 1mm play at the rim is acceptable in the final drive

Is the transmission ratio (don't know if it's the proper definition...I mean number of turns/minute on the cardan link vs number of turns/minute of the wheel) the same for the vented and non-vented FD? In case, if the ABS ring is the same, would they be fully compatible to each other?

This is the first final drive video I've seen were the tolerances are actually checked. Nice job!

perfect thanks just need to find someone who is a professional like you in the uk

Thanks for a great video ,you do not sell that crown gear from the previous model (no vent model )

Great video. Really helpful in learning your way around a BMW final drive. I am about to setup a spare/backup final drive I purchased for my 2 BMW r1100gs'. Great watching you easily plow through bearing removal and installation.

is there a good method to check the tightness while still mounted ?

What temp did you heat in the oven?

E or S model forks?