Відео

Agreed, I have the same issue with the front dash. Did you go to the service center? I did and they said they tied down some wires and added felt padding, but the issue returned 💀

@@officialmichaeltanNot yet. I took delivery on July 5 and reported some other issues compiled from the delivery day and added the rattle a few days after and they have pushed out my apt 3x now. So supposedly, I am scheduled to bring it in Aug 15, but hoping they won't push it out again. And anytime I add another issue they seem to push out the date too. My 2022 Model 3 Long Range had rattles in the same front area and it turned out to be some broken clips. When they replaced, rattles didn't come backl. I should have just kept it. Once that was resolved the car was perfect. Now I regret getting into another rattle box. If they fix it all on then I will be a happy camper. Otherwise I may just move away from Tesla in general.

@@ihackertoo great info thank you. I’ll keep the clips in mind. Good luck in the meantime!

I’ve tried everything including that and unfortunately it doesn’t help

Sure you owned one bud 😂

@@samislam5946 a step backwards forsure

they did an apple move. Tesla ran out of turn signal stalks and rather than ordering new ones, they called removing them a new "feature". (headphone jack, home button, vibrate button)

Oh true 👍

Thank you for the feedback! Yup I have no brand loyalty haha, I just appreciate good value.

I just ordered an M3P in Ultrared and I wish I could get the Panasonic one from the US but I have to contend with the LG pack which is identical to my 22 M3LR

glad you’re paying attention 👍

Oh haha good call, I didnt even try that.

@@Magnus_Magnusson_702 hello, they updated the rear motor. It produces around 400hp from the motor. It also has a higher peak horsepower curve. Tesla made a video about it on their channel. Believe it is called 4D2 motor.

@@officialmichaeltan Oh yes! You are correct! I forgot about that. I have a 2020 Performance, I just paid it off and I love my car! I am not sure about taking the plunge into this new one or just keep what I have. I really don't care for the wheels on this new model though!! Thank you for responding!

@@Magnus_Magnusson_702 nice! The older version is still a beast

Wow that makes a lot of sense. The service center said it was caused by some bugs which I was skeptical about. Nice find.

I’ll try keeping my fingers off the turn signal buttons until then. Thank you

@@officialmichaeltan If that anecdotally works for you, you should make a video lol.

100%. I’m gonna give that a shot and will def post your info if it works. Good PSA

Got sick of it all together and installed the aftermarket stalks and couldn’t be happier! Feels just like my Model Y and no more having to take my eyes off the road to swipe up and down when trying to park and signaling.

@@Swampster70 makes sense, good info. Definitely had some wear near the edges but nothing crazy far down

@@officialmichaeltan The best thing to do is schmooz with the instructors and ask them about tire temps and how best to find it. Chances are they've had enough time with similar weight cars like the M3 to get you in the ball park. Some chalk or some "sneaker whitening goop" on the top edge of the sidewall will give you a good indication of how far the sidewall is rolling over. You don't want to eliminate this entirely by pressure adjustment alone, but it's a super simple way to check to see if your lead sled is going further than you'd like on the tire sidewall. A big circle dab on the top of the sidewall will do ya. Of course the other thing to look at is tire wear. What does it look like before and after the session? Is there much change? How does the tire wear on the track Vs on the street (over time). You do both so you have to take both into account but they may not be as mutually exclusive as you think. If you find the outside 1/4 wearing faster, if you can, dial in a little negative camber - if the Model 3 has adjustments via a cam bolt or similar. I don't have one so I wouldn't know. If you can it becomes a game of balancing the camber and toe and the tire pressure. With a bit more camber, you need less pressure to keep the sidewalls from rolling. Get a reliable temp probe and measure temps across the tire and see. It's easy to do. Temp and depth probes and pen/paper provides useful info - it's super simple yet very informative. Once you have data, if you can''t figure it out yourself, you can also chat to someone that can but without data it's all completely "subjective." If you tell someone "the back end is loose" there's a million reasons why. If you tell them, "my temps are this, my wear is this and it's loosey goosey on the rear" they can make a more informed reasoning on camber, toe and pressure. To be honest, I'd be tempted to set the oversteer/understeer slider in the middle at zero and sort the temps/wear and tire pressures first and leave that digital goodness until later. I've got a few years until I get one of these - set my main goal to pay off the house first and then have some fun. I do miss track days and especially autocross. It has been said that a could autocrosser can always track well but a good track guy may get lost in an autocross. Maybe give SCCA Solo2 a try. That'll give you ample opportunity to get good tire data and at very low risk of damage.

@@Swampster70 nice man, you got a lot of experience. And yeah your priorities are very logical haha. I bet these will be pretty cheap used eventually

@@officialmichaeltan I'm still gonna buy new, just wanna pay the house off first before I get another car payment. I'm starting to get used to a life with fewer bills and after 30 years of hard graft it's actually kinda nice. LOL I raced Autocross for quite a few years. Just like with any other sport or hobby, if you want to get better seek out those with a ton of experience and ask. Most people at national level are often quiet and reserved until asked cool techie questions and then, as they used to say back in England when I was growing up there "they'll talk the hind legs off a donkey" and give away all but the most of the top tips. The reason i didn't mention getting into replacing things is that if you can get the camber/caster/toe and set the tires at the optimal pressure then you can concentrate on the really important thing: the nut that holds on the steering wheel. No, not the nut under the airbag, the driver :P Seat time, seat time, seat time and more seat time. Go find local autocrosses from all different organizations and drive them all. If you like being out all day, see how many different classes the Tesla can be in and drive all of them.

We turned it on for the second half of the runs since it got hot inside. Maybe a little but pretty marginal.

No need for ceramics, just bigger (proper Brembo) brakes are just fine. Especially as you know (most) EVs are not good for multiple fast laps anyway.

@@mho0agreed

Yeah that’s why I prefer the M3P, but hopefully other car companies will catch up to make the market more competitive and cheaper for us.

I’m in the same boat. Agreed, very logical outlook

Didn’t spend a lot of time with the polestar 2 but the speakers didn’t sound noticeably better than the refreshed 2024 model 3 with the 17 speakers.

Thank you!!

800lb lighter, stiffer suspension, better stability. If you throw carbon ceramics and upgrade the brake fluid the M3P would be really good. The plaid is a beast but unwieldy

@@leoguo6584 the closest supercharger is 20min away. I ran three sessions and didn’t need to charge. We left early since it was super hot that day.

@@officialmichaeltan gotcha, thank you so much

Just curious, what you think real fun is?