Відео

I believe so yes, but I would double check with the coilover manufacturers to be sure. Congrats on the purchase, love the new Zs.

Thanks! Love the Most Wanted Civic.

@@nefariousracing just ordered some swift springs for it. Need to raise it up a little and increase the spring rate. Going from 9k front 4k rear (tein) to 12k front 6k rear (swift)

@@kraftingkars Nice, that should help with the rubbing.

@@kraftingkars Nice, that should help with the rubbing.

@@kraftingkars Nice, that should help with the rubbing.

You're welcome!

Do you need height adjustability? I believe the Bilsteins are not adjustable. Both kits will probably be really good.

@nefariousracing I want comfort for normal driving but I want performance too. First time dealing with suspension and I could really use some knowledge. I'm leaning towards the b8 with the eibach spring or might even go swift spring. Lowered would be nice but I'm staying on 18's with 245/45 in the front and 275/40 in the back

@@WhiteBeardDetail Both of those kits should get you what you are after. Just keep in mind the B8s are not height adjustable.

Bruuuuuh did you hear the part of the company has been around since 1924? They are proven by the millions of miles they've been used on cars across the world!!!

@Dope.And.Pretty What do you have against Swift Springs?

@@nefariousracing I mean I've searched and haven't found anything to support any of the claims you're making. But you say there are plenty of tests proving the lack of sag, so would just love to see one. Or any sort of explanation of how they're able to do all the rest of the magical things you're claiming.

@@Dope.And.Pretty There's quite a few tests on forums you should be able to find pretty easy where people tested them, for example compressing them to show how consistent they are all the way through the range compared to other coilover springs. It's also do with the specific metal composition they use which gives the springs their characteristics. To be fair though a lot of it will be anecdotal - for example how "comfortable" the ride is, that's kind of hard to measure other than personal feel and opinion. But the general consensus is that they are definitely better than most (possibly all) other springs on the market.

@@nefariousracing Can you link one? Should be easy to find.

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

Their spec r lowering springs are built for the oem shocks

@@m8teqc716 thanks

As @m8teqc716 said, they have some lowering spring applications but the ones I'm speaking about in the video are only for coilovers.

@@nefariousracing im assuming their lowering springs share the same material and thus the same pros?

@@m8teqc716 I would imagine so but haven't looked into it in detail yet.

That sounds extremely high. What's the default spring rate for your car and kit?

You sure it's the coilovers?

@@nefariousracing I haven’t had the sound until I installed them. Idk what else it could be. Squeak noise in the left then a clunk when turning in the right rear.

@@BboyMobster Possibly springs binding or a bearing is busted. Sway bar links are also another common cause of clunks if your car has them. Were they brand new?

@@nefariousracing yessir. Brand new.

TEIN Flex Z.

What do you mean?

You're welcome my friend

Honestly bro, me too. I don't get why people love Konis.

You're welcome!

Where did you get that information from? On TEIN's website it says linear.

@@nefariousracing The manual that came with my Tein Flex Z. In the manual it has a shock dyno graph of the coilovers and it shows a digressive piston graph.

@@niccolowalrond6189 Can you email me this?

@@nefariousracing Sure no problem

@@nefariousracing confirmed?

yeah he's got it reversed i think too

You're welcome

Feals set up for drag are probably your best bet, speak to them about the ideal setup for your car. If you are taking drags seriously and the car is RWD, you'll want softer rears so it can put the power down.

Have you got coilovers already? Swift Springs fit onto coilovers. They are not lowering springs

Good advice Bill. Swift Springs would also help with comfort.

@@nefariousracing Yup, that's exactly what I did

Are the swift springs worth it for daily driving?

@@waybach Yes if you want more comfort.

TEIN Flex Z for more comfort but both will do the job fine.

Thanks! This was quite a few years ago now but from memory it was in the low 15s.

Megans are ok as far as budget coilovers go, they're some of the better ones but they are still budget coilovers at the end of the day. See if there are TEIN Flex Zs for your car as they would be perfect for what you are after.

Thank you for taking the time to respond back. Tein doesn't make the Flex Z coilovers for the 2013 Toyota Camry LE, only make em for the Camry SE. Tein only has the Hyper Street 2 coilovers and they're Monotube with 32 way dampening. Are the Tein Hyper Street 2 coilovers any good?

@@westcoastreps174 Hyper Street II's are made by Rev9 not TEIN. I would not recommend them, I've seen way too many negative reviews and problems. If your budget is sub $1000 (and TEIN is not an option) my choice would be Riaction first, then Megan Racing or Godspeed next.

@nefariousracing your right about the Hyper Street II's being Rev9 coilovers. I just seen the green color and assumed they were Tein. Riaction only makes coilovers for the XLE/SE versions of Camry and they go for just over $1000. Thanks for taking the time to respond back.

@@westcoastreps174 Are you sure that those won't fit your Camry? Often kits from other trim levels do fit.

Thanks! That's definitely a video I want to make in the future when I get a chance.

Awesome thanks!

Awesome!

Those are monotubes.

Yes

Serbian, grew up in NZ, never been to US.

@@nefariousracing This is my other account, interesting combo of languages hahah. my steering wheel hub somehow shorts out the horn?

@@rowleks7102 Yeah haha. Sounds like either the terminals are touching the hub (can happen when you press the horn button in if they are not covered) or the ring may have moved and the wire where it connects is touching the metal of the hub.

First I would double check that your multimeter works are you are definitely contacting the wires correctly. If yes, then something is probably wrong with the TPS.

@@nefariousracing Yes, as the power supply shows 5 volts, but the sensor is 3.35. The car recently started to turn off when I am slowing down such as stop for traffic signal. Doesn't accelerate as usual.

@@zozotv3665Very likely the TPS is faulty then.

That's a good tip.

Same principles will apply, but you will need to adapt the parts and process to the particular car.

@@nefariousracing I don't need a breaker?

@@FatalCorleone07 It's not a bad idea to put one in to be safe, but considering that BMW and other manufacturers didn't put one in from factory, I didn't for a street car. If it was a track car I probably would.

@@nefariousracing oh true. Well I'm waiting for my BMW cable harness to come from the UK

@@FatalCorleone07Awesome let me know how you go.

Won't fix this

It can yes. But you don't HAVE to grease them.

No worries Franck. Unfortunately the plastic screw adapter did not hold out, it kept breaking and eventually fell apart.

Agreed, should have mentioned about replace the copper washer. Thanks for pointing those out!

Yeah that should be fine, a little bit of variance is normal.

Yes it is

If you have an airbag, yes you should.

@@nefariousracingsweet thank you mine is the same wheel as yours so I’ve removed it and am watching your video as I go, I got a scarles wheel and have attached it to my boss kit and am trying to sort the horn now

@@Hey_Im_Cable Awesome let me know how you go.

@@nefariousracinghey bro I’m still trying to get the horn working (don’t get me started😂) I bought a new boss kit as last one didn’t come with clips to turn off indicators automatically (failed cert on it) I have now got a new one from scarles and it is a HKB sport boss kit and it has a green wire which is solder on to the back plate so I’d assume it’s ground, now the tricky part is getting horn power as I have a spare cable but nowhere to install it to make the horn go, any questions?

​@@Hey_Im_Cable Oh shit, haha. Both wires on the horn are ground, the second one needs to connect to the boss kit itself, usually through a ring that holds the horn button and fits between the steering wheel and the boss kit. So you understand what's going on, when you press the horn button, it completes the grounding connection and the horn then activates. So one wire should be on that back plate, and the other needs to connect to the chassis (the ring I mentioned, which is touching the boss kit which is touching the steering column). Hope that makes sense.

Honestly I just forgot to film that.