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Tommy Segovia
United States
Приєднався 31 бер 2022
How I Got Rid of Tenosynovitis | Fixing Climber Finger Pain
▶ This Episode
Hey guys, I wanted to share some of my experiences and thoughts on things that contribute to finger pain and what I believe is tenosynovitis. I've had tweaky painful fingers for most of my time spent as a climber and only recently have I felt like I've really started to understand and get a handle on things.
▶ Time Stamps
Essential Foundations 3:36
Niche Cause #1 11:14
Niche Cause #2 13:45
▶ Get the Unlevel Edge
headtotoe3d.com/products/metacarpedge-v2-the-original-unlevel-hangboard-redesigned?aff=11
▶ Follow me on my Socials
Instagram 📷 tommysegovia
TikTok 🎵 www.tiktok.com/@tommy_segovia
Hey guys, I wanted to share some of my experiences and thoughts on things that contribute to finger pain and what I believe is tenosynovitis. I've had tweaky painful fingers for most of my time spent as a climber and only recently have I felt like I've really started to understand and get a handle on things.
▶ Time Stamps
Essential Foundations 3:36
Niche Cause #1 11:14
Niche Cause #2 13:45
▶ Get the Unlevel Edge
headtotoe3d.com/products/metacarpedge-v2-the-original-unlevel-hangboard-redesigned?aff=11
▶ Follow me on my Socials
Instagram 📷 tommysegovia
TikTok 🎵 www.tiktok.com/@tommy_segovia
Переглядів: 1 023
Відео
Dynamic Moves and Pull-up Pr's | Road to V11 | ep 3
Переглядів 1,9 тис.28 днів тому
▶ This Episode In this episode I show off some work that I'm doing on the home wall. I also do some training and gym climbing. I hope you enjoy! ▶ This Series - Road to V11 Follow me on my journey to climbing V11. Where I plan to share my experiences with what does and doesn't work when it comes to training and climbing. I hope you enjoy the series and I'm looking forwards to hearing your thoug...
Climbing the Last 6C Moonboard 2019 Benchmarks | Road to V11 | ep 2
Переглядів 3 тис.2 місяці тому
▶ This Episode In this episode I show off some finger rehabbing that I've been doing for my tweaky finger, alongside some heavy hangboard sets, and finishing off the last of the benchmark 6C's on the 2019 moonboard. I hope you enjoy and thanks for watching! ▶ This Series - Road to V11 Follow me on my journey to climbing V11. Where I plan to share my experiences with what does and doesn't work w...
Sending Everything on the Set | Road to V11 | ep 1
Переглядів 3853 місяці тому
▶ This Episode In this video I go over my session that I had a while back where I attempted to flash/send every boulder on the new set. Afterwards we do some projecting on a pretty tough V9. ▶ This Series - Road to V11 Follow me on my journey to climbing V11. Where I plan to share my experiences with what does and doesn't work when it comes to training and climbing. I hope you enjoy the series ...
Naughty Karate V10 | Road to V10 | ep 2 (Finale)
Переглядів 4204 місяці тому
▶ This Episode This episode is the last in the Road to V10 series (Road to V11 will start next episode). This video is all about the last two session I had on Naughty Karate, my first V10. I hope you enjoy the process and find inspiration to go out and find a boulder that motivates and psyches you for that next level. Thank you for watching :) ▶ This Series - Road to V10 Follow me on my journey...
Sending Moonboard Benchmarks | Road to V10 | ep 1
Переглядів 3,1 тис.4 місяці тому
▶ This Episode This episode I show two session in one week where I do some training on the moonboard, lifting, and auxiliary exercises as well as some gym climbing and projecting. ▶ This Series - Road to V10 Follow me on my journey to climbing V10. Where I plan to share my experiences with what does and doesn't work when it comes to training and climbing. I hope you enjoy the series and I'm loo...
Are You Training Too Much? | Road to V10 | ep 0
Переглядів 2415 місяців тому
▶ This Episode In this episode, I go over what my training looked like towards the end of the year and a general welcome to the series. In this episode I show some of my warmup, my weighted pullups, and some moonboarding to finish out the session. I give some advice for those who may be changing their training plans too quickly, as I have before. As quick changes in training can result in injur...
Triangle face V7 - Carver, Oregon
Переглядів 186Рік тому
🪨 Triangle face V7 - Carver, Oregon 📱Socials📱 Instagram: tommysegovia?hl=en TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@tommy_segovia ⬇️Use code GETGNARLY15 for 15% off at ⬇️ Gnarly nutrition: classic.avantlink.com/click.php?tool_type=ml&merchant_link_id=aef7b45e-b48d-472d-9f32-68bf058ad595&website_id=1bf4e7ff-c15f-4d21-84e1-0760c3137e87
Full Stroke (V2) - The Garden, Oregon
Переглядів 32Рік тому
Very fun line 🪨 Full Stroke (V2) - The Garden - Oregon 📱Socials📱 Instagram: tommysegovia?hl=en TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@tommy_segovia ⬇️Use code GETGNARLY15 for 15% off at ⬇️ Gnarly nutrition: classic.avantlink.com/click.php?tool_type=ml&merchant_link_id=aef7b45e-b48d-472d-9f32-68bf058ad595&website_id=1bf4e7ff-c15f-4d21-84e1-0760c3137e87
Project Mayhem (V1+) - barefoot
Переглядів 42Рік тому
Crimpy problem to the left of fight club, V1 or something I guess. 🪨Project Mayhem (V1 ) - The Garden - Oregon 📱Socials📱 Instagram: tommysegovia?hl=en TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@tommy_segovia ⬇️Use code GETGNARLY15 for 15% off at ⬇️ Gnarly nutrition: classic.avantlink.com/click.php?tool_type=ml&merchant_link_id=aef7b45e-b48d-472d-9f32-68bf058ad595&website_id=1bf4e7ff-c15f-4d21-84e1-...
Ty for video! I also found it felt super risky to try any hard crimpy latches at the end of the session or if they just felt bad that day. I also found myself doing constant but light exercises with a Thera band throughout my session helped me :)
I’m not sure why, but the two niche cause timestamps in the video are incorrect. The fixed timestamps are in the description! Sorry about that 😓
how i got rid of tenosynovitis and proceeds to yap incessantly without going straight to the point. i mean you could start of an introduction to the problem and offer solution in a guideline format and maybe add commentary for the end but this was a total waste of time. for people with more acute problems this video is garbage. learn to structure your content next time man. also you can add time stamps on the description not on the video. its clickable and will direct future viewers to actual time.
@@thegamingzaddy yeah the guideline format was sort of my plan but I do agree it could have been a lot more concise. It’s the first time I’ve really made this format of video and there’s definitely a lot left to learn! The description time stamp is a good idea, I’ll change that :) and yes I agree, my intention of the video was not to diagnosis and give prognosis for acute injury, more just giving background and perspective on how I got rid of my tenosynovitis, which in my experience as well as other people I know, is typically not an acute injury but prolonged issues in training or recovery. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts!
@@tommysegovia5328 dang super tough critic. Thanks for the video. I found the last bit particularly informative My middle finger has been acting up recently and I may have just found my cause
@@MichaelGagin I’m glad you were able to get some good info from it! I hope it ends up fixing it :)
Thanks for this video -- I've been going a little harder than usual (for me) for the last couple months (3 sessions a week), and I've definitely started feeling some pain in my fingers. My warm up consists of 4-5 reps of 8 second hangs on a level 20mm edge (along with some pull ups, push ups, leg stretches etc). For the first 2-3 reps, I no-hang or i'll have one foot on the ground, building up to a couple regular hangs. During those hangs i typically feel the fingers complaining a bit, particularly the middle finger like you said. I'm pretty thin / don't weigh a ton for a guy, so i'm skeptical about trying to hang with more weight than just my body weight atm. Last week, I was an idiot and deadpointed straight to a probably 15-20mm crimp hold without warming up (rare), and it hurt quite a bit. I've also noticed that as i progress in the session, any kind of pain subsides -- i guess it takes the joints some time to warm up. I think my warm ups are helpful, but I do let my session drag on for too long sometimes like you said -- more focus (and sleep & better quality food & hydration) would all help. So yeah Just some random thoughts, I can definitely relate -- looking forward to watching more of your content!
@@johnpica1082 I’m sorry to hear that :( hopefully your feeling a little better after some rest. And yeah keeping sessions from dragging on is something I struggled with a lot (still do sometimes). I hope the video was some help and I’d love to hear in the future if things end up helping!
may i ask that is it the 20 mm finger bloc for the exercise that you did in the session 2
Yeah it’s a 20mm edge, technically 30mm with a 10mm insert so 30-10=20.
grades pls
Thanks for the input! Next episode will have them 😎
Yes. Put the grades up, and speed through or skip the moderates
Thank you for the input! Will do 😁
Getting STRONG dude, made that black look soo chill
Haha thanks 😁 it was a super fun one to get
Wow, great video! Glad i discovered your channel
Thank you!
Just adding to the comments to say I'm also dealing with PIP synovitis/capsulitis in the middle finger. Looking forward to that vid!
It’s in the works!
Next time you develop an original idea that you believe in post it on r/climb harder and I'll bet your viewership will double because it looks like you've already mastered everything required for climbing content besides getting noticed. This is honestly one of the most enjoyable climbing videos I've found. (I'll admit I haven't slept in like 20 hours and my judgement might be clouded, but I think I'm right)
This is the nicest, most encouraging comment I’ve ever gotten 😭 thank you so much, I might need to give that a shot in the future :)
Would love to know what you consider is causing you your PIP inflammation. I also have the same
I’ll definitely try to make a decent video covering everything that I think contributed to it soon
Is this 2 sessions within the week Or 3 sessions?
3 sessions, sorry 😅 I may have misspoke in the video
Dope! Getting me psyched for a sesh today.
love the vids dude! I think anything more than 3s on a max hang is unnecessary, max effort is usually hit just after 2 seconds, anything longer causes a lot of excess fatigue with not a lot of positive tissue change.
I’m glad to hear I’m not the only one in this line of thinking. Dang 3 seconds is even shorter than what I’ve been doing, how well have your results been doing that method? And thank you for the kind words!
Definitely need that PIP joint vid, struggling with it now
Definitely will soon :)
bossclimbs did a really good video on it
Hey there! I'm just curious, which gym is this? It looks like a Sender One gym but I'm not sure. Great vid btw.
Thank you! :D it’s the rockboxx in Salem, Oregon
Good stuff man, CS classes getting your narration up
Were is that place ? Looks awesome
It’s carver boulders near Portland Oregon, it is pretty awesome 😁
Nice job! I was there on your first session. Psyched to see you got it next sesh. You should try southpaw for your road to v11!
Thank you! Do you think southpaw is easier than sensei?
I liked the vibe! Happy to join on this very small and at the beginning of it’s journey youtube channel! Haha
Yay! Thank you!
Loved the vid! I’m at a very similar level as you and have been ticking off all the 6C moonboard benchmark with a few more left to go. I do have a dream goal that I’m too embarrassed to share but subscribed so that I can see your climbing progress! I’ll be able to assess my own training plans by seeing your progress. You’re looking very strong so keep it up!!
Nice! The 6C's are no joke. I'm glad to hear you have a big goal too :D who knows, sometimes sharing can definitely help with keeping yourself on track with it (kinda part of my goal with these episodes haha). Thank you so much for the kind words :)))
big vibes, lovin it
Thank you! :D
What’s your split look like for training/working out to climbing for me it’s hard to separate the strength training to climbing because I try not to be sore for a hard climbing sesh but I’m just curious what your opinion is I’ve done v10 but I wouldn’t call myself a v10 climber
I typically do all my strength training before my climbing session. Typically only one exercise (max hangs/pullups/curls) then typically moderate climbing or projecting in styles that are still fresh (ex. not doing hard crimping on max hang days). Then normally my next day's session will be just climbing. Then the third day will be resting, then repeat. With eating ~1g/lb bodyweight in protein, and at least 8 hours of sleep each day, I am almost never sore with this training.
I know those holds, if thats V8 im Shawn fucking Raboutou
"V1 in my gym bro"
V4
True
Literally
@@dao71490ify to be fair, I think the boulder was pretty morpho lol
Let’s gooo.
YuaAgAGOO
How do you get down?
You can climb down the backside of the Boulder