Відео

Definetly live long life while doing so, compared to others.

Good one bro

Mazda rx8

No i use oem 30% lsd. Car modification consist of: - tires - kevlar clutch - drilled and slothed brake discs and selected pads - sl6 brake fluid from ate (260*c boiling point - coilovers - poliurethane rubber on swaybar Tho this car does not need anything to start learning

@@programmerasmechanic2262 What part number of the kevlar clutch?

Oem clutch that have changed friction discs by local expert. I given him 5 discs which not broke and i drifted on 3.

I gived that to friend to watch his progress but will be back probably next week

Always pleasure to chase each other

Why do you think it is automatic? Specially i need to ask this question since i pointed my clutch was slipping.

Thank You tho it seems like many others

I think in my other video „checking bearing…” i had mentioned that something is not correct. In summary one bearing hold for 3000km, i had warranty claim, company replaced it and second hold for 50km, we are talking about blueprint, maybe factory diffects maybe sth else idk. I bought used oem and it is in car to this day. Tho if you are in us on rockauto or sth like that there is avaliable timken, and from what i had found those were mounted in rx8 in factory fyi. Tho when friend ordered from there shipment never came, to Poland so idk.

Rx8 engine swap

Basically 2y ago i had dumb idea to put rotary engine in mb, this is the result.

This is really nice to read, i'm thankfull for the input, let know how it went!

@@programmerasmechanic2262 Hey, i just finished it yesterday. turns out it wasnt the issue but new is new i guess haha. I had some trouble with the 2 centering screws on the brake disc, needed to dril them out and didnt put them back in. Also getting the Hub off was a Challenge. I used every method i could find on the internet (where you didnt need a special tool) but nothing seemed to work. So i ordered myself one of these sliding hammers and i got it off fairly easy, definetly would recommend that tool! other than that i knew exactly what to do because of your tutorial. CHEERS! Also, i think it may be possible to hammer the Hub out just like you did but Im a women and i dont have that much strength haha, with the sliding hammer it was wayyy easier. :)

@@5MMohder Woah, that is really cool thank You. :) And yeah usually those rotor screws are pain, generally dont needed. as You probably imagine wheel holds them better than those screws. But i'm proud i did not had thow out mine away, but it took me 2mo to get those out in this car so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .

Kontrola trakcji jest wylaczona do drugiego poziomu, wszystkie inne systemy jak poduszki i abs w pelni dzialaja Full traction control is off up to second level, any other system like airbag and abs are fully functional

Dear viewer, i am sad to read that you are unsatisfied with result of your actions according to my video. If you want to know why title says what it states, reading description should satisfy your curiosity. But i think, i should be more sad for what you wanted so desperatly to find, that you watched whole video and is unsatisfied enough to make comment about it. Peace✌️and have a nice day tho.

What do You mean mate?

Cool, could you allaborate on that one? I would like to learn but nothing can be caught with unconstructive critics.

Thanks ✌

Yes „Tor wchodzacy bialystok” it is

There is little to no room between trigger wheel and sensor, grime might need toothbrush, and if there will be metal shavings it will need physical interaction. But yes it will prob work just fine.

From every source that i found it is one inacurate, two inconsistant. Because in service manual we have letters f-y and 5 avaliable precut seal size, we have 4 letters per one side seal size, from what i remember but dont quote me on this one, because i might be wrong, between k and t marks there is 0.3mm difference, since normal fitment would be 0.15mm it is realy bad fitting. But i assume i do not remember correctly as between k and t is 2 sizes. But whatever. Either way you can buy precut seals, but if you want consistancy on compression and working you buy oversize and grind Youself. To precision of 0.01-0.02mm There is also issue of avaliability some shops offer only precut, then for consistancy you buy longest and grind it since v w x y appear so rarely that in some manuals they do mot exists. Or shop have only oversize, if that shop will have best deal on whole kit you will probably grind it by hand.

I hope it is not to late but from any other automatic you should not remove torque converter from transmission, so there should be access to bolts either from starter or intake side. Starter is in different position and plugs on gearbox should be different, so i expect 1h more job. Or worse way would be to pull it with gearbox then there is no care within connectors and cramming in little place to get few bolts out.

@Programmer As Mechanic I pulled the torque converter bolts out first. The trans cooler lines got in the way, and the starter bolts were a pain, but other than that, it was pretty much the same as on a manual.

I’m glad that You made it!

I had one from engine i bought

I see that Your climate is more stable than where i'm, so 10w40 sae should be ok But specyfic oil brand and model will be hard to choose when i'm not familiar with market. Try to check our this projectfarm oil competition, and choose something from top brands with desing for heavy use should be ok. ua-cam.com/video/TWuKvnCq1js/v-deo.html But again i dont live there i have little knowledge about what is good from avaliable on shelf.

Sorry for late reply, i didnt at point of putting most videos there were year or 2 old. And i advice to not try cast full engine mounts, gutting old internals and putting polyurethane is best way to go. Because top aluminium mount part does not bond properly to that foam, plus i would advice thing that i didn't do is vaccum chamber to get all air from mixture.

Basicly You move sensor around, ecu thinks that your sensor is in pos x, while it might be 1 degree off. So some time untill ecu will learn it can missfire.

07'

Depending on what do you mean by work, car worked same as previously. In my case problem with long start, was in atkins corner seals. After changing for used oem set car starts fine.

Wanting to kill engine faster sure

I read that and have it laying here in front if mazdas 0.4mm is ok than my 0.05-0.15mm that i found out on forum should be good. And it seems like it is, my first engine that i did, now passes smogs like it should, there is minimum oil dilution. Please provide more data, your „it will cause x” is made on what basicly? I clearly see my approach working on many engines and i dont see your standpoint that i can check for data.

Not as low, tbh most people does noot have idea that they should warm up engine a little before driving. New cars even dont have temp gauge anymore You just need to gues when your coolant is ready. This was suppose too be fast gig just to lauch a little. Tbh i assume i know why kl engine blew twice, but i'm learning each day new things that i can identify approching problems and figure out problems tthatt i had before.

Woow men You really took time to get through videos and commenting. Thank You. I mean yeah this engine is basicly in firewall, so that is why swaps in previous gens are reversable but in rx8 to fit another engine you need to either 1) cut body 2) move steering rack remove support for battery and airbox 3) move steering rack. There been very little swaps in rx8 that managed to fit engine in there but whenever anybody pulls that subject, i usually get my info that they cutted body and carry away..

@@programmerasmechanic2262 well, maybe the upside is that will discourage people from destroying rotary vehicles with piston swaps! Check out this video...he is a rotary mechanic in California starting an engine removal series on a white RX-8. I think he has over 25k subs. If you comment and put a link to your channel, he’ll give you a shout out. Maybe that will increase traffic and subs. ua-cam.com/video/ALsvTH5fe-U/v-deo.html

Im currently using your video to remove my rx8 engine, I’m planning on emerging swapping it from a Saab

Tbh. I am not a person to tell you everything, we have builder in poland that can unlock stock renesis with tune to i think 12k because it should be ballanced up to 12.5k. But on american forums, people claim that going over stock 9k you should ballance assembly. Mixed answers to same question, maybe in us there are more poeple like Rob Dahm says it "thay will sell you sh*t you dont need to make x hp". Maybe it will be something different. If this youtube channel will grow (assuming from my work putted into this it will not be fast) it will all depend on how much money i would like to pump to wierd experiments. Because to test this properly, i should build 3 engines. Buy either mazdaedit or standalone and retune it myself and seeing when engine will start to be unballanced. Thanks for comments, You really help. :)

@@programmerasmechanic2262 Japanda Tuning did alright with just basic how-to videos, buyers guides, etc. UA-cam changed dramatically over last few years, so “going viral” is much more difficult for people starting channels now. As for balancing, I think it is very important for high revs and cars being driven aggressively, but even useful for daily drivers. Mazda quality throughout the RX-7 production was very good. I think a uality dropped during RX-8 production. By quality, I mean tolerances and variances in specs for parts. This is just anecdotal - very limited experience, but I’d rather check. Thanks for response.

It is closed, untill you have racing licence then probably you can rent it for training. There are some tracks in Poland, maybe look for miatachallenge track list if You cannot find any in area. Sadly they have no open class this year where people can just sign in came and test any car. But i would like to go for rx8 class next year if nothing will change.

As i did another video i have simpler e-shaft sensor placement, another one is harder to crack and i think only way to replace it it will be either destroying existing sensor or cutting front plate, which should be fine.

Sorry for answering this one late, but i just last week found it and had to check few things Not only buildup is not as much problem when engine have proper flow and temperature, if you are willing to use some thing from your comment to be fitting here, i siggest using oil dedicated for gpf and dpf, those will be suited to burn more cleanly. But other parts of comment… oil quality is not always better than 40 years ago, and in case of rx8 20year old dexelia is still same elf oil that was created then. Additionally oil viscosity here in rotary is basically your barier between e-shaft and bearing. And in case that we use such tolerances that 20w60 does not cause issues i would suggest to use better fitted oil. But if you are willing to do rebuilds all the time be my guest, i really did this as information, not to force you to use x, and if you do and will claim rotaries are bad unreliable etc. remember that you did your research and avoided what is there

Sure do you use your car for racing or ore user for regular for work like I live in Chicago some time get hot so which oil I was I using 10w30 but then I when to get a oil change and the use 5w30