Відео

The ABS module is in-line between the brake caliper and the fluid reservoir. Any fluid going up to the reservoir when reverse bleeding is passing through the ABS unit first from my understanding.

I’m glad! Please consider liking and subscribing! It helps my channel a lot!

just some no-name… the mirrors and brake/clutch levers are not stock but came on the bike when I got it. I was able to track down a similar set on Amazon here: a.co/d/6WsHN9I (I’m not an affiliate, I don’t receive anything if you’d rather look it up independently). Please consider subscribing though!

Thank you

An interesting point you make about tying the brake lever back to the bar overnight. I hear a lot of people talking about this. I speak as someone who has ridden all my life, raced successfully, built countless race bikes and restorations and have a large collection of motorcycles which I enjoy maintaining. With the brake lever pulled back, the fluid return hole to the master cylinder reservoir is blocked off - if not, the brake couldn't provide pressure to the calipers. So how does air escape from the system? If the lever isn't pulled back the return hole is open, therefore allowing air a much better chance to escape into the reservoir. I'm not saying the tied back lever doesn't have an effect (placebo?) but in my experience this has been temporary if at all. As you probably know, when releasing the brake lever the caliper pistons are drawn away from the disc by the minute flex in the piston seals. Could it be that tying the lever back and applying very firm pressure for an extended period allows the pistons to assume a new position in the seals thus initially reducing the lever travel required to apply the brake? Or could it be that older rubber brake hoses get some of the flex stretched out of them giving a firmer feel, albeit temporarily? One thing's for sure, there ain't no air escaping with the lever pulled.

The concept with tying the handle back, is that it pressurizes the line which forces any air bubbles up to the master cylinder. The air will be evacuated once the front lever is released. It’s not placebo. I’ve had two 1100RT bikes for a total of over 240,000 miles. I’ve replaced lines, rotors, pads. I’ve flushed the brakes to get rid of a soft lever.

@@guymersh3148 Thanks for engaging with my channel, I really appreciate it! I reference a lot of old forums and use manuals/diagrams when I can, but I also let my intuition guide my decision making sometimes: here’s the process as I worked through it… maybe seeing my logic might provide some clarity (ultimately the process firmed up my brakes, and my ABS system is working as it should). By leaving the line pressurized for a set duration, air will be naturally forced to work its way up to the master. After tapping the lines in a few places to move any additional trapped air up, I then cracked the banjo bolt connected directly to the master and bled from there. That specific process isn’t about removing air from the lines… rather MOVING air WITHIN the lines in order to help to bleeding process. I finished with one final bleed at the front calipers and got really great lever feel.

I was able to fit a small 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm socket there and was able to loosen it, and then unscrew it with my fingers

they’re such simple bikes. super easy to keep running!

Got mine circa three weeks ago. Imported to my country because theres none. A gorgeous red, full fairing and panniers (sadly no key) and some extras. Its all ripped apart by now, for quadruple bypass 😂

Totally objective man. I’ve ridden the heck out of this bike and saved it from certain scrap. So call it what you will, but the soul of the bike is still on the road and being enjoyed. If you’re such a vintage Honda enthusiast, just buy one. If a “youngster with an angle grinder” can afford one, I’m sure you can too! Happy riding!

I purchased this 4 pack of O Rings online from Amazon.

@@kxnrxd4908 could you give me the link? Please. I need it to solve the same problem with my XVS1100 Custom. Thanks

Technically an O Ring can be referred to as a gasket, but not always the other way around. Like if I were to say rectangle, but it was actually a square. Both are correct, but one is more specific. I appreciate your viewership and engagement!

Purchased online through Amazon

Purchased online through Amazon

The first time I sealed the old plug with red permitex. Than AS PER Suzuki repair manual I replaced the rubber plug over the head bold closest to the exhaust. The Red was applied as permitex instructions a small spaghetti like bead on one side all along the valve cover. Not on the plug. This seemed to work until today I opened the bike up.leaking

General consensus seems to be: better on the road modified than rotting in a barn stock! The GL500 isn’t anything to write home about either, I rode it stock for a while.

Thank you! Don’t hesitate to ask questions. Although I’m no expert, I’ve learned a few things along the way. Best of luck and keep the rubber side down!

Thank you! Nothing more frustrating than going to UA-cam for help and finding no results… trying to fill those gaps anytime I can contribute. Safe riding man!

It didn't work, so I bought that head plug and did it all over again. Still leaks. pouring out at the exhaust. I'm wondering if I have a cracked head? Also considering JB welding that plug from hell. and using grey instead of red sealer.

My recommendation (if you haven’t done this process), would be to thoroughly clean off all the oil on the cooling fins. From there, let your bike idle for a while or maybe take it out for a short ride. It’s considerably easier to see exactly where the oil is coming from when your engine is entirely clean. There is a stud in the cavity below the exhaust header that is also a common leaking point. If you can track your leak to there instead of the top of your head, you may make some progress. Sorry my video wasn’t more suitable to your needs! Keep the rubber side down brother

@@brucebenioff ua-cam.com/video/vhSRkBUYoj4/v-deo.html

Thanks so much for watching!

I haven’t personally had that issue. If it’s something you are experiencing, I would check to ensure your pads and rotors are in full working/clean condition. After that, I would probably check to see that your master cylinder isn’t gunked up. Appreciate you taking the time to watch!

driver was clutched soft, appreciate the concern!

I ended up going with Dunlop American Elites, I’ve had no complaints so far. The set ran me $331 after tax at a local shop (surprisingly cheaper than online)

@@kxnrxd4908 Thank you, I appreciate it!

This is very good advise. I was thinking the exact same thing.

Just like to much grease can be bad as well on bearings or any type of joints.

Just dont use it at all. I only use it in special places. Certain gasket corners. Certain oil pans. Grommets. Using it on an entire sealing surface is just a heinous nightmare for the the next time you're in there.

mine came on the bike, ended up removing them anyways. They just threaded into a bracket (I’d assume either factory optional or after market… not sure)

@@kxnrxd4908 mine has engine guards with the highway pegs attached. Thought it looked cleaner without the engine guards

Sounds very likely in my opinion. If you haven’t yet, clean the entire engine and take it out for a ride. If you can see for sure that the oil is coming from the top, I can almost guarantee that’s your issue. In theory, a leak like that would indicate leaking from the valve cover (on my bike there wasn’t even a gasket). I also don’t know the specific name for the cap, but it’s well-documented issue. Maybe look into the threaded conversion. Thanks for watching! Hope this helps.

@@kxnrxd4908 yep, definitely a big help mate! You have the only video about this on UA-cam. Atleast for now I have a direction to follow. I hate taking my bike into the shop unless it's absolutely necessary. Cheers.

Thanks! Hopefully you also have a good idea about what the silverwing is like!

Check out my riding video! (Motovlog 1) I talk a bit about the bike as well as my thoughts on it. I think the bike (in stock form) is great around town or for short commutes. If you can find one in good condition that runs well, don’t hesitate to pick it up. The shaft drive is super smooth and the bike is pretty comfortable to ride. As I mention in the video I referenced, it’s not geared for consistent highway riding. Around town, however, it’s comfortable and does well on fuel consumption too!

I saw a lot coming out of the valve cover gasket area on top

next to the exhaust port.

over and over I hear this oil leak problem. But I don't hear the oi l leak solution.

I’m sorry to hear that Phil. These bikes are notorious for leaks, no doubt. If I ever start leaking from the plug again, I will definitely look at the 3rd party threaded aluminum plugs designed to completely stop this problem. Safe riding!

@@kxnrxd4908 it was $1030 oo repair total. they said they had to remove the engine from the frame. the upside, everything is working perfectly now and no leaks.

@@PhilHewkin keep your receipts haha! hopefully your issue is fixed though in all seriousness!

So after 2 times using permatex red and it leaked after a couple of weeks. Has anyone tried a better gasket maker with success?

@@brucebenioff I have a theory. Check your air filter. If you can not. See sunlight through it, it is plugged up, and needs replacement. I suspect that the engine is pulling oil into the cylinder, and burning it as well as pushing it out the head. I have seen many cars and trucks do the same, owner thinks engine is pooched, changes air filter, engine runs as new, no more oil leak or burn.

23,000+

yeah my oem petcock failed at 10k.

This completely fixed my (very severe) oil leak. I can’t guarantee this is your problem, but it is a very common one.

And again, I’ve only ridden it another three weeks… so I can’t speak for longevity yet. I’m not sure about the cost of those kits, but I would definitely consider one. Mechanic I mentioned in the video had allegedly applied sealant to this plug mid 2020… and when I picked it apart, there wasn’t any

@@kxnrxd4908 I sealed the old plug with red permatex the I used a new plug. Neither worked.

I suggest getting the new replacement plug because it's made of better material that's less prone to warping/shrinking/distorting from heat cycling.

The first time I sealed the old plug with red permitex. Than AS PER Suzuki repair manual I replaced the rubber plug over the head bold closest to the exhaust. The Red was applied as permitex instructions a small spaghetti like bead on one side all along the valve cover. Not on the plug. This seemed to work until today I opened the bike up and hauled ass for about 3 miles. Leaking all over the rt fins down the side cover. s--t