Відео

Send me an email 😊

I've no idea, sorry. Hopefully someone else can comment?

@@RetroComputingReboot No worries but if you decide to do another video, I'd be curious at the Famicom expansion audio along with any other available cores. I'm also curious if you'd be willing to test and compare the Tang Nano 20K Retro Kit. Right now there's a NES & SNES cores and the dev nand2mario has a bunch of features for the TANG boards. Thank you!

@jeremy__hopkins Hey Jeremy. I can't keep up with you 😂 I hadn't even heard of the Tang Nano. I feel ill probably want one though when I get chance to Google it 😂

Hi, thanks for the question. Unfortunately it's single player only. The two ports are so that you can use either a NES controller OR a SNES controller, depending on your preference.

@@RetroComputingReboot hopefully there would be 2 player compatibility So a new generation of famiclone would be there

I guess you could change the ports without too much of an issue, but not sure how you would connect it to a crt for the light gun

I think the emulation is spot on. People commented that Super Mario ran a bit fast but that was probably due to using an NTSC ROM. Sound was brilliant. Just like the original. There was graphical glitches on one or two games I tried but this was probably due to the Arduino being over clocked. On balance, it's cheap and brilliant fun 😁

@@RetroComputingReboot Have you tried checking the percentage of RAM and CPU usage of the Raspberry Pico system? Do Raspberry Pico generate a lot of heat during NES emulation?

@admunt1577 No to be fair I havnt checked these. I suspect with it being over clocked it will be utilised pretty high, probably a bit warmer too. I havnt come across anyone saying they've had failures though. Plus they are that cheap, it would just be a bit of inconvenience swapping over and reflashing

No I don't think there is a save feature, not that I found anyway

Thanks for the comment Michael. I have a couple of Raspberry Pi's but havnt really done much with them other than using them as media centres

@RetroComputingReboot I finally got Windows 11 on Raspberry PI 4B and PI400 tonight. Just working on updates. I will let you know if it can run anything.

@michaeldemers2716 😂 fab

Hi, yes it does. The 6502 is the instruction set that it runs but the Ricoh ZA03 is the model of CPU en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ricoh_2A03

Thanks for the comment. I read up on it. I hadn't realised at the time it was over clocked 👍

Hi Harley. I'm glad you enjoyed the vid. I get your point with the Pi Zero. But if you did that with RetroPie, unless I'm mistaken, you'd be having to use USB controllers rather than the Nintendo ones. On file sizes, you may be surprised just how large some of the game files really are. Certainly there are some small ones but plenty well above 32k. I guess the beauty of projects like this is there's something to suit pretty much everyone

​@@RetroComputingRebootWhat's the maximum ROM size supported by the emulator? I'd expect maybe 128KB at most, probably less if it uses a full framebuffer.

@espfusion Ive had a good look but I don't actually know. I can't find any reference in the release notes. Anyone else know?

Totally agree. It's an amazing little thing. A £3 microcontroller at its best! 😁

Have you tried different TVs? I had issues with an old LCD but worked fine on more modern TVs

Hey Philip. A big welcome.from the UK. I really appreciate the sub and will work hard to keep it 😊

It's an interesting idea and I don't know if anyone has managed it to date. It's way beyond my skill set though 😁

@@RetroComputingReboot yeah, it should be effort of a community clearly ... with 8gb emmc you could have enough space for any modern retrostyle game ... needed would be publish open hardware fot the slot , I miss commodore 64 cassettes market ... :)

There's probably not much of a market for building a NES with a cartridge slot as there are so many clones of these and easy to buy

They really are brilliant. I lost three days to mine playing instead of making a video on it 😂

Me too

​@@RetroComputingReboot I'll be getting one ASAP

Where can I get one?😢

I think you will have to follow the build guide and make one 😊

Thank you so much for the comment. I really appreciate that 😊

Thanks, really appreciate that. Never too late to the party 😁

You might be right, although I hadn't noticed it playing it. Great fun either way 😊

It’s definitely too quick.

yeah, it's evident when you know the game

@@elude3808 It did feel quick but input it down to me being rubbish and trying to play it from a funny angle 😂. If you're a Super Mario fan, I've a video planned for next month that you might like 😊

@@RetroComputingReboot nice!

Thanks Frank 😊

Thanks Dave. I really appreciate the feedback. I've a funny feeling I know what the issue was. I record everything using my phone in 4K. This can cause it to overheat, and when it does it can cause the audio to glitch. I think on top of that, with the microphone clip broken, I wasn't holding it in a good position. I really appreciate your perseverance though, as bad audio is off-putting.

I think you're probably right. It's a shame I have to play it downstairs on the big TV 😂

@@RetroComputingReboot 😂

Zipsticks are still the best 😁

Thanks Jim. I really appreciate the comment. All the best

Thank for the comment. I realise you could fit two drives in the Megafile

The cheap solder out had barely had any flux which meant I always had to add loads of flux. The new solder I got is really good, there's loads of flux in it. It seems to be making good joints and flowing well so I'm going to see how it goes without adding more

Thanks Brian. I really appreciate the sub and comment. I had to Google what those tips were 😂. I haven't used a BC2 tip. Is the idea there it sits nicely around the component leg? I've definitely used the BC3 tips. They have worked quite well for me when I have but for reasons I can't really explain, I've gravitated to a preference of the chisel tip 😂

Yes, exactly. I find you can get closer to the joint because of the sharper angle. I prefer a BC3 because it's thicker, offering more thermal mass, and doesn't lose it's temperature to the board as quickly. As you are probably aware, ground plane joints can be troublesome in this regard.

@brianparr988 I have tried the BC3's for stuff on ground planes and I totally agree they work much better for that. Its just a pain swapping over the tips as it's just usually one or two joints I need to to so being lazy I usually just struggle with a chisel tip 😂. However, that might change as one of my subscribers reached out and is very kindly sending me a T12 setup 😊

T12s are awesome! They cool down really quick, so easily swappable. You'll fall for it in a heartbeat. 😃

@brianparr988 I'm looking forward to trying one 😊

I think the element is ok. I was considering that as a possible issue though, but when I swapped the tips over between the Yihua 968 and the little Yihua station I have, the problems followed the tip if that makes sense 😊

Someone suggested on Facebook that NASA engineers use blue roll instead of a sponge. I'm going to give that a whirl. Even if it's rubbish, it will come in handy for many other things 😀

I love all that Ian 😁. I don't have any copper foil, but I'm going to see how the drink cans perform, but take all the coatings off next time. Someone mention d the coatings would affect heat transfer, which makes sense! I love the idea of making some tip tinner! I was looking for some use for my crappy old solder. I might even do a video on that as I'm super curious to give it a try 😁. Many thanks for taking the time to comment. I love reading them and really appreciate suggestions like this 😊

I've seen the 982. It looks pretty good. Ill be the first to admit I'm a bit of a Yihua fan. Everything I've had of theirs has worked really well, apart from issues with the iron which has been down to the generic tips I bought for it. I think for the price, they do some great stuff. But then again, I don't have any expensive stuff to compare with. That said, they do the job 😊

@@RetroComputingReboot Those type of irens you have are veery slow at heating up. Thge Yihua 982 with the JBC style tips heat up around 5 - 6 seconds and ready to start soldering. I found hte cheap T12 irons are quick heaters and plenty of styles of tips. I have made a few of the kits and 3d printed cases for them instead of buying them. They are cheap, reliable and good to use. But, the Yihua 982 has to be my fave now. I had 3 of the T12's set up on a shelf and always had my goto one and didnt use the others at all. I taught myself to solder as I couldnt if it meant it would save my life before. I found out by error how to make sure a tip was clean, tin it before putting the tip to a piece then applying the wire. I could solder printed boards, but I couldnt tin wire. I was doing it wrong or not manage at all. Now with the 982, I am finding it easy. I have a tube of flux but hardly use it. I have a lot of soldering wire that I bought from China, supposed ot be flux cored, but haedly any flux in it, and I have my goto wire which is silverline. Cheap, but has good flux core and leaded.

@ianallen2 I do fancy a 982. I think in reality though it would wipe out my budget for these vids for some time. But who knows, I love new stuff 😂 There's a certain joy to soldering when it goes well. It's one of them things that seems incredibly simple, which it sort of is, but there is a real skill to it that I'm still learning to master 😊

360 seems to work well for me. No damage whatsoever (yet) 😂

Thanks Dripcode. I hope sharing my issues helps someone out there 😊

REMEMBER, all parts have a tolerance! If the cap are 5%, that is +/- 0.8pF, i.e. 15.2pF to 16.8pF range! If it's 10% double that range! VERY FEW circuits require caps in high precision, so again, I suspect that regular 15pF could be fine.

In most cases I'd agree. However, the specs were for 16pf on a 5% tolerance. Using a 15 pf would be outside this. Especially bearing in mind the tolerance is plus or minus, so with the 15, that could pull the value even lower

@@RetroComputingReboot I get your point, so what is the circuit, because I bet 999 to 1 odds 15pf at -5% would be just fine. I would love to see the circuit, because I bet 999:1 odds 15pf would be fine, maybe even at -10% down. It's two caps, so maybe as part of a xtal oscillator, in which case 15pf would absolutely be fine.

@stevenbliss989 I did think of winging it with a 15pf but apparently it's part of the clock circuit so it's quite fussy. I can't confirm this but didn't seem worth the risk

@@RetroComputingReboot What kind of "clock". If CPU clock with a ceramic resonator or quartz crystal, then 15pF would be fine.

a - for effort? 😁

@@RetroComputingReboot TYPO ...sort of. But this video is indeed A for effort AND A- for results! :)

@stevenbliss989 Thanks Steven. I always wonder if I'm going.to get a panning in the comments. I appreciate your support more than you realise

It was sarcasm. If you watch my videos I don't take myself that seriously 😊

@@RetroComputingReboot thank goodness, there I thought we lost another one to the stupid trends!

I've never been trendy 😂

@@RetroComputingReboot stylish over trendy always wins!

It's funny you should say that. I was just thinking I'm not a particular fan of the cutters I'm using

@@RetroComputingReboot I recommended Plato because they're cheap. But looking at them today they're not as cheap as they used to be. Back in the day a pair just cost a few dollars. They're the ubiquitous model of flush cutters. Plato 170s. What they cost now I might consider other brands? With Platos you just clip boards with them. Although some people have a pair they abuse. Do all the things you want to do with them but shouldn't.

@1pcfred I looked them up. They don't seem bad price wise. On eBay for around £5 which seems reasonable. I like the idea of the narrow jaws too. The cutters I use can be a pain to get in between legs

@@RetroComputingReboot ebay they're all counterfeit from China. Plato 170s are heavily knocked off. When a tool is that popular there's no getting around it. The manufacturer is aware of it. But they're not making it easy for anyone to buy the real deal. They only sell in packs of 10 minimum and you sure don't need 10 pairs. So I can't tell you to just go there and get them. If I was you I'd contact them and see what they can do for you. They might just send you a pair for free? If you give them a good enough sob story. Because I tried to find an authorized retailer for you and I got the runaround on their website. I kept going back to the same location page. So that's a problem. Or maybe they can divulge the great secret of who this distributor is? But if you can't be bothered with any of this you can get fakes real cheap on aliexpress. Everything on the Internet is going to be fake. Amazon, ebay, ali, all of that is fake. £5 it's definitely a fake. Too much for a fake too. It should be more like £2 Real ones if you can get them are going to be at least £10 is my guess. Because real ones are $7.75 USD You got VAT and what have you. You're going to pay more there.

Thanks Paul. I appreciate the advice. It's all a learning curve 😊. I'm trying to heat the pad and the leg simultaneously but yes I'm drawn to touch the solder onto the iron 😁. Old habits and all that. I'm working on it though, I'm seeing much better joints now which is great 😃

@@RetroComputingReboot I made the comment after watching you solder the first joint but then watching the rest of the video you were getting it. Maybe not every time but some good technique. Soldering is pretty simple but there's a bit to it. And yeah throw that cheap roll of solder you have away. Those dark dull joints it makes are not right. They made that stuff out of old used tire weights or something. 63/37 is the best solder. That's the eutectic solder. 60/40 is garden variety. But good 60/40 is better than that other stuff you got. Get rid of it. The new stuff flows way better and you're getting shiny joints. Good solder is worth the price. China strikes again!

@1pcfred Thanks Paul. I do try. I think the thing with soldering is that it does seem very simple, but there's actually quite a bit to it. Any ideas on what to do with the old solder? I can't bring myself to just chuck it out 😂

@@RetroComputingReboot I was thinking about that and the only thing I've ever used solder for other than soldering is tying up test leads. But it being solder I may use those little bits of solder to solder with. You can't take the chance of taking any of that solder off the roll. You must never use that to try to solder with ever again. It's that bad. Really you should enase it in plastic and leave it on your shelf as an object lesson. That roll is a teachable moment. It showed me something I've never seen before. The dark side of soldering. I will never buy solder from China, ever. I don't care if the good stuff is $50 a roll I'll pay it. I guess you could make fishing weights out of the stuff. If you don't mind poisoning the environment. Because God knows what that solder actually is. It can't just be tin and lead I can tell you that. Take it somewhere where they can analyze it. Gift it to someone you hate. That stuff is evil though.

@1pcfred 'Gift it to someone you hate' 😂 that really made me laugh. For the moment it will sit on a shelf. I've a nasty habit of getting rid of stuff and then finding a really good use for it and wishing I hadn't 😂. It won't be used for soldering though, that's for sure 😁

Thanks for the comment. Yes, the T12 is on my list of things to try 😊

Thanks Artur. Take each day as it comes. Remember, you aren't alone, and there's tons of people out there that do care

Thanks for the comment. Yes I'm sure there is some good cheap solder out there, but I've just never come across any. At least buying some branded stuff should give consistent quality. I do like the look of the direct heating irons. I have had a look at them. I might get one at some point once my budget allows, but for now this iron I have seems to be doing pretty well 😁

Thanks for the comment. Yes, a lot of my soldering is work in progress. I'm trying out new stuff and seeing how it works for me. I have previously soldered the majority of stuff at 340C. I might try turning it down a bit from 360 with the new solder I'm using. I really appreciate the support though. Thank you

Yes I was considering redoing the previous joints 😁