Removing through hole IC's with HOT AIR
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Lets see how good a hot air station is at removing through hole components from a PCB. Will it work? Will it cause damage? Lets find out
And lets have a look at the YIHUA 968DA+ III whilst we are at it :-)
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Interesting technique to remove the chips. I personally use the desoldering gun at 350C and then use the hot air, afain at 350C from the top with screw driver that has a hook. This will ensure that the screw driver doesn't damage a trace. Just use the screw driver gently. I never go over 350C as too much heat will damage the board. This works very well for me. Thanks for sharing your experience!!
Thanks for commenting. I just thought I'd give it a try on a board that didn't matter with a worst case scenario where I've not even made attempts to freshen the solder or remove any of it
@@RetroComputingReboot keep experimenting!
some thick, soft rubber feet on the case may also help with the noise issue.
I hadn't thought about that. I'll have to give that a try if the sound insulation doesn't work. Fortunately all the air intake/exhaust is on the bottom of the unit so I'm hoping for no issues
@@RetroComputingReboot i just thought of something else that may help in reducing the noise.
pop the screws out of the case, and install some fiber/fibre or soft nylon washers between the case and body of the unit. they could also help dampen some of the noise-causing vibrations.
Great job! Looks like a great tool to add to your collection. Should make future repairs easier 🙂. I have no exxperience of this but do you think it might be an idea to somehow cool the chip your extracting? Just wondering if the 300 degree;s might damage the chip your trying to remove?
Hi Barry. Thanks for the comment. I have no idea 😂. It's uncharted territory for me. However, with surface mount ICs they go through worse I suppose?
HI, interesting video. I've seen several you-tubers use a combination of a "Moo Gun" and hot air for stubborn chips. But if you have a method that works, that's all that matters. Not that it matters, but @22.23 is that a break in the tracks of IC12 pin 3? I'm replacing a psu in one of my ST's, thought I'd try a modern Meanwell Rpa-60, so far so good (fingers crossed).
Hi John. Glad you liked it. I'll have to check. With it effectively being a scrap board I didn't give it a really thorough check. I'll let you know
Have you tried the electric vacuum solder pumps? They seems a better option, especially with the new garbage "eco" solder.
Hi thanks for the comment. No I haven't as yet. I am saving up for one though as they do look really useful
Yeah, same here. ALthough (sadly) the days of electronics like in the sinclair's in long gone.See Maplins, Tandy etc for proof of that. I miss transistors, 555s, axial capacitors etc etc...@@RetroComputingReboot
With the age of the stuff I'm working on everything is pretty much all through-hole stuff (although a lot say surface mount is easier) so an electric desolder gun is on my list of things to have.
I do miss Maplins. I remember going there in my teens and buying project kits. I loved putting them together. I loved how they came with everything you needed.
My eyesight is at that annoying point where close up is blurred and my focal point is about an arms length away so im looking at one of the sub 300 quid microscopes. I've done some smd but there isnt anything as satisfying as drawing on copper clad board with either a pen or the transfers and etching with ferric chloride.. Old school...@@RetroComputingReboot
@Cornz38 I can relate to the eyesight. Mines the same. I got some magnifiers to go on my head. I look like I'm from the film 'Honey, I shrunk the kids' 😂
4:43 here are some quick and dirty (but not exact) conversions between _"Freedom Units"_ and logical measurements that you can easily do in your head:
miles ---> Km
miles * 2 then subtract 10% twice
2 miles * 2 becomes 4 then - 10% - 10% = 3.2Km
Km ---> miles
halve, then add 10% twice
4Km / 2 becomes 2.0 then + 10% + 10% = 2.4 miles
foot ---> cm
multiply by 30
1 foot = 30 cm
cm ---> foot
divide by 30
180cm = 6 feet
yard ---> meter
subtract 10%
1 yard = 0.9 meter
meter ---> yard
add 10%
1 meter = 1.1 yards
pounds ---> Kg
halve, then subtract 10%
15lbs / 2 becomes 7.5 - 0.75 = 6.75 Kg
Kg ---> pounds
double, then add 10%
10Kg * 2 becomes 20 + 10% = 22 pounds
ounces ---> grams
multiply by 30 then subtract 10%
5 ounces * 30 becomes 150 - 15 = 135
grams ---> ounces
add 10% then divide by 30
200g + 20 becomes 220, then divide by 30 = 7 ounces, plus a bit
gallon(us) ---> liter
multiply by 4, then subtract 10%
15 gallons * 4 becomes 60 - 6 = 54 liters
quart ---> liter
subtract 10%
1 qt - 10% = 0.9 liters
liter ---> quart
add 10%
5 liters + 0.5 = 5.5 quarts
fahrenheit ---> celsius
subtract 30, then halve, next add 10%
100f - 30 becomes 70, then halve to 35 next add 3.5 = 38c
celsius ---> fahrenheit
subtract 10%, then double, next add 30
15c -1.5 = 13.5 doubled is 27 + 30 = 57f
*_PRE-WATCH PREDICTION :_* yes, but depending on the volume of air and temperature, it culd probably cause a lot of damage to traces and cause collateral damage to parts.
*_EDIT :_* 1:40 ok, for some reason, i had it stuck in my head that you were going to be using a large heat gun. ignore everything i posted above. i desperately need some coffee.
😂
What you do with the screw driver is impractical. I advise you to cut a small copper wire and trance it along the pins of any component from the bottom. Add a bit of solder to the copper wire and and holder the soldering iron on it while maintaining a connection to the IC pins. Magically, you hear the IC drops on the table with any effort.
Muka, thanks for the comment. That sounds really interesting. I've never heard of anything like that before.
So the heat just travels along the copper wire to each pin?
Looks nice with that hot air de soldering, hope it will help you with your future project. If you know a chip is bad, you can always cut the leg's of it, that will ease the job, removing one leg at a time.
Thanks Leo
I have a similar station, and first later, I discovered that there are "transport screws" in the bottom that I needed to take out. That helped a lot on the noise! - I think these screws fixates the pump, so that it is not able to vibrate in its suspension.
Hi Carsten, thanks for the comment. Yes indeed you're quite right. There are transport screws, but I had remembered to take these out. Appreciate your help though