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Sounds killer.. I have a built NA 306 that also sounds pretty angry. Side note: I am trying to find injector data for Ford 36#, Dark Blue tops.. Can you help..?

Where would I find the injector specification sheet for Ford dark blue 36# F4SE-B1A ??

I’ve tried that with mine and it made no difference. My cranking isn’t sluggish, it spins over pretty good but, it just takes 2-3 seconds to fire up.

Anyone have this excel file saved? And could send it to me?

This is great info, I have watched many of your videos and can't thank you enough for this content, it's very helpful. One thing I would love help on and I think would help others is dialing in cranking fuel as well. I know there's another video that covers whether Ford used the Fuel Prime logic or not, however it would be very helpful to see a video on how to dial in cranking fuel. I have not been able to find any videos on this yet and given Ford uses a different measurement in cranking fuel (inj. pw vs. lb/hr), it would be very helpful for a video on that. Thanks again!

The theory is great I have a mild build turbo LS and having a hard time getting it set up right my graph look more like Skittles than 🌈

Well, if my built, cammed, headed, 4.6 2V TPS is out of adjustment by a little ways, the idle sporadically hunts, surges, and dies. Its FINE at any other throttle position, but NOT at idle. I can MAKE the idle do this by purposely adjusting the TPS wrong. Soooo, YES, it CAN and DOES affect the idle...

I wish I had downloaded it when I first found this. Is thus available anywhere else?

Thanks, this will be good to know when I start dicking around with my '82 Capri 5.0RS. I just went through bloody hell with pin46 on a '93 Aerostar 3.0. My original PCM got stuck and had no Comm so I sourced a 'rebuilt' PCM from Blue Streak that turned out to be a core in a new box with 4.8v on the 46 wire and the throttle closed. Boxed it back up and shoved it up Rock Autos ass never to buy anything again from those do-nothing crooks. The solution was to buy a used PCM off a wrecker on eBay with 75k. That's a pretty bad commentary on the auto parts business in this country when a used part is better than fukn Blue Streak or Cardone. I plugged it in just a couple of days ago, ran perfectly and my van exhibited the same symptoms as your Mustang did (ran shitty, backfire out throttle body, no power/acceleration and prior to PCM meltdown was dropping outta OD back to 3rd intermittent). I hope my rant helps somebody cause I wasted a month firing off the parts cannon and $500-$600 for nothing. Did I mention that along with my no Comm PCM I discovered that Rock Auto is a no Comm business model you should stay the fuck away from?

If you have the car idling right, at operating temp, with the IAC disconnected (in other words, you have the throttle body blade set correctly), these numbers are definitely the WRONG advice. If you have the blade set correctly and do this, cold starts will result in the car idling crazy high during the "hold time" because the parked position percentages are in the upper 90s at colder temps. There is no reason you need the IAC park position set that high if your throttle body blade is set correctly

Do you have any info on whether or not this still needs done since holley re-released the 937F kit after it was discontinued for a while? The reason I ask is that I just got my terminator X installed last night, went through the wizard on the included lcd display, and the car idled and revved perfectly - at least when warm. It surged a good bit at first, but I couldn't tell if it was because it was cold (and thus needing these changes described in your video), or if it needed some time to "learn" since it was the very first start with the holley. Will mess with it more over the coming days, but wasn't sure if you had any insight into any changes holley may have made. For what its worth, I did hook up my laptop and it did show GM stepper in the IAC settings. I'll make your changes and try again, but was sort of thinking "If it aint broke don't fix it"

What you failed to mention was that the clutch switch at the clutch pedal and neutral switch in the transmission give the ECU signals between neutral and drive and if you do the math the drive table knocks down the timing a few degrees so when the clutch is pressed and the trans is in gear the timing will decrease a few degrees and when you release the clutch the rpm's ramp up a few degrees to help move the vehicle.... If you set both the same your engine will run hotter plus you'll need to set trans function to no trans controls and no clutch or trans switch.. Anyways I set the positive and negative numbers to 250 rpm's.....When I dump the clutch from a standstill with no gaspedal the car doesnt even bog........ Another thing to note is that one of the biggest issues that plays with a tune making it erratic is the pulsewidth vs voltage setting for the fuel injector... I set the top 4 -5 lines to the top line setting of 0.93675 then the rest to 1 and now I have a steady pulsewidth from 16volts down to 11 volts as my volts are between 14.5 and 13.2 For the spark setting I use the setting from the X3Z bin file with 30.00 degrees in the top two boxes and 15.00 degrees in the lower boxes where theyre zeroed out in the A9L bin file.It makes a world of difference in the shift........ I

My car intermittently hangs stuck at a certain rpm while driving at random times even when cluch is fully pressed. Sometimes, the idle will climb up by itself . The only way to correct these issues is to shut off car and restart. Could the iac possible be the issue? The car is a 1988 with a, Bcam, MAF conversion, t5 conversion A9l ecu .

This video help me for what I was looking for in just 0.01 seconds of the video, Thanks new subs

One helluva instructor.

Hell yeah dude that thing is slick

Hello! i have a 92 fox with a mild sn95 5.0 swapped in it...trying to learn to modify the base terminator x can tune for better start up and rampdown to idle, is this timing table available for download somewhere?? im not sure what levels are considered "safe" throughout the range so im a little hesitant to make changes...also dont want to sacrifice power, Realy enjoy the videos THANK YOU!!

One thing I want to add about all of this info is that when you change camshafts its IMPORTAT to know when the exhaust valve closes and the intake valve opens on crankshaft degrees at the 0.50 I had everything dialed in for idle on my combo but for some odd reason the exhaust smelled gassy and went crazy lean under power but smelled rich.. The stock A9L computer had the injectors spraying the injectors at 3 different degrees as the load and rpm's increase but the number at idle and MFA started at 352 crankshaft degrees. In my combo have a camshaft from an Explorer where the lobe sep. has way less overlap than the stock Mustang GT camshaft to run my Vortec more efficiently for the street and had to change the 352 to 380 and once I did it brought my injectors in phase with my intake valves at idle and low rpms to where the computer could do corrections to the adaptives and make it all jive... .

does this setup work for a single 2 speed fan? i am mostly just concerned about turning off the 1rst speed at 190 but turning on the 2nd speed at say 185. would i simply need to not over lap the settings? example turn off speed 1 at 190 and turn on speed 2 at 191. i currently run a relay setup that steps through based on 2 temp sensors and want to switch to sniper fan control to avoid alt belt slip/screech at start up.

has this been rehosted anywhere or does anyone still have a copy?

ive got a manual car on a terminator thats stalling out after down shifting before going to neutral on approach to a stop. if i just drop it back to to neutral its fine only if i down shift do i have issues

Thanks brother super simple easy video to follow idk why I couldn't think about this but I just changed everything around now also added a prevision for speed myself so fans kick off at 35mph instead of causing turbulence and slowing the air

I just dont know why Matt didnt just tell people who buy a calibrated MAF that they should plug in the numbers given then run whats called the MAF autotune located in the last choice above the MAF transfer settings where you follow the directions then start the vehicle and it custom tailors your MAF flow as the engine is running aswell as sets the new fuel adaptive values.. Another thing I dont see you mention is disabling the MAF backflow clip settings that limits the MAF..... Setting all backflow values to the highest setting of 3.99889 disables this hinderance.. Another thing I never see him cover is the different type of camshafts and how overlap affects the injector timing events and that the A9L is set at 352 degrees with waivering values in the higher load area and with camshafts that have tighter and wider overlaps that in order to get a smoother idle that stays at lambda you must change these values to reflect on your camshaft exhaust valve closing to intake valve opening events instead of changing the MAF transfer settings so you dont get a wet upper plenum from the injectors firing at the wrong time and having other cylinders draw the prematurely injected fuel up into the plenum.. Something else is in ISC gain multiplier vs RPM and that by setting all the values to 2 from top to bottom is the 100% best bet with lumpy cams... and that on Neutral Air RPM you make the 5 seconds 10 seconds increase the rpms to 96 then remove the 200 and 255 second entries and make them 20 and 30 seconds then you remove the 72rpms at the top right and make it a zero..The idle will be alot more smoother and easier to dial in the fuelling afterwards.

AAARghhhhh , my fuel pressure is not dropping when I put the vacuum back on the regulator ; however it's not leaking any fuel there to vacuum . Steady 40 pounds and rich at idle . Gotta change the regulator first . '91 Lincoln Mark vii .

I have to echo what I'm sure everyone else has told you. Thank you so much for helping me through this process. I needed your vids to get to this point, and I'm so thankful for your tutorials. I have tuning experience, but I do feel weary/overwhelmed by the stock tuning. The good news is that my car really runs well on the stock tune, and I'm hoping that loading the base A9L will keep that driveability and allow me to learn slowly & incrementally.

Great video ! I have a set of the ford green top 42 injectors. Still in the box never used. I can’t find any info on these injectors to do custom settings. Do you have any info on these?

Hello. Do you still have a link for the files? I been looking for these. Thank you

I have the DW 1000cc I can't find the off time.They have all the fuel settings I just don't see the off time any idea?

Very useful video, will be implementing this asap, thank you!

thanx ive been on the phone with holley and spal for a week there idiots your worked

great info thank you, will use with my speeduino in Hyundai G4JS turbo project

Is there an updated link to the spreadsheet? Currently shows both links are deleted

Its quite odd that you never mention that ProM has a tool that can recalibrate the MAF to work with different size injectors............

Is this still available? The links no longer work

This is great! Thanks for such a great explanation. Can you create these custom I/Os for Sniper systems as well? We have only done "tuning" with our handheld, but haven't messed with the computer tuning files yet (looks like we need to start😀. Thanks again for a great video!

I wish Matthew was still tuning!! I finally got my car finished and a terminator x installed and now I’m too late

can we still get this i tryed the links but there not working thanks

do you think you could do some MAP tuning videos? I'm working with TunerPro RT and I'm working with a speed density 4.9l on the stock EFI system with emissions deleted /detuned. Lots of information here, I'd just love to have some more insight in the difference for MAP tuning vs MAF

It helped me understand how it works and how to adjust if needed. Can you or have you ever tuned a car with the ACT just sitting on the intake cause they didnt drill it into anywhere after adding a different lower intake?

Love the video bro! Looking the put terminator x on my foxbody 392 stage 1 cam Trickflow 170 heads & Holley system max intake 70 mm throttle body v3 supercharger 12psi. Will 42 pound injectors & 255 fuel pump enough fuel starting out with?

Do you have a updated link to the spreadsheet I can't get it to load?

Hey, great stuff, unfortunately file you have requested does not exist... Could you plz upload once more time, or share the working link with me 😢

I have foxbody sith the terminator x and 19 stock injectors .. it dumped fuel and flooded all cylinders i dont know if i have a stuck injector or bad tune ?

Sure wish you would entertain the Holley line again.

Thank you so much!!!! My garage no longer stinks at start up!

So if I build a timing table like so I wouldn't have to have the ecu take out extra timing per lb of boost correct?

Can i hire you to help me with my timing table on my foxbody with a 347 and single turbo. That's really the only thing I need help with. I want to be safe all the time and I just haven't learned out to do that with boost yet.

Do you have any information about x0x

i have a no start i have the battery on the trunk will this be the issue im going to change this settings to 225 rpms see if it runs

Very informative and useful. Thanks very much.