Відео

Great video, i will be doing the same thing with my TYM 474 cab

dont recognise that type of valve spring tool ? where do you get one of those

Thank You! First one I found to show measurements

What is this? Dry ice? 4:09

Can the check valve cause the compressor to not reach full preasure ?

That's heartbreaking. Takes the wind out of your sails

What primer/paint is used on the bare metal

Your lucky I've done 2 different diffs and have the same problem with the new bearings the original shims will not go in TOO TIGHT. Can't use FSM for the numbers on the case and pinion no longer exist.

it truly is an unfortunate task don't do it yourself if you really have to, pay for someone else to do it

What type of wire wheel was that?

Was the window weld a recommended best practice? I’ll be reinstalling my front and rear soon on my 260z.

I have a 33 gal husky oilless and it builds pressure but takes 15 min to get to 75 out of 150 lbs. Any ideas on what's causing that?

I can tell your not a fan of John Deere, but take heart in the fact that you have an orange Yanmar in JD green. Can't believe that was left out to weather with less than 100 on the clock.

Does any one know if a 280zx 5speed bolt on to 280z???

Great video. Love the detail and the quality camera shots. Subscribed. Looking forward to future videos.

Your attention to detail - is front and center. ‘ Very impressive.

Nice video, saved me some trouble. One comment though. When torquing for the love of everything holy. Stop torquing after the 1st click. You are over torquing when you click it 2-3-4times one is enough 😊

How long doe this bedliner last? Is it at least 99.99% water proof? Can it last 15 years in snow aalt conditions?

Good buy !!! Fix it up !

Should be leading with the brush cutter not the tractor. Cringe

Wear gloves when assembling. I ended up with some metal splinters throughout my hands.

It works if your not planning on rolling it around. Honestly it’s a pile of shit and with a small inverter machine some leads and a 155cf gas cylinder on it. Say about 200-250lbs. It feels like it will collapse when you try to wheel it on a smooth concrete floor. If you have any plans to wheel it outside to weld on your car or something then good luck because I’m willing to bet your going to have a big mess to clean up. This thing should have been rated for 150 lbs max. I bet they gave it a 350 lb rating because it collapsed at 351 lbs sitting still.

It's still going to rust under that stuff only now you won't be able to see it until it's to far gone.

Horribly abused and neglected JD. My gut says leave it there and move on.

Great job, will save and use this as a reference for when I do this on my AE86.

What happens when your pinion preload is way off. I was getting a measurement of 50 in/lbs without the seal

We just inherited a JD 750 that i know absolutely nothing about. Is the bucket removable so other implements can be put in it's place. Or am I expecting too much from such an old tractor? Thanks

So the 68 hours explains the good tread left on the tires however they should be dry rotted from sitting in the sun.

Glad to see you changed the hitch pins to Category 2 and used lynch pins. Looks like you need to get the lights working next. It pays to do things right.

As an old car buff I understand the desire to restore the them to pristine condition. However, as a retired chemist I must point out the dangers involved in some approaches shown in this video. The use of dry ice-solvent mixtures represents a very high risk of explosion and fire. While the liquid portion of these mixtures may be below their flash point, their vapors are not. I know because I witnessed such a fire in which 2 coworkers were horribly burned. Additionally, dispersion of particulates in the air, in combination with various solvents, represents a hazard your lungs. Particulates and most solvents are not effectively removed by filters one can buy over the counter. My recommendation is to take your classic to a professional.

Is that a gas or diesel? If gas what engine? Thank you

Great video man. I'm going Prevost for my paint guns.

I know I am late to the show but could you have gotten the same result of prepping the car by sandblasting it or does the dry ice and sanding get a different result? Not trying to be rude but I’m coming up on that part of the build and looking into my options

Looks like you have lots of fans.

I use the Milton V-style also. I use the brass couplers with brass or steel plugs. I have good luck with them, and they are holding up well.

Did you do a video on the front axle oil or similar and the hydraulic steering cylinder too?

you guys would problably recieve alot more attention and subscribers if you talked over your footage, the music playing over what should be an explanation sucks fyi

To help during my seal replacement I modified the spring compression tool and made the bends much higher up and ground off the forks. This allowed the tool to reach around and under the cam shaft. Much better approach that simplifies getting the keepers out, but more importantly back in. I also added two 3/4 inch strips of wood to each side of the handle to make the process much more controlled and comfortable.

Maaan you need to consider upgrading to a sand blaster it did just hurt me the amount of effort But appreciated ❤

Use a tile rubber float, works like a champ

how many years will it last in the salt belt?

Working on an 87 mk2 golf. Holy shit its the thickest, nastiest, undercoating ever. Such a bitch to remove!

kitty kitty kitty

Introduction way too long

A few notes for the JD 55 series: The loader detaches in about 2 minutes, well worth removing for maintenance or when not needed during other operations. Contrary to what you stated, the hydrostat has it's own pump separate from the hydraulic pump. Someday, the fuel pickup hose in the tank will disintegrate and the engine will starve long before the tank is empty. Replace with a hose intended to be installed in a fuel tank (have had to do this on 2 '55 series JD). You may also want to suck all of the crap out of the bottom of the tank when you do this to save on subsequent fuel filter replacements. Someday, the bracket holding the fuel strainer and that serves as the anchor for the engine end of the throttle cable will crack and fail. You will immediately see power roll back. Weld a small gusset in the corner of the bracket when you repair it. The small brass cable lock on the throttle cable at the injector pump will wear over time and will keep the engine from reaching full throttle - don't mistake this gradual power loss for an engine problem. Power steering hydraulic lines are routed right beside the front axle drive shaft and are a BEAR to replace. Keep an eye on the driveshaft and guard that they are not chafing the PS lines. Clean and lube the hydro pedals linkages regularly and learn what adjustments are needed to stop neutral "creep". Keep the radiator and screen clean, do your other maintenance regularly, and these are a nearly bullet-proof machine. When the hourmeter failed, I installed a small electric hobbs meter, RTV'd it to the top of the fuel tank after removing the fuel spill pan (which I've never missed). Wired it to the fuel shutoff solenoid for positive.

If you bought this for 2K you stole it.

Is there a part two

Maybe to tighten up the chain you can just use a wire feed through 2 links & just twist it, or use a bolt with 2 washers & a nut run through 2 links. (of course leaving a link between the 2 links you run through the wire or bolt through) & just tighten the bolt/nut until it is as tight as you like. Well there is more than one way to skin a cat (fish not house cat). Your review it very nice, (I need the measurement most of all). I just got a Primeweld 225x welder & it's kind of big but it look like it should fit fine. Thanks a lot.

Should have used cement all to finish it off.

That intro video is way too long.