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My Messy Lab
Приєднався 6 кві 2019
My messy lab
Відео
MARANTZ TT520 repair and restoration
Переглядів 1,2 тис.Місяць тому
MARANTZ TT520 repair and restoration
HP 5328B Repair
Переглядів 1,7 тис.2 місяці тому
In this video an HP 5328b universal counter is brought back to working condition from a frozen state
POWER DESIGNS TW5005 resurrection
Переглядів 7483 місяці тому
In this video I'll repair and restore this power supply with possible factory errors
Tektronix Type 134 and P6021 test.
Переглядів 2786 місяців тому
A short functional test for this AC current probe system.
Tektronix 326 Repair and restore of a heavily damage of series 300
Переглядів 8038 місяців тому
A faulty and damaged CRT scope repair.
Tektrinix SC502 Repair and Restore. TM500 Repair-a-Thon.
Переглядів 85410 місяців тому
Bringing back to its formerly glory this neat SC502 oscilloscope
Tektronix DC505A Difficult Repair and Restoration TM500 series repair-a-thon Part 2
Переглядів 1,1 тис.10 місяців тому
Attempting to bring back to life with a very difficult repair this Tektronix DC505a Universal Counter
Tektronix DM501A Repair. TM500 series repair-a-thon PART 1
Переглядів 66310 місяців тому
Tektronix DM501A Repair. TM500 series repair-a-thon PART 1
Tektronix 222A Faulty Channel Repair
Переглядів 64411 місяців тому
A dead channel has required to be creative
Beocenter 2600 a long repair end restoration
Переглядів 89411 місяців тому
A VERY COMPLEX MECHANICAL DISASSEMBLY AND REASSEMBLY MAKES THIS REPAIR VERY TIME CONSUMING
Beogram 1000 Shipment Disaster Repair attempt
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
Attempting to repair a badly damaged very first Bang and Olufsen turntable
Harman Kardon 330c. Trying to save a very broken one
Переглядів 763Рік тому
Harman Kardon 330c. Trying to save a very broken one
Harman Kardon HK 825 Preamplifier extensive repair
Переглядів 949Рік тому
Harman Kardon HK 825 Preamplifier extensive repair
Pioneer TX 500A troubleshoot Repair and Restore
Переглядів 500Рік тому
Pioneer TX 500A troubleshoot Repair and Restore
Northern Radio 174 model 1 converter repair and test. AN/FRR-33 Part-6 (manual needed!!)
Переглядів 228Рік тому
Northern Radio 174 model 1 converter repair and test. AN/FRR-33 Part-6 (manual needed!!)
AN/FRR-33 Part 5 remote controls repair and test
Переглядів 304Рік тому
AN/FRR-33 Part 5 remote controls repair and test
R391 Part 4 Fixing all the faults (a lot!)
Переглядів 313Рік тому
R391 Part 4 Fixing all the faults (a lot!)
R-391/URR Restoration Part3. Test and adjustments.
Переглядів 6022 роки тому
R-391/URR Restoration Part3. Test and adjustments.
R-391/URR Restoration Part2. Autotune Repair. The AN/FRR-33 diversity Station Reviving
Переглядів 5882 роки тому
R-391/URR Restoration Part2. Autotune Repair. The AN/FRR-33 diversity Station Reviving
R-391/URR Repair and Restoration Project Part1. The AN/FRR-33 diversity station reviving.
Переглядів 1,1 тис.2 роки тому
R-391/URR Repair and Restoration Project Part1. The AN/FRR-33 diversity station reviving.
Great Work 👍
Wow ! I have the exact same preamp that I bought back in the early to mid 80's.... Took it out of storage and now it is flashing RED.... I wonder what I should do and if it is worth salvaging...
@@ptg01 it’s sound amazingly, it worth the revive for sure. Your probably need a full recap as on mine almost all caps were faulty. 🤞
@@mymessylab Ah... Now I recall why I don't use this as the volume control is EXTREMELY sensitive (does not take but maybe 10 degree rotation for it to be very loud (I have efficient speakers (94db/w/m)
@@ptg01 that probably mean that your power amplifier gain is pretty high. On my setup works ok.
@@mymessylab That makes sense... My power amp is the accompanying HK870 and has been that way since Day 1....
We used the R-390 and R-1051 a lot in the Navy.
@@cw7422 I have all of those, they are different but impressive in their way.
The phono stage on my HK 825 works but not all the time. I do hear the relay click and i can listen to a record. Also when i have my record player into phono input 1, if i switch to phono input 2 i can still hear the record even though it's not connected to input 2! Something has to be shorted across both relays for that?
@@anthonypopovic7626 thanks for your comment. Those relays are well known to be problematic. They are double effect, which mean that to switch they need to be driven on one of the two coils. Driving circuit (as was on mine) can also fail and messing the phono inputs. Check all the components of relays circuitry and their coils continuity with ohmmeter. They can also be mechanically defective. Good luck.
BRAVO!
did you have to discharge any power from the monitor? i thought these old things stored a lot of power!
When I started to work on it was after long time from the last use. BTW, for safety reasons, I’ve checked it and it was fully discharged.
I’ve seen ceramic fuses that color before and also white. They’re generally higher amperage than the clear glass fuses. I’ve bought them in the store before labeled as microwave oven fuses.
Great to see this working. I have one I must repair, too.
Nice i had this one as a child
Excellent cleanup and diagnostics. I’ll have to look for the next part. 👍🏼
I just restored an sc504 and about 20% of the tantalum caps were leaky. I am now restoring another one and almost all the orange 22uf tantalum caps are bad. Nice video!
I bought myself an HP 1651B logic analyzer. Waiting for it to be shipped 😅
I laughed when you opened it up and said, "Oh my goodness" 😄. I have the XL24 and this video has been very helpful indeed. I found it all very stressful though, always thinking that I'm going to snap a piece of irreplaceable vintage plastic. Having to push a screwdriver in and apply pressure to remove pieces seems to be a recipe for disaster. I guess that's the trade-off for not using screws. Luckily, I got away with it this time... nothing broken. With luck, I won't ever have to do it again. Also, I ordered some fireproof sticky-backed foam to replace the slimy goo inside. Anyone acquiring one of these really should remove the foam. It turns into a nasty sticky mess. Mine was so bad it ended up all over the place. Edit: yes, I have ordered new foam, but turns out that the slimy mess was caused by the complete melting of the 'feed roll assembly' rubber rollers. So bad that I could wipe the black goo away (consistency of peanut butter) until I hit the smaller diametre hard plastic core. As there is no such part available on the Internet, this could mean forgetting about this project altogether. It's the single sheet feed ability I needed😥
Thank you for another interesting video. The culprit looks like it might be from steel wool and dropped in through the turntable cutout. As @rlgrlg-oh6cc suggested, it appears that someone atempted to "repair" it by twiddling all the knobs. Regards, David
It really seems a steel wool lint. Thanks David for your comment.
I guess someone was adjusting all of the if cans, etc, trying to solve the problem with the short. Glad you figured it out.
Yes, that is really possible. Thanks for your comment.
I bought 530 for less than 100 working good
Your has been a good deal. 520 is a step higher I believe but was a good deal as well.
I seen german print advertisment 530 was highest model in that range
👍
Master Level diagnostic! That self test pass was a relief.
👍
❤️
Wow! Awesome work 👍. Just subscribed
Thanks for the comment and for subscribing. Appreciated 👍
Nice repair :)
Very nice work finding an unusual failure. I noticed the missing fuse cover early on and when you powered it up assumed you had spotted it too. Hard to imagine that anyone with knowledge of electronics and who would own an instrument such as this would be stupid enough to bypass the mains fuse. Thank you for another interesting repair. Regards, David
Thanks David, I’ve just noticed the missing fuse almost at the end of the video! There are crazy people out there 😬
@@mymessylab You ain't seen nothing yet! The stuff I have seen done by "Pro's" that made much more than I did.... I just don't know HOW these people got their jobs.
Great job on showing that power switch who's the boss!
😉thank you very much.
I have taken toggle switches apart but not ones like that. The last one was an exceptionally well made Alps power switch from a mid-1970s programmable calculator.
👍👍👍
That is the first time I have seen a wet Tantalum fail short, I normally ignore them for shorts because I have never seen one go bad (apart from leaking).
Pretty rare that they fail indeed! Thanks for your comment.
I found a simlilar failure on the "back-plane" of a Tektronix 7403 main-frame once, so they certainly do crop up dead from time to time!. I spent weeks trying to trace this problem (one of the many) but when I looked at it, the cap had destroyed itself. 💣🪖
Same here. I was astonished! Usually it's one of the yellow tantalums. Ya lurn sumting new evri day! 🙃 I LOVE old HP equipment.... at 53 pieces so far, ( all restored ) some ebay flipper will have hit the jackpot when I die! 😁
Not that rare a failure point in the older HP equipment. I have had to change many over the years. You will probably find over the next few hours of running you will have further failures based on my experience. An early way to identify likely failures is with a thermal camera. Karl
@@karlfell3768 Wet slug Tantalums??? That's super rare. I have yet to replace ONE in thousands of pieces. The normal one's yes. Absolutely! All the time.
LOL I was looking at that unit too I think, decided that I didn't NEED another counter.
I wish I could tell that to my stack of non-working spectrum analyzers. The only fully functional one recently decided to fail Amp cal on some of the narrower bandwidths.
Nice find and fix...
Beautiful restoration. Enjoyed watching the whole video. Congrats for your skills! Keep it up
That was really cool, I love he 330c. Please note that this is called a "board" and not a "bird". 🦤
😂.. thank you very much for your comment..
Nice work!
The CRT for this model was provided by Sony (not built by Tektronix) The default type is 154-0667-00 with P31 phosphor (green florescence and green phosphorescence), medium short persistence. There was a special order version (154-0667-03) with P7 Phosphor. blue-white florescence and green=yellow phosphorescence), very longt persistence. You may have already noticed this during your testing. The CRT gun and electrical specs are identical.
Meticulous trouble shooting with interesting use of equipment... Very nice!
Very nice repair; well thought out logical approached, BROVO!
Another great repair at the Messy Lab! Your methodical process is fun to follow and the gear is always interesting. Thanks! - jrh
Thanks for the comment.!!
Hi! Nice project. Quick question. Do you know wich model is the PRE amp that goes with the SA series?
I had a great encounter with my 8350B and later on, with a 83592A 20 gig plugin. I'll listen to your video carefully and then I'll coment more. It is a nice instrument by the way, I love it. :)
Ni-Cad battery pack in these models is like a cancer. In my unit it causes an imperceptible short in the motherboard, under the regulator board connector. I have to cut and file a ground track because leaked acid causes it to separates from pcb and make contact (and short) with the connector pins. That was a nightmare to found. I had to complete dismount the unit, every chassis bit, to wash and sand corrosion (white dust in aluminium parts). I was lucky enough with molex connectores and band cables, no corrosion there. But the only part without corrosion :D Hard work but now my oscillator could be considered brand new haha
Really good job to get the instrument working!
Thank you for another very interesting repair video. I hope you are able to find a reasonably priced plug-in for this fine instrument. Regards, David
Thanks! Indeed they are priced quite a bit.
Great✌
how do you think this compares to the sansui 221 receiver?
Unfortunately I didn’t have the chance to work onto Sansui receivers, yet.
Didn't get a chance to watch the full video yet but do plan to when time permits. So in case you didn't point this out, that gunk is glue and not the capacitors leaking. Over time the glue becomes corrosive, so it all needs to go. My unit had that stuff on all the black wire cables inside too right at where they solder into PCB. Those connections were also corroding so I had to cut them off, re-strip the ends and solder back in. I recapped the whole preamp using mostly Elac audio caps which is what was originally in the unit. This preamp is well worth the effort! It sounds fantastic! As far as the relays, see my post to DS-bi3fz where I explain what causes the relays to burn up due to leaky 2SC2603 transistors. I was able to rewind my relays. If you decide to go that route, be very careful removing the relays. The pins break very easilly.
In this case we had transistors and diode failure which however didn’t blown the relays coils. On one relay a mechanical error (design flaw) has caused the ripping of contact shell. I’ve fixed that adding a small rubber pad has limited the stroke and dampened the action. If you watch the full video you’ll find how I did it. The preamp it’s sounding amazingly after the full recap with audio grade Nichicon caps.
Nice save! always enjoy following you in your process, thanks for the content.-jrh
great job on a fine preamp with full descret circuitry. I am thinking of getting one. Any advice?
Thanks for your comments. I’ve not a great experience on preamps, I regularly use this HK an a Pioneer C21. They both are without ICs and sound pretty well.
Nice work 👍
Thanks again for your outstanding work! I love that you will go the 9th degree to restore your projects. It reveals a deep understanding of electronics in your work.
Many thanks!
Very interesting. Thank you very much!
Thank you for your comment.
Thank you very much there! Beautiful country yours, which unfortunately I never been. Greeting from Italy.
Well done. You always go well beyond with your repairs and restoration. Cheers from Australia.
Very well done! It's always a pleasure to watch you work through problems and find solutions. I look forward to see it in operation on your upcoming projects. Regards, David
Thanks David for your gentle words. It will takes a bit but I’m already working on that.
Excellent job! It looks incredible compared to the way you received it! Also, very good diagnostic on the electronic issues and the wrong pot. A resistor in parallel was the best choice seeing getting a replacement would be very difficult.
Thank you very much for your comment. Indeed those pots are unobtainable.