Відео

I am not aware if ASUS has a memory timing preset feature in any motherboard; I have never come across anything similar

Yes, it may help, High voltage and untamed cpu clocks will cause instability. It's actually a main cause for many gaming crashes for new Intel CPUs in the 13th and 14th generations

Perhaps there's a charge limiter enabled by default in the BIOS www.reddit.com/r/LegionGo/s/GBwrf4vwwK This post talks about others too having 80% after bios reset

Thanks, glad you subscribed 🫡

Who told you it's 200 ms? That's absolutely not the case! I don't know the exact response time, but to me, it's instantaneously responsive. However, I don't think it's 1 ms, maybe 4-5 ms in gaming mode, unsure For competitive gaming, I think an IPS or TN panel could be a good option. It depends on whether you are used to a very responsive panel

you use a 65" as a desk monitor? I'm impressed. How far do you sit away from it? here I thought anything more than 42 or even 48 is too big for a monitor 😆

The next time I release something, it will be about Ally X, maybe a series of them Thanks for waiting 🤗

@@TECHOSAUR what is ally x??🤔🤔

A gaming handheld PC by ASUS Check it out, it's amazing

@@TECHOSAUR maybe Legion Go too? Of course, if you have something useful to add to your previous videos...

If u can get x870 tachyon ❤❤❤ Ooooh We will have a lot of fun in the channel I want 9000mhz oc 😂😂😂

That sounds good! I've never tried an AORUS mb. I'm leaning toward trying a different brand to explore what they've got. A 9000 MHz sounds wild bro 😂 just waiting to see what they will release by end of month

@@TECHOSAUR i asked buildzoid before about his favourite amd mb for ram oc And he told me that his best results was with aorus

That's right. I'm undecided between Asus or Aorus Also check that asus 870E hero has done some things to improve RAM OC

@@TECHOSAUR man from all bad reviews about asus I trust them no more For now at least If u want asus wat for the x870 gene We want to try two dimm ram oc For now i only trust mst specialy ace or i hope they return the unify x But if u can get a tachyon dont think twice it was impossible to have the b650e tachyon

Glass

Thanks,pal! Knowing this pleases me You guys deserve the best, and I strive to meet that expectation 🙂

It's coming, bro. There's a slight delay. I apologize, but it's on its way. I never forget my dear handheld users 🤗

I have the ACE. I think 170W is the default, but a lower setting may yield lower performance but lower temperatures. I think it's good when you have limited cooling or a small case build

@@TECHOSAUR stock is 120. The option for 170 is there though. 170 is the stock for the standard 7950X.

@@Paradigmfusion Apologies for the confusion. It sounds unusual to have a 170W option for 7950X3D, if its max TDP is 120W. I’m not sure what would happen if you set it to 170W, but it’s unlikely the CPU would exceed its maximum power limit did you try it ?

@@TECHOSAUR nope, too scared lol

Glad to help, good combo! Please share your final curve shaper points. It could be interesting to see what others are experiencing. Just to confirm that I have my max ones on -13 as said before in the video. -12 or -13 are stable for me. Currently, I have it on -13 and it's fine. Going beyond that seems to cause freezing

⁠I sure will. I am not exactly sure I completely understand the curve shaping but going to start with some of your settings as a baseline and go from there. Just curious, are you on the latest beta bios now or latest official bios?

I was able to set my shaper to -30 low/-25 med/-20 high. Cin R23 getting 44500 score. Avg 5.2-5.6 across ccd’s on the cores. Temps are still up there but average went down. I can get a higher score with more but liking the lower temp average. Seems I did get a good chip. Thank you again!

I use MSI Afterburner + RivaTuner to monitor all metrics you can install them both for free, they're the standard for measurement! you can also use RivaTunner as standalone to display stats from other software like Aida64, HWiNFO, afterburner, intel presentmon

@@TECHOSAUR thank you

Yes, since you do not need the iGPU at all in this case, allocating all power to the CPU will minimize CPU bottlenecking in your discrete GPU setup. Good strategy

I'll try, but there's a slim chance because I usually review within my budget and things I may use. Going with many models will bankrupt me the next day. 😐 But I promise to try scaling things up. It may take some time, but your support will accelerate the channel's goals! I'll keep ur request saved

@@TECHOSAUR great to hear to your heart touching response Br , this model looks like a real competitor for Samsung QN 90 series design wise and affordability People saying its Quality good . I am looking forward to seeing yours 🤝

@@ThamilNesan Thanks I'll do my best to review it 🤞

@@suuus4861 yw 🙂

I noticed some poor optimization in some games for the 9950X. We should give it some time to be updated. On CPU benchmarks, it's very powerful and shows big changes, but in gaming, nothing is worth noting

Around 3-5°C. But the best part was cooling the chassis and display I've yet to try it on the ally x What do u mean by custom lids ?

Thanks ill consider !

that's precious feedback. I'll try to practice it

Asus is a bit tricky because they have their own exclusive boosting features, and often times they can hinder your manual tweaking. I think you have a multi-core enhancement feature in the BIOS. For another user, after setting it to the worst-case scenario, he was able to undervolt and noticed a significant temperature drop. Another user had the best-case scenario option working for him. I would suggest you try this one and see how it changes when undervolting in XTU, or if you notice a temperature drop and decent clock speed. I think going from 5.6 to 5.5 with a 10-degree temperature drop (like being able to reduce the voltage thanks to lower frequency) is a better trade-off because consistent performance is better than spiking 5.6 for a second and triggering thermal throttling (low ratio hurts your performance consistently). I don't know about faulty BIOS versions for Asus, but do you have the latest microcode update installed?

Try capping it using RivaTuner, works well

@@TECHOSAUR it improved 1%lows by like 5 but its still around 50

It's a good upgrade. I never had the 7800X3D, I know it's very powerful for gaming. However, outside of gaming, it's somewhat lacking. The 7950X3D should offer the best of both worlds, but using PBO is good to gain some free performance, it's not so hard to setup as intel

Thanks for your input. I recently compared the QN90D to the C4. ua-cam.com/video/YpIIazzqvMw/v-deo.htmlsi=wBqtYY5mutATaHFO Part 7:31 focuses on the viewing angles. You can see that on the C4, no matter how we sit or move, colors and brightness hardly change, while on the QN90D, it shifts just like any VA panel. I don't recommend using it at all while sitting at an angle; it destroys quality 100%, and the image looks horrible. Human skin looks desaturated, like super pale, and all the beautiful colors you could see while sitting in front suddenly become ugly and washed out, and you even see white halos from text weird stuff to say the least. While I know you are interested in the QN90C versus the QN90D in this regard, I can 100% tell you that they're the same in viewing angles, panel coating, and most of the physical appearance. I hope to help, but I don't recommend getting this TV if you care about viewing angles. As for me, I don't care because I use it as a personal desk case, so I sit in front and don't care what quality others see up, down, left, or right 😜 Please let me know if you have any questions

@@TECHOSAUR Thank you for getting back to me, i'm not sure if I communicated my question here effectively. What I meant was if you are seated looking at the centre of the screen from 1-2m away, is there any shifting in colour or blacks if you just shift your head a bit to either side of the screen? In other words I don't really care about having great off-angle picture quality but it should at least have decent colour and near black uniformity over the entire screen when viewed from the ideal seating position, centre or just slightly left or right of centre even. How is the colour and grey uniformity over the entire screen in real content from the centre, ideal position and only the ideal position? Is what i'm asking. 😀

@barryjones2366 I sit over a meter away and I can firmly say that viewing quality never changes as long as you are centered. Of course, not being accurately in the center is also fine. Things get bad if you sit at, like, a 45-degree angle. I don't know your standards for calling a beautiful image; each person could have a different opinion, but to me, personally, it's lovely and goes with my way of calling it a nice image, not 100%, but I never feel like, "What a horrible display or image it is!" Just make sure you follow my settings. I'm not saying this out of being a know-it-all, but because if you don't make those changes, I would give the quality a 50%. So, in order to get the experience I'm describing, you need to use the settings I've applied then ofc decide what's good for you On my QN90D display, I don't see any bad uniformity or dirty screen, while on the QN90C, I've seen it. I don't know if this new series got upgraded control over those issues. Also, the panel color tone is way more factory-calibrated. I can't help but feel that this generation is getting more quality control checks because on mine, I don't see any gray smudges or bad uniformity. It's hard to say 100% pure, but it's easily a 9/10 for this. I hope it was useful, please don't hesitate to ask anything about it, I feel happy to answer and make sure you learn about it

@@TECHOSAUR Thanks, maybe it's best explained this way, VA panels normally have terrible viewing angles and from viewing them close up they are especially bad (like my 43QN90B that I use for a PC monitor) so even when viewing it from the centre position there is an effect that happens called vignetting, where the edges of the display are less saturated and has more lifted blacks than the middle. In fact the centre part of the screen normally has black crush and as you look from the centre towards the edges the blacks get more lifted and colours less saturated....even when viewing from the centre. This is not ideal and is why one of the main reasons IPS panels are preferred over VA for PC monitors. Yeah so what I wanted to know is, is the screens colours and greys uniform across the whole screen from the centre position with the new wide angle layer? You can check by moving to the left or right side of the screen (still fairly centred but just centred more on the right/left side of the screen instead of dead centre). And notice does the pictures colour saturation increase and greys darken at the edges of the screen or stay the same from 1-2m away running real content of course? You just need to rock back and forth between the 2 positions (with content paused) and notice do the colours become more and less saturated depending on the position of your head and during darker scenes with grey in them, do those areas go from darker to lighter? Oh I forgot to mention you should look at the same spot on the TV from the centre and edge to notice if there is any change, so you're testing the colour and grey uniformity to see if it is actually uniform across the whole screen, so no dramatic shifts in it's characteristics. To do this you can look at the right/left side of the screen (right/left edge) from the centre then move your head or chair so you align with that side of the screen (so you are centred on that side of the screen) you may have to do this a few times with different scenes and see if you notice any changes like those mentioned above. 😀 There could only be subtle differences or dramatic differences you never noticed before doing this test, I normally test with a darker scene to test the grey shift and something with a bit of colour to notice the colour shift. Hope that explains it better. If there is no grey or colour shift from different positions then that means you have got a really uniform screen (nothing to do with DSE) from the wide angle layer they added. To at least give you a decent viewing angle from the centre position so the screen is more colour and grey consistent and uniform across the entire screen.

Your motherboard is quite good! Are you using Precision Boost Overdrive (PBO)? While the Tomahawk has a 14+2+1 power phase design, the ACE boasts 22+2+1, which should provide more stable OC performance, but if you are not overclocking I see both functioning in the same manner I don’t have a Tomahawk to directly compare OC capabilities, but as someone who's used the ACE for about two years, I find it reliable now I have 9950X installed and it has all the support and PBO Curve Shaper, etc you can check the video here : ua-cam.com/video/R1rzDdoVyPg/v-deo.html you may find some settings similar to your board so feel free to try them out I got Cinebench R23 from 41000 to 45000 cinebench 2024 from 2375 to 2500 it's super stable and that's why I said it's reliable because once you set it up correctly you don't get headaches

@@TECHOSAUR Yes, I am using MSI BIOS OC presets. My Ryzen 9 7950X CPU is quite stable with Enhanced Mode 3. I can also reach Enhanced Mode Boot 3 and 4, but sometimes it’s a bit unstable. I also used your custom OC profile, and it works well. Anyway, I keep my CPU temperature at 85°C, which I think is useful for CPU lifespan. I used the latest BIOS version (9000 series) on my MAG X670E TOMAHAWK WIFI, but after long rendering sessions, my PC sometimes stays on the RAM debug (orange light) when I try to restart PC. After downgrading to BIOS version 7E12v14 (the last BIOS version of the 7000 series), it works more stably for me.

Thank you! 👍 I noticed a solid 20% boost in raw CPU performance going from 7950X3D to the 9950X, based on Cinebench final scores with PBO from 38000 to 45000. That’s a pretty decent improvement! I highly recommend enabling PBO, as it can give you an extra 10% boost on top of that hope they make more optimizations to improve gaming performance as well

@@TECHOSAUR thanks for extra recommendations! And special thanks for all your handheld consoles tuning videos with memory timings and other useful stuff!

Did you change the load line calibration in your motherboard BIOS? In MSI bios there are 8 modes and usually 4-5 are optimal

Yes, you can do it in the Legion Go BIOS menu. Go to Advanced; there's a Reset Settings to Default option that resets all BIOS back to factory settings

I think it also had to do with optimization. It may improve after a few updates. I noticed this trend with previous Ryzen processors, and AMD may not always announce improved performance, probably after months of release, so as not to seem like a half-baked product, improvements could pass silently. I'll try to check if I notice any changes in the coming weeks

Hey my friend in Poland, 1. In my opinion, the QN90D is the better choice, especially if you're worried about burn-in. With the QN90D, there's no risk of burn-in, even if you keep static images on the screen for extended periods. For example, when I do tests and benchmarks for videos, I often have static windows open for hours. When I do video editing, especially in Premiere Pro, the black background with white elements like text or the video playback window can leave faint shadows if left on for a while. While these shadows eventually fade, it's a sign that I'm pushing the OLED of the C4 a bit too much. If you're using your monitor for static applications for long periods, over time it might degrade the OLED. Additionally, the C4, like the C2, has an automatic dimming feature to protect the screen when static content is displayed. It gradually dims over time, which can be distracting when you're working. You might not even notice it immediately, but after a while, the screen gets darker, and it brightens up again when you interact with it. On the other hand, the QN90D's MiniLEDs are incredibly bright, and the brightness remains consistent regardless of static images or apps. There's no auto-dimming or brightness shifting like on the C4. 2. When it comes to gaming, the C4 does have the edge in terms of deep blacks and overall detail. OLED has individual pixel control, which gives it that signature "pop" and a more three-dimensional look, making objects feel more lifelike. Some users even say it provides a more immersive experience That said, the QN90D shines in terms of brightness and vividness, especially with HDR content. For example, in a game like Horizon Forbidden West on ps5, the stars in the night sky on the QN90D are incredibly bright and magical, creating a fantastic HDR experience. The C4, while excellent with dark scenes, doesn't quite match the QN90D in terms of bright highlights like stars. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference. many consider the C4 better for gaming, others prefer the QN90D. Personally, I lean towards the QN90D because of how stunning the MiniLEDs look, but both are excellent choices depending on what you're after. 3. I’m not sure what you meant by your third question, could you clarify? At the end of the day, both are great options, and it often comes down to the deal you can get. Samsung usually offers better deals and savings, but I’m not sure how it is in Poland. If I had to choose, I'd go with the QN90D, but I totally understand why someone might prefer the C4, it excels in areas like viewing angles, response time, and that immersive 3D feel. Hope this helps you make the best decision for your needs! I'm here whenever u need more info I may soon get the G8 OLED 32" from Samsung, sure a 32" is smaller size but in interested to try QD-OLED for the first time, I was hopping Samsung to release a 42" QD-Oled this year but guess we still need to wait, the 42 OLED they released is not available in the EU and it's using an LG WOLED so it's not their new signature QD-OLED

@@TECHOSAUR Thank you very much! The third question was which TV would show movies like Avatar better and nicer? What elements (like HDR, color depth, color vibrancy, detail) will be better on these models. An additional question: isn't the black in c4 sometimes overwhelming? Like in Cyber ​​Punk, for example? It seems that in 90D, due to this brightening, a bit more detail was visible in the dark background? I have 2 phones, one with an Amoled screen from Samsung and the other P-Oled with a screen from LG. I admit that I am more attracted to a phone with an Oled screen, it is more natural and more detailed, but HDR scenes actually look quite poor and the screen gives the impression of fading colors. that's why sometimes I want to browse the news / tiktok on Samsung I wonder if LG C5 will have MIA. Do you think that MIA would significantly increase the vibrancy of colors and provide the option to make the detail of the background in black more visible in games like Cyber ​​Punk? (In Poland, one portal subtracted c4 points for cutting detail in the darkroom) In general, if we set the HDMI black level to low on a VA matrix in a Samsung, we have a similar effect to an Oled screen, the black is really good (and I have a 10-year-old Samsung TV ) The only problem is that when you set it to low, it cuts out details in dark scenes as if they didn't exist. The lighting effects look amazing, but that's probably because there's less detail on the sides to distract us. The question is whether in c4 it can be somehow compensated in the settings, is there an HDMI black option?

@@TECHOSAUR o and most importantly, is FreeSync in Samsung QN90D also compatible with Nvidia cards?

@@kajobecha it is not certified to be g-sync compatible however, I heard from others that if you enable g-sync in the NVIDIA control panel and limit fps to less than 3 from the max refresh rate, set low latency mode to ultra and enable v-sync in-game those steps enable g-sync on nvidia gpu, what people said that all AMD enabled free sync monitors and TVs could have adaptive sync on nvidia GPU if you do those settings, but some get certificated by Nvidia and become listed as compatible, at least I can tell you that this one isn't G-sync compatible I mean its not listed in the Nvidia list for models, and also when you open control panel and go to g-sync window it doesn't say g-sync compatible but I tried to do those steps I told you about and I actually noticed less tearing with the QN90D by following those steps on RTX 4090

@@TECHOSAUR Thanks ! I will be buying QN92D 43 inches. Today, I was also in stores, especially in the Samsung Center, and the QN certainly did better with the image than the LG oled c3, which was on display in another store. I compared both on the Avatar 4k HDR video. The employee was also very surprised, when I said that I was interested in the LG C4 or as a computer monitor, he was a bit scared and advised against it. He said that sometimes they accept OLEDs under warranty with burn-in... How much does Qn90D cost in your country? (In my country it probably has a slightly different name, because Qn92D) In ​​total, there are 2 LG C4 models available in my country. One with the terminal 45 (this is the more expensive one) and the model with the terminal 41 (the cheaper one) These are the same TVs.

Yes, even Ryzen 5000 to some point. Ryzen CPUs have poor Windows optimization. If they can manage to fix this, we can see noticeable improvement for previous generations too

No they didn't, the 9950X isn't a gaming CPU, it kills in productivity. Also this is a 4K test, need to test in 1080p to find out real results.

No, I bought the small ones you see at the bottom to curve the strip from Amazon. They're simple cable clips. I just stick them on and put the strip over it so it doesn't sag at the bottom Pretty straightforward. I consider it fairly easy overall, and they're still fixed with no issues at all

@@TECHOSAUR thanks ... only hue bridge is enough to use this strip I think .... any other suprıse device is needed for his strips ? hdmi box sych etc.. ?

@aceberganabolic Only the Hue Bridge is needed. You don’t need a sync device unless you want to sync it to a TV. In my case, you saw that Samsung has a native Philips Hue app that takes what’s running on the display and reflects it on the strip. If you have it on a PC, you can download the Hue app, and it automatically syncs it with the strip. The only case you need the sync box is if your TV isn’t a Samsung from the 2022 line or newer and you want to sync it on display without using a PC. But the problem is that the sync box only has HDMI 2.0, so for consoles like PS5 or Xbox Series X, it’s not good if you want 120hz, vrr and their cool features

@@TECHOSAUR it is very kind of you.. thanks for nice valuable information..

@aceberganabolic glad to help my friend 🙂

I'll check and let u know

Idk some people are able to run it, maybe older version before maxon

Thanks for your support, truly appreciate it!