Відео

I used the standard Bambu Studio settings. The angle of the photo and the lighting can be a bit misleading. The print is quite nice.

@@3DPrintLab1 Are u familiar with the P1S? Is it noticeably better? Thanks

@@deeber35 The P1S is a better printer in terms of its features, but I think their print quality is very close to each other.

You are welcome 👋

You're welcome, I'm glad you liked it.

Hi, glad I was of help.

I think your 5th choice is correct 👍😃

Pro 32, 16 Ram which is normal. This affects scanning speed.

Thank you very much 🙏 You can now retire Ender3 :)

You can download here thangs.com/designer/I3D/3d-model/Scorpion-1126444

Thank you very much 🙏

Thank you very much. You can download here makerworld.com/en/models/572411?from=search#profileId-495164

I agree with you about AMS.

Thank you very much. Cleaning is always difficult with resin printers.

Miraco Pro can scan up to 4 meters, but it is not easy to scan large objects in one piece.

do you have a promo code or affiliate code?

@@mave4456 Unfortunately, I don't have :/

Hello, thank you very much for your nice comment. If you are planning to use filaments like ASA or ABS, I would recommend X1C. However, if you are planning to use PLA, PETG or TPU filaments or make small prints with ABS, you can choose A1. I think A1 can be used more for hobby purposes. If you are going to make money from this, X1C offers you a wider range of options.

@@3DPrintLab1 thank you for taking the time to reply to my comment. With your additional input, I have decided to purchase the X1C. I look forward to watching your other videos.

@@peterlepine You're welcome, I'm glad I could help.

You are absolutely right about this. My mistake, I will fix it by pinning it in the comments. Thank you.

@@3DPrintLab1 No problem, we all make mistakes sometimes. Apart from that, great video.

@@beermanuk Thank you so much 🙏

It's definitely time to retire the V3 SE 😄

My first Bambu printer was the X1 Carbon Combo. It is definitely a very good printer. I have been using the A1 and A1 Mini for 1 month and I am very happy with both.

@@3DPrintLab1 ~ if i turn my 🆕 hobby into a business and need more 3-D Printers 🖨️ it’s gonna be another BAMBU LAB machine ~ especially when they release an XL X version!

@@riccaruso7791 Everyone is waiting for an XL printer from Bambu :) But I think a new printer will not come soon, hopefully in 2025. I am currently curious about Creality K2 Plus.

@@riccaruso7791 I think everyone is waiting for an XL printer from Bambu Lab right now :) I'm currently waiting for the K2 Plus with a 350x350 printing area.

How loud is the A1? I was looking into the P1s and I saw it was 65-80 decibels. Seemed kind of loud. The X1c is just a little too expensive for my first printer, which led me to the A1.

Thank you, I will take your suggestion into consideration.

The features of the printers are very similar to each other, but I think K1C is one step ahead.

@@3DPrintLab1 well m8.. the real reason why i'm looking at the k1C is because it looks beautiful... wife has been bitching about my printers being ugly at the living room (i live in a small apartment)

@@plebeiu If you want it to look even better, maybe you can also consider the BambuLab A1 Mini. It's also very cute :) It's also a very quiet printer.

@@3DPrintLab1 I know but bed slingers are so 2014 🤣🤣

@@plebeiu Yes 😄 I have been testing A1 and A1 Mini for 1 month. They are nice printers. I'll post the A1 review next week. Maybe you'll change your mind after watching it :)

Hello, Elegoo Rapid PLA. Grey:)

@@grinchyface The voice is mine, but the video was dubbed with Heygen.

Merhaba, Creality Print kullanıyorum. Direkt cihaz profili olmadığı için CR 10 SE modelini seçip baskı alanını değiştirin. Buradaki ayarların bazıları M4 için fazla. O nedenle İvmelenmede tüm değerleri 700mm/sn2, Jerk(XY) değerlerinin de hepsini 8mm/sn yapın. Baskılarda duvarları 50-75 arası tutun ve dolgularda maksimum 120mm/sn olarak ayarlayın. 0.8mm nozül kullanacaksanız nozül ayarını da değiştirmeyi unutmayın. Bunların haricinde standart profilde başka bir değişiklik yapmadım.

@khaledbousba5957 This 3d scanner would not be suitable for you. I think you can look at the 3d scanner I shared the link to www.shining3ddental.com/solution/aoralscan-3-wireless-intraoral-scanner/

Thank you very much, I'm glad you liked it.

Hi, I don't know about this but why would you want to use Octoprint when you can have Klipper?

thank you, your comment got me unstuck on this, I am looking for a way to send prints to a printer using http requests and found moonraker for klipper

@@radekkomorowski7111 You're welcome, yes Klipper will give you what you want at this point. You can also access the Klipper interface without using another application by typing the IP address of your printer into your browser.

You're welcome, thank you for your nice comment.

Hello, thank you for your criticism. Yes, my native language is not English and this video was dubbed with Heygen AI. Maybe you would like to see my original speech. I am adding the original version of the video below :) If you watch it, I would like to leave a comment on that video :) ua-cam.com/video/9SrO9FQGulM/v-deo.html

Thank you very much, I'm glad you liked the review.

Nylon is a difficult material to print, but not all filaments require high temperatures. For example, Esun can be printed at 260-300 degrees, while BASF can be printed at 220-250 degrees. However, of course, the fact that the nozzle temperature is limited to 280 degrees is a disadvantage for the M5 Pro.

@@3DPrintLab1 Nozzle temperature can be jail braked on regular and klipper flashed machines already but no guarantee on nozzle not melting.

@@juliusvalentinas I understand, thank you for this information.

Yes I am 😄 No, this is just a dub. I dubbed the video with Heygen. You can see the original video from the link below. ua-cam.com/video/ROu6r8HplXg/v-deo.html

Hello, I don't remember exactly because I tried a lot, but you can try with 100% power and 60-120mm/min speed. Frankly, the same goes for other colors. Snapmaker didn't share very clear information on this subject, I could only reach the black acrylic settings. The link I added below may help you. wiki.snapmaker.com/en/snapmaker_ray/manual/recommended_parameters_for_20w_and_40w_laser_modules

Hello, you're welcome, I'm glad you liked the review. It's not easy to scan outdoors. Although the place I scanned was in the shade, it was difficult to scan. In a place with direct sunlight, it would be much more difficult. However, using scanning spray and scanning markers on the surface will make it easier. Another suggestion I have is that scanning can be done in the afternoon instead of during the day.

@@3DPrintLab1 thanks for your answer. So it scans fine in an evening light when the sun isnt right on top? What about under lights in a showroom? or in an exhibition ? when you say its difficult.. do you mean it loses tracking ? would you be doing a review of the creality raptor as well ?

@@danp7979 You are welcome. Yes, there should not be too much light in the environment, including sunlight. Too much light causes glare and reflections. The scanner may not see the object or may lose tracking even if it does. I used Raptor for a short time and I think it is a better scanner, especially for small objects. However, Creality is still not good in terms of software and you need to use a high-performance computer, especially to use the blue laser. It does not have as much freedom as Miraco pro. I can prepare a review video in the coming weeks. I take your requests into consideration.

You're welcome, please feel free to work with me for more :)

You are absolutely right. I don't know how I said this :) I guess I just said cubic centimeter since it was the same in all 3 axes.

I think I'm starting Breaking Bad from scratch today😂

Among the printers I used, the best print quality was with the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. There is a review video on my channel, you can watch it. ua-cam.com/video/NJ7ORhLpJEs/v-deo.html&lc=UgyFTYj8TTtikramRNh4AaABAg.A7J-j6gh4I4A7KFzA4NrdX

Hello, thank you for your comment. Yes, the AMS system wastes a lot of filament. Although the X1C has better material quality, the M5 is a printer that I also like. There is also an M5 review on my channel, if you watch it, I would like to learn your experiences about your printer. ua-cam.com/video/fsOV1u8GhCE/v-deo.html

@@3DPrintLab1 I'm curious what you mean by "better material quality". If you are referring to the housing being aluminum vs plastic guess that's just a matter of opinion. Aluminum is easier to dent and plastic is typically more damage resistant. I think the doors on the X1C are glass where the M5 has plastic doors. Again, plastic is more durable and they work very well. The only 2 features I know of that the X1C has that the M5 doesn't is the sensor at the head, lidar I think it is and the purge tower. The X1C does have a slightly larger bed and that would be nice but I'm just not convinced these things warrant the huge price difference (over double). I could be wrong, I'm no expert.

@@caseypries7559 Yes, as you said, the first thing that naturally catches your eye is that the metal covers of the body are glass. Apart from that, even the plastic parts give a premium feel. You shouldn't think of this only as impact resistance and flexibility. Even the weight of the printer affects the print quality. A solid carrier frame and body helps reduce vibration. I think we shouldn't compare the M5 Pro with the X1C, and this includes the price. The printers that we can evaluate in the same class as the M5 Pro should be printers like the Bambu Lab P1S or Creality K1C. Their prices are also close to each other. Whether it is worth the price difference depends entirely on the user's expectations. For example, I wouldn't recommend the X1C to someone who will use the printer for a hobby, it is unnecessarily expensive. (If have a lot of money, that's different 😄) The M5 Pro will more than meet the expectations.

@@3DPrintLab1 I'm sorry but I still don't get it. To me the x1c is just overpriced. Making something from aluminum just to be aluminum is pointless. The M5 is a metal frame, just plastic covers. Again, I have a lot of trouble understanding the $600 price difference. I could've bought either model. I just didn't see the point in throwing money away. So far the only thing I've heard mentioned is aesthetics.

@@caseypries7559 I hope you don't think I'm defending Bamboo Lab. I'm just speculating why it might be expensive. Of course, it's not just because of an aluminum body or a glass cover. The processor, motherboard, the quality of the materials used in the mechanical parts, the cooling fans, extruder, camera or the lidar, all of these can affect the price. So we can't judge it based on what we see. I don't know how much each of these affects the price or what they will provide us. Maybe the processor used in the X1C is 10 times more expensive than the one used in the M5 Pro, I don't know. Maybe it's unnecessary to use this processor for a printer, I don't know that either :) But I think there's a reason why the X1C is so expensive while the P1S and P1P are more economical printers. Is it worth it? I'm not sure. I don't think the print quality is as much as the price difference. Maybe the quality of the materials used in very long-term use can make a difference.

I think if you want an affordable, entry-level 3D printer, KE will meet your expectations. If you don't print at high speeds all the time, you can use it for a long time. My advice is to buy an extra hotend with KE. Because I have heard complaints about this printer from some users about hotend clogging sometimes.

Love always wins 😂

I think Ender3 V3 is better for a budget. However, if you can adjust your budget, K1C is a better choice than all of them.

Hello friend, I don't speak English either. The video you see is a dub, but it doesn't matter. We can communicate with the translator right now. I've never used Ortur Laser before, but I don't think there will be much difference between them.

@@3DPrintLab1 Thank you. Good luck in your channel.

@@naildonunesoliveira4037 Thank you very much🙏

When ideal conditions are met, it can scan quickly. However, if there is a lot of sunlight and the colors of the object being scanned are not very suitable, it scans slowly. For example, I had difficulty scanning a motorcycle.

A model that I am curious about and would like to prepare a review video for is the Bambu Lab A1. Are you happy with your printer?

@3DPrintLab1 Yes, very much

Hello, thank you for sharing your experience. Yes, I have used baby powder before, it is one of the effective methods. Only the spray is more practical.

@@3DPrintLab1 I've read in the reddits that "goes on dry" Tinactin foot spray is the best. Giving it a shot today :)

Hello, PETG is a thermoplastic that has been strengthened by adding glycol to PET, which is generally used in food packaging. It can be used in every printer, including open cases. ABS and ASA are industrial plastic types with high impact resistance and temperature resistance. Although they are very similar, ASA is much more suitable for outdoor conditions than ABS. Both materials are more suitable for closed-case printers because they are quickly affected by air flow and can lift off the printing surface.