Brilliant! Thank you! I was having one heck of a time getting this thing apart. Watching you, as I followed along, helped so much. I thought I was going to break the stick, trying to unscrew it. My $200 game controller works again!
Thanks glad that it helped, i thought about editing the footage down but I hate videos where the content creator cuts out the one piece that you need to see so I decided to show everything so nothing was missed.
Fixed my controller joystick problem awesome technique all the other videos sucked. My problem was with the joystick and it was grinding on something inside I moved it around a bit and now it works. Thank you.
This was perfect! I was able to successfully fix my stick drift with my controller. Thank you so much! I figured I might have to solder the new joystick on but because of this video, I found out that wasn't needed!
Yea there is always a risk with soldering that you may damage the traces or the PCB so any repairs that can occur without soldering is always best to try first.
I don't know if I should try this to fix my problem. I don't just have normal drift, for me its exponential and increases the longer its been since I last moved the stick, even if I set the deadzone to max the controller slowly increases the input until its off of the deadzone.
11:30 70% isp alcohol or higher or you'll run the risk of frying the motherboards as the alcohol evaporates faster than water.... 70% isp is also 30% water 90% isp is 10% water You are using isp 91% which is 9% water!!!!! NOT ANY ALCOHOL WILL SUFFICE I LOST A CONSOLE ON THE SAME MISTAKE!!!!!!!!!
One thing not mentioned, if you’re replacing right stick potentiometer, I recommend you guys open the whole thing. You won’t have enough room to pull it out otherwise. It’s super easy and the tools to do it are $10 Amazon. Don’t brute force the potentiometer out as there’s a piece of plastic holding the potentiometer in place that can break if you do. Unscrew the back cover off. From there all you have to do is unscrewed two pieces off the green board and lift gently. Unhook the triggers after. That should be enough room to get the potentiometer out you don’t have to completely disassemble the whole thing.
Your right, although I have change a couple of these before recording this video in older controllers with spare parts I wanted to do this in 1 go so people could see exactly how difficult it could be instead of cutting out any details that any individual might find useful. Unfortunately that caused me to try and find the quickest method that could be achieved without someone having taking apart a controller for their first time. If I ever do a similar video in the future i will make sure to show more detail on how to take it part more.
yea it was a stressful and tedious task, sadly it was the only prototype display that we had so it had to be done. every time that i thought i was about done the wires would accidentally solder together and when I try to separate them they would disconnect.
I have a very odd drift, It’s not sticky drift. It drifts after a few seconds of not touching the right stick. It’s a gradual drift perfectly downward (ads to the ground) down to the second ring. It will return to centre if I move the right stick. Please let me know if you know what this is
yes it will mess up again, sadly I seem to have to replace it every 2-4 months but all together it is a cheap alternative instead of replacing with a new controller. Especially when it's an elite or custom type of controller. Hopefully soon we will see XBox and 3rd party companies making it easy to place the whole module like the new PlayStation Edge controller can.
@@spiritualantiseptic yes, it is a good start. Hopefully it will open for Xbox to do something similar along with 3rd parties possibly creating a new standard for controllers and cheaper options that are still reliable.
My problem is the anolage has a bit of wiggle, for example in shooter games if i put my dead zone to .12 it is fine under that and it starts to drift, its like the anolage isnt snaping back to centre, its got a loose circle of of .12 deadzone even on the tighrest setting
this may be a case of the analog itself being damaged, in this case you may have to replace the entire module. if so make sure you purchase the module for the series 2 controller if that is the one that you have.
you literally left out the one part I need help with. how did you get the stick cover off with a needlenose???? I'm trying to turn mine counter clockwise and it just gets tighter and the stick wont move as freely. when i turn it counter clockwise, it just spins and never loosens more. UNBELIEVABLY FRUSTRATING
I just had to grip the part that goes under the magnetic stick with the needle nose, around the outside of it not when you tighten it inside if your using the series 2. I was lucky it didn't scratch it on mine but was difficult to do. that's why I couldn't put it on camera had to get a better grip sorry. Be careful as applying too much force can damage it once you get it loose this one time the next few times you should just be able to put the thumb-stick back on top and turn that to tighten or loosen.
Hi, I have a question. I replaced the sensors and put them in correctly. For the x-axis I have the problem, that if I move the stick a bit down, it directly goes into the down position and for up the same. Does anyone know, how to set the sensitivity, or how to solve the problem?
I'm sorry this isn't a problem that I have come across in my repairs yet. Did you make sure that there isn't anything like hair sticking out of the analog stick itself when you opened the controller? did you clean area around analog carefully with alcohol while it was opened? did you make sure the potentiometer was snapped back in fully when you closed it?
they don't keep the joystick center as much as tell when the joystick moves. The stiffness of the joystick is something that may only be fixable by replacing the whole module. (Soldering involved) its not something I have had to fix myself as of yet.
My thumbsticks are loose. They work with a lil stick drift but the 1st movement on them is loose. Like it has its own dead zone but still counts as movement. Any ideas
So I had to use needle nose pliers to get the left thumb stick off, when I reassembled everything, the left thumb stick catches on the controller if you move it all the way around. Any idea why that is?
Possibly the yellow tape on the bottom of the motherboards that hold the wires in the middle in place after the same repair mine caught too took me an hour to find it
Sadly this is a common thing and even though I originally purchased the original elite controller for the promise that it was built tougher and made to last 2-3 times longer both the elite serries 1 and 2 that I have purchased both experience stick drift at a time i would consider early in their lifespan.
I'm sorry that your controller broke. Sadly repairing always comes at a risk of possibly making things worse. Hopefully there is another fix online for your controller. In what way did it break exactly?
@@КириллИнгерман No. Xbox and PS4 controller use 10K Ohm potentiometer and PS5 use 2.3K ohm potentiometer. You can easily buy both type. So for the PS5 use correct one.
Pretty sure mine is just ruined.. Pulled the front plate off my series 2 to just do some cleaning and dusting. Fixed my RB whilst i was at it, good as new. Popped the sensors off my right stick to see if there was maybe a dog hair or something causing my drift. Gently dusted with a light brush, popped them back on. Now, it's just stuck permanently up, or down. If i pop the sensor and look inward, i can see what looks like copper wire poking out. The controller is probably toast ey?
@@blockchainmusic8697 I ended up actually tearing my ES1 down to the board, removed the sensor from it, and did the same to the ES2. Tore it apart and simply placed the sensor from the series 1 in there. Works good as new. A suggestion if you have an older version controller.
Luckily the sensors are easier to acquire now, a worse case as long as the bored isn't broken you can also acquire the replacement analog joystick replacement but you will have to desolder the old part from the board and solder the new one on. This opens the potential of damaging the PCB(Circuit board of the controller) or even if you are careful can have what is known as a 'Cold Solder Joint" which is when it looks like it is connected properly but under the surface of the solder it may not be making good contact. But cleaning is always step 1 with sensor replacement being step 2.
Or buy a new one with cash and when you get in your car in the parking lot carefully open the box and swap the new one with the old and return it saying you bought the wrong one. I’ve never done this just heard about it…
I did something when I was young with a game that messed up minutes after purchasing and trying it out. I wouldn't condone it and i felt bad afterwards but I was broke and tried to be honest on how the game was damaged and no one wanted to help me out.
Brilliant! Thank you! I was having one heck of a time getting this thing apart. Watching you, as I followed along, helped so much. I thought I was going to break the stick, trying to unscrew it. My $200 game controller works again!
Thanks glad that it helped, i thought about editing the footage down but I hate videos where the content creator cuts out the one piece that you need to see so I decided to show everything so nothing was missed.
Bro this works for any one wondering the side where the spring is raised goes facing up (towards you) the flat side goes down (facing away from you)
Fixed my controller joystick problem awesome technique all the other videos sucked. My problem was with the joystick and it was grinding on something inside I moved it around a bit and now it works. Thank you.
My right stick is sticking and grinding on the inside, I’ll be opening it tonight sadly, was anything bent you could see?
The edges of the metal cage on the joystick are rubbing against the metal on the bottom of the anolage and the shavings are going into the joystick
Very helpful video, fixed my drift with no problems, many thanks from the uk
Awesome, glad it was able to help you. I hope to be able to do more repairs in the future.
Thanks for the video. Replaced the controller piece causing the problem and works perfectly now!
Happy this fixed your issue
This was perfect! I was able to successfully fix my stick drift with my controller. Thank you so much! I figured I might have to solder the new joystick on but because of this video, I found out that wasn't needed!
Yea there is always a risk with soldering that you may damage the traces or the PCB so any repairs that can occur without soldering is always best to try first.
thats my problem rn and im waiting for my new potentiometer to be delivered now i know how to place it thank you so much this is very helpful
no problem, hope that it works for you
Thank you this fixed it for me was driving me crazy
I don't know if I should try this to fix my problem. I don't just have normal drift, for me its exponential and increases the longer its been since I last moved the stick, even if I set the deadzone to max the controller slowly increases the input until its off of the deadzone.
11:30 70% isp alcohol or higher or you'll run the risk of frying the motherboards as the alcohol evaporates faster than water....
70% isp is also 30% water
90% isp is 10% water
You are using isp 91% which is 9% water!!!!!
NOT ANY ALCOHOL WILL SUFFICE I LOST A CONSOLE ON THE SAME MISTAKE!!!!!!!!!
thanks for the tip if I do another video about this in the future I will be sure to include this information.
One thing not mentioned, if you’re replacing right stick potentiometer, I recommend you guys open the whole thing. You won’t have enough room to pull it out otherwise. It’s super easy and the tools to do it are $10 Amazon. Don’t brute force the potentiometer out as there’s a piece of plastic holding the potentiometer in place that can break if you do. Unscrew the back cover off. From there all you have to do is unscrewed two pieces off the green board and lift gently. Unhook the triggers after. That should be enough room to get the potentiometer out you don’t have to completely disassemble the whole thing.
Your right, although I have change a couple of these before recording this video in older controllers with spare parts I wanted to do this in 1 go so people could see exactly how difficult it could be instead of cutting out any details that any individual might find useful. Unfortunately that caused me to try and find the quickest method that could be achieved without someone having taking apart a controller for their first time. If I ever do a similar video in the future i will make sure to show more detail on how to take it part more.
“I have done a ribbons cable before” when I tell you how hard my eye twitched when you said that….
yea it was a stressful and tedious task, sadly it was the only prototype display that we had so it had to be done. every time that i thought i was about done the wires would accidentally solder together and when I try to separate them they would disconnect.
Wish there's a magnetic joystick for Xbox elite. It just so wrong that you spend more than $200, but the joystick is still not last too long.
yea all controllers seem to use the same cheap parts which is sad when they also increase the value.
I have a very odd drift, It’s not sticky drift. It drifts after a few seconds of not touching the right stick. It’s a gradual drift perfectly downward (ads to the ground) down to the second ring. It will return to centre if I move the right stick. Please let me know if you know what this is
It's just stick drift. Nothing fancy about it. This was the same issue I had and the above tutorial was able to resolve it for me.
Thank you 🙏🏻
happy the video helped
Did this ever go bad again? I just bought a custom one for $230 and I would love to be able to fix it in the future after its warrenty
yes it will mess up again, sadly I seem to have to replace it every 2-4 months but all together it is a cheap alternative instead of replacing with a new controller. Especially when it's an elite or custom type of controller. Hopefully soon we will see XBox and 3rd party companies making it easy to place the whole module like the new PlayStation Edge controller can.
The replacement for the Sony controller are quite expensive.
@@spiritualantiseptic yes, it is a good start. Hopefully it will open for Xbox to do something similar along with 3rd parties possibly creating a new standard for controllers and cheaper options that are still reliable.
It worked for me ! thanks a lot !
I bought the little thing on XQ gaming ua-cam.com/video/MoqW3PukDK0/v-deo.html
Awesome, glad that it has helped.
My controller won’t even turn on now after taking off cover to clean bumpers. Anyone have this issue what should I do?
My problem is the anolage has a bit of wiggle, for example in shooter games if i put my dead zone to .12 it is fine under that and it starts to drift, its like the anolage isnt snaping back to centre, its got a loose circle of of .12 deadzone even on the tighrest setting
this may be a case of the analog itself being damaged, in this case you may have to replace the entire module. if so make sure you purchase the module for the series 2 controller if that is the one that you have.
I currently have this same issue in both joysticks. Did you end up finding a fix for it?
you literally left out the one part I need help with. how did you get the stick cover off with a needlenose????
I'm trying to turn mine counter clockwise and it just gets tighter and the stick wont move as freely. when i turn it counter clockwise, it just spins and never loosens more. UNBELIEVABLY FRUSTRATING
I just had to grip the part that goes under the magnetic stick with the needle nose, around the outside of it not when you tighten it inside if your using the series 2. I was lucky it didn't scratch it on mine but was difficult to do. that's why I couldn't put it on camera had to get a better grip sorry. Be careful as applying too much force can damage it once you get it loose this one time the next few times you should just be able to put the thumb-stick back on top and turn that to tighten or loosen.
Look close. Screwdriver they came with to adjust the joysticks.
Hi, I have a question. I replaced the sensors and put them in correctly. For the x-axis I have the problem, that if I move the stick a bit down, it directly goes into the down position and for up the same. Does anyone know, how to set the sensitivity, or how to solve the problem?
I'm sorry this isn't a problem that I have come across in my repairs yet. Did you make sure that there isn't anything like hair sticking out of the analog stick itself when you opened the controller? did you clean area around analog carefully with alcohol while it was opened? did you make sure the potentiometer was snapped back in fully when you closed it?
So these little sensors with springs on it is what keeps the thumbsticks centre?
they don't keep the joystick center as much as tell when the joystick moves. The stiffness of the joystick is something that may only be fixable by replacing the whole module. (Soldering involved) its not something I have had to fix myself as of yet.
My thumbsticks are loose. They work with a lil stick drift but the 1st movement on them is loose. Like it has its own dead zone but still counts as movement. Any ideas
Not going to open it as still in warranty. Hopefully will just get a new one
They all have these. Getting a new one doesnt work
That’s just how the controller is and is the only thing is hate about it. Well other than the notorious right thumb stick drift.
Try adjusting with the little screwdriver they came with. For this reason exactly.
So I had to use needle nose pliers to get the left thumb stick off, when I reassembled everything, the left thumb stick catches on the controller if you move it all the way around. Any idea why that is?
You didn’t tighten it down enough or tighten it too much
Possibly the yellow tape on the bottom of the motherboards that hold the wires in the middle in place after the same repair mine caught too took me an hour to find it
the problem is i got to do this on a $200 controller...
deadass smh
350 in Canada
Sadly this is a common thing and even though I originally purchased the original elite controller for the promise that it was built tougher and made to last 2-3 times longer both the elite serries 1 and 2 that I have purchased both experience stick drift at a time i would consider early in their lifespan.
I broke my controller trying this and it was a gift☹️
I'm sorry that your controller broke. Sadly repairing always comes at a risk of possibly making things worse. Hopefully there is another fix online for your controller. In what way did it break exactly?
Hello, friend tell me potentiometer what is listed in the description is also suitable for xbox series and xbox one?
yes, it can be used for either.
@@eztek1023 and on ps5?
@@КириллИнгерман I am not sure if it will work with the PS5, I do not have one to test I am sorry. But it will work with the PS4.
@@КириллИнгерман No. Xbox and PS4 controller use 10K Ohm potentiometer and PS5 use 2.3K ohm potentiometer. You can easily buy both type. So for the PS5 use correct one.
Pretty sure mine is just ruined.. Pulled the front plate off my series 2 to just do some cleaning and dusting. Fixed my RB whilst i was at it, good as new. Popped the sensors off my right stick to see if there was maybe a dog hair or something causing my drift. Gently dusted with a light brush, popped them back on. Now, it's just stuck permanently up, or down. If i pop the sensor and look inward, i can see what looks like copper wire poking out. The controller is probably toast ey?
hahahaha same happend with me now LOL, and constantly just up now
@@blockchainmusic8697 I ended up actually tearing my ES1 down to the board, removed the sensor from it, and did the same to the ES2. Tore it apart and simply placed the sensor from the series 1 in there. Works good as new. A suggestion if you have an older version controller.
Luckily the sensors are easier to acquire now, a worse case as long as the bored isn't broken you can also acquire the replacement analog joystick replacement but you will have to desolder the old part from the board and solder the new one on. This opens the potential of damaging the PCB(Circuit board of the controller) or even if you are careful can have what is known as a 'Cold Solder Joint" which is when it looks like it is connected properly but under the surface of the solder it may not be making good contact. But cleaning is always step 1 with sensor replacement being step 2.
It came with a screwdriver specifically for the joysticks.
one of the 2 kits that I bought did yes
Or buy a new one with cash and when you get in your car in the parking lot carefully open the box and swap the new one with the old and return it saying you bought the wrong one. I’ve never done this just heard about it…
I did something when I was young with a game that messed up minutes after purchasing and trying it out. I wouldn't condone it and i felt bad afterwards but I was broke and tried to be honest on how the game was damaged and no one wanted to help me out.
Jarive pas regardé avec l'écrit jai pas aimé