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German Short Row Sock Heels Three Ways
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
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Three variations on the classic "hourglass" short row sock heel that allow you to use German Short Rows to knit them.
Jump directly to a specific part of the video by clicking on the corresponding link below:
Introduction: 0:00
Sock heel set up: 0:31
W&T short row "hourglass" heel: 1:18
2nd half of hourglass heel: 2:34
GSR heel version 1: 3:54
midpoint of version 1 heel: 7:21
2nd half of version 1 heel: 9:35
Final result of version 1: 11:36
GSR heel version 2: 13:26
midpoint version 2: 14:43
2nd half of version 2 heel: 15:38
Final result version 2: 17:56
GSR heel version 3: 18:42
2nd half of version 3: 19:11
Final Result version 3: 23:00
This month's video theme is Short Rows! Check out the other videos in this series in the Short Rows Playlist, or click on a link below:
Short Row Comparisons (7 different short row techniques) • Short Rows: Techniques...
Substituting Short Rows (subbing in a different technique than the one called for in your pattern) • Short Row Substitutions
Adding Short Rows (to a pattern that doesn't call for them) • Adding Short Rows to a...
If you have follow up questions, you can ask them here, or in my Ravelry Group, Rox Rocks: www.ravelry.com/groups/rox-rocks
![A better way to knit German short rows [and why yours may look all wrong]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i_F8A5Lyz88/mqdefault.jpg)
My biggest pet peeve is most tutorials are from those who are English knitters only. Bless you for being a Continental knitter!! Also thank you for having the most concise explanation of how to do the GSR.
That was a very clear description of GSR and how to use it in sock heels. I have not seen it graphed out before. That was very helpful. Thank you.
When you said that German short row stitches can't be stacked I disagreed, because that's how I learned GSRs, I've always stacked them and it turns out fine, or so I thought. Then I used the second technique in this video, and it's a HUGE improvement. It'll be my go-to method from now on. I love your videos and have learned so much from you!
Yeah, I think a number of people have disagreed with my take on stacking GSR turns. I should have said that it's possible to do, but when compared to other ways of working the heel, it gives (in my opinion) the least attractive result. I I'm glad you found one of the methods I demonstrated to work well for you. :-)
I really liked the way you went from the knitting example back & forth with your chart. Very helpful.
This is a great resource, I use it constantly. Thank you! The chart to knitting and explanations are just right for my brain.
Thank you so much! This was the best way to knit a heel I've found until now. The result is very pretty and you demonstrated perfectly as usual. ❤🌷
Very nice video, Roxanne. Very clear explanations. Loved the comparisons of each method with charts and then demonstrations. Thank you!
Best explanation and visual on this subject I have seen.
Thank you!!
Your chart, & your explanation, together, were helpful. Thank you for your extra effort.
Thank you, Roxanne. This is a comprehensive and helpful tutorial. Very well filmed and clearly presented. I successfully completed socks with GSR heels and they fit. I also added a mini gusset per directions from a pattern. Having a good alternative heel is great. So far Heel-flap and gusset is the only one that has been reliable for me.
I'm in the same boat as you. Heel flaps and gussets every time, because the SR heel didn't fit. I understood it was *possible* to do a gusset, but I couldn't find good information on calculating how many sts to add for the gusset. I had to figure it out as a geometry problem! :-)
Thanks for a clear explanation! Looking forwards to seeing your "short row charts", it will be sooo helpful!!
Such a helpful and thorough explanation! Thank you!
Such an improvement on “wrap and turn”! This is extremely clear, and I find GSR’s so superior!
I like the third method best. I tried all of them the slip st. Method looks the nicest. Thank you for teaching us these, you are a great teacher. Thank you.
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Excellent explanation! Thank you so much and greetings from Germany! ❤️🙋♀️
Roxanne, I just love it when things just click. I'm a beginning Knitter attempting my first sock I watched your video before starting and was Sooooo confused. But watching it now after completely my first sock, it's so clear! Thank you! I consider you and Suzanne Bryan my "knitty god mothers" in my journey to learn. I love that you both focus on the theory\analysis aspect of knitting which I find so fun. These socks are my 4th project and I have yet to follow a pattern, I've been learning techniques separately and piecing then together on my own!
I'm glad that on second viewing, the video was more clear. It really does require some context in order to understand! I think most of us piece together techniques in order to find the combination of sock elements and good results that work best for each of us.
Thank you so much for this. What a wonderful explanation.
Very clear instructions! Just what I needed! Thank you Roxanne.
You are so welcome!
Thank you for this excellent tutorial. I look forward to trying all the versions you described. Your tutorials succinct, with clear and easy to follow instructions. The video taping and close ups are of a high quality and offer added value. As a learner I decided to watch all the content once without stopping, and found that the pace of the instruction and video were just right for me. Having watched all the content I was able to choose which version i want to try first and i will go back and watch the section again as i knit. The graphics and the charts enhanced the videos as visual aids and laid out in on paper the schematics and helped me understand what was happening. Thanks again.
I really enjoy listening to your explanations and overviews of concepts and math in knitting and have recently drawn my foot on paper!!! (Oh, by the way the ball of my foot is 9") lol Barb/Sacramento
I always knew there had to be another way to make a heel that didn’t involve what my kids called a weird puffy heel (flap) thank you so much for this video. Would it be possible to do a slow motion video where you explain stitch-by-stitch how exactly to do the double stitch heel, the nicest looking one you did last? I just KNEW I would be able to find help on UA-cam. All the knitting/yarn stores in town have closed except Michael’s and Walmart. So, obviously, the staff knows NOTHING! It’s nice to know there are still knitters out there keeping the craft alive! God Bless!
I’m thinking about sending this link out to all my IT buddies .. just to make the point that “maybe your grandmother’s knitting was more technical than you think”. Thank you for using the chart and actually explaining the rationale for each method. This is the depth of understanding that I needed before I dive into the world of socks. And it makes it clear to me why you either love or hate making socks.
Thank you so much for this video.
I stack my double stitches every time. Never end up with holes. I prefer this way because I use self striping yarn and I don’t end up with two random stripes across the instep. As with any heel, there might be slight holes when the heel is finished, but I just wrap and turn the first and last instep stitches when finishing up the heel.
Thanks for the video. I'm German and have made lots of Socks with "German Short Rows" (we don't call them that, obviously). I really like your 2nd version, but I have to insist that double stitches can be stacked. It's done all the time, some people call them "double double stitches". You do get a different look, because the "quadruple stitch" you're knitting in the end produces a bigger stitch that looks a bit like a seam or an eylet - I like the look better than with 2 rows of stocking stitch in between. And the heels are very durable.
Thank you for your comment. I agree that you *can* double stack the double sts. It's physically possible, and perhaps I should have said that, rather than saying it can't be done. Whether you slip the stitch, as I do in the 3rd method, or slip and pull over, you're still slipping the stitch, so in that way, they are structurally the same, and if you can do one, you can do the other. When a double st is worked, you knit the original st together with the running thread connecting it to its neighbor. For a double double stitch, that amplifies the gap between the two columns of sts that are different in height, rather than leaving that running thread to help fill in that gap (as with just slipping the st). I find the resulting large gap created by the stacked double sts aesthetically unappealing, which is what led me to say it can't be done. Again, I could have mentioned it, but it would have made an already long video even longer. Perhaps I will post a follow-up video at a later date. :-)
As for the term "German Short Rows," I am afraid that is my fault. When I first came across this method 6 years ago, it was in a book translated from German, and the name of the method was quite long: "shortened rows with stitches passed over." I couldn't find any other source for this type of short row, and because the result was the same as the popular Japanese Short Rows, I named them German Short Rows. Several German knitters have told me, "We just call them short rows!" :-)
yep - I have stacked them for a reasonable looking result as well
I have a question, if that's alright ?? Are these what you call in Germany "Boomerang Heel" or "Bumerangferse" ?? Does the second version have a different name ?? Vielen Dank...
I just learned how to do these “German short rows” from another UA-camr but it wasn’t for sock heels. No one told me the double stitches couldn’t be stacked. Soooo, I knitted a pattern i had created and double stacked the short row stitches. It looked great to me and no holes. I am not sure why this video says they can’t be double stacked but it worked for me, and I just didn’t know any better. But, thanks for the video... I am interested in the variations you present here so I might give them a try on my next pair of socks. 😊
@@Chickasawndngirl agreed, no holes here!
Thank you for this as I wanted to refresh heel turning as I did 30 years ago. It is your 3rd method. Restarting sock knitting!
This is so informative! I really wish you had a video for a GSR toe-up sock because the one I've been using stacks the GSRs and I'm sure you have a better way.
Short row heels are worked identically, regardless of whether you are knitting cuff down or toe up. Use one of the methods described in this video, rather than the method you are currently using.
Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
You're welcome You're welcome You're welcome!!! :-)
Question: when doing technique #2 using contrast yarn for the heel how do you keep the last double stitch in place without knitting the next stitch? When do you begin using the regular yarn again? Would you knit all the way back, knit across the two double stitches on the left side then drop the contrast yarn and continue in the round from the right by knitting the two beginning double stitches with the regular sock yarn?
Do you have a patt for toe up socks with magic cast on german short rows for heel and fingering weight yarn?
you are great
Thats what we call Bumerangferse (boomerang heel) here in Germany. One of my favorite heels to knit.
Pupusvhen stricken
I really appreciate your video- do you have a pattern that would be a good for a beginner?
Is there a way to get those GSR charts you are using? Very handy! That way I can carry it around with my pattern.
dear roxane,having both sides not the same is because making the double stitch on the knit side and placing the yarn forward and picking the stitch end to end from the needle, makes the stitch twisted.If you leave the yarn back and pick the stitch as you would to knit and pull, places the little "knot of the double stitch toward the back of the needle.After making the double stitches into one stitch on the left side, you knit the stitches from front of the two stitches, but coming around to the right side you must knit the two stitches from the back of the needle. again making the rows longer, the purled double stitches must be purled from the back of the needle catching both legs of the stitch to purl.That way both sides will be same.
Amei! 😍👏👏🇧🇷
How do close holes on WT heels?
Thx.
Thanks Roxanne, that is one of the best done and most comprehensive explanation of GSRs I have found! So I have a question. I decided to use this technique (3rd version) to make a toe for a toe up sock. It worked pretty well actually except my first stitch in the provisional cast on is "weak" since I started it just by laying the yarn over the needle and knitting it through. The result was I don't think it supported the "double stitch" well and I have a hole on one side of my sock. Do you have any suggestions? I thought about for the second sock to make a slip knot first passing the yarn through the provisional cast on loop and then inserting my needle into this as my first stitch. What do you think?
So is that the location of the yarn tail? If so, use that yarn tail to close the hole! If not, then could you explain more fully what PCO you used?
The crocheted PCO and yes, that is where my yarn tail is. I do intend to use it to fix my hole, but was just trying to think of a way to avoid it. Thanks for responding!
There might be a way that could make it better, as there are alternatives for how the crocheted PCO is set up, but there are also other PCOs that might work well, in this situation. I have plans in June for a video that demonstrates an alternate method of the crocheted PCO that might work for you, but until I play around with it in the situation you are in, I can't be sure it will be better. Have you tried JMCO, to see if that might work better?
Yes, with some practice I have come to really like that cast on. I guess I was just trying something different, and as these socks were for my wife, to try to eliminate as much as possible that "seam" I get with the increases on the toe. I think this has been the most seamless toe I have done, and closing the hole with the tail I think will work perfectly fine. I am relatively new though, knitting less than a year, so always looking for techniques and ideas I just don't know about yet. I look forward to your alternate PCO video too; it seems for fingering weight yarn I always struggle with these. It could just be my own eyesight and experience though.
Derek, I hope you are not very advanced in age, because you have many years of techniques and never-before-seen ideas in front of you. I've been knitting more than 30 years, and I'm still learning every day. That's part of what makes knitting such an enjoyable and rewarding activity! :-)
if you are doing a toe up, and you want a longer heel to accomodate a high arch, do you start the heel construction a few centimeters ahead of where the heel is to commence?
You'll need to start the heel based on the total number of rows/rounds you need to work for your specific heel. If you're adding a gusset in order to increase the number of heel stitches you'll have, you need to figure out how many rounds you're adding for the gusset and also how many rows that will add to the first half of your heel, and then start accordingly. I have a video on doing this sort of calculation here: ua-cam.com/video/oeJ1VxrbKdU/v-deo.html
Hi! I have watched ur 3 vers of german short rows. None of them are what i have been doing. I watched staci knit pink version of toe up sks with gsrows. She doesnt use any markers i just turn when i get to the gsr from last round. My heels turn out great with her method and pattern but I do get holes. In the cornersI try to hide with weaving but dont like the way it looks. You suggest being sure the gsr at the beg of a round is snug. I will have to pay attention to this. Her pattern is excellent as she gives you row by row. No guessing. Love your videos
The markers are simply to remind you where the middle third of the sts are. If you have row by row instructions, then the pattern is doing that job for you by telling you when to stop short rowing, but that only works if you have the same stitch count as the pattern, and not everyone will have that stitch count, particularly if they need to make modifications to the heel in order for it to fit (as I would). The method you are likely using for short rowing is to work the double stitch, turn, and create another double stitch. Some people do this, but I don't like that method (and, therefore, didn't demonstrate it), because the turns do end up gappy. It's an aesthetic choice.
I'm curious about the same technique Sandra is referring to. Staci (Very Pink) has a GSR video out where she stacks them, so basically the first half is worked same as you do, but on the second half, you don't knit any rows in between the 'hourglass'. You knit until the GSR, knit the GSR, knit a second, then turn. You proceed in this way, do a GSR, knit until the GSR, knit the GSR, knit a second, turn. It does come out gappy, I agree, but it does produce a short row heel.
Now my question. In your video, you say 'you can't stack German Short Rows' and I'm wondering why? You can but the result isn't great? Next pair of socks I am trying your technique with the knit rows in between the half to see if I like it. I actually use this same technique for my sock toes (not the heel). I originally saw Staci's video and never questioned the technique since it did work. It never occurred to me to knit a row in between the hourglass.
I'd love to see a printed chart as well, or at least as a 'pattern' on Ravelry.
You can, physically, do a double double stitch, which you have seen, but I find that it's aesthetically displeasing, and consider it to be less desirable. Others will disagree. The two-rounds-between-each-half of the short row method is perhaps the most common way of producing a short row heel with this type of short row (you'll see it described on the inside of some German sock yarns). It's called the Jo-Jo (i.e. "yo-yo") heel or boomerang heel. It often isn't practical, for reasons described in this video, when using a contrast heel, or self-striping yarn. I think it's worth trying all three (or four, including the double double stitch method) to see which method you prefer, as each has its uses in specific situations. There is always more than one way to get to the same end point.
Aha, gotcha, I have heard the Jo-Jo heel term before and hadn't realized what it meant. I will try this next time. Thanks for your response.
1 second ago
Hi Roxanne, thanks for the great video. It looks good, although I have a question; can I use this technique knitting socks two up on a magic loop? I don't think I can can knit the whole rounds halfway the heel?
Well, how do you usually work SR heels TAAT? Do you do one heel, then the other? If so, then work the first half of one heel, then the first half of the other, then work one complete round for both, and start the second round, ending with the first heel. Complete that heel, then when you work to the end of the row for that heel, finish the second round of the second heel, and work the second half of that heel.
Thank you for your response. Do you have any patts on ravelry for toe ups using gsrs for heel?
I do not. With socks, you can typically swap out your preferred heel for whatever is called for in the pattern, and/or make modifications for a better fit, depending on your particular situation. I have lots of videos on techniques for better fitting socks.
Hi. I'm wanting to knit my first pair of sock so am learning as much as l can before l decide which method to use. Can you please explain the reason for the double stitches? Are they there to strengthen the heel in some way? Thanks.
You might want to watch the first video in this series, which explains the purpose of short rows, and compares various methods. There are many ways to knit socks, and lots of choices for heels and toes, not to mention the direction in which you knit socks (cuff down or toe up). I would recommend starting with a cuff down, heel flap and gusset construction, as it is very traditional, and pretty straightforward to modify for a good fit. I would even recommend knitting a small sock in worsted weight yarn as a tutorial, first, so that you can understand how each part works. I used a tutorial from Knitty years ago, called something like Socks 101. I've knit hundreds of socks for dozens of different people, and I'm still learning new things. I recommend jumping in, seeing what you like or don't like, then trying something different for the next pair. There is no one "best" way to knit socks.
Thank you for this great tutorial. I'm using Version 2 on a sock toe and I want to use the Finchley Graft to bind off the toe. When I finish the last purl row, turn and create the final double stitch, do I stop there and do the Finchley Graft, or do I first knit across, knitting the two double stitches together, then do the Finchley Graft? If I do the Finchley Graft without knitting across first my working yarn is coming off the second double stitch so I'm not sure how to work the first Finchley Graft stitches from there. I hope this question makes sense.
I've never used it for SR toes, but I would knit across after that last SR turn, and then graft, treating that remaining double stitch as a single stitch when I grafted the final sts. You could experiment on a swatch with a smaller number of sts to see what approach works best.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you!
Thank you for such clear instructions, I learnt magic loop from another of your videos too. I have a Regia (German) pattern because that's what I started knitting my (first) pair of socks with. It uses wrap stitches, which I followed, then two rows of stockinette, which I did, then starts wrapping again and I can't make sense of it. I can understand how you do your short rows with wrap stitches, but am lost with this pattern that has the two stockinette rows in between. Is this a technique you know? Do you have a tutorial for it? I realise that I can just ignore the pattern and do one of your techniques, but it frustrates me that this is a pattern from the yarn brand and I just don't "get it"! I also don't understand their toe decreasing instruction charts either - I watched your tutorial about working out toe decreases for friends' feet, which was sort of what we'd done but we still couldn't make sense of their maths. Coffee coming your way!
If you post your question in my Ravelry group (start a new discussion thread), and provide a link to the pattern you're trying to decipher, I will most likely be able to help. :-)
Thks so much 4 this informative video
Would u do the Fish lips kiss
🐟 👄😘 sock heel????
I'm new to gsr, I really love it. I've been trying it on a couple if socks, and I am starting to get a hang of it. The way you do it looks amazing!! However, do we have to use a circular needle? Can I do it with dp needles? You said something about us having to "knit in the round". I don't understand what that refers to?
Knitting in the round means you are knitting a tube, which is what you do when you are knitting socks, although the heel itself is knit flat. You can knit in the round using dpns, a 9'' circular needle, or a much longer circular needle (say, 32''), using Magic Loop, or using two circular needles and the two circs technique.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you!! I've knitted dozens of socks, but never in the round. I can't wait to do it this new way. I love how one is never finished learning about knitting,there are always new things to learn. Have a great day!
Hi. Thanks for the clear instructions. I was wondering, do you make increases on the sock prior to starting the german short rows? It looks like there are increases on either side or your sock heel.
I have a long heel, but relatively slender ankle, so a short row heel using the stitch count I have for the leg is impossibly short (and too small in circumference--I can't get it on my foot!). In order for a short row heel to fit me, I knit a small gusset to increase the number of sts. All the new sts are assigned to the heel, which means I end up working more short rows. Between the gusset itself, and the additional short rows, I have a heel that fits me. After I finish the heel, I reduce the stitch count back down to the number I need to accommodate my foot circumference.
Brilliant. Thanks for the response.
Hello would you tell me the size of the needles you using in this video thank you.
I was using worsted weight yarn and US 6/4.0mm needles. I used that yarn/needle combination for demonstration purposes. Normally, I knit socks with fingering weight yarn, and a US 0/2.0mm needle at a gauge of 9 sts/in, but that gets to be a bit too teensy to see well on video without zooming way in.
Thank you for the video. This is my favorite heel. I do not understand why you do 2 row stockinette rows in the round. I do not do this. Just find it interesting how people do things differently.
You videos are always so helpful. The chart was great. But I have a question. The pattern I am using doesn't work the short rows on the inside of the markers. Your directions do. May I ask what is the purpose of doing this? Thanks.
Someone asked a similar question in my Ravelry group recently. I answered it with some further charts to explain it, which you might find helpful www.ravelry.com/discuss/rox-rocks/3995796/1-25#6
LOVE your videos. Thank you. QUESTION on reinforcing heels & toes: Instead of buying many colors of special sock darning thread, which could be a little expensive, I bought a spool of colorless, nylon thread. It's like fishing line, but thinner. I could hold the colorless, nylon thread along with the yarn, just like you say. QUESTION: Do you have any tips on how to make that nylon thread stay put? It isn't elastic; it wouldn't give & take with the knitted fabric. I don't know about making a knot with it? I'd really appreciate your thoughts on this. Thank you. :)))
The problem with this sort of nylon thread is that it's more likely to cut through your sock yarn than to be helpful in reinforcing it. You might want to try a spool of wooly nylon, in a neutral color. It's meant to sew together knit fabric (using a serger), and is very stretchy. In most cases, I don't use any reinforcing thread. If you're working at a sufficiently firm gauge (1-2 sts more per inch than the ball band states), and the yarn contains nylon already, you probably don't need to reinforce the heels and toes. I only reinforce when I'm using 100% wool, which limits how often I have to buy reinforcing thread.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you, Roxanne, for taking time to respond to this nagging question. Yes, I considered (after the purchase) that the nylon might cut, but my knitting experience is lacking to make that judgment. So, I turned to you. :) Regarding, the knitting a firmer gauge (1-2 sts/inch more than ball band) vs. the pattern gauge is an interesting thought. Right now, I'm knitting the original "Winter Socks" by Bev Galeskas' (RIP) "The Magic Loop" booklet, p. 11, which calls for worsted weight at 6 spi; I'm using US 3 to get that gauge. That would be an example of your idea, I guess. Using 100% wool I'll probably use that fingering wool/nylon afterwards to reinforce. Couldn't think of any way to "anchor" that nylon in place. Much appreciate your kindness. :))
Roxanne I have recently learned how to knit socks and love learning new techniques. Question: why is the stitch inside the markers worked into a double stitch on demo 2? Thanks! bboice/Sacramento
Because that stitch inside the marker is worked prior to turning, regardless of the short row technique used at the turn. So you'd work that stitch whether you wrapped the stitch outside the marker, or turned and created a double stitch. You don't *have* to do it that way, but the point was to always make the turning stitch the same, and then apply the short row technique at that point. You might find my other short row videos useful. I have a playlist of short row videos (click on Playlists on my channel, then look for the one called Short Rows). There's a video that compares the various techniques, as well as one on short row substitutions that you might find helpful.
Hi was learning the short rows thanks for the video. I was wondering what brand are your needles they seem very sharp at the tips? i'm currently looking for a beginner set but i like when the tips are sharp.
I used a couple of different brands of needles in the video. The nickel-coated needles with the purple cables are KnitPicks interchangeables. The purple needles with the silver tips and black cables are Signature Needle Arts fixed-length circs. KnitPicks are economical and were fine (and actually quite good) at the time I bought them, 14 years ago, but since then, many other needles have come on the market that I like more (e.g. Chiaogoo Red Lace needles in the fixed lengths or interchangeable tips).The Signatures are my favorite needles, but they are quite expensive. Chiaogoo has a nice flexible cable, and nice points, and I have just recently switched to using those when my Signatures are being used for another project. Otherwise, I would suggest you look at the many, many threads in the Tools & Equipment forum on Ravelry. Which needles to buy is a nearly-daily discussion on that forum.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks so much for your advise. I will definitely check on ravelry in the forum discussio n.😊
Thanks so much for the great tutorial. Version 2 is almost exactly like the FLK heel except for the way the double stitches are formed. Have you ever tried the FLK and do you think the results are comparable with the results of Version 2?
The short row method FLK uses is called shadow wrap short rows, with the SR technique worked at the turn producing "twin stitches" instead of "double stitches." Shadow wrap short rows are kind of a hybrid of the two general families of short rows. I have a video on "comparing short row techniques "that compares a variety of short row methods, and explains how methods are similar and different from each other. Any short row technique could be applied to the Version 2 method of short row heels.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks so much. I love to learn. Could you tell me what you mean by "the two general families of short rows"?
@@abgates56 IT's explained in the video on comparing short row techniques. :-)
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you. I'll watch it again to see that part.
Different size or weight yarns yield different gauges and when using different size needles, etc. Overall are there some general sock numbers one should adhere to when using certain weights of yarn to achieve wearable socks? I like to knit my socks without a pattern (just learning). Can my toes stitch count be larger or smaller than my heel count? Thanks, Barb/Sacramento
The general rules are to work to a gauge 1-2 sts/inch firmer than the ball band suggests, as the ball band is recommending a gauge meant for a stockinette sweater, not for a sock, even if the yarn is marketed as sock yarn. So if the ball band says 7 sts/in, then knit at 8-9 sts/in. Use your gauge and ankle/ball of foot circumference to determine the stitch count, and CO 90% of that amount. e.g. 9'' ankle at 8 sts/in, is 9*8=72, but multiply that by .9 (for 10% negative ease), and you will get ~63 sts. So CO 64. The stitch count you need for your leg may not be what you need for your foot, if your ankle is significantly larger or smaller than your ball of foot.
when I multiply 72x.9 I get 64.8? I am just wondering how you got and/or get 63 and the rationale. thanks!! (Did I miss something with the negative ease?) bboice.@@RoxanneRichardson
@@bboice08 No, I probably just calculated wrong in my head. (70 *.9 instead of 72*.9) Doesn't really matter, you'd still round to the nearest multiple of 4, which is 64 sts, regardless.
Would you tell me for a size 8.5 foot, if I use sport weight yarn how many sts. I need to CO thank you for reply.
Shoe size has to do with length, not circumference. The number of sts you need to CO depends on how big around the ankle/ball of foot is, combined with your gauge (sts/in). You might find this playlist of sock-related videos helpful. There is a list of 15 of my videos to choose from. ua-cam.com/play/PL1AZxTfSCe2cq3ZnnnCTGmbaqmGicKFQP.html
I measure a foot from the big toe to the heel and around the widest part of the foot. With those measurements you cast on about 30 stitches and work stockingnette for a few inches and then measure how many stitches you are getting to the inch. use that number to multiply by your measurements. reduce about 5% of your stitches for a snug fit. you may need to make adjustments if yoy have large calves if you are knitting long socks. i knit toe up socks. they are easier to fit. they can be tried on as you go. i hope this helps.
Also stop about 2.5 inches from your heel to start turning the heel as she has shown.
I love your needles, where did you get them?
+Pamela Smith those are 32” fixed length circs from KnitPicks.
Thanks for your great video. At the end of the video where you mentioned that you used a "hole closing" technique, I'm not sure what the technique is to close the holes??
I use the same technique I would use for heel flap and gusset socks. ua-cam.com/video/rUxh_weue0w/v-deo.html
🤔Can I do this with straight needles ??
Why oh why does knitting socks need to be so utterly complicated! 😂 I far prefer knitting seemingly labourious projects like cardigans etc. to socks, in fact I've never completed a pair of socks, as it *is* so utterly complicated, requiring all these complicated techniques... There must be a better, easier way! ;D
Great explantion really cleat Did you drow that chart. Where can we find it?
I did make the charts. I included them in my August Sock KAL documentation for knitting custom-fit socks. www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/august-sock-kal
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks. I just bought it I'll have a look carefully
Are these charts available for download? Thanks
They are available in the documentation for my August Sock KAL, a five-part, in-depth tutorial on knitting custom fit socks: www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/august-sock-kal
@@RoxanneRichardson
I have no doubt this is very comprehensive if you know what 'wrapped' and 'stacked' means 😭😭
Totally agree... I didn't understand a word....too fast, too technical...and I'm a knitter!!.
She's good though!
What is the purpose of the double stitch? To create more room for the heel?
Are you asking what the purpose of a short row is, or are you asking why the double stitch is used at the short row turn rather than another short row technique? If you aren't clear on what short rows are, I have a playlist of short row videos that might be helpful: ua-cam.com/play/PL1AZxTfSCe2cN-DX80Al56SnjN4Um1Uvr.html
@@RoxanneRichardson I understand the short rows but why is it necessary to make double stitches? Does that contribute to the appearance of the heel? Thank you so much for the video. I want to start doing this heel rather than reinforced heel. My toes wear out not my heels.
I’m not understanding what those pulled double stitches do?
This video compares a variety of short row methods, and explains what the purpose is of short row techniques (whether you use German short rows or another short row technique) ua-cam.com/video/yYk6BUeSgBA/v-deo.html
is this available in hindi??
You should be able to click on the Closed Captions icon at the bottom of the video screen to turn on captions, and then click on the gear icon next to it to Auto Translate, and then select the language.
Hola!por favor..colocar s
Sorry, but I disagree with your statement that you can't stack GSR turning points. That's how I learned how to do my first short row heel and it worked beautifully!
I know you are knitting historian... Do you have older source materials for the methods?
What would you consider "older"? And what language? Every SR heel in an English-language published pattern that I have found prior to about 1970 has used the same technique described in Weldon's Practical Stocking Knitter, which was published in the 1880s. The result is similar to GSRs, but slightly different. Sock knitting was not terribly popular from the 1960s to 1990s, so I haven't found many published sources. The resurgence of sock knitting in the early 2000s likely the result of Regia's innovation of self-striping sock yarn. At that point, several SR techniques that were common in other sorts of garments seem to have been brought into sock knitting, rather than using the technique that had been around in the 100+ years prior.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you :) There have been designers who try to "copyright" some of these methods, and I know they are old! (even if such a thing were copyright-able, they are absolutely prior art) With respect to the German methods, it's my understanding (without proof) that all three are ancient.
@@VickiFletcherPDX I wouldn't say ancient, unless you consider 150 years ancient. Heel flap and gusset construction was by far the most common method for knitting stockings and socks, well into the early 21st century. It's still arguably more common than various short row heel constructions. Hand knit SR heels developed from the heels knit on circular sock machines, once those machines evolved to be able to knit back and forth (which allowed a heel to be inserted as the sock was knitted).
@@RoxanneRichardson good info! I did suspect the Germans of having this going on for far longer, but I am not the expert, for sure! BTW - your videos are much appreciated... as far as I am concerned you have some of the best techniques paired with the ability to explain them! I have learned!
Like you, my heel diagonal is proportionately large... small foot with a big heel! SR heels have not been my fave! Currently working on one that has mini-gussets on the sole and above the back of the heel which prompted others to ask questions about which heel I used. Sent them here ;)
So confusing
Liebe roxanne kannst du keine deutsche Videos machen bitte
You can turn on closed captions that will automatically translate to German. Maybe that will help.
The words on the screen prevent me from seeing what you’re doing.