Look at f1 brake discs, lmp1, lmp2, gt1 and gt2 brake discs and you will find non drilled, non dimpled, non sloted smooth brake discs. The dimples, drilled holes, and slots have 3 effects. 1) reduced surface area for the pad to grip on resulting in less possible friction. 2) drilled holes and slots carved in to the disc create the perfect places for cracks to form. 3) the look of drilled/slotted discs helps to remove more money out of the pocket of lesser informed buyers. Why pay more for a less effective and less durable product?
Carbon rotors used in F1 and lmp1 are very very strong and good at dissipating heat. the cars also have massive air ducts to further cool the brakes. On top of that, those pads actually work best when they're nice and hot. Their expensive design makes them very fade resistant and they don't really produce gasses. So with heat not being an issue, the f1 and lmp1 teams opt to maximize surface contact with the brake pads for maximum braking power...drills and slotting does work. More surface area open to air means higher rate of cooling. At the cost of less pad contact.
Wrong. Carbon ceramic don't suffer with glazing like steel discs and pads do. The thermal properties of carbon ceramic is totally different also so you are comparing apples and oranges. C hook and drilled discs help with de-glazing of the pad material and ventilation of gases. Also as per what Quinton Walsh explains, F1 cars have air ducting and the pads are ENTIRELY different to road car pads and operate better at much higher temperatures. You simply cannot compare carbon ceramic with much cheaper carbon steel.
Hammer Smith I would disagree. My car is a daily, and I downshift/engine brake everytime I slow down or come to a stop. Barely touch the brakes till I need to drop it in neutral @ 1k rpm. Tell me how that isn't extending my brake life
Man from Nantucket and engaging your clutch isnt wearing it? Yh I'll still to replacing brake pads rather than clutches. Also when you brake your brake lights come on warning people behind youre slowing, so potentially what youre doing by down shifting is dangerous too. I heel and toe that way you wont surprise anyone behind whos not quite paying attention.
StevEazyB Another advantage to downshifting is keeping the DFCO going. So not only are you saving brakes, you're also saving fuel. It's win-win. The clutch is designed to be used. I don't see the issue in using it for its intended purpose. Find it very difficult to heel-n-toe because a) I'm not very good at it, and b) there's literally no need to in city driving
Didn't slotted discs have the advantage of even brake-disc wear -> no grooves running along the brake disc. At the cost of greater brake pad wear? Does anyone know if this is just a myth?
It's an Mazda RX-8 R3 facelift model (2009-2011) from car throttle's "automotive misfits" video. The owner has them installed, you can clearly see in that video that they really say "Maserati". The original calipers are smaller.
What about high-carbon steel discs ? Why some discs cost 40 € and some 100€ when they have the same spec on paper, made for the same car and only differ by the brand ? I'm running 30€ discs (piece) on my e93 330i and they stand pretty good for now
Track pads on brembo vented blank rotors always do the trivk for trackdays. They're pretty affordable, don't get a shudder even after a few hard trackdays. No complaints at all. Although i would like to upgrade to rotors with a higher carbon content and slots soon.
Please go over What RPM you should shift at when daily driving, because I always argue whenver my dad shifts at 2.5k RPM just to then speed up 5 MPH. I personally shift at like 1.8/1.9k RPM on flat surfaces and 2.2k or more if needed on hills. Also cover if it is bad to daily shift at 3k RPM or even 5k RPM.
For day to day driving, in normal conditions you shift up as soon as the cars torque curve will allow. So if you shift out of 2nd at 2000rpm and into 3rd and the engine doesnt struggle or labour, then thats fine. As for high RPM, my Saab has 220,000 miles on it, and i hit 5.5 to 6k maybe 4 times a day on average. For the last 9yrs and shes still fine. Knocking out 360bhp, and 40mpg on a long run.
Some nice, well maintained and treated car Like my BMW. and 1.8k RPM is more than enough for my engine as it doesn't struggle. And as for my dad, He revs way to much. Ok sure fine idm the hooonage as long as engine is warm and you revmatch, but my dad never revmatches as he calls it "bullshit". Me personally, can revmatch in any car, but *not my own which is annoying and I always mess up the revmatches..
You can't really answer that one as every car is different. Different gear ratios and power and towwue figures and weights. My partners 1.6 mini around town like being changed low. But my mum's 1.0 3 cylinder Suzuki alto like at least another 1k before changing gear otherwise it lugs.
Really depends on what you have, an RX-8? Good luck... Driving a truck that redlines at 3800rpm, I probably wouldn't make a habit of shifting after 3k.
Depends on the car, Our B5 2.8 Passat doesnt like anything less then 2 grand but you can also bang out 7 grand shifts all day long and doesnt bat an eye.
I find plain rotors with good quality ceramic pads work best for daily driving with frequent hard braking. Ceramic pads dissipate heat better so discs don’t tend to warp and the pads last. Seems to be the best value and performance for daily driving.
Discs don't generally warp. In fact its extremely difficult to warp a disc its a total misnomer. They get disc thickness variation due to improper fitting most of the time.
Can you explain why carbon ceramic disc seems to have a more random drilled holes (no particular pattern) as compared to cross drilled steel disc where the hole pattern is pretty obvious.
A brake disk with dimples and slots on it can be used as a ware indicator, so you can look at the car and know right away if it needs new brakes or not.
solid plain all around haha. guess designers decided thats enough. And in normal driving it is. i would assume vented would be the way to go for any track like driving
No mention on the important weight differences between the solid and vented discs using similar material ?.. I assume the vented disc is marginally lighter and reduces unsprung mass
No drilled disks for me. They always seem to crack and warp. I always run plain vented up front, solid rear. I wanna try slotted though and see if it has any benefits.
Brakes are too heavy man... I just shove a metal rod into the ground through my floor to stop. It breaks in half a lot though, so I often use reverse gear to stop as well.
Had vented slotted ones and pad buildup caused some vibration. Vented plain faces fix that issue. I’ve seen very expensive drilled brakes fail at the track so I advice anyone against those unless you want looks on a street driven car.
I love you guys, but really you didnt help me decide what to buy for my cls 500, ill go with standart. CAN YOU MAKE A VIDEO FOLLOWING TO THIS ONE FOR THE DIFFERENCES OF CHEAP AND EXPENSIVE BRAKE PADS
What about audi discs? The wavey ones? Like on modern dirt bikes. My mate argues that it's abs. But I can still lock the wheels up on my wavey discs. Where as I maintain. It's to pull cold air through the caliper.
Drilled and grooved etc are usually a waste of money, but they do look cool..... if you want to find out whats a good braking set up for you car good tip is to check out a race series that use your car and check how they're set up, might surprise you how reasonable these set ups are on the wallet and how effective still!
in an emergency full brake lock test on a non abs equipped car, a flat surface disc will stop better than a vented/drilled disc due to more contact patch, however in a situation where u would be on a track doing lap after lap or a long distance of mountain spirited driving which requires hard braking but not emergency braking, then vented is better than a flat surface, in other words unless u are gonna race for more than a minute straight with plenty of mountain corners, or do more than 2 laps, a quality flat surface disc with quality carbon pads is sufficient and won't make any noticeable difference in the results, I have dba street series discs with carbon pads, I've never felt brake fade since after minutes of spirited driving
If you have the right pads fitted, temp and Mu factor, you really don't need anything other than a plan vented disc. Pads give you seconds of your lap times on a track, slots, dimples, drilled holes might give you a few tenths.
For those of us who like cycling as well as cars... Try to imagine the rim brake vs disc brake argument in this context. Let me explain this to car guys. Road cyclists insist on rim brakes because their lighter etc. So they spend TWO GRAND!! on TWO carbon wheels. Wheels which have a brake track which the "rim" brakes clamp on. So when you brake you are literally pissing the cost of a full engine rebuild INTO THE WIND!!!!
PROcrastiDRIVE SV Why is that??? Road cyclists have no need for mega-powerful four-piston hydraulic brakes. Light and simple rim brakes work perfectly well.
If you dont race your car, or drive down hill with heavy load, plain rotors will work fine. If your brakes over heats. You need bigger brakes. Just couple slots on a already vented rotor does nothing substantial.
fact: you forgot to tell the audition about the dust it throws on the wheels and on discs, to avoid the amount of dust it goes all over the wheels people need to buy discs with lines, j's or c's on them with those strap lines they are more efficient!
Plain vented for daily driving, slotted for the track. You won't be taking advantage from the slotted brakes out in the road. Also your best brakes are your tires.
Well if there’s no real need for drilled and slotted discs due to modern brake pad technology then there’s no debate surely? The best would obviously be plain curve-vented and C-hook curve-vented.🤔🤷🏻♂️
Cross drilled are junk, I've cracked them completely through. Yes factory pads don't really create the gas anymore, however if you use aftermarket pads for better brake performance like I do you should use dimpled or slotted rotors because they can create gas at very high temperatures that you'll experience on track.
If you want to make your daily street driving car brakes faster, don't just install drilled, slotted, or anything but vented plain disc. Paint your brake caliper red instead.
calliper placement makes little to no difference and is up to the manufacturer. The lower they are the lower the CG but they have a small mass and very little height changes so it really makes no difference.
i would prefer front and rear diskbreaks over front disk and rear drum, but at my range, i would have to order the highest version of cars for that.. over 20k, for a fucking small car, not being capable of anything my atm 9 year old car isnt yet of - did i write this before? have a hard deja vu atm.....
clutchthepearls ofcourse it does to check disc warp and what your saying is correct, but in the way the video and audio was presented it made it seem as though it should be a thermometer, because they didnt say anything about disc warp, but you're correct im not saying what you said was wrong.
cross drilled discs help when you drive through a puddle of water as you won’t have a layer of water between the pad and rotor when you first apply the brakes
i got no brakes weight reduction bro
Are you that Jesse with VWJetta from Fast&Furious 1? :DD
Those things are quite heavy...
Lol you call that weight reduction, I got rid of my motor and transmission
Diego Abreu lol
You won't even need them, since you can take any turn at way higher speeds, because of the weight reduction
Who needs brakediscs when you got a handbrake? *(Deja-vu intesifies)*
Everyone. The handbrake mechanically pushes the brakepads together.
Tibor Klein that was the joke
r/woosh
Some cars have drum brakes for the handbrake. So
Leo Kemetli Let go of the dream that you want to be funny. You'll be happier that way.
Who needs brake discs when you have good shoe's and a hole in the floor
Shazzkid Good ol' Flintstones
Finally a connaisseur here ;)!
Look at f1 brake discs, lmp1, lmp2, gt1 and gt2 brake discs and you will find non drilled, non dimpled, non sloted smooth brake discs. The dimples, drilled holes, and slots have 3 effects. 1) reduced surface area for the pad to grip on resulting in less possible friction. 2) drilled holes and slots carved in to the disc create the perfect places for cracks to form. 3) the look of drilled/slotted discs helps to remove more money out of the pocket of lesser informed buyers. Why pay more for a less effective and less durable product?
Carbon rotors used in F1 and lmp1 are very very strong and good at dissipating heat. the cars also have massive air ducts to further cool the brakes. On top of that, those pads actually work best when they're nice and hot. Their expensive design makes them very fade resistant and they don't really produce gasses. So with heat not being an issue, the f1 and lmp1 teams opt to maximize surface contact with the brake pads for maximum braking power...drills and slotting does work. More surface area open to air means higher rate of cooling. At the cost of less pad contact.
It's stupid, right? I always laugh when I see these poser-cars with their big rims and flashy drilled brake disks.
Wrong. Carbon ceramic don't suffer with glazing like steel discs and pads do. The thermal properties of carbon ceramic is totally different also so you are comparing apples and oranges. C hook and drilled discs help with de-glazing of the pad material and ventilation of gases. Also as per what Quinton Walsh explains, F1 cars have air ducting and the pads are ENTIRELY different to road car pads and operate better at much higher temperatures. You simply cannot compare carbon ceramic with much cheaper carbon steel.
Or just take out the brake discs to reduce weight
What nusic do you youst?
Wat music do you youst
Downshifting saves brakes. True fact
Gastón Astore Proper revmatching will not hurt the clutch one bit
Hammer Smith I would disagree. My car is a daily, and I downshift/engine brake everytime I slow down or come to a stop. Barely touch the brakes till I need to drop it in neutral @ 1k rpm. Tell me how that isn't extending my brake life
Man from Nantucket and engaging your clutch isnt wearing it? Yh I'll still to replacing brake pads rather than clutches. Also when you brake your brake lights come on warning people behind youre slowing, so potentially what youre doing by down shifting is dangerous too. I heel and toe that way you wont surprise anyone behind whos not quite paying attention.
StevEazyB Another advantage to downshifting is keeping the DFCO going. So not only are you saving brakes, you're also saving fuel. It's win-win.
The clutch is designed to be used. I don't see the issue in using it for its intended purpose.
Find it very difficult to heel-n-toe because a) I'm not very good at it, and b) there's literally no need to in city driving
Hammer Smith I replied. Now hit me with your Freudian wisdom lol
You think theres a massive amount of confusion with brake discs? Try tyres.
its called black magic for a reason :D its still not 100% defined with math/physics formulas or simulated properly...
Tomas T Not knowing the science isn't akin to that science not existing.
Didn't slotted discs have the advantage of even brake-disc wear -> no grooves running along the brake disc.
At the cost of greater brake pad wear?
Does anyone know if this is just a myth?
GTR R34 Vspec has dimpled and drilled brembos done by nismo. I'm pretty impressed by them
Take 'em off.. They'll just slow you down
Song name?
1:10 Maserati brake callipers and Mazda rims... Wat?
Matthias Schmitt MazdaSpeed maybe? Although I do agree, that looks.a lot like the Maserati writing.
It's an Mazda RX-8 R3 facelift model (2009-2011) from car throttle's "automotive misfits" video.
The owner has them installed, you can clearly see in that video that they really say "Maserati". The original calipers are smaller.
Mazderati
FINALLY. it's time the drilled brake disc was retired from production altogether. I have drilled disks in my car and I absolutely hate them
F1 cars have just vented disc.Why don't own drilled or any other rubbish?Normal ones are the best.Secret is in the pads😉
@@mihai-danut6955 Just vented discs eh? Are we not saying they are made from composite material with carbon fibre? Get educated 😂 What a donut
@@bEEBO178 Sorry Mr. F1 master engineer. He didn’t meant the material you moron
Is this related to the normal car throttle?
My experience with slotted and drilled rotors is they are far more aggressive on pad wear than smooth rotors.
What's the background music
I want them all... more slots, more drilled, more dimples, more of EVERYTHING!!!
What about high-carbon steel discs ? Why some discs cost 40 € and some 100€ when they have the same spec on paper, made for the same car and only differ by the brand ? I'm running 30€ discs (piece) on my e93 330i and they stand pretty good for now
Vented and high-carbon rate on both rear and front
I'd say durability, heat dissipation, particule emited. Oh and brand name ofc
could be steel quality and ofcourse brand
glad it works for you, i had no luck whatsoever with anything i tried except oem bmw (e36 is what i have)
What about cryo-treated rotors?
Track pads on brembo vented blank rotors always do the trivk for trackdays. They're pretty affordable, don't get a shudder even after a few hard trackdays. No complaints at all. Although i would like to upgrade to rotors with a higher carbon content and slots soon.
Background music?
How does the diameter of the rotor improve performance?
Please go over What RPM you should shift at when daily driving, because I always argue whenver my dad shifts at 2.5k RPM just to then speed up 5 MPH. I personally shift at like 1.8/1.9k RPM on flat surfaces and 2.2k or more if needed on hills. Also cover if it is bad to daily shift at 3k RPM or even 5k RPM.
For day to day driving, in normal conditions you shift up as soon as the cars torque curve will allow. So if you shift out of 2nd at 2000rpm and into 3rd and the engine doesnt struggle or labour, then thats fine.
As for high RPM, my Saab has 220,000 miles on it, and i hit 5.5 to 6k maybe 4 times a day on average. For the last 9yrs and shes still fine. Knocking out 360bhp, and 40mpg on a long run.
Some nice, well maintained and treated car Like my BMW. and 1.8k RPM is more than enough for my engine as it doesn't struggle. And as for my dad, He revs way to much. Ok sure fine idm the hooonage as long as engine is warm and you revmatch, but my dad never revmatches as he calls it "bullshit". Me personally, can revmatch in any car, but *not my own which is annoying and I always mess up the revmatches..
You can't really answer that one as every car is different. Different gear ratios and power and towwue figures and weights. My partners 1.6 mini around town like being changed low. But my mum's 1.0 3 cylinder Suzuki alto like at least another 1k before changing gear otherwise it lugs.
Really depends on what you have, an RX-8? Good luck...
Driving a truck that redlines at 3800rpm, I probably wouldn't make a habit of shifting after 3k.
Depends on the car, Our B5 2.8 Passat doesnt like anything less then 2 grand but you can also bang out 7 grand shifts all day long and doesnt bat an eye.
I find plain rotors with good quality ceramic pads work best for daily driving with frequent hard braking. Ceramic pads dissipate heat better so discs don’t tend to warp and the pads last. Seems to be the best value and performance for daily driving.
Discs don't generally warp. In fact its extremely difficult to warp a disc its a total misnomer. They get disc thickness variation due to improper fitting most of the time.
I prefer drum brakes😂
V-brakes 😂
I own a bicycle 😭
Benjamin Thomas I was looking for this Legendary comment 😂
amen
#metoo
Benjamin Thomas I love drum breaks I only buy cars with drum breaks on the back.
Can you explain why carbon ceramic disc seems to have a more random drilled holes (no particular pattern) as compared to cross drilled steel disc where the hole pattern is pretty obvious.
Are Tarox G88 dics worth the money on cars running stock power? Or is it not a big difference over plain discs? Regardless of pad upgrades.
Plain high quality discs are the ones you should buy and are best value.... but oooohweeee I do lurves me some C hooks! 😍
A brake disk with dimples and slots on it can be used as a ware indicator, so you can look at the car and know right away if it needs new brakes or not.
Vented plain up front, solid plain on the rear
J.G. Brandon on some cars. Not all cars are the same.
J.G. Brandon don't think any of my cars have had vented rotors in the rear... the ones i have now atleast doesn't
Got OEM vented rears. I clearly drive a racecar 😎
solid plain all around haha. guess designers decided thats enough. And in normal driving it is. i would assume vented would be the way to go for any track like driving
That's the setup on my car
Vented slots from stop-tech are my go-to. (Cryo treated)
No mention on the important weight differences between the solid and vented discs using similar material ?.. I assume the vented disc is marginally lighter and reduces unsprung mass
No drilled disks for me. They always seem to crack and warp. I always run plain vented up front, solid rear. I wanna try slotted though and see if it has any benefits.
Who does the voice over on these videos?
Brakes are too heavy man... I just shove a metal rod into the ground through my floor to stop. It breaks in half a lot though, so I often use reverse gear to stop as well.
Had vented slotted ones and pad buildup caused some vibration. Vented plain faces fix that issue. I’ve seen very expensive drilled brakes fail at the track so I advice anyone against those unless you want looks on a street driven car.
I will say that if you decide to use slotted discs the brake dust factor goes up substantially especially when using aggressive pad compounds
I love you guys, but really you didnt help me decide what to buy for my cls 500, ill go with standart. CAN YOU MAKE A VIDEO FOLLOWING TO THIS ONE FOR THE DIFFERENCES OF CHEAP AND EXPENSIVE BRAKE PADS
What about audi discs? The wavey ones? Like on modern dirt bikes. My mate argues that it's abs. But I can still lock the wheels up on my wavey discs. Where as I maintain. It's to pull cold air through the caliper.
I Like the Combination of dimpled and slotted, although in cars With a normal Brake caliper it eats your brake pads away fast
Drilled and grooved etc are usually a waste of money, but they do look cool..... if you want to find out whats a good braking set up for you car good tip is to check out a race series that use your car and check how they're set up, might surprise you how reasonable these set ups are on the wallet and how effective still!
Plain cause daily driver
in an emergency full brake lock test on a non abs equipped car, a flat surface disc will stop better than a vented/drilled disc due to more contact patch, however in a situation where u would be on a track doing lap after lap or a long distance of mountain spirited driving which requires hard braking but not emergency braking, then vented is better than a flat surface, in other words unless u are gonna race for more than a minute straight with plenty of mountain corners, or do more than 2 laps, a quality flat surface disc with quality carbon pads is sufficient and won't make any noticeable difference in the results, I have dba street series discs with carbon pads, I've never felt brake fade since after minutes of spirited driving
Totally agree !!!
I like the vented slotted
I have dimples & grooved/slotted on my Corsa VXR and they make an annoying ass clicking noise under braking or if your caliper is seized like mine lol
Slotted, drilled etc will eat up your pads quicker than plain disks. I stick to plain but vented disks
1:32 those are wood drill nits
why hatchback are more responsive compared with mini suv even they have same engine displacement?
Govin Lock Weight
Yes non drilled ist the way to Go.
Personally i didnt Upgrade the size of the Disks but installed better quality Disks and Pads.
If you have the right pads fitted, temp and Mu factor, you really don't need anything other than a plan vented disc. Pads give you seconds of your lap times on a track, slots, dimples, drilled holes might give you a few tenths.
slotted because it looks nice and doesn´t really cost more (at least for an e36 ATE disc)
For those of us who like cycling as well as cars...
Try to imagine the rim brake vs disc brake argument in this context.
Let me explain this to car guys. Road cyclists insist on rim brakes because their lighter etc. So they spend TWO GRAND!! on TWO carbon wheels. Wheels which have a brake track which the "rim" brakes clamp on. So when you brake you are literally pissing the cost of a full engine rebuild INTO THE WIND!!!!
PROcrastiDRIVE SV Why is that??? Road cyclists have no need for mega-powerful four-piston hydraulic brakes. Light and simple rim brakes work perfectly well.
I am not a fan of Car Throttle videos, but this isn't a half-bad video.
Vented & slotted all the way.🚘🏁
Timur Hafouz lol you dumb
What about two piece rotors?? By the way I prefer Slotted Rotors. Brembo w/ UV Coating
Slots on the disc are to shave the pads to a fresh layer of material tho.
Directional vented-slotted or hooks discs
Why does a Mazda have Maserati calipers ?
I just switched my R32 GTR to DBA rotors, which are slotted and kangaroo paw vented. They are way better than the drilled stock ones.
Who needs brakea when u got the Flinstone car
Do a vid on why diesel cars are more fuel efficient please
You forgot to mention that there are directional disks due to their internal construction, and also that there are two piece/floating disks.
Plain vented at the front, drums with pressure repartition at he back. But my car weights only 780kg so it is more than enough
cut star-shaped holes on the disc to assert dominance.
If you dont race your car, or drive down hill with heavy load, plain rotors will work fine. If your brakes over heats. You need bigger brakes. Just couple slots on a already vented rotor does nothing substantial.
As long as the vehicle brakes - that's all that matters at the end of the day! 😃
Floating discs?
fact: you forgot to tell the audition about the dust it throws on the wheels and on discs, to avoid the amount of dust it goes all over the wheels people need to buy discs with lines, j's or c's on them with those strap lines they are more efficient!
Plain vented for daily driving, slotted for the track. You won't be taking advantage from the slotted brakes out in the road. Also your best brakes are your tires.
i prefer the old fashion braking method. you stick your foot out Flintstones style to bring the car to a stop.
Well if there’s no real need for drilled and slotted discs due to modern brake pad technology then there’s no debate surely? The best would obviously be plain curve-vented and C-hook curve-vented.🤔🤷🏻♂️
My moms Volkswagen type r is faster than my dads nissan supra because she drilled holes in her piston intake and put elbow grease in the gas tank.
Cross drilled are junk, I've cracked them completely through. Yes factory pads don't really create the gas anymore, however if you use aftermarket pads for better brake performance like I do you should use dimpled or slotted rotors because they can create gas at very high temperatures that you'll experience on track.
Not to mention the cheese grater effect of a drilled disk on your pads.
Hmmm I'll stick to my anchors.
Directionally-vented plain discs with extra thickness of rotors... like WRC cars
If you want to make your daily street driving car brakes faster, don't just install drilled, slotted, or anything but vented plain disc. Paint your brake caliper red instead.
10:10 Maserati brakes on a Mazda..... k
I prefer the mixed type.
lamborghini huracan flower discs?
Why break callipers(probably wrong) at the rear at some cars are sometimes at the left and sometimes right. Get it?
calliper placement makes little to no difference and is up to the manufacturer. The lower they are the lower the CG but they have a small mass and very little height changes so it really makes no difference.
Liam Cooper oohhh good to know. Thanks man
all good mate
Slotted ftw!
The hell are Maserati brakes doing in a Mazda? x'D
J. Stormer cause FIAT lol
Conclusion
Paint them red.
brakes dont help you go fast so i got rid of em
Sick guy !!!
i would prefer front and rear diskbreaks over front disk and rear drum, but at my range, i would have to order the highest version of cars for that.. over 20k, for a fucking small car, not being capable of anything my atm 9 year old car isnt yet of - did i write this before? have a hard deja vu atm.....
My Trunk Monkey will throw out a boat anchor when i need to slow down or stop.
1:17 thats a DTI gauge not a thermometers 😂
Howy Yeah, but uneven heating and cooling can cause runout issues within the metal and with the pads leaving buildup, so it kinda makes sense.
clutchthepearls ofcourse it does to check disc warp and what your saying is correct, but in the way the video and audio was presented it made it seem as though it should be a thermometer, because they didnt say anything about disc warp, but you're correct im not saying what you said was wrong.
You forget solid disc can glaze witch is why you have cut discs
cross drilled discs help when you drive through a puddle of water as you won’t have a layer of water between the pad and rotor when you first apply the brakes
Most high end rotors are not drilled they are part of the casting process.
Thanks for having the intelligence to not call them "rotors"
Bigger plain discs are far better that drilled or slotted ones
thank you for the truth , but what was the lie?
Drum-brakes are the best!
Fred Flintstone didn't use them he just used his feet.
This is why I prefer drum brakes.
Why?
Max France
Point bro, point