OMG I laughed my ass off because I did almost the same thing trying to machine a part from a Toyota CV axle shaft. That material was as tough as a boiled owl's beak and probably had a 250,000 PSI yield. Carbide would cut it, but the surface finish was horrible AND it work hardened with each attempt to cut. I could take off 0.025" but not 0.005". I wasted several hours and then gave up! NOW I label every piece of material I have on hand, especially aluminum, cuz there are many unweldable alloys out there in the wild.
Can tell hot roll and cold roll stock by feel…hot roll is rough cold roll smooth…you can get hot roll shiny with abrasives…also the scale on hot roll usually a pretty good tell
That bar cuts like a chrome vanadium socket extension, all chewy and horrible. I was desperate at the time and an old extension was all I had. I stopped before you did 🤣🤣🤣
Hey Keith, don't worry had almost the same problem while machining a valve for my motorcycle engine. Was not 100 focused on the job, picked the wrong materials and on the opposite wondered why it was so easy to work.... When testing the engine the valve was not robust enough and destroyed itself, at this moment I took it a day. At the next day I found out instead of the proper steel, I used cast iron and had to spend the next hours of cleaning every part of the engine from the small debris. We all learn from our mistakes :)
Having got maybe 100 different raw materials and I don't want to make a small internal combustion engine conrod out of 2011-T3 or 6061-T6 al. alloy when it should be made from 2024-T3 high tensile al. alloy, I engrave the raw material specification on BOTH ends of the bar. That ensures that I do not risk having an unidentifed piece of material if I inadvertantly machine the description off a single marked bar. Machining cast iron creates both very friable small chips and also releases graphite dust. That bar in the video is a hot rolled steel and could be - anything!
Thank You for sharing this excellent video. It was a lot of fun watching and learning. You have a wonderful way with words. Get extremely well very soon!
I am glad to see your video. I've been fiidling with a toy lathe and learning that some steel turns nice, while other material (especially after I"ve welded it up) does not turn so well. I was happy to see your comments on a threaded spindle as i have a big willson lathe with a threaded spindle and i was trying to figure out how to deal with it.
It's been 50 years ago last time I used a lathe. I'd used some state of the art tungsten carbide interchangeable 6-sided tips and the teacher was blown away never seen that before. Servisol 10 is very clever it has a mild acid in it but as I remember it's supposed to be sillycone free. Edit: tool was pilfered from DeHaviland Hatfield
I usually use a centre punch to mark the steel grade on the end i.e. EN8, 303 etc. I say 'usually' but I still seem to end up with unmarked and unknown chunks of 'no ideaium' in my metal stash....
Looks like every time I go into the workshop. Nothing ever works first time, or usually second or third either. Those mystery steels are annoying, sometimes you get one that won't turn cleanly, or seems to have hard spots in it.
It's Lowmore iron , barely steel with the high carbon content , try as you might always a crap finish the cheapest black bar you can find , free cutting steel is ok for shiny work but not much strength , I'm retired now ( thank god) 50 odd years before the lathe / miller / drill / horizontal - vertical borers and grinders . . . I haven't missed it ONE BIT .
Hi Keith Hope you don’t mind me asking a question. It’s not related to this particular video. I noticed you had a Mamod TE1a. Being new to the world of steam, do Mamod engines need to be tested and hold a certificate? Would appreciate your expertise. Thanks
While not knowing the turning characteristics of all steels, it acts like a genuine piece of wrought iron. Similar to plain medium carbon steel when machining for good surface finish, that machine good with speed and carbide but generally the W I will not clean up. Feel better.
Hi chap sorry but from my limited experience from when I did metalwork at school, we were always told to use cutting compound … so many seem to forsake it’s use these days, surely it will burn your tool out and hence you will have blunt tools which will result in a rough finish? Sorry not being judgemental and I thought straight away that that is a piece of mild steel.
OMG I laughed my ass off because I did almost the same thing trying to machine a part from a Toyota CV axle shaft. That material was as tough as a boiled owl's beak and probably had a 250,000 PSI yield. Carbide would cut it, but the surface finish was horrible AND it work hardened with each attempt to cut. I could take off 0.025" but not 0.005". I wasted several hours and then gave up! NOW I label every piece of material I have on hand, especially aluminum, cuz there are many unweldable alloys out there in the wild.
Hot rolled steel bar, instantly recognisable if you've had it before, I've never managed to get a good finish either.
Yes, the mill scale looked pretty obvious on the video. Maybe not as much when you're a bit under the weather. That stuff never turns nicely.
yup, that's what it looks like to me, with hot rolled ms bar its "tearing not turning"
Figured that too
Can tell hot roll and cold roll stock by feel…hot roll is rough cold roll smooth…you can get hot roll shiny with abrasives…also the scale on hot roll usually a pretty good tell
You need a large stout lathe and negative rake carbide tools. It'll have a nice finish if you take a big enough cut.
That bar cuts like a chrome vanadium socket extension, all chewy and horrible. I was desperate at the time and an old extension was all I had. I stopped before you did 🤣🤣🤣
Hey Keith,
don't worry had almost the same problem while machining a valve for my motorcycle engine. Was not 100 focused on the job, picked the wrong materials and on the opposite wondered why it was so easy to work....
When testing the engine the valve was not robust enough and destroyed itself, at this moment I took it a day.
At the next day I found out instead of the proper steel, I used cast iron and had to spend the next hours of cleaning every part of the engine from the small debris.
We all learn from our mistakes :)
I LOVE your commentary! So entertaining!
Thank you }:-)))
Having got maybe 100 different raw materials and I don't want to make a small internal combustion engine conrod out of 2011-T3 or 6061-T6 al. alloy when it should be made from 2024-T3 high tensile al. alloy, I engrave the raw material specification on BOTH ends of the bar. That ensures that I do not risk having an unidentifed piece of material if I inadvertantly machine the description off a single marked bar.
Machining cast iron creates both very friable small chips and also releases graphite dust. That bar in the video is a hot rolled steel and could be - anything!
I only use about 4 or 5 different materials. I don't know where this stuff came from.
Thank You for sharing this excellent video. It was a lot of fun watching and learning. You have a wonderful way with words. Get extremely well very soon!
Thank you so much 🤗
I am glad to see your video. I've been fiidling with a toy lathe and learning that some steel turns nice, while other material (especially after I"ve welded it up) does not turn so well. I was happy to see your comments on a threaded spindle as i have a big willson lathe with a threaded spindle and i was trying to figure out how to deal with it.
It's been 50 years ago last time I used a lathe. I'd used some state of the art tungsten carbide interchangeable 6-sided tips and the teacher was blown away never seen that before. Servisol 10 is very clever it has a mild acid in it but as I remember it's supposed to be sillycone free.
Edit: tool was pilfered from DeHaviland Hatfield
Blame the tablets Keith, I do all the time! That's a knarley bit of bar. Not sure what you'd use it for. Door prop perhaps? 😊
I usually use a centre punch to mark the steel grade on the end i.e. EN8, 303 etc.
I say 'usually' but I still seem to end up with unmarked and unknown chunks of 'no ideaium' in my metal stash....
Looks like every time I go into the workshop. Nothing ever works first time, or usually second or third either. Those mystery steels are annoying, sometimes you get one that won't turn cleanly, or seems to have hard spots in it.
It's Lowmore iron , barely steel with the high carbon content , try as you might always a crap finish the cheapest black bar you can find , free cutting steel is ok for shiny work but not much strength , I'm retired now ( thank god) 50 odd years before the lathe / miller / drill / horizontal - vertical borers and grinders . . . I haven't missed it ONE BIT .
Some days it aint worth getting out of bed...... but, we'll get there in the end.
it looks like 01tool st could beD3 o1 is the same spek as gauge plate there is more to say on this but i cant remember ttfn&ty
Wish you a happy New Year and a calm weekend. Regards from sunny Peru.
Thank you! You too!
Hi Keith
Hope you don’t mind me asking a question. It’s not related to this particular video. I noticed you had a Mamod TE1a. Being new to the world of steam, do Mamod engines need to be tested and hold a certificate?
Would appreciate your expertise.
Thanks
No, they are very low pressure vessels and don't require a test certificate.
Thank you
The horrible finish on that bar looks like what I get when using iron from my construction supplier instead of the metal market.
Wishing you a swift recovery Mr K.😊
Thank you kindly {:-)))
He he. I won’t judge as I’m not professional myself, nice video, very interesting
Thanks for watching!
i'd be putting that bar of steel back with prybar only stamped into the end of it or maybe even ballast only
I won't be using it again - I don't need to stamp it, as I know where it lives }:-)))
'bout triple the rpm there for carbide and she'll cut clean.
That or just use HSS for small diameters.
While not knowing the turning characteristics of all steels, it acts like a genuine piece of wrought iron. Similar to plain medium carbon steel when machining for good surface finish, that machine good with speed and carbide but generally the W I will not clean up. Feel better.
Hi chap sorry but from my limited experience from when I did metalwork at school, we were always told to use cutting compound … so many seem to forsake it’s use these days, surely it will burn your tool out and hence you will have blunt tools which will result in a rough finish? Sorry not being judgemental and I thought straight away that that is a piece of mild steel.
I used some in one of the videos - did you miss that? It made no difference. Carbide tips work fine in the home workshop without cutting compound.
Keith been there like you got the tea-shirt
your mistakes are your training if you learn from them /
Yes indeed . . . .
Hi Keith. Happy new mate.
Same to you!
Hope your feeling well Keith.
I feel fine thanks }:-)))
Ah, you can come and visit my inanities any time. I am sure I wold learn a great deal!
I've used the same material that i was given - i hate it and will never use it again
I hope you found out what caused the issue?
Crappy Metal Syndrome }:-)))
Looks like hot rolled steel
Looks like cold rolled steel
IMO cold rolled wouldn't have that mill scale on it, it would look a lot cleaner.
It looks like black mild steel...The cheapest of the cheap
Why don't you mark you material with a paint pen....I see a lot of people who don't mark anything ??????
I never thought of that ........ }:-)))