When we built our house i had local lumber yard bid roof trusses and used their drawings to make my own. Instead of gussets we cut each board long and overlapped each joint then thru bolted each joint with 3/8 bolts. Still standing and very strong 30 years later. The issue was that with overlap the 2 sides of the roof were off 1.5 inches from each other and caused issues sheathing it but otherwise worked great and cheaper
As with most jurisdictions we can't use self made trusses without engineering approval. Most engineers are willing to make a simple drawing and put their stamp on it at a minimal cost.
Hi Jay, this is fantastic work. Is there anywhere I could find an exact diagram of this truss you built that would include the dimensions of the various members? Thank you.
Thanks so much for this vid! I feel confident enough to tackle this myself after watching you build it. I saw you use the Titebond III, but what size , type nails were you using? Thanks so much!
Jay, does your web pattern reverse from one side to the other? It looks like it does in the video. If yes, is that intentional and what is the reason and benefit? Thanks! 😁👍
I did reverse my trusses and wish I did not do so, since it prevented me from running my main plumbing drain inside my trusses. Since my trusses are 10’6” high, I can easily get away with running my main drain in a box out which gives me access to the drain if needed.
I over engineered my trusses a bit. I was surprised to receive actual dimensions of trusses from a bid from a local truss company before I decided to build my own.
@@jaypatterson1780 Without pressed connector plates on the joints you have not engineered anything. The MiTek floor joists are designed with connector plates at each joint transferring the forces from each web into and out of the top and bottom members. A couple of nails at each joint will not do it.
The webbing is secured by two 3" ring shank framing nails on each end and glued with Titebond III wood glue. Both sides of the web joints are reinforced by 1/2" plywood gussets that are also glued and stapled every 2 inches.
Building inspector here, they would not be allowed and would not pass inspection. Better off just buying some floor joists that are approved and ready to go vs wasting time building something that wouldn’t be allowed by building codes.
Just subscribed ! Your a one man army ! Showing people how to save and diy with the ease thanks man ! 🙏
You bet! Happy to share!
Скажите, сколько метров ферма в длину и в высоту?
Глаза боятся - руки делают!
Really appreciate seeing this kind of content!
When we built our house i had local lumber yard bid roof trusses and used their drawings to make my own. Instead of gussets we cut each board long and overlapped each joint then thru bolted each joint with 3/8 bolts. Still standing and very strong 30 years later. The issue was that with overlap the 2 sides of the roof were off 1.5 inches from each other and caused issues sheathing it but otherwise worked great and cheaper
Obrigado por seu vídeo. Me ensinou bastante. Ganhou um inscrito aqui do Sul do Brasil.
As with most jurisdictions we can't use self made trusses without engineering approval. Most engineers are willing to make a simple drawing and put their stamp on it at a minimal cost.
This isn't a job for city folks.
Hi Jay, this is fantastic work. Is there anywhere I could find an exact diagram of this truss you built that would include the dimensions of the various members? Thank you.
Get the spec sheet for floor trusses from any manufacturer online.
I wonder if you where to add a sheet of osb on the sides if that would add very much strength to what it already can do
Thanks so much for this vid! I feel confident enough to tackle this myself after watching you build it. I saw you use the Titebond III, but what size , type nails were you using? Thanks so much!
I used 21 degree 3” ribbed plastic coated framing nails. That is what fits my dewalt 20v XR nail gun.
What size nails does one have to use in nail gun for this kind of truss???
How much weight will one of those support in the middle?
Informative video.. . I'm a truss designer it's a pleasure if I can help in any case of trusses designing
What is the max length for these trusses?
Jay, does your web pattern reverse from one side to the other? It looks like it does in the video. If yes, is that intentional and what is the reason and benefit? Thanks! 😁👍
I did reverse my trusses and wish I did not do so, since it prevented me from running my main plumbing drain inside my trusses. Since my trusses are 10’6” high, I can easily get away with running my main drain in a box out which gives me access to the drain if needed.
@@jaypatterson1780 Thank you for replying. Having a hard time understanding! 😁👍
where did you get the plans for these? and what is the projected psf loading? I'm looking to do the same in my shop building.
www.mitek-us.com/wp-content/uploads/uploadedFiles/_RedesignSite/Content/documents/engineering/tech-articles/getting-started/TECH2-%20wyntk-%20Truss%20facts%20for%20eng%20and%20arc.pdf
Mine are 14.5” high and 20’ 6” long. I put 3/4” tongue and Groove plywood on top.
I over engineered my trusses a bit. I was surprised to receive actual dimensions of trusses from a bid from a local truss company before I decided to build my own.
@@jaypatterson1780 Without pressed connector plates on the joints you have not engineered anything. The MiTek floor joists are designed with connector plates at each joint transferring the forces from each web into and out of the top and bottom members. A couple of nails at each joint will not do it.
I agree with you. The video does not show the 1/2" gussets I glued and stapled with 2" staples on each side of every joint.
How did you decide on the size of the gussets?
I went with 1/2 OSB. I basically made sure my gussets extended 6” past each joint.
If any of those diagonals are in tension, is the only thing holding them in place two nails and wood glue?
The webbing is secured by two 3" ring shank framing nails on each end and glued with Titebond III wood glue. Both sides of the web joints are reinforced by 1/2" plywood gussets that are also glued and stapled every 2 inches.
They are not in tension. All compression.
There are all in compression. Either way they are not going anywhere. It is designed to be strong in the vertical axis only.
You got your diagonal in the upper section (as viewed) in the wrong direction
i was told that I would have to have an engineer stamp on these if I wanted to use these in ohio. do you know if this is true?
Where my build is, it does not require permitting. I also did not finance this construction project and pay cash as I go.
This is not a project for city folk.
Building inspector here, they would not be allowed and would not pass inspection. Better off just buying some floor joists that are approved and ready to go vs wasting time building something that wouldn’t be allowed by building codes.
Mind your own business you government tyrant.
You city folk can buy them fancy store-bought trusses iffin' you want.
Not everyone lives in a place where you have to ask big brother for permission to build something on your own property.
WHAT THE SPACING BETWEEN WEBS
Very unsafe work area….
I Agree, especially when I found a baby rattlesnake hiding in a pipe.
Yikes 😳
What a horrible idea. Floor trusses are required to be engineered and fabricated by a truss manufacturer.
What is so horrible about it?
Engineer here, these are designed well and will do the job.
And manufacture are real people like him, it just a matter of engineer stamps and signature, nothing horrible about
You city folks can do it however you like.
@@H2oways...His internal webbing does not have compound end cuts which would be needed for compression inside the truss.