GREAT tip about moving the copper shims, that will go in the old memory hole! I always learn something from watching you work, you do a great job explaining things, THANKS!!!
Gday Max, there’s always a first for everything, spray welding is really interesting and I’m thinking it’s not something that can be mastered overnight, I’ll have to look through my brazed carbide, possibly some micro 100 there, I’ll let ya know mate, top job, cheers
G'day Max, Dang good bang up job... Thanks for the full detail explanation and process. The metal spray seems like secret alchemist process. Always amazed that it can bond and form at such low temperatures. Guessing it's a heat driven sintering effect that creates the magic.. Great video will see you next time.. Cheers....ATB...
Hello Max. At the gas turbine overhaul shop I used to work at we did shafts like this constantly. Probably several hundred a month. We also used to build up bearing pockets with a similar metalizing technique. We had large lathes (30" swing with 25 hp motors) for some of these parts. The metallizing powder would wear the shit out of the slideways and after 10 years the lathe would be unusable for high tolerance work even though the motor had probably never exceeded an output of 1 hp. It seemed like a shame that a lathe that could easily peel off .300" a side in 4340 never took a cut deeper than .010". A shaft the size of the one you were working on would probably cost $25,000 USD from the OEM. At those prices the customer would pay enough for the repair that we could afford to replace the lathes as needed. Yours turned out really well for a first time effort. Ken
Hi Max, nearly jumped out of my skin when I saw 435 degrees then realised it was in bananas not Celsius. Used to get a lot of electric motor shafts metal sprayed on the bearing registers, had to use bearing heater to install bearing. Pulling bearing mostly always resulted in the metal spray coming away, but it did the job over many years of service, off to the metal sprayer, kept the economy going. Surprised the Seco tungsten tool wearing between cuts, super abrasive material being machined.
Surprised me as well , but it was only a general grade carbide i think ! I have some very hard grade carbide inserts , i might have to re grind them & sweat them onto a tool shank . 👍
That demonstration looked like as if you had done this many times before. Confidence always plays a huge part. Thanks for the demonstration. Keep it up. Cheers.
Great video Max. Not only very instructional, but with that long adjustment with the jaws, it reminded me of the story of the guy that walked into a bar with an alligator and the punch line was " I would, but don't think I could hold my mouth open that long". Nice to have a good laugh while learning something, cheers.
G'day Max, absolutely fabulous mate, I'm watching this at 5.00am after falling asleep last night night trying to watch ffs lol (it was late) Lots for all of us to learn with this one eh, spray weldingcertainlyseems a very specialised job, thanks for sharing buddy, hope your keeping well
Cheers Ralfy . There is a lot of parameters to stick to . I have a couple of yours to catch up on , you've been pumping them out quicker than i can watch ! 👍
Hello Max and channel. What I so liked in this post was where the lathe technique of quite nice precision as shaft component meets newer, best temp measure (via the hand held tool) and where I believe it is *sintering....as a technique is used to best refresh to a work piece. And what I learned was that as copper shims, slight adjustment can be a method to reach best concentricity. That is to say, best indicated position as to in method, approach a "build up" and further machining. Watching the effortless component as a journeyman (craftsman) reminds me to learn to trust a component set up where further fine adjustment can be practical. And where as my antique lathe has some larger wear as the end user must compensate there for to best result. Also, as method, to protect the bed ways from the operation as flame spray. And the tip as tool post rest to gun distance. Watching, I simply ask myself...."Am I engaged as to best methods to part. And, where I am not afraid to fail. As I try and learn from mistakes. There to test out operation and have a goal as to always, aim for the best part, best safety and have fun. Here, to consider the excellent older machines that can be secured, but with new fixtures and electronics that add to superb result. Thank you Max, for having me along. Your calm comments are brilliant and the view to a machine where long expieriece teaches a shop work flow. Always well done. I really, really enjoy your thoughtful guidance. My personal regards, from half a world away. M.
Great demonstration of allowing the job to "Orbit" in a 4 Jaw chuck to radially align 👌. I like that you've used a relatively large radius to cut the helix, as opposed to a very small screw thread form. Metal spraying is a process I've never seen, enjoyed this video Max. Thanks for sharing.
I never had much luck metal spraying with Eutechtics products, but it was 40 years ago. I got something that looked OK, that then all peeled off as soon as I started the cut. I found the rods to be no better, promised the earth and golden unicorns, got the pigs ear and no silk purse. But it was on board ship with the workshop limitations that imposed.
Great work! This is another way how to repair a non-repairable parts. I would like to use flame spray in another aplications too, as example: bore repairs, make some hard coating layer for part and shafts repair too - as just we seen this action in video.
G'day Max, I own a thermal Metal spray business in Qld. When I do my undercuts I use a fairly worn insert and deliberately set tool about 1mm below centre to try and achieve a very rough surface finish. I have insert grades that stand up for finish machining but you have to use fairly slow surface speeds. I generally go about 25-30 m/min. Similar to what you would use for hss.
Thanks . This powder was really abrasive on the standard grade insert . Speed was 30 m/min , 250 rpm . I have some old inserts for hardened steel , i might sweat onto a tool shank & try . Cheers 👍
Nice demo Max and it finished really nice. I was repairing shaft for a large shear and we sent it to a shop nearby. I think we had to redo it 4 or 5 times before he did what we wanted. Avery slick process when it goes well, cheers mate!
Hi Max. when turning off the spray weld it looked allot like cast iron swarf. I have not done any spray welding, had a seal surface on a motorcycle crankshaft hard chromed then had to grind the seal surface down to size Cheers👍
That it does . It is a very involved process though Lance . Hey , last week i sent you a couple of pictures of a park brake from a JCB truck . Have you ever had anything to do with them before parts wise ? Cheers .
Yep learning experience indeed I had no idea what spray welding actually was. Really cool demonstration! I'm surprised it sticks so good and holds up that's pretty interesting. Be careful around that big ass lathe man I watched some safety vids and them things make me nervous as hell now haha
Thanks . There used to be one video of a guy getting caught in a lathe , i think they may have taken it down . Quite graphic . One of the lathes i used to run along time ago was twice the size of that one , but you can never take any chances or not be in the right frame of mind . Cheers 👍
Yeah I think that was it, it was blurred but still got the idea what was happening with it. It was about complacency I think, was mostly about sleeves and clothes getting caught, and enough to make sure I remember the machine gets respect and awareness all the time! Well that is if I ever get a bigger lathe
As another comment here said most those big lathes you only ever use about 1hp out of the 25 it's capable of why not turn down the motor overload so it'll at least trip out and stop if God forbid anything happened. It would've saved that guy. Most motor overloads are adjustable and if it doesn't have one they aren't too expensive to replace with one that is. Start a cut on a long enough piece of scrap that's a little more that what ya usually do so it's not tripping all the time walk around to the electrical cabinet and turn it down till it trips to set it. And now it can't do what that one in that one vid did. And can crank it back up for the odd job you actually want to take big cuts. The vid I seen the guy actually had the lathe stopped he was holding it back, till he couldn't and it was over. It 100% should have tripped right then I been an electrician for a long time and that was preventable due to someone cranking up the motor overload all the way.
Test on an area that the seal does not run on or a scrap part . The 21032-s powder has a good wear resistance . There are some hard powders but they can only be ground afterwards . 👍
Thanks . As this is a new process to me , i went strictly by the parameters in the Eutectic book . They recommended 0.015 feed or 67tpi for a .030 depth of undercut . But i will use a threading tool next time . Cheers 👍
"Eutectic" is a term I rarely hear - I used to use a eutectic every day in my own role. It's likely the material is present in your body. Dental Amalgam! I don't use a spray accumulation as you do, but otherwise I think the process is very similar. Creation of undercuts free of damaged or weakened material and deposition condensed into that such that "macro-mechanical" retention prevents movement or displacement of the new material which is cut, burnished and polished to perfect shape. Is that largely what I have observed in your video here? I don't know about the undercuts as you refer to the powder "sticking"... yet my understanding of eutectic material was that it would not innately react or fuse with the base substrate. Maybe the ring of material you lay down is using what we term "micro-mechanical" retention to grip onto the substrate? I love building 'stuff' and am an engineer as well as a young retired Dental Surgeon (injuries in Military Service saw me retire) and I love working in a machine shop as much as a theatre operating on patients. Thanks for your interesting and educational videos.
The powder bonds quite good , but has to be applied within tight parameters to work properly . Surface prep , temperatures , spraying distance & you can not touch the prepped surface with your fingers . 👍
Can I ask, if the shaft is hardened, will the spray weld layer be a similar hardness to the shaft? It’s just that if the hardened shaft wore away where the seal ran against it, will the spray weld wear away faster if it’s not as hard as the original hardened steel? Wondering if spray weld can be heat treated after application to harden it then final grind to finished dimension - or would the quenching be likely to cause the spray weld to separate and peel off? 🤷♂️ Just showing my lack of knowledge. Could you not have maybe fitted a speedy sleeve over the worn area? Just thoughts that were running through my head watching this one. Very enjoyable to watch all the same. 👍👍👍
G'day Max. Worked out really well, with a very nice finish. Just wondering in the Initial setup in the 4 jaw chuck, why couldn't you have used the Tail Stock centre to help line the shaft. Great video, waiting to see you metal spray the smaller shaft
Wish you were my neighbor 😃 got crank halfs that could use that. Pretty neat stuff I've seen abomb do this but uses some yellow stuff keeps spray from sticking. But oviously isn't needed
You could do it that way , as long as you are aware of the heat near the centre . The other gear shaft will probably be done that way as there is not much to grip on . Cheers 👍
Ahh, I was amazed that when you changed the position of 2 copper strips that it allowed easier line up and centring of shaft, I learnt so much. Looking forward to the next video.
Lol , i did the conversions on the heat gun . All the spec's in the manual are in Deg F , so that's what i used ! Deg F or C , metric or imperial . I use all equally . 👍
GREAT tip about moving the copper shims, that will go in the old memory hole! I always learn something from watching you work, you do a great job explaining things, THANKS!!!
No worries 👍
Gday Max, there’s always a first for everything, spray welding is really interesting and I’m thinking it’s not something that can be mastered overnight, I’ll have to look through my brazed carbide, possibly some micro 100 there, I’ll let ya know mate, top job, cheers
Cheers Matty . Yes , there is a lot in it & a lot of things to watch out for . 👍
G'day Max, Dang good bang up job... Thanks for the full detail explanation and process. The metal spray seems like secret alchemist process. Always amazed that it can bond and form at such low temperatures. Guessing it's a heat driven sintering effect that creates the magic..
Great video will see you next time..
Cheers....ATB...
Thanks Dean . Because it is a new process for me , i had to go by the book & what the Australian Eutectic manager advised . 👍
Hello Max. At the gas turbine overhaul shop I used to work at we did shafts like this constantly. Probably several hundred a month. We also used to build up bearing pockets with a similar metalizing technique. We had large lathes (30" swing with 25 hp motors) for some of these parts. The metallizing powder would wear the shit out of the slideways and after 10 years the lathe would be unusable for high tolerance work even though the motor had probably never exceeded an output of 1 hp. It seemed like a shame that a lathe that could easily peel off .300" a side in 4340 never took a cut deeper than .010". A shaft the size of the one you were working on would probably cost $25,000 USD from the OEM. At those prices the customer would pay enough for the repair that we could afford to replace the lathes as needed. Yours turned out really well for a first time effort. Ken
Thanks Ken . It was a huge educational experience ! Shame about those big lathes though , still they are just a tool to give an end result . 👍
Hi Max, nearly jumped out of my skin when I saw 435 degrees then realised it was in bananas not Celsius.
Used to get a lot of electric motor shafts metal sprayed on the bearing registers, had to use bearing heater to install bearing.
Pulling bearing mostly always resulted in the metal spray coming away, but it did the job over many years of service, off to the metal sprayer, kept the economy going.
Surprised the Seco tungsten tool wearing between cuts, super abrasive material being machined.
Surprised me as well , but it was only a general grade carbide i think ! I have some very hard grade carbide inserts , i might have to re grind them & sweat them onto a tool shank . 👍
Max, I've seen flame welding before, and I feel you did a superb job. Very nice.
Thanks 👍
Thanks for showing your entire process of indicating in...makes me feel better about how long it takes me. Cheers from Florida!
Lol , it takes as long as it takes ! Cheers 👍
That demonstration looked like as if you had done this many times before. Confidence always plays a huge part. Thanks for the demonstration. Keep it up. Cheers.
Agreed;for me being a newbie would say that Max is quite the instructure. Enjoyed!!
No worries . There is a lot to learn with spraying . 👍
That was interesting Max. Pleased it worked out well on your first attempt. I was gutted at first when that big piece brake off, phew lol. Cheers Tony
Thanks Tony . All went well in the end ! 👍
Great video Max. Not only very instructional, but with that long adjustment with the jaws, it reminded me of the story of the guy that walked into a bar with an alligator and the punch line was " I would, but don't think I could hold my mouth open that long". Nice to have a good laugh while learning something, cheers.
Thanks 👍
G'day Max, absolutely fabulous mate, I'm watching this at 5.00am after falling asleep last night night trying to watch ffs lol (it was late)
Lots for all of us to learn with this one eh, spray weldingcertainlyseems a very specialised job, thanks for sharing buddy, hope your keeping well
Cheers Ralfy . There is a lot of parameters to stick to . I have a couple of yours to catch up on , you've been pumping them out quicker than i can watch ! 👍
Thank you Max for another great video I really like how your videos are shown
No worries 👍
Hello Max and channel. What I so liked in this post was where the lathe technique of quite nice precision as shaft component meets newer, best temp measure (via the hand held tool) and where I believe it is *sintering....as a technique is used to best refresh to a work piece. And what I learned was that as copper shims, slight adjustment can be a method to reach best concentricity. That is to say, best indicated position as to in method, approach a "build up" and further machining.
Watching the effortless component as a journeyman (craftsman) reminds me to learn to trust a component set up where further fine adjustment can be practical. And where as my antique
lathe has some larger wear as the end user must compensate there for to best result.
Also, as method, to protect the bed ways from the operation as flame spray. And the tip as tool post rest to gun distance. Watching, I simply ask myself...."Am I engaged as to best methods to
part. And, where I am not afraid to fail. As I try and learn from mistakes. There to test out operation and have a goal as to always, aim for the best part, best safety and have fun. Here, to consider the excellent older machines that can be secured, but with new fixtures and electronics that add to superb result.
Thank you Max, for having me along. Your calm comments are brilliant and the view to a machine where long expieriece teaches a shop work flow. Always well done. I really, really enjoy your thoughtful guidance. My personal regards, from half a world away. M.
Thanks 👍
Very cool process! And a nice ending too...
Thanks 👍
Great summary and results. Thanks Max. Cheers 👍👍😎👍👍 (loved the ending too 😂)
No worries 👍👍👍
Great video max,keep'um coming..
Cheers 👍
Another awesome video young Max, So much to take in and learn.
From kiwi land.
Thanks 👍
Max this looks like a #2 radius as they are in 1/64 per radius graduation nothing against what you are showing, Love your knowledge of our trade!!!
Thanks . 04 rad = .4mm = 1/64 , 08 = .8mm rad . Cheers 👍
Great demonstration of allowing the job to "Orbit" in a 4 Jaw chuck to radially align 👌.
I like that you've used a relatively large radius to cut the helix, as opposed to a very small screw thread form.
Metal spraying is a process I've never seen, enjoyed this video Max.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers 👍
I never had much luck metal spraying with Eutechtics products, but it was 40 years ago. I got something that looked OK, that then all peeled off as soon as I started the cut. I found the rods to be no better, promised the earth and golden unicorns, got the pigs ear and no silk purse. But it was on board ship with the workshop limitations that imposed.
Thanks . I think you have to keep within pretty strict parameters with this stuff . 👍
Super video and job Max...I love all the old school Eutectic stuff, cheers!
Thanks , so do i !!! I have a job for the old model B torch soon . 👍
Another great video from the SVMS. Well done Max
No worries ! 👍
nice job Max--ended with a nice finish
All went well in the end . Will have to use a harder grade of carbide with this powder .👍
Great work! This is another way how to repair a non-repairable parts. I would like to use flame spray in another aplications too, as example: bore repairs, make some hard coating layer for part and shafts repair too - as just we seen this action in video.
Hey , thanks . I see you have been busy again , great job on those shafts you made ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Yeah! Need to do something. Cheers!
G'day Max, I own a thermal Metal spray business in Qld. When I do my undercuts I use a fairly worn insert and deliberately set tool about 1mm below centre to try and achieve a very rough surface finish. I have insert grades that stand up for finish machining but you have to use fairly slow surface speeds. I generally go about 25-30 m/min. Similar to what you would use for hss.
Thanks . This powder was really abrasive on the standard grade insert . Speed was 30 m/min , 250 rpm . I have some old inserts for hardened steel , i might sweat onto a tool shank & try . Cheers 👍
Good sh1t Max. Luv the channel, keep up the education for us numpties. Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🍻
Thanks 👍
Good job Max nice work
Thanks 👍
Nice demo Max and it finished really nice. I was repairing shaft for a large shear and we sent it to a shop nearby. I think we had to redo it 4 or 5 times before he did what we wanted. Avery slick process when it goes well, cheers mate!
Thanks . It's a process that i want to get quite familiar with . 👍
Hi Max. when turning off the spray weld it looked allot like cast iron swarf. I have not done any spray welding, had a seal surface on a motorcycle crankshaft hard chromed then had to grind the seal surface down to size Cheers👍
Thanks . Yes , it does look like cast swarf & no doubt worse for a machine slide way ! 👍
Certainly an interesting process, makes chips like cast iron by the look of it.
That it does . It is a very involved process though Lance . Hey , last week i sent you a couple of pictures of a park brake from a JCB truck . Have you ever had anything to do with them before parts wise ? Cheers .
Yep learning experience indeed I had no idea what spray welding actually was. Really cool demonstration! I'm surprised it sticks so good and holds up that's pretty interesting. Be careful around that big ass lathe man I watched some safety vids and them things make me nervous as hell now haha
Thanks . There used to be one video of a guy getting caught in a lathe , i think they may have taken it down . Quite graphic . One of the lathes i used to run along time ago was twice the size of that one , but you can never take any chances or not be in the right frame of mind . Cheers 👍
Yeah I think that was it, it was blurred but still got the idea what was happening with it. It was about complacency I think, was mostly about sleeves and clothes getting caught, and enough to make sure I remember the machine gets respect and awareness all the time! Well that is if I ever get a bigger lathe
As another comment here said most those big lathes you only ever use about 1hp out of the 25 it's capable of why not turn down the motor overload so it'll at least trip out and stop if God forbid anything happened. It would've saved that guy. Most motor overloads are adjustable and if it doesn't have one they aren't too expensive to replace with one that is. Start a cut on a long enough piece of scrap that's a little more that what ya usually do so it's not tripping all the time walk around to the electrical cabinet and turn it down till it trips to set it. And now it can't do what that one in that one vid did. And can crank it back up for the odd job you actually want to take big cuts. The vid I seen the guy actually had the lathe stopped he was holding it back, till he couldn't and it was over. It 100% should have tripped right then I been an electrician for a long time and that was preventable due to someone cranking up the motor overload all the way.
How does the hardness of the repaired area compare to original hardness? How do you go about testing that on a surface that can't be dinged up?
Test on an area that the seal does not run on or a scrap part . The 21032-s powder has a good wear resistance . There are some hard powders but they can only be ground afterwards . 👍
nice job max !
cheers ben.
Thanks 👍
Nice job 👍
Thanks 👍
Max why not do 2 short bands instead of 1 long bands for the spray? Love your knowledge & vids!
It gives a larger bonding area . Also easier to machine back to size . 👍
Interesting I have always used about a 28 tpi for spray surface to give a larger surface area for spray adherence.
Thanks . As this is a new process to me , i went strictly by the parameters in the Eutectic book . They recommended 0.015 feed or 67tpi for a .030 depth of undercut . But i will use a threading tool next time . Cheers 👍
"Eutectic" is a term I rarely hear - I used to use a eutectic every day in my own role. It's likely the material is present in your body. Dental Amalgam!
I don't use a spray accumulation as you do, but otherwise I think the process is very similar. Creation of undercuts free of damaged or weakened material and deposition condensed into that such that "macro-mechanical" retention prevents movement or displacement of the new material which is cut, burnished and polished to perfect shape.
Is that largely what I have observed in your video here? I don't know about the undercuts as you refer to the powder "sticking"... yet my understanding of eutectic material was that it would not innately react or fuse with the base substrate. Maybe the ring of material you lay down is using what we term "micro-mechanical" retention to grip onto the substrate?
I love building 'stuff' and am an engineer as well as a young retired Dental Surgeon (injuries in Military Service saw me retire) and I love working in a machine shop as much as a theatre operating on patients.
Thanks for your interesting and educational videos.
The powder bonds quite good , but has to be applied within tight parameters to work properly . Surface prep , temperatures , spraying distance & you can not touch the prepped surface with your fingers . 👍
Hi Max another great video thank you, just wondering why you wouldn't use the small lathe for this process
Too much of a fire risk , the rear splash guard is too close ! Cheers 👍
Thx for the vid.
No worries 👍
Wow just wow.
Thanks 👍
Can I ask, if the shaft is hardened, will the spray weld layer be a similar hardness to the shaft?
It’s just that if the hardened shaft wore away where the seal ran against it, will the spray weld wear away faster if it’s not as hard as the original hardened steel?
Wondering if spray weld can be heat treated after application to harden it then final grind to finished dimension - or would the quenching be likely to cause the spray weld to separate and peel off? 🤷♂️
Just showing my lack of knowledge.
Could you not have maybe fitted a speedy sleeve over the worn area?
Just thoughts that were running through my head watching this one.
Very enjoyable to watch all the same. 👍👍👍
An oil seal seal will wear through hardened shafts no problem at all ! 👍
G'day Max. Worked out really well, with a very nice finish. Just wondering in the Initial setup in the 4 jaw chuck, why couldn't you have used the Tail Stock centre to help line the shaft.
Great video, waiting to see you metal spray the smaller shaft
Because you usually only do that in a 3 jaw ! You don't want the tailstock side loading & fighting the part 👍
Somebody needs to make after-market seals with the lip(s) shifted by a mm or so, so they bear on unworn parts of the shaft.
Lol . Many a time i have had to fit a seal a bit further out in a bore ! Great idea though . 👍
Здравствуйте Макс.Напишите как пользоватся тактй же машинкой .Давление и т.д.Нашел такую же у себя дома ,информации нет ни где
No worries . I will be using it again very soon . 👍
Wish you were my neighbor 😃 got crank halfs that could use that. Pretty neat stuff I've seen abomb do this but uses some yellow stuff keeps spray from sticking. But oviously isn't needed
Thanks . I used the yellow stuff too ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop oh my bad must've missed that part 😀
Turned out good max would it be easier to hold between center as
You could do it that way , as long as you are aware of the heat near the centre . The other gear shaft will probably be done that way as there is not much to grip on . Cheers 👍
I did shout to say you were measuring the wrong diameter, but you obviously couldn't hear me.
Bloody well shout louder next time ! I was concentrating that much on the spray process and missed the boat measuring the correct diameter . Cheers 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Shouted as loud as I could, obviously the UK is just a bit too far away. Glad it all worked out well in the end though.
Класс.
Cheers 👍
У меня новый такой ,как работает нет информации ,Макс помоги .Меня тоже зовут Макс.Я из России,живу на озере Байкал,Город Северобайкальск.мне 45 лет.
No worries . Cheers 👍
👍
Cheers 👍👍👍
What would be the smallest lathe you would use for this? I understand a really small lathe such as a 10 wouldn’t work, but why not a 14?
My small lathes are either too close to a wall or the back splash guard is too close & would no doubt set something on fire ! 👍
Was that the spray gun I found the rubber orfices for?
Hi Tom . Those parts are for my other Eutalloy torch , which i will be using soon . 👍
Gotcha.@@swanvalleymachineshop
👍👏👌
Thanks 👍
When you rotated the shaft in set up, it looked bent?
My chuck jaws are worn out ! 👍
Ahh, I was amazed that when you changed the position of 2 copper strips that it allowed easier line up and centring of shaft, I learnt so much.
Looking forward to the next video.
200 degrees Fahrenheit? what has Fahrenheit to do with today's technology, especially in Australia?
Lol , i did the conversions on the heat gun . All the spec's in the manual are in Deg F , so that's what i used ! Deg F or C , metric or imperial . I use all equally . 👍
Speedie sleeve
Not for that application . 👍