I know you wonder sometimes Mr. Pete but I for one love these "what Makes it Work" series. As a child my Christmas and birthday gifts would be played with for ten minutes before I would completely disassemble them to see how they worked much to the chagrin of my parents. However my Dad would explain everything as we would reassemble the toys. He loved to see how they worked too! Thanks for all these videos!
Same here! It was not more than 1 day before I had the plastic body off the new Lionel train I got for Christmas, so I could watch the gears and see the motor brushes spark.
When OFF the magnet’s N-S axis is vertical and flux is shunted from S to N via iron side pieces. Little flux leaves the faces, offering no attraction to external iron. While ON, the N-S axis is horizontal; flux must leave the iron side pieces to reconnect the poles, as they are separated by an aluminum spacer. External iron is then attracted to complete the magnetic circuit.
As a former CNC machine operator I’m very familiar with the mag base, plus all the possible attachments and all the different indicators, oh my gosh I stayed broke buying tools lol.
I liked this video because I have four switchable magnets for folding fixtures and jig in my wood shop. The fit through a 3/4" diameter hold and really do a great job. Now i know how they work. Thank you Mr. Pete!!!
You left out there important bit! If you read the patent, the outer block isn't a single piece. There's a non-magnetic plate down the center. That's very important, because it acts like a spark gap. When it's turned off, the poles are vertical, and the magnetic field flows through the material on the sides from one pile to the other and doesn't escape. It's effectively shorted out. When it's on, the poles are horizontal, and the magnetic circuit is interrupted by the non-magnetic plate. The field spreads out as it hops the gap, and when you bring it in contact with magnetic material, and the piece is attracted, completing the magnetic circuit.
+ Paul Ste. Marie. This is the simplest and best explanation. Your comment should be pinned right at the top. Interesting dismantling video but it falls woefully short of Mr Pete's usually high standards in several different areas.
Thank you! This video is woefully lacking in explanation. All he did was show us what the insides look like and nothing about "What Makes it Work". Simply turning a magnet doesn't make it not stick to iron - there is clearly more involved there.
Also some of these magnets was charged with magnetic field to magnetize it much stronger, if you dissasemble them, and assamble them back again it will not be as strong as it was, because it looses some of charged magnetic field, due to dissasamble of magnetic domains in magnetic iron, magnet istself stays same. Bus as long as it is in this iron case, it holds this magnetic domains in iron orientaited, with was orientaited by electrolagnet during manufacturing
Thanks for sharing! but i think it deserves a longer video sir. The trick is in the case. Mag bases or chucks are very useful and can be shop made (with simple cheap neodinium magnets) to suit particular needs. Magnetism is a whole subject. Take care. Peter
The left and the right side of the base are separated by a non magnetic centre section, usually aluminium and when the central magnet is turned it faces each of the base poles sideways and energizes them with north and south polarity, when turned upright it sits between the 2 poles and they cancel each other out.
I've got a few of them. I inherited them from my uncle, a tool n die maker. One of the arms is awesome! It's segmented. It's made of a bunch of short pipes, somewhat tapered with a rounded end on the narrow end and a cove ground into the thick end and the balled end of one rides In the cove end of the other and there's a cable that runs up through them all with a cam lever at the end that shortens the cable once you configure the arm into virtually any shape you need to get dial indicator around whatever and to whatever needs to be checked. I believe it's a starrett.
mrpete222 yes. They're not as rigid as the articulating arms but they can can be adjusted to be rigid enough to hold a dial indicator still . I use it to hold my phone, like a tripod.
The size and number of poles on a magnetic chuck changes the size and quantity of the flux fields. Generally speaking, chucks with only a few large poles are better for thicker work, because the flux fields go higher about the surface of the chuck. Fine pole chucks have flux fields that stay close to the chuck, making them better for a thin workpiece. Both will work for the other to some extent. In general it is usually considered better to get a fine pole magnetic chuck if you are holding all different sizes of work.
Awesome. Exactly what I was looking for. Thinking I could turn one upside down. Magnet up. To be used as a vice guide for cutting emt pipe on a tool cart. Stick some bolt rod in the stem, bolt it down, adjust the height... hope it works well. Awesome vid, as always.
You might have mentioned that the cube, or housing, is made of three parts (at least the ones I have disassembled are). There are two steel parts (or at least made magnetic material, possibly iron) and they are separated by a non magnetic layer between... possibly made of aluminum or magnesium. So when the north and south polls of the magnet are aligned with the two steel parts, the magnetism of the base is effectively turned on, when the polls are pointed at a right angle to the steel parts the magnet is effectively turned off.
tracyguilbeau that's backwards actually. When the poles are vertical, each half of the body creates an independent path from N to S, and there almost no field strength at the base. When the poles are horizontal, one side of the base is N the other side is S and field is forced to go between the two sides, creating a strong field at the base.
Every time the magnet is removed from the housing it depletes some of the magnets strength. The longer it is out of the housing, the more strength is depleted. Most permanent magnetic field electric motors can be severely weakened by removing the armature from the field housing. At the least, a steel barstock slug should be inserted in the field while the armature is out to help preserve the magnets strength.
I saw these things looking thru tools and as most of us would, I wondered how they work! So the mind process knows that permanent magnets cannot be turned off, for like 500 years. ...and only an electromagnet can be turned on/off. but, no power plug to feed it energy!? ... So, is there a battery inside to create the electromagnetic effect? ...and that would have to be a mean-ass battery! but again, ...no power plug to charge ? ok, now I am baffled. So-many-wasted-videos of people trying to milk the secret, and you made it easy without a long disgusting time-wasting milking ordeal, may be a tiny bit, but straight to it! t.y. Learned something new today! I always thought only distance, temperature, ... can nullify a magnetic field. ...and without trying to appear an expert or even intelligent... one would have to plunge into Maxwell's equations to really understand this fully. ...and if you think about it, induction/transformers functionality is definitely a close cousin. ...the secret is simple, a magnet is encased in a ferrous cage which weakens/cancels out the magnetic effect... just a mechanical orientation that takes advantage of the proximity of an iron(like) shield that affects the related subatomic fields. To be more clear, it actually does not lessen the actual magnet power, only shields it so it loses distance reach, basically STRONG-ARMing it. ...proof, when the magnet is extracted from the shield its effect is still fully present.
Interesting & good video. Comments also addressed the base configuration: I sort of figured something was special about the base. I have some of the ones you will be showing next and am very interested in what makes them lock up in all joints when knob is tightened.
If you look through what Suburban Tool has to offer, I think you will find some details on how magnetic chucks and vises work, and how they are constructed. I remember that it was made clear that you do not want your fingers in the way during the assembly process ....
These videos are, besides being informative, something of a documentary on shop teaching in an era where the skills gained were used at work by many students. My machine shop instructors (one young, one about 70) show some of them today training new machinists. Every machinist should learn both manual and CNC, and I suggest taking CAD first so you think in CAD. Manual machining, far from being a lost art remains vital in repair machining which keeps modern factories running. Many shops have manual machine tools far larger than any CNC they could or should choose to purchase. My machinist bro has two WWII era American Pacemaker lathes that make money every month on repair machining and custom long parts like rollers for a local paper mill. Meanwhile he's turning and milling on his CNC centers.
I don't have one,.....yet*. Don't get a neodymium magnet near the chips and swarf, they are almost impossible to clean. Great demo video, very informative. *I think Shars is where I'll get mine, with indicator.
Japanese base is probably better quality than the chinese magnetic bases which don't even have a patent number. N-O-T surprised though. once in a while, like years apart, I'll sand the base to remove rust. Sandpaper on a flat granite or cast iron surface to make sure it is nice and flat. I like the granite for that. You can check the surface with a straight edge and feeler gauge.
That was an interesting look into the magnetic base. Soon you will be on television. Xfinity is going to add youtube to its offerings and you can just tell your voice enabled remote to show mrpete222 and it will go get it. Probably will be no ability to leave comments though.
I'll bet the yard sales and estate sales are something else in the Rust Belt where machine tools ans such are abundant. Here in the PNW, the picking are considerably slimmer.
not that weird, if you think about it in terms of electricity, in one way, one exterior plate is positive, while the other is negative thus getting a flow between them, and in the other, both are at the same voltage, so no flow. This is inaccurate, but gets the point across I think.
Lyle, I would like to see what happens chucking up that magnet , being it's round and turning off .050" to see the outcome forgetting it's magnetic . You have wonderful videos . Thumbs up my fellow senior .
So when you turn the magnet to off does the magnetic force move to the side or become stronger on the side? Thanks for the video always nice to learn something new.
I think he missed the actual thing that makes this work in this video. It isn’t so much the magnet but what it is sitting in. That housing is not one solid piece of steel, as seen in the patent drawings it is two halves of steel with some non magnetic metal spacing them out in between. This way when the magnet is oriented in one direction the two steel sides are magnetized and when the magnet is rotated 90 degrees the fields are contained in the steel sides and they are non magnetically attractive.
I've always wondered about the type of magnet setup was in those stands and way they don't have the magnetic field in the off position when the case is all metal as well. Could it be that the case is cast wit a non magnetic metal and the base has iron/steel pieces cast in the bottom?
NOGA! I swear by them! I'm really looking forward to the Noga tear down.. I have a few of these (my personal property), and always wondered how they function but I'm reluctant to take apart a good one in fear that I might not get it back together. There is however, one that belongs to my employer that is barely functional, the lower joint won't hold very well... possibly after seeing your upcoming video I will try working on it. I Love the base and arm system, but I do dislike the fine adjustment located at the indicator end and the attachment tightening mechanism (where the indicator attaches).. I routinely fill the moving part of the fine adjustment with locktite and shim the indicator holder part to rigid it up.
Anthony Nagy that's my thought as well. In addition, plastic has its place in engineering and I think it's just fine for this application. I'll also point out that these bases are used for more than indication. They are also used to hold air and coolant lines, and delicate instruments, and provide an amount of electronic shielding. Even the high end old machines have plastic or Bakelite knobs.
weird. all the other designs are showing two sets of magnets. I wonder how it's possible for you to have one that only uses one magnet. maybe it uses some type of electrical conductance to cancel out the flux? okay. I just watched a video were he explains that the case of this tool has a strip of aluminum across the bottom and top. in one position the aluminum blocks the magnetic flux and in the other it doesn't. he said the case is actually three separate pieces of metal. not sure if the aluminum goes up the back opposite the switch or not. very interesting design. the larger chucks on grinders etc do use two sets of magnets that interact making them even more powerful than these little guys. also, the one company that currently makes larger chucks says it uses graphite in the grease. that would make it black (without being actually dirty).
NEVER DISASSEMLE THIS!!! After disassembling, you loose 80% of power of this base. Just compare how extremely strong it was before, and now it's just regular weak magnet now. After assemble ,it must be charged with very high magnetic pulse, to be so strong. Just read how magnetic accumulator work.
Mr Pete, I am still not sure how turning a magnet, removes the magnet's attracting force. I see the moving part; but why does it lose its magnetism simply by moving it 90 degrees? I am confused. There has to be something that causes the magnet to be cancelled. Years ago I learned that there are certain metals which will not allow magnetic "lines of force" to pass through. But I am not sure this how these magnets work. Could you please give us, in detail, "how" it works; in this context? Thank you and thanks a million for all the other fascinating things you have taught us.
The magnetic metal case directs the core's magnetic field and the core is magnetized with the poles across the cylinder, not end-to-end. With N/S vertical the field follows the sides, there will only be a slight N or S field at both mounting face poles. With the core's N/S field horizontal the field is directed so there is a strong field at the mounting poles with N on one side and S on the other. There must be a nonmagnetic metal section at the top and between the mounting poles. I don't know how that is done.
Very respectfully, there is indeed a metal which will NOT let magnetic lines of forces pass through. It is called "mu-metal". Not sure what its elements are. They were used around TV pictures; in the early days of color TV; to STOP extraneous magnetic fields from ruining the color purity around the edges of the picture tube. Handles were attached to them, and we technicians could then rotate these mu-metal shields to remove the impurities around the edges of the picture. For whatever it's worth.
I have a Brown and Sharpe magnetic base, but it's the push-button variety like the Starrett brand. The button is seized in the "off" position. Any clue what might be going on with it? Hardened grease or possibly a chipped magnet? It has no obvious signs of damage, or signs of being dropped, etc.
@@mrpete222 Thanks for the response. I appreciate it. I kept soaking it with Rem oil by using a "dam" of grease to keep the oil deep around the button, and after a few hours of doing that and letting it sit on the heater vent, after a good hard rap on the counter it finally freed up. It's definitely not the strongest magnet base in the world, but I think it will serve me well for my rear axle re-gear that I bought it for. A LOT of really dark colored oil ran out after working the button for a while, so it was either corrosion or really old solidified grease.
Well there it is inventors.this type of magnetic principle might be the golden ticket to cause the desired off and on effect for a solid magnet motor.i could imagine this plausible on a reciprocating solid magnet motor converting a repulsive effect into rotary motion by means of a crankshaft..hey when your a gardener you got all day to mull over random thoughts this might just work...but I'm still pondering how to fix politics this day and time...honestly I think it would be easier to adapt this magnetic principal to a solid magnetic motor...😆
Pocket knife, we cannot have a grandfather in his 70's walking around with a 3" blade! Wow I am sure they really stopped a big threat by taking it from you.
As a threat assessment: he could give a weapon (such as it is) to a confederate who could then use it effectively. Just sayin'. 'Murrikkkan security theater is ludicrous, but I'm sure that's their logic. In short: keep all potential weapons out, no matter who is "the mule".
NO. Parts can move on you. It is not that strong as vice (vise) or toe-clamps. It also depends on part shape and size. That's why machinists will put something extra on the magnetic chuck (1-2-3 block, parallel), to act as a "stop" ("fence"), just in case.
I know you wonder sometimes Mr. Pete but I for one love these "what Makes it Work" series. As a child my Christmas and birthday gifts would be played with for ten minutes before I would completely disassemble them to see how they worked much to the chagrin of my parents. However my Dad would explain everything as we would reassemble the toys. He loved to see how they worked too! Thanks for all these videos!
Same here! It was not more than 1 day before I had the plastic body off the new Lionel train I got for Christmas, so I could watch the gears and see the motor brushes spark.
Thanks, Mr. Pete...have several of those but always wanted to disassemble one to see how it worked...and here you have gone and did this for me! :-)
When OFF the magnet’s N-S axis is vertical and flux is shunted from S to N via iron side pieces. Little flux leaves the faces, offering no attraction to external iron. While ON, the N-S axis is horizontal; flux must leave the iron side pieces to reconnect the poles, as they are separated by an aluminum spacer. External iron is then attracted to complete the magnetic circuit.
you are no explaining crap... go study.
As a former CNC machine operator I’m very familiar with the mag base, plus all the possible attachments and all the different indicators, oh my gosh I stayed broke buying tools lol.
I liked this video because I have four switchable magnets for folding fixtures and jig in my wood shop. The fit through a 3/4" diameter hold and really do a great job. Now i know how they work. Thank you Mr. Pete!!!
👍
You left out there important bit!
If you read the patent, the outer block isn't a single piece. There's a non-magnetic plate down the center. That's very important, because it acts like a spark gap.
When it's turned off, the poles are vertical, and the magnetic field flows through the material on the sides from one pile to the other and doesn't escape. It's effectively shorted out. When it's on, the poles are horizontal, and the magnetic circuit is interrupted by the non-magnetic plate. The field spreads out as it hops the gap, and when you bring it in contact with magnetic material, and the piece is attracted, completing the magnetic circuit.
+ Paul Ste. Marie. This is the simplest and best explanation. Your comment should be pinned right at the top. Interesting dismantling video but it falls woefully short of Mr Pete's usually high standards in several different areas.
Thank you! This video is woefully lacking in explanation. All he did was show us what the insides look like and nothing about "What Makes it Work". Simply turning a magnet doesn't make it not stick to iron - there is clearly more involved there.
Also some of these magnets was charged with magnetic field to magnetize it much stronger, if you dissasemble them, and assamble them back again it will not be as strong as it was, because it looses some of charged magnetic field, due to dissasamble of magnetic domains in magnetic iron, magnet istself stays same. Bus as long as it is in this iron case, it holds this magnetic domains in iron orientaited, with was orientaited by electrolagnet during manufacturing
Thank you - that's what I wanted to know. Yes, Mr. Pete missed it this time. Otherwise, good video.
@@mindaugaskazlauskas5530 spoken like a true neophyte
You said it would be too easy to do but thank you for doing it anyway
Can't wait for the single lock arm keep up them coming Mr Pete
Thanks for sharing! but i think it deserves a longer video sir. The trick is in the case. Mag bases or chucks are very useful and can be shop made (with simple cheap neodinium magnets) to suit particular needs. Magnetism is a whole subject. Take care. Peter
I was just wondering how they worked the other day, thanks for sharing :D
The left and the right side of the base are separated by a non magnetic centre section, usually aluminium and when the central magnet is turned it faces each of the base poles sideways and energizes them with north and south polarity, when turned upright it sits between the 2 poles and they cancel each other out.
you are no explaining crap... go study.
I've got a few of them. I inherited them from my uncle, a tool n die maker. One of the arms is awesome! It's segmented. It's made of a bunch of short pipes, somewhat tapered with a rounded end on the narrow end and a cove ground into the thick end and the balled end of one rides In the cove end of the other and there's a cable that runs up through them all with a cam lever at the end that shortens the cable once you configure the arm into virtually any shape you need to get dial indicator around whatever and to whatever needs to be checked. I believe it's a starrett.
I have one of those, but I never thought they were very rigid
mrpete222 yes. They're not as rigid as the articulating arms but they can can be adjusted to be rigid enough to hold a dial indicator still . I use it to hold my phone, like a tripod.
Thanks. I have one of those, but have never taken it apart. And thanks for the patent number references.
The size and number of poles on a magnetic chuck changes the size and quantity of the flux fields. Generally speaking, chucks with only a few large poles are better for thicker work, because the flux fields go higher about the surface of the chuck. Fine pole chucks have flux fields that stay close to the chuck, making them better for a thin workpiece. Both will work for the other to some extent. In general it is usually considered better to get a fine pole magnetic chuck if you are holding all different sizes of work.
Brilliant saw one of these today and thought I would look up how it did it!
👍
Awesome. Exactly what I was looking for. Thinking I could turn one upside down. Magnet up. To be used as a vice guide for cutting emt pipe on a tool cart. Stick some bolt rod in the stem, bolt it down, adjust the height... hope it works well. Awesome vid, as always.
Yes, try that
@@mrpete222 Great video sir, one question. does the magnet indicator attracts another magnet when its off?
Thanks for showing us how the magnetic bases work.
Simple, but interesting.
Saved me taking mine apart, interesting, Thanks
You might have mentioned that the cube, or housing, is made of three parts (at least the ones I have disassembled are). There are two steel parts (or at least made magnetic material, possibly iron) and they are separated by a non magnetic layer between... possibly made of aluminum or magnesium. So when the north and south polls of the magnet are aligned with the two steel parts, the magnetism of the base is effectively turned on, when the polls are pointed at a right angle to the steel parts the magnet is effectively turned off.
tracyguilbeau that's backwards actually. When the poles are vertical, each half of the body creates an independent path from N to S, and there almost no field strength at the base. When the poles are horizontal, one side of the base is N the other side is S and field is forced to go between the two sides, creating a strong field at the base.
Thanks bro
Every time the magnet is removed from the housing it depletes some of the magnets strength. The longer it is out of the housing, the more strength is depleted. Most permanent magnetic field electric motors can be severely weakened by removing the armature from the field housing. At the least, a steel barstock slug should be inserted in the field while the armature is out to help preserve the magnets strength.
Thank you very much for the tip. You are the second one to say the same thing. My dad always told me to use a keeper on horse shoe magnets.
I saw these things looking thru tools and as most of us would, I wondered how they work!
So the mind process knows that permanent magnets cannot be turned off, for like 500 years.
...and only an electromagnet can be turned on/off. but, no power plug to feed it energy!? ...
So, is there a battery inside to create the electromagnetic effect? ...and that would have to be a mean-ass battery! but again, ...no power plug to charge ? ok, now I am baffled.
So-many-wasted-videos of people trying to milk the secret, and you made it easy without a long disgusting time-wasting milking ordeal, may be a tiny bit, but straight to it! t.y.
Learned something new today! I always thought only distance, temperature, ... can nullify a magnetic field.
...and without trying to appear an expert or even intelligent... one would have to plunge into Maxwell's equations to really understand this fully. ...and if you think about it, induction/transformers functionality is definitely a close cousin.
...the secret is simple, a magnet is encased in a ferrous cage which weakens/cancels out the magnetic effect... just a mechanical orientation that takes advantage of the proximity of an iron(like) shield that affects the related subatomic fields.
To be more clear, it actually does not lessen the actual magnet power, only shields it so it loses distance reach, basically STRONG-ARMing it. ...proof, when the magnet is extracted from the shield its effect is still fully present.
👍👍
four year old video but I'd like to see more about the housing... how the sides are attached and how thick that layer of paint is to hide the seams.
Interesting & good video. Comments also addressed the base configuration: I sort of figured something was special about the base.
I have some of the ones you will be showing next and am very interested in what makes them lock up in all joints when knob is tightened.
That was very interesting Mr Pete I have often wondered how they work. Thank you kind regards John Kinnane Tasmania Australia
Great video mr Pete. Always wondered how it worked but never thought to find out for myself.
Well done 👍👍👍
Theres way more to it than what you just said,,,look into magnetic switches to see whats going on...
Great video, one question, does a magnet switch attracts another magnet when its off?
Good Lord, with the number of parrots in here I could start a pet shop...
If you look through what Suburban Tool has to offer, I think you will find some details on how magnetic chucks and vises work, and how they are constructed.
I remember that it was made clear that you do not want your fingers in the way during the assembly process ....
These videos are, besides being informative, something of a documentary on shop teaching in an era where the skills gained were used at work by many students. My machine shop instructors (one young, one about 70) show some of them today training new machinists.
Every machinist should learn both manual and CNC, and I suggest taking CAD first so you think in CAD. Manual machining, far from being a lost art remains vital in repair machining which keeps modern factories running. Many shops have manual machine tools far larger than any CNC they could or should choose to purchase. My machinist bro has two WWII era American Pacemaker lathes that make money every month on repair machining and custom long parts like rollers for a local paper mill. Meanwhile he's turning and milling on his CNC centers.
Thanks
Keep it up, thank you for sharing :)
I don't have one,.....yet*. Don't get a neodymium magnet near the chips and swarf, they are almost impossible to clean. Great demo video, very informative. *I think Shars is where I'll get mine, with indicator.
One possible solution, is the gel used for depilation.
Its sticky enough to grip hairs and rip them out by the roots, so it should pick up swarf.
great one
Thanks
Japanese base is probably better quality than the chinese magnetic bases which don't even have a patent number. N-O-T surprised though. once in a while, like years apart, I'll sand the base to remove rust. Sandpaper on a flat granite or cast iron surface to make sure it is nice and flat. I like the granite for that. You can check the surface with a straight edge and feeler gauge.
That was an interesting look into the magnetic base. Soon you will be on television. Xfinity is going to add youtube to its offerings and you can just tell your voice enabled remote to show mrpete222 and it will go get it. Probably will be no ability to leave comments though.
I'll bet the yard sales and estate sales are something else in the Rust Belt where machine tools ans such are abundant. Here in the PNW, the picking are considerably slimmer.
so frickin wierd, I was just thinkin about this this morning.
not that weird, if you think about it in terms of electricity, in one way, one exterior plate is positive, while the other is negative thus getting a flow between them, and in the other, both are at the same voltage, so no flow. This is inaccurate, but gets the point across I think.
Lyle, I would like to see what happens chucking up that magnet , being it's round and turning off .050" to see the outcome forgetting it's magnetic . You have wonderful videos . Thumbs up my fellow senior .
Nice explanation mrpete, I loved it. Thumbs up
So when you turn the magnet to off does the magnetic force move to the side or become stronger on the side? Thanks for the video always nice to learn something new.
I think he missed the actual thing that makes this work in this video. It isn’t so much the magnet but what it is sitting in. That housing is not one solid piece of steel, as seen in the patent drawings it is two halves of steel with some non magnetic metal spacing them out in between. This way when the magnet is oriented in one direction the two steel sides are magnetized and when the magnet is rotated 90 degrees the fields are contained in the steel sides and they are non magnetically attractive.
very good video, I need to make my mag base stronger, the magnet size is 1.375 Diameter by 2.5 long, do you know if some one sells this part??? thanks
I've always wondered about the type of magnet setup was in those stands and way they don't have the magnetic field in the off position when the case is all metal as well. Could it be that the case is cast wit a non magnetic metal and the base has iron/steel pieces cast in the bottom?
it will has some marks in my university
thank you so much
👍
NOGA! I swear by them! I'm really looking forward to the Noga tear down.. I have a few of these (my personal property), and always wondered how they function but I'm reluctant to take apart a good one in fear that I might not get it back together. There is however, one that belongs to my employer that is barely functional, the lower joint won't hold very well... possibly after seeing your upcoming video I will try working on it.
I Love the base and arm system, but I do dislike the fine adjustment located at the indicator end and the attachment tightening mechanism (where the indicator attaches).. I routinely fill the moving part of the fine adjustment with locktite and shim the indicator holder part to rigid it up.
Simple use of wedges. I found that taking the clones to pieces and cleaning up the edges and rods makes them work much better. regards
THANK YOU...for sharing.
I'm already very excited about the video with the measurement arm which comming soon.... :D And this Video was also a very good one Mrpete : )
The knob may be plastic so that metal is not attracted to it?
Anthony Nagy that's my thought as well. In addition, plastic has its place in engineering and I think it's just fine for this application.
I'll also point out that these bases are used for more than indication. They are also used to hold air and coolant lines, and delicate instruments, and provide an amount of electronic shielding.
Even the high end old machines have plastic or Bakelite knobs.
Where can I buy this magnet?
You forgot the magnets in the BLOCK of steel too!!!
weird. all the other designs are showing two sets of magnets. I wonder how it's possible for you to have one that only uses one magnet. maybe it uses some type of electrical conductance to cancel out the flux?
okay. I just watched a video were he explains that the case of this tool has a strip of aluminum across the bottom and top. in one position the aluminum blocks the magnetic flux and in the other it doesn't. he said the case is actually three separate pieces of metal. not sure if the aluminum goes up the back opposite the switch or not. very interesting design. the larger chucks on grinders etc do use two sets of magnets that interact making them even more powerful than these little guys.
also, the one company that currently makes larger chucks says it uses graphite in the grease. that would make it black (without being actually dirty).
Thanks for sharing sir...
Very interesting
NEVER DISASSEMLE THIS!!! After disassembling, you loose 80% of power of this base. Just compare how extremely strong it was before, and now it's just regular weak magnet now. After assemble ,it must be charged with very high magnetic pulse, to be so strong. Just read how magnetic accumulator work.
Thanks
Mr Pete,
I am still not sure how turning a magnet, removes the magnet's attracting force.
I see the moving part; but why does it lose its magnetism simply by moving it 90 degrees?
I am confused. There has to be something that causes the magnet to be cancelled. Years ago I learned that there are certain metals which will not allow magnetic "lines of force" to pass through.
But I am not sure this how these magnets work.
Could you please give us, in detail, "how" it works; in this context?
Thank you and thanks a million for all the other fascinating things you have taught us.
Donner, you get to go home early; excellent explanation!
The magnetic metal case directs the core's magnetic field and the core is magnetized with the poles across the cylinder, not end-to-end. With N/S vertical the field follows the sides, there will only be a slight N or S field at both mounting face poles. With the core's N/S field horizontal the field is directed so there is a strong field at the mounting poles with N on one side and S on the other. There must be a nonmagnetic metal section at the top and between the mounting poles. I don't know how that is done.
I agree. We got a parts list but no explanation as to how it works. Lots of comments but who is right?
there is no known material which will block magnetic lines of force, not even lead
Very respectfully, there is indeed a metal which will NOT let magnetic lines of forces pass through. It is called "mu-metal". Not sure what its elements are.
They were used around TV pictures; in the early days of color TV; to STOP extraneous magnetic fields from ruining the color purity around the edges of the picture tube.
Handles were attached to them, and we technicians could then rotate these mu-metal shields to remove the impurities around the edges of the picture.
For whatever it's worth.
Can you replace the magnets to make it stronger?
I would say no
I have a Brown and Sharpe magnetic base, but it's the push-button variety like the Starrett brand. The button is seized in the "off" position. Any clue what might be going on with it? Hardened grease or possibly a chipped magnet? It has no obvious signs of damage, or signs of being dropped, etc.
No idea. Could it be a corrosion. Maybe soak the whole thing in WD-40 for a few days. Then tap it with a lead hammer.
@@mrpete222 Thanks for the response. I appreciate it. I kept soaking it with Rem oil by using a "dam" of grease to keep the oil deep around the button, and after a few hours of doing that and letting it sit on the heater vent, after a good hard rap on the counter it finally freed up. It's definitely not the strongest magnet base in the world, but I think it will serve me well for my rear axle re-gear that I bought it for. A LOT of really dark colored oil ran out after working the button for a while, so it was either corrosion or really old solidified grease.
THANKX .
Thank-You
Thank you for watching
Well there it is inventors.this type of magnetic principle might be the golden ticket to cause the desired off and on effect for a solid magnet motor.i could imagine this plausible on a reciprocating solid magnet motor converting a repulsive effect into rotary motion by means of a crankshaft..hey when your a gardener you got all day to mull over random thoughts this might just work...but I'm still pondering how to fix politics this day and time...honestly I think it would be easier to adapt this magnetic principal to a solid magnetic motor...😆
I am going to have to check if when the magnet is turned to the side to see if it will adhere on the side
Everybody and his uncle......😂
I've always wondered
I've been curious about how my Noga works
But how It gets energized when it turned.
Where’s the Bernards pliers???
Pocket knife, we cannot have a grandfather in his 70's walking around with a 3" blade! Wow I am sure they really stopped a big threat by taking it from you.
+B Kailua freedom is lost, one little step at a time
As a threat assessment: he could give a weapon (such as it is) to a confederate who could then use it effectively. Just sayin'.
'Murrikkkan security theater is ludicrous, but I'm sure that's their logic. In short: keep all potential weapons out, no matter who is "the mule".
Is the magnetic chuck type, that strong that you don't have to worry that your parts won't move when grinding or cutting????
NO. Parts can move on you. It is not that strong as vice (vise) or toe-clamps.
It also depends on part shape and size. That's why machinists will put something extra on the magnetic chuck (1-2-3 block, parallel), to act as a "stop" ("fence"), just in case.
"All the best stuff is made in Japan", Marty McFly
You took it apart, but you didn't explain anything about how it works. Luckily several commenters picked up where you left off.
He did explain it and maybe you weren't listening.
FrustratedBaboon then u tell me how it works like how it activate magnetic field when it turned to 90° and how it deactivated again when it turned
Hey can anyone link me the original patents for this and or a link to some pictures i find this stuff quite interesting
look here www.lens.org/lens/patent/193-064-357-627-175
Im pretty sure that japan made one was is More than 10 dollars. Japan aint china.. All the Best things are made In japan and germany quality wise.
Starett mag bases are not very strong. At least to me
i paid a lot for a starrett mag base and it is the worst one that i own.
@@commando340 I'm surprised MrPete didn't delete these replies. Bad things about Starret? No no no
If as you say, your going to throw it away, then why re lube it?
Adakah yang bisa menjelaskan cara kerjanya dengan bahasa indonesia ?
Yeah, this is a "what's inside" video, not a "how it works" video... If you don't know it, don't make a video about it.
I thought the same thing.
i spy a Wiha