I feel you are being too picky with the rust between sheet metal. Every seam on the car will have some surface rust between the sheets. Just spray some fluid film in all the cavities and seams you find and focus your cutting on the real rust you see like that crappy repair job. Otherwise you will never get this car back together. Good luck :)
Haha hey man. For what its worth, I fully realize I'm being insane here. Thats why I havent made too much progress so far. I spend a lot of time just thinking about the consequences of what Im doing right now, and whether if going to this length is worth the trouble. I keep coming back to the same answer though... Even if it takes me one more full year, I want to do this "right". I wont be able to enjoy the car unless I do it to my satisfaction.
@@RestorationForBeginners Hey Min I think Reinier Korth makes a lot of sense. Be careful how far you take this. The ugly rust repair at the headlight bucket needed to be addressed, however it was a bit scary watching you plow through the front end the way you have. Step back and take a deep breath!! You don't need me to tell you the pieces your removing aren't available after market, so you'll need to reuse them or attempt to fabricate new ones - and I don't think that will be much fun. I'm at the point I've addressed all the major rust and have the car completely epoxy sealed. I'm now going back with the Eastwood frame rail coating to spray that in every cavity I can. Even if you reuse all the pieces after cleaning them up, you have some really large holes to fill from grinding out the spot welds. Just don't want to see you get into a situation you can'y weld yourself out of!
@@mikegadoury6172 I have access to someone here in the UK who hand makes these parts that he is removing. I will be doing exactly the same with my Z when the time comes. I need to replace the front section of my Z as I believe it has been in an accident and very poorly repaired. If you need any information for the parts supplier then let me know. Keep up the good work. It will all be worth it 👍
I know, you look at those pressed steel parts and wonder "how bad is it in there?"...and you just gotta know. There are small endoscopic cameras that plug into your phone. Just drill one hole and peek inside. If it's not too bad, there is a product "Eastwood rust inhibitor". It's a spray can that you can stick a spray tube onto the nozzle (like the WD40 cans have) and spray it into those cavities through the hole you made.. I admire your thoroughness.
You have officially fallen down the rabbit hole that is rust repair. "Well I've already done this much why not just do the rest" is the name of our song.
That inner front area is notorious for rust. Rust goes up all the way the water drain channel to the inspection lid area. Check the area next to where the carbon canister sits. I had rust secretly hidden bubbling up. I had to make a template and create from sheet metal to replace those front fender pieces.
oh man... I just had to cut the front eat hood attachment area(not sure what to call it) area of mine, do yourself a favor and make a template that can fit inside of the lip and mark the holes for the bolts, so when you are ready to weld new metal in you will have it lined up perfectly. I am always amazed by the type sketchy previous repairs I keep finding on mine, best of luck.
Hey, I’m enjoying watching your videos. You definitely have a lot of attention to detail and seem to do really good work. Do you have an air compressor available? If so, I’d highly recommend getting an air die grinder to remove rust and paint. There are a variety of attachments available for them, and they are my favorite way to remove rust off my very rusty 280zx I’m working on. They are compact and lightweight, but spin very fast at 20,000 rpm or so and make short work of rust. They weigh less or about the same as an electric Dremel, but have so much more power.
I do, I just don't like to use it that often because I live in a townhouse and it can get a bit loud. You'll see me using it more often in future episodes though.
Really enjoying your content. I have a 72 240z myself and am trying to decide if I should start on the body work or concentrate on getting the ls1 and trans to fit first. Your videos are super helpful as I get to see what Im in store for because I too want to do the body work, or as much as I can myself. Just wondering, how long can you leave the sheet metal exposed like that without any kind of sealer or protectant? Thanks
You sir are a hard worker, however I think you would have been much better off in time and money by having a dustless water blaster company come and do your car in your driveway, not that much money for what they do and the money you spent on stripper and sanding supply's etc. but hey it's your life, just saying.
You are a much smarter man than I am. For what it's worth, I agree with you. After I'm done with the major rust repairs, it's getting shipped off to an acid dip shop.
If you see how the wheel well under coat came off easily. Than you can mentally picture why I use 2 component bedliner , instead of rubberised undercoat ( old tech ) Rubberised under coat never dries and in warm weather it becomes fly paper collecting dirt. Than hardens/ firms up locking the dirt into itself. Moisture will be attracted to this dirt and this cycle continues over and over. The undercoat gets heavy and detaches it's bond from the metal. Hence why so easily removed. 2 component bedliner is chemically hardened PLASTIC which completely shuns moisture / dirt . It also stays Black compared to the rubberised brownish gray color from dirt accumilation. I use raptor since it first came out many years ago during restoration work. I'd say any 2 component bedliner will do the same.
I feel you are being too picky with the rust between sheet metal. Every seam on the car will have some surface rust between the sheets. Just spray some fluid film in all the cavities and seams you find and focus your cutting on the real rust you see like that crappy repair job. Otherwise you will never get this car back together. Good luck :)
Haha hey man. For what its worth, I fully realize I'm being insane here. Thats why I havent made too much progress so far. I spend a lot of time just thinking about the consequences of what Im doing right now, and whether if going to this length is worth the trouble. I keep coming back to the same answer though... Even if it takes me one more full year, I want to do this "right". I wont be able to enjoy the car unless I do it to my satisfaction.
@@RestorationForBeginners Hey Min
I think Reinier Korth makes a lot of sense. Be careful how far you take this. The ugly rust repair at the headlight bucket needed to be addressed, however it was a bit scary watching you plow through the front end the way you have. Step back and take a deep breath!! You don't need me to tell you the pieces your removing aren't available after market, so you'll need to reuse them or attempt to fabricate new ones - and I don't think that will be much fun. I'm at the point I've addressed all the major rust and have the car completely epoxy sealed. I'm now going back with the Eastwood frame rail coating to spray that in every cavity I can. Even if you reuse all the pieces after cleaning them up, you have some really large holes to fill from grinding out the spot welds. Just don't want to see you get into a situation you can'y weld yourself out of!
@@mikegadoury6172 I have access to someone here in the UK who hand makes these parts that he is removing. I will be doing exactly the same with my Z when the time comes. I need to replace the front section of my Z as I believe it has been in an accident and very poorly repaired.
If you need any information for the parts supplier then let me know.
Keep up the good work. It will all be worth it 👍
@@RestorationForBeginners if you need any repair panels let me know and I'll put you in contact with a guy here in the UK who makes them.
Will keep that in mind, thanks for the heads up!
I really appreciate your use of good language throughout. That speaks so well about you.
Oh babies what a trip. That rusty hole is YUGE
I know, you look at those pressed steel parts and wonder "how bad is it in there?"...and you just gotta know. There are small endoscopic cameras that plug into your phone. Just drill one hole and peek inside. If it's not too bad, there is a product "Eastwood rust inhibitor". It's a spray can that you can stick a spray tube onto the nozzle (like the WD40 cans have) and spray it into those cavities through the hole you made.. I admire your thoroughness.
I like what u do, u have lots of patience 😁
Very patient guy
You have officially fallen down the rabbit hole that is rust repair. "Well I've already done this much why not just do the rest" is the name of our song.
I can just imagine your parents saying "Well, you took it apart, now put it back together!"
That inner front area is notorious for rust. Rust goes up all the way the water drain channel to the inspection lid area. Check the area next to where the carbon canister sits. I had rust secretly hidden bubbling up. I had to make a template and create from sheet metal to replace those front fender pieces.
Yup, I have the same issue.
Music choice for this has been perfect. I'm 8:45 in and it matches how it gets progressively worse and worse.
Press F to pay respects
Love the classical music! I know I will have to do this to my Z one day. You are my hero!
Great music selection Man! 👌 fingers crossed, good job.
I hope you can get it back together again. Big job.
I hope so too.
Yep, this decides it. Never taking a body panel off my 280z
Ignorance is bliss, I agree
oh man... I just had to cut the front eat hood attachment area(not sure what to call it) area of mine, do yourself a favor and make a template that can fit inside of the lip and mark the holes for the bolts, so when you are ready to weld new metal in you will have it lined up perfectly. I am always amazed by the type sketchy previous repairs I keep finding on mine, best of luck.
It would be a great idea to get the car dipped.... lot less work and will get in most to all of the hard to reach spots
Hey, I’m enjoying watching your videos. You definitely have a lot of attention to detail and seem to do really good work.
Do you have an air compressor available? If so, I’d highly recommend getting an air die grinder to remove rust and paint. There are a variety of attachments available for them, and they are my favorite way to remove rust off my very rusty 280zx I’m working on.
They are compact and lightweight, but spin very fast at 20,000 rpm or so and make short work of rust. They weigh less or about the same as an electric Dremel, but have so much more power.
I do, I just don't like to use it that often because I live in a townhouse and it can get a bit loud. You'll see me using it more often in future episodes though.
Really enjoying your content. I have a 72 240z myself and am trying to decide if I should start on the body work or concentrate on getting the ls1 and trans to fit first. Your videos are super helpful as I get to see what Im in store for because I too want to do the body work, or as much as I can myself. Just wondering, how long can you leave the sheet metal exposed like that without any kind of sealer or protectant? Thanks
10:15 I actually spit coffee out may nose as I LOL when I read the comment
Hey ming my suggestion is cut off all the unwanted spot weld and strip the car completly and then for 1500$ get it sandblasted professionnely.
Will most likely do that
You sir are a hard worker, however I think you would have been much better off in time and money by having a dustless water blaster company come and do your car in your driveway, not that much money for what they do and the money you spent on stripper and sanding supply's etc. but hey it's your life, just saying.
You are a much smarter man than I am. For what it's worth, I agree with you. After I'm done with the major rust repairs, it's getting shipped off to an acid dip shop.
what air tool were you using to flake off the undercoating?
Needle Scaler
Restoration For Beginners thanks!
If you see how the wheel well under coat came off easily.
Than you can mentally picture why I use 2 component bedliner , instead of rubberised undercoat ( old tech )
Rubberised under coat never dries and in warm weather it becomes fly paper collecting dirt. Than hardens/ firms up locking the dirt into itself.
Moisture will be attracted to this dirt and this cycle continues over and over.
The undercoat gets heavy and detaches it's bond from the metal.
Hence why so easily removed.
2 component bedliner is chemically hardened PLASTIC which completely shuns moisture / dirt .
It also stays Black compared to the rubberised brownish gray color from dirt accumilation.
I use raptor since it first came out many years ago during restoration work.
I'd say any 2 component bedliner will do the same.