Awesome video, I'm starting that same project soon, just deciding on shade of white, i take it that its best to completely finish the back sides first that way you can rest them on their backs when you finish painting the fronts correct?. i was wondering how to rest them without messing up the finished paint, maybe hanging them somehow lol.
+Eddie CJ I went through that same thought process. I sat there ruminating over it for hours before I started and also thought hanging would be the easiest. However, after completing the project, I would say that the technique I used was the most efficient and didn't show any flaws in the finished product. If I was to do it again, I would do it the exact same way. Just make sure you END by painting the fronts and wait to flip the cabinet doors until the side you painted is dry.
As a finisher of 30 years experience in Cabinetry and furniture. 1st. Never ever ever use a DA sander on edge ever. 2nd. Paint is for walls. Lacquer is for Cabinetry. 3rd. Sanding between coats always unless specified. 4th. Turn your pressure down And switch to a 311 or a 411. p.s. Krud Kutter is the best cleaner and degreaser I have encountered over my 30 years. Leave zero residue biodegradable and it doesn't stink but it cleans like a mad dog.
Just a "little tip"! I've been a painter for about 10 year and now own my own company. For about 4 years all I did was finish cabinets. The only tip I could give you is to use a 311 tip. The smaller orifice atomizes the paint much better and because of that you get a silky smooth finish. I use Latex Pro Classic from Sherwin Williams with a 210. I hope you can use this little bit of advice! Great video!
Question for you Rockin': I am getting ready to spray my cabinets with pro classic from sherwin williams, I think its an enamel though. Do I need to add any sort of reducer to spray it if I'm using a HVLP gun?
SoHoMakes hey Soho ive been painting for 30+ years all exterior and interior painting and have just recently moved into spraying cabinets and trim and such and just had a couple questions id like to ask you if thats okay? Just respond to this and i will shoot you my # or email thanks
SoHoMakes hello quick question, what primer do you recommend with your latex pro classic with 210 tip? Also can the primer be sprayed with the 210 tip as well? Does anything need to be thinned out? Thanks.
Great tips and video and thanks for your time of making it , I do kitchen spraying too and here is my experience, spray primer Benjamin Moore advance sand with 220 and 2 coats of advance with 308 tip at 2000 psi , it looks flawless and I use satin finish , thanks again for your time
Did it about the same way but used an acrylic enamel for a harder finish. I would recommend that anyone wanting to do this is find something to test your spray pattern to determine the right pressure setting on your sprayer. Mine was only three or four clicks from the lowest setting. Also, a smaller tip. I went with a 313 and I have read that a 311 works very well in that it atomizes the paint better. I also mixed in some Floetrol and went with a satin finish. The end result was hard to distinguish from pre-finished white cabinets.
Good job! Pretty much exactly how I do them. The only thing I do different is number all the doors and drawers before I remove them. It helps speed up rehanging them. Specially on big sets.
Wow! That came out awesome!! What a difference it made in your kitchen. We have a similar project coming up, in a kitchen with cabinets that are from the 70’s with a darker stain. Looking forward to a much lighter kitchen like yours now!!! Thank you!
This is a good DIY video. As a pro, I will tell you not to waist your time with chemical cleaning before you sand, unless there is grease or something that will clog sand disks. You also don't have to sand nearly as much. Just scuff the old paint, make it smooth. If they're stained cabinets, scuff the old clear coat and then wipe them down with mineral spirits. The primer you use is very important. The best primer for the job is called PRO CRYL from Sherwin Williams. This is an industrial universal primer that is normally used more for commercial metal application, however, it does awesome on wood, tile, etc... The paint that I use the most for cabinets is SW Pro Classic Water base Alkyd (water base, but dries hard like an oil enamel, also smells like banana nut bread lol). Remember not to flip your cabinets to soon either, do the backs first and fronts last. DO NOT USE A 517 TIP! LOL I personally use a 315 fine finish tip on a more commercial sprayer. Also don't crank your pressure as high. Another thing, if you roll the cabinet structure inside the house, is SW flock foam mini rollers. They are awesome. Happy painting ;)
My business as a kitchen carpenter often involves painting them as well. I also use SW Pro Classic. That being said, some kitchens require a chemical cleaning as sandpaper will gum up immediately. I use TSP, Trisodium Phosphate(?) and it works really well.
I understand why you're saying. I guess I can only speak from years of my own experience. If there is food and grease gunked on them, then I would clean them first, but if not, I'll continue to skip that until after my sanding process. My primer is also bulletproof. If I ever had to stain them, I may consider your process. Thanks for the info either way.
This is probably one of the most helpful videos I've come across on how to paint kitchen cabinets. The only thing I would suggest is possibly skip the sanding part and use de-glosser prior to the bonding primer. This would save a lot of headache and the results should be the same.
Great job they look really good. But I would say for anyone else that may come across here looking to do their cabinets step 2 should always be labels your cabinets doors as you take them down so you know exactly where they go back. I just put a little sticky note on one side then rotate it to the opposite side when u need to paint the other side. Hope this helps someone.
5:15 tip is to be used for walls.. I would go with a smaller fan opening and smaller pressure.. like 3:10 to 3:12 fine finish tip (the green one from Graco)
For that X5 to accept the Green FFLP tips, he needs to also swap out his orange guard for the blue one. I highly recommend the 210 or 310 for Cabinets.
You’re right, 515 is way too much tip to spray cabinets. Also, you could tell the pressure was too high. 310 to 312 would be the way to go. You also want to keep the gun moving continuously to avoid spit.
Hi Dan, I would have loved to see more about the 'orange peel' that you were talking about. I'm painting a barn door and have run into the same issue. I'm in the process of sanding it all off now, which is taking forever. As always, thanks for your work putting together this video (even if it has been 6 years.... :-).
Sherwin Bought out Frazee just for their Arothane product which is now under Sherwin's Pro Industrial line. Just about the best Trim/ Cab paint I've ever used. Oil/ Water Hybrid not to heavy viscosity lays down amazing and dries rock hard. Paint should be around 70 degrees for best application, leveling, and viscosity. 1)De- grease and gloss. 2) sand if existing finish in bad shape. 3) Zinsser Bin tie coat. 4) Sand. 5) 2 coats sherwin Wall and wood primer sand in between coats. 2 Finish coats Arothane sand in between coats.
I am getting ready to paint and i will use clothes hangers and hooks to hang the doors to paint on both sides at the same time and let them dry in the garage or closets
awesome video. i am about to partake in this same DIY project. painting my cabinets white from oak. so i plan to 1- wipe down with with tsp/water mix. 2-wipe with liquid sander 3-wipe with water again&dry. 4-using a 360vsp truecoat sprayer prime my boxes and doors with 2 or 3 coats. 5-paint white 6- paint top coat. my ?'s are: •i have kilz primer is that okay? •what to use as a top coat? •which paint is best to use so i can wipe/wash them down as needed to stay fresh white? i was thinking behr paint.
One of the most important tips before you start, that wasn't mentioned in the video, is to make sure you label your doors! Will save you a ton of time! Even when you take off the hinges, keep them at the same door.
HVLP paint sprayers are good for getting that clean coats. Check to make sure your paint is at a proper viscosity prior to painting and you'll avoid those orange peel affects.
Hey man somebody probly already said this but consider using Graco or titan hvlp set up to do your cabinets. Offers finer finish (no orange peel or airless texture) and less overspray and way less product overall. Great job thanks for the video brother
southsideshenanigans those Graco fine finish low pressure tips are pretty sweet for an airless set up, no orange peel. You’re paying $50 for a tip though..
I'm a journey men painter and you dont have to high of pressure you have too big of a tip you need to be spraying with a 311th tip save alote on material. And have a really good finish. Good job bro looks great
might I suggest a fine finish tip in a smaller orifice. We use a Tritech 210. Half the amount of paint you are using and a factory finish. Less chance for runs and sags as well.
There are many factors in photoshop lessons. One resource I found that succeeds in merging these is the Trevs Photo Blueprint (google it if you're interested) definately the best blueprint i've heard of. Check out the amazing info.
Thanks for the advice. Very helpful. I've been a furniture finisher for years and I'm branching out into cabinet finishing now. Any tips on pricing? Would much appreciate your input and help on the less technical aspects. Thanks from a new subscriber!
Just FYI for anyone thinking about doing this, they make primers that bond to glossy surfaces do you don't have to sand, that's all I use for my jobs and it saves a ton on labor.
Sanding is a critical step. Your paint will tend to peel if you don't sand. A primer helps, but it's best to rough up the surface so the paint has something to grab onto.
hey bro thanks for the video , so i have question how much u can get from this kitchen . cuz i start painting right now and i need price for estimate bro .
what brand primer? Ive read very good things about Zinser BIN. I saw a pro use it without sanding. Im considering using this for my project. I have old birch lacquer top cabinets i have to paint.
Not sure that mineral spirits is the best, it will leave an oily residue. A TSP substitute is a much better cleaner/degreaser/deglosser. Also, realize the paint joint where a panel meets the frame will move and crack the paint at some point. Panels are meant to float.
great job and thanks for sharing! I'm about starting the exactly same project like yours colors also same from the light brown (or whatever the color called to white) Just have concern the doors are sprayed but the other parts are rolling, will it looks in different finish?
Air assist airless, or a HVLP cup gun would save you so much material and $$. I would only use airless for big walls or an automated machine running 200+ LF a minute.
Nice job! Thanks for sharing. I was wondering, is there a noticeable difference between the look/feel of the cabinet frames that were rolled and the door frames that were painted? Is the look feel consistent? Or can you tell that the frames were rolled and the doors were sprayed? Thanks
One more question :) I'm surprised you decide to use Auro paint great paint but it is just letex and it is going to be soft and stick in touch. I was looking in to use urethane or acrylic paint like: BEHR® Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel, ADVANCE® Waterborne Interior Alkyd Paint, Insl x cabinet coat So my question is: why did you decide to use Auro ?
+dymsza I definitely considered using an oil-based paint, but I didn't want to deal with the fumes in my house or deal with cleaning my sprayer and equipment with a bunch more chemicals. After talking to the rep at Benjamin Moore, he convinced me that the Aura paint would hold up just fine and give me a smooth finish. He also mentioned that patching the paint would be much, much easier with latex. My cabinets have been painted for over a year now and they still look great, hardness hasn't been an issue at all. I'd make that same decision again.
+dymsza PPG Breakthrough is even MORE durable. I give a 2 year warrantee on my cabinet work...and have YET to have to touch up ANYTHING. I don't understand why he wouldn't: wipe down with a grease cutter....wipe down with EZ sand.....prime with bonding primer....sand and tack cloth...and topcoat with Breakthrough.......sanding finish off not needed....and if you gouge the surface you have made more work.
Hi there. Job well done! I'm getting ready to tackle this project on my old oak cabinets as well. Your cabinets appear to have come out pretty smooth. What grain filler did you use and were you able to completely fill the grain or simply minimize the appearance? Thanks!
Hello. My cabinet is a yellowish white, while the door of the cabinet is normal white. If I spray the cabinet with white spray, is it enough or do I need a primer and clear coat as well? If yes, why?
For proper correspondence of doors /drawer fronts to the cabinets, mark and number them. This way everything will fall in place when putting back together. Avoid misalignment .
you mentioned the orange peel texture you got on the backside of the doors ... in order to get rid of that texture do you need to sand it down? Or can you just paint over it?
Mineral spirits is not a good degreaser and depending on your choice of top coating could create more problems for you. Use something like KrudKutter (brand name) first followed by TSP and you’ll be rid of the cooking grease and grime and will get great adhesion.
Great video... We are getting ready to paint our oak cabinets white. I am debating whether to hand paint or spray like you did. I know spraying is such a benefit to get them done fast, but I was wondering if hand brushing them would have any benefits to better quality or vise versa. Do you think it would make any difference to hand paint the primer then spray??
+Colleen Boross Any time you apply by hand with a paintbrush you're more likely to have brush strokes show through which you don't want. I would recommend spraying both the primer and paint - faster and better results.
I've traditionally done the sanding step on my cabinet jobs, but I've been told by other experts that using high bonding primer such as stix Insul-x makes this unnecessary. I'm skeptical, but also know that product formulations have improved.
You don't really have to sand it. Chemical deglosser works just fine. I used EZ Stripper - no strong chemical vapors, works as advertised and take that gloss away as needed, before priming.
Use Bondo Glazing Spot putty for nicks and dings instead of caulking or wood putty. Much stronger, also since they sanded past the varnish there is a good chance that tannin will bleed through even the primer since he used a BM primer. He needed to use an oil based primer preferably a zissner shellac. There is no waterborne tannin blockers on the market and if you read the data sheets even X-I-M UMA urethane modified acrylic says they will not block tannin. Next he used what appears to be a 515+ tip that does not allow a fine finish spray to lay down. Those tips are for spraying interior walls or exterior walls but he did reference that in the video. Also the topcoat which is BM Aura is 100% acrylic latex which never fully hardens. You will know this because you can sand it years later and it will still gum up your paper. What I would do differently? I would have used a promar lacquer undercoater and done 3 topcoats with a pigmented precat lacquer. The other option is if you are sanded down, shellac primer the open wood then if you want low VOC topcoat with either a precat waterborne pigmented lacquer like Kem-Aqua Plus or a precatalyzed waternborne epoxy. Those are products used in hospitals and industrial kitchens. That is how you would paint a cabinet like a pro. And I'm not a pro.
Thanks for sharing those tips. I always like to learn from others. But, just an FYI for others. After over 2 years, there is no tannin bleed through, so that was not an issue. Also, I'm not really sure if there are any major benefits to having the paint harden fully for most - at least not enough to justify using lacquer based paints that are much more difficult to work with, not to mention the chemicals you have to breath in. I understand that the harder paint would be more durable, and less prone to nicks and scratches, but unless you are in an industrial kitchen I don't see this as an issue. Plus, it's super simple to patch any scratches if they do occur with an acrylic paint.
Agree as a caveat this is a pro spec for a customer who will pay for a pro spec. You get what you pay for .Here in San Diego County you can expect for a full set to pay 10k plus for this spec for a small / midsize kitchen.
Says on the tds that Fresh Start 023 blocks tannin. It's all relative on how well it does that, yes. Synthetic BIN shellac is water based and blocks tannin well. PPG has water based Seal Grip primer that blocks tannins. California paints I believe has a water based version as well.
Ashley Meers i caulked mine where the decorative edging was applied to the flat cabinet. They are super cheap particleboard w veneer. In lieu of taking the drawer faces off, I caulked between the drawer boxes and faces. This was a kitty litter maneuver to hide the gap and what was caught in it. House going up for sale. The caulk did the trick to make everything look well put together. I sanded water damaged veneer and particleboard, sealed it, and painted. Most had been previously painted by an awful contractor so I buzzed it w a sander and skipped priming except on sanded to particleboard areas. I washed with TSP and found a lot of left behind grease to which paint had for adhered well. Lesson: if you want it done at least half ass right, do it yourself. I’m a 50 year old woman and did a far better job than the “contractor.”
What the guy in the video is doing is ok but I would recommend a hvlp turbine, at least a 4 stage. Airless is too messy in my opinion, too much waste. Also instead of all that sanding in the beginning, use a shallac primer, it's an excellent etching primer & very durable.
Good video but Im curious to how they are holding up, especially the lower cabinets. Without coating with a polycrylic of some kind aren't these chipping like crazy?
Awesome video, I'm starting that same project soon, just deciding on shade of white, i take it that its best to completely finish the back sides first that way you can rest them on their backs when you finish painting the fronts correct?. i was wondering how to rest them without messing up the finished paint, maybe hanging them somehow lol.
+Eddie CJ I went through that same thought process. I sat there ruminating over it for hours before I started and also thought hanging would be the easiest. However, after completing the project, I would say that the technique I used was the most efficient and didn't show any flaws in the finished product. If I was to do it again, I would do it the exact same way. Just make sure you END by painting the fronts and wait to flip the cabinet doors until the side you painted is dry.
+Eddie CJ how did it go?Gray is trending right now
As a finisher of 30 years experience in Cabinetry and furniture.
1st. Never ever ever use a DA sander on edge ever.
2nd. Paint is for walls. Lacquer is for Cabinetry.
3rd. Sanding between coats always unless specified.
4th. Turn your pressure down And switch to a 311 or a 411.
p.s. Krud Kutter is the best cleaner and degreaser I have encountered over my 30 years.
Leave zero residue biodegradable and it doesn't stink but it cleans like a mad dog.
Just a "little tip"! I've been a painter for about 10 year and now own my own company. For about 4 years all I did was finish cabinets. The only tip I could give you is to use a 311 tip. The smaller orifice atomizes the paint much better and because of that you get a silky smooth finish. I use Latex Pro Classic from Sherwin Williams with a 210. I hope you can use this little bit of advice! Great video!
Question for you Rockin': I am getting ready to spray my cabinets with pro classic from sherwin williams, I think its an enamel though. Do I need to add any sort of reducer to spray it if I'm using a HVLP gun?
Rockin' WoodWerks what about 209 just to say..?
SoHoMakes hey Soho ive been painting for 30+ years all exterior and interior painting and have just recently moved into spraying cabinets and trim and such and just had a couple questions id like to ask you if thats okay? Just respond to this and i will shoot you my # or email thanks
SoHoMakes hello quick question, what primer do you recommend with your latex pro classic with 210 tip? Also can the primer be sprayed with the 210 tip as well? Does anything need to be thinned out? Thanks.
Daniel Daoud Yes spray with the same tip. I myself used Pro Classic Oil Satan. Oil is better then laytex, my opinion.
Great tips and video and thanks for your time of making it , I do kitchen spraying too and here is my experience, spray primer Benjamin Moore advance sand with 220 and 2 coats of advance with 308 tip at 2000 psi , it looks flawless and I use satin finish , thanks again for your time
Did it about the same way but used an acrylic enamel for a harder finish. I would recommend that anyone wanting to do this is find something to test your spray pattern to determine the right pressure setting on your sprayer. Mine was only three or four clicks from the lowest setting. Also, a smaller tip. I went with a 313 and I have read that a 311 works very well in that it atomizes the paint better. I also mixed in some Floetrol and went with a satin finish. The end result was hard to distinguish from pre-finished white cabinets.
Good job! Pretty much exactly how I do them. The only thing I do different is number all the doors and drawers before I remove them. It helps speed up rehanging them. Specially on big sets.
Where do you number them? Don’t you paint over the numbers? Thanks
Wow! That came out awesome!! What a difference it made in your kitchen. We have a similar project coming up, in a kitchen with cabinets that are from the 70’s with a darker stain. Looking forward to a much lighter kitchen like yours now!!! Thank you!
This is a good DIY video. As a pro, I will tell you not to waist your time with chemical cleaning before you sand, unless there is grease or something that will clog sand disks. You also don't have to sand nearly as much. Just scuff the old paint, make it smooth. If they're stained cabinets, scuff the old clear coat and then wipe them down with mineral spirits. The primer you use is very important. The best primer for the job is called PRO CRYL from Sherwin Williams. This is an industrial universal primer that is normally used more for commercial metal application, however, it does awesome on wood, tile, etc... The paint that I use the most for cabinets is SW Pro Classic Water base Alkyd (water base, but dries hard like an oil enamel, also smells like banana nut bread lol). Remember not to flip your cabinets to soon either, do the backs first and fronts last. DO NOT USE A 517 TIP! LOL I personally use a 315 fine finish tip on a more commercial sprayer. Also don't crank your pressure as high. Another thing, if you roll the cabinet structure inside the house, is SW flock foam mini rollers. They are awesome. Happy painting ;)
*too, *use
My business as a kitchen carpenter often involves painting them as well. I also use SW Pro Classic. That being said, some kitchens require a chemical cleaning as sandpaper will gum up immediately. I use TSP, Trisodium Phosphate(?) and it works really well.
I understand why you're saying. I guess I can only speak from years of my own experience. If there is food and grease gunked on them, then I would clean them first, but if not, I'll continue to skip that until after my sanding process. My primer is also bulletproof. If I ever had to stain them, I may consider your process. Thanks for the info either way.
egw5454 - want to paint my cabinets?
WEll thats just great! Now my wife saw this so now I gotta nother project to do.LOL
More informative then any other spray paint video thank you
Great video and the cheap racks I never would've thought of that. I see preparation is very important.
Thanks for the video. I think the finished job tells if it was professionally done. There can be many ways to an end...
Dang, that gives your kitchen an excellent boost.
Short sweet and concise, good vid!
This is probably one of the most helpful videos I've come across on how to paint kitchen cabinets. The only thing I would suggest is possibly skip the sanding part and use de-glosser prior to the bonding primer. This would save a lot of headache and the results should be the same.
Great job they look really good. But I would say for anyone else that may come across here looking to do their cabinets step 2 should always be labels your cabinets doors as you take them down so you know exactly where they go back. I just put a little sticky note on one side then rotate it to the opposite side when u need to paint the other side. Hope this helps someone.
Good job thank you for the video
5:15 tip is to be used for walls.. I would go with a smaller fan opening and smaller pressure.. like 3:10 to 3:12 fine finish tip (the green one from Graco)
For that X5 to accept the Green FFLP tips, he needs to also swap out his orange guard for the blue one. I highly recommend the 210 or 310 for Cabinets.
You’re right, 515 is way too much tip to spray cabinets. Also, you could tell the pressure was too high. 310 to 312 would be the way to go. You also want to keep the gun moving continuously to avoid spit.
Both of you are 💯 right!! Way to much pressure and wrong tip!! Also I spray my cabinets with and only a HVLP SPRAYER.
Magic LOL YOU JUST BECAME A PROFESSIONAL!!!!!
Fine Finish tips and continual motion
I can’t imagine you didn’t get paint spray on your truck spraying like that. 😂
Hi Dan,
I would have loved to see more about the 'orange peel' that you were talking about. I'm painting a barn door and have run into the same issue. I'm in the process of sanding it all off now, which is taking forever. As always, thanks for your work putting together this video (even if it has been 6 years.... :-).
Sherwin Bought out Frazee just for their Arothane product which is now under Sherwin's Pro Industrial line. Just about the best Trim/ Cab paint I've ever used. Oil/ Water Hybrid not to heavy viscosity lays down amazing and dries rock hard. Paint should be around 70 degrees for best application, leveling, and viscosity. 1)De- grease and gloss. 2) sand if existing finish in bad shape. 3) Zinsser Bin tie coat. 4) Sand. 5) 2 coats sherwin Wall and wood primer sand in between coats. 2 Finish coats Arothane sand in between coats.
I am getting ready to paint and i will use clothes hangers and hooks to hang the doors to paint on both sides at the same time and let them dry in the garage or closets
awesome video. i am about to partake in this same DIY project. painting my cabinets white from oak. so i plan to 1- wipe down with with tsp/water mix. 2-wipe with liquid sander 3-wipe with water again&dry. 4-using a 360vsp truecoat sprayer prime my boxes and doors with 2 or 3 coats. 5-paint white 6- paint top coat. my ?'s are: •i have kilz primer is that okay? •what to use as a top coat? •which paint is best to use so i can wipe/wash them down as needed to stay fresh white? i was thinking behr paint.
Technique called "Rolling and Tipping" look into it....I do that to all my jobs I cannot spray...It's so good you can't tell...
Great video! Thank you for the DIY tips. I'm getting ready to start on our kitchen cabinets and this video will help.
One of the most important tips before you start, that wasn't mentioned in the video, is to make sure you label your doors! Will save you a ton of time! Even when you take off the hinges, keep them at the same door.
just remember no need to use full pressure on spray gun and a small FAN spray will work best. Aura paint is perfect for the finish.
HVLP paint sprayers are good for getting that clean coats. Check to make sure your paint is at a proper viscosity prior to painting and you'll avoid those orange peel affects.
Nice work, looks like a good finish on your cabinets.
Great video ! Take Elliot Wallace's advice to heart !
Using a fflp 310 fine finish tip you’d like the outcome better but great video
You do a great job of clearly explaining each step. Good job bro! Keep on painting.
Hey man somebody probly already said this but consider using Graco or titan hvlp set up to do your cabinets. Offers finer finish (no orange peel or airless texture) and less overspray and way less product overall. Great job thanks for the video brother
southsideshenanigans those Graco fine finish low pressure tips are pretty sweet for an airless set up, no orange peel. You’re paying $50 for a tip though..
I'm a journey men painter and you dont have to high of pressure you have too big of a tip you need to be spraying with a 311th tip save alote on material. And have a really good finish. Good job bro looks great
Looks great.
might I suggest a fine finish tip in a smaller orifice. We use a Tritech 210. Half the amount of paint you are using and a factory finish. Less chance for runs and sags as well.
Thanks for the tip! I will definitely try that the next time to save paint
There are many factors in photoshop lessons. One resource I found that succeeds in merging these is the Trevs Photo Blueprint (google it if you're interested) definately the best blueprint i've heard of. Check out the amazing info.
A 210 Fine Finish tip is definitely the way to go and even more beneficial if you are spraying the boxes too!
Good job, i do that job down in Miami Florida, try using Benjamin Moore Advance paint, also ill definitely use a 311 or 310 spray tip. Best of luck.
Love the set up
Thanks for the advice. Very helpful. I've been a furniture finisher for years and I'm branching out into cabinet finishing now.
Any tips on pricing? Would much appreciate your input and help on the less technical aspects. Thanks from a new subscriber!
Just FYI for anyone thinking about doing this, they make primers that bond to glossy surfaces do you don't have to sand, that's all I use for my jobs and it saves a ton on labor.
Eric Moyer is there a brand you recommend ?
Zinnser Cover Stain Oil Based Primer
Zinsser Cover Stain 5-gal. Oil Base White Interior/Exterior Primer and Sealer is not suggested to apply on cabinet though...
Yiqian Wang
Yeah that’s 100% wrong
How many cabinets have you painted?
Nice job. Now you need a new counter top and back splash men those cabinets will stand out. 👍
Great video thanks 🙌
a 310 fine finish tip will give you much better results. 👍
Pressure looked way high? Congrats on the project
Great video! Very helpful now that I'm painting my cabinets but I forgot to sand the boxes. Hopefully that won't be an issue.
Sanding is a critical step. Your paint will tend to peel if you don't sand. A primer helps, but it's best to rough up the surface so the paint has something to grab onto.
+Handyman Startup AWESOME JOB.
Thanks for the video, I've watched it a few times and started on my kitchen. Do you use oil or latex primer? Oil or latex base paint?
I did cabinets with a small graco magnum airless with a 411 tip.
Done deal
hey bro thanks for the video , so i have question how much u can get from this kitchen . cuz i start painting right now and i need price for estimate bro .
Great video. Thank you!
Hey Dan. Great vids! Hope you still have more on the way!
Very helpful, thank you!
what brand primer? Ive read very good things about Zinser BIN. I saw a pro use it without sanding. Im considering using this for my project. I have old birch lacquer top cabinets i have to paint.
Really nice job 🙂
Great quick and easy video. What about clear coating after 2 coats?
Dwight Glasby that is the thing to do. It gives a real smooth finish.
Not sure that mineral spirits is the best, it will leave an oily residue. A TSP substitute is a much better cleaner/degreaser/deglosser. Also, realize the paint joint where a panel meets the frame will move and crack the paint at some point. Panels are meant to float.
great job and thanks for sharing! I'm about starting the exactly same project like yours colors also same from the light brown (or whatever the color called to white) Just have concern the doors are sprayed but the other parts are rolling, will it looks in different finish?
Air assist airless, or a HVLP cup gun would save you so much material and $$. I would only use airless for big walls or an automated machine running 200+ LF a minute.
nice job.
Nice job! Thanks for sharing. I was wondering, is there a noticeable difference between the look/feel of the cabinet frames that were rolled and the door frames that were painted? Is the look feel consistent? Or can you tell that the frames were rolled and the doors were sprayed? Thanks
One more question :)
I'm surprised you decide to use Auro paint great paint but it is just letex and it is going to be soft and stick in touch. I was looking in to use urethane or acrylic paint like:
BEHR® Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel, ADVANCE® Waterborne Interior Alkyd Paint, Insl x cabinet coat
So my question is: why did you decide to use Auro ?
+dymsza I definitely considered using an oil-based paint, but I didn't want to deal with the fumes in my house or deal with cleaning my sprayer and equipment with a bunch more chemicals.
After talking to the rep at Benjamin Moore, he convinced me that the Aura paint would hold up just fine and give me a smooth finish. He also mentioned that patching the paint would be much, much easier with latex.
My cabinets have been painted for over a year now and they still look great, hardness hasn't been an issue at all. I'd make that same decision again.
+dymsza PPG Breakthrough is even MORE durable. I give a 2 year warrantee on my cabinet work...and have YET to have to touch up ANYTHING. I don't understand why he wouldn't: wipe down with a grease cutter....wipe down with EZ sand.....prime with bonding primer....sand and tack cloth...and topcoat with Breakthrough.......sanding finish off not needed....and if you gouge the surface you have made more work.
Hi there. Job well done! I'm getting ready to tackle this project on my old oak cabinets as well. Your cabinets appear to have come out pretty smooth. What grain filler did you use and were you able to completely fill the grain or simply minimize the appearance? Thanks!
Hello. My cabinet is a yellowish white, while the door of the cabinet is normal white. If I spray the cabinet with white spray, is it enough or do I need a primer and clear coat as well? If yes, why?
For proper correspondence of doors /drawer fronts to the cabinets, mark and number them. This way everything will fall in place when putting back together. Avoid misalignment .
you mentioned the orange peel texture you got on the backside of the doors ... in order to get rid of that texture do you need to sand it down? Or can you just paint over it?
This video was very helpful to me, in starting a paint project in a few weeks... It answers all my question and more!
208 tip and low pressure so you focus more on spraying one foot away from surface without to much overspray, if you spray from to far away.
tip 315 would be the perfect size for cabinet using primera tip 211 when using the paint at about 2500psi.
Will mineral spirits remove dirt and grease stains on a painted kitchen cabinet?
Awesome video. Thanks so much..
If i use the smooth roller on the cabine doors will it be smooth or it will be see?
The type of paint will influence how smooth it is more than the roller, but the roller definitely has an effect:
May I ask what roller size you used as well as sand paper and sand block?
HVLP or Airless sprayer for cabinets? I have both and can't decide which one to use to spray the cabinets!
Thanks for the vid. How durable do you find the Aurora paint?
What are the stands called that you have all the cabinets on top of?
515? Damn that's to big. 310 is the way to go.
I've got no experience with a spray gun. What do I need to do this. A gun and air compressor? What exactly do I need to spray? Thanks
Mineral spirits is not a good degreaser and depending on your choice of top coating could create more problems for you. Use something like KrudKutter (brand name) first followed by TSP and you’ll be rid of the cooking grease and grime and will get great adhesion.
If you're going to use an airless sprayer you can use a 208 fflp. That's way too much over spray. 5:15 that's what you do ceilings with LOL
Hi, I am living in Sydney want to know which compressor is best for the spray?
Do you need to use any paint thinner in the paint to spray it?
No
Great video... We are getting ready to paint our oak cabinets white. I am debating whether to hand paint or spray like you did. I know spraying is such a benefit to get them done fast, but I was wondering if hand brushing them would have any benefits to better quality or vise versa. Do you think it would make any difference to hand paint the primer then spray??
+Colleen Boross Any time you apply by hand with a paintbrush you're more likely to have brush strokes show through which you don't want.
I would recommend spraying both the primer and paint - faster and better results.
How are the cabinets holding up now? I'm looking and I keep reading to seal the cabinets.
you should have used fresh start oil primer then aura or advance top coat...or even prime lock
What type of paint did you use for both the primer and paint. Oil based or water based?
I've traditionally done the sanding step on my cabinet jobs, but I've been told by other experts that using high bonding primer such as stix Insul-x makes this unnecessary. I'm skeptical, but also know that product formulations have improved.
You don't really have to sand it. Chemical deglosser works just fine. I used EZ Stripper - no strong chemical vapors, works as advertised and take that gloss away as needed, before priming.
Can I ask you water king of paint you used? water based? Any info would greatly help me.
What type of compressor i have to use for the cabinets painting
Sorry Dan, this is not how a pro would paint kitchen cabinets. I'm sure it will work and be pretty good for the do it yourselfers.
What would you do differently? Besides spraying the boxes.
Use Bondo Glazing Spot putty for nicks and dings instead of caulking or wood putty. Much stronger, also since they sanded past the varnish there is a good chance that tannin will bleed through even the primer since he used a BM primer. He needed to use an oil based primer preferably a zissner shellac. There is no waterborne tannin blockers on the market and if you read the data sheets even X-I-M UMA urethane modified acrylic says they will not block tannin. Next he used what appears to be a 515+ tip that does not allow a fine finish spray to lay down. Those tips are for spraying interior walls or exterior walls but he did reference that in the video. Also the topcoat which is BM Aura is 100% acrylic latex which never fully hardens. You will know this because you can sand it years later and it will still gum up your paper. What I would do differently? I would have used a promar lacquer undercoater and done 3 topcoats with a pigmented precat lacquer. The other option is if you are sanded down, shellac primer the open wood then if you want low VOC topcoat with either a precat waterborne pigmented lacquer like Kem-Aqua Plus or a precatalyzed waternborne epoxy. Those are products used in hospitals and industrial kitchens. That is how you would paint a cabinet like a pro. And I'm not a pro.
Thanks for sharing those tips. I always like to learn from others. But, just an FYI for others. After over 2 years, there is no tannin bleed through, so that was not an issue. Also, I'm not really sure if there are any major benefits to having the paint harden fully for most - at least not enough to justify using lacquer based paints that are much more difficult to work with, not to mention the chemicals you have to breath in. I understand that the harder paint would be more durable, and less prone to nicks and scratches, but unless you are in an industrial kitchen I don't see this as an issue. Plus, it's super simple to patch any scratches if they do occur with an acrylic paint.
Agree as a caveat this is a pro spec for a customer who will pay for a pro spec. You get what you pay for .Here in San Diego County you can expect for a full set to pay 10k plus for this spec for a small / midsize kitchen.
Says on the tds that Fresh Start 023 blocks tannin. It's all relative on how well it does that, yes. Synthetic BIN shellac is water based and blocks tannin well. PPG has water based Seal Grip primer that blocks tannins. California paints I believe has a water based version as well.
Hang the doors with a clothes hanger to save time and avoid the damage on back of the doors.
Otherwise great video.
i would be moving the car lol..
Hey there. Thank you for the video! Do you caulk the doors faces ever?
Ashley Meers i caulked mine where the decorative edging was applied to the flat cabinet. They are super cheap particleboard w veneer. In lieu of taking the drawer faces off, I caulked between the drawer boxes and faces. This was a kitty litter maneuver to hide the gap and what was caught in it. House going up for sale. The caulk did the trick to make everything look well put together. I sanded water damaged veneer and particleboard, sealed it, and painted. Most had been previously painted by an awful contractor so I buzzed it w a sander and skipped priming except on sanded to particleboard areas. I washed with TSP and found a lot of left behind grease to which paint had for adhered well. Lesson: if you want it done at least half ass right, do it yourself. I’m a 50 year old woman and did a far better job than the “contractor.”
What is your pait consumption for those cabinets? What is the difference of paint consumption with hvlp gun with air compressor?
What the guy in the video is doing is ok but I would recommend a hvlp turbine, at least a 4 stage. Airless is too messy in my opinion, too much waste.
Also instead of all that sanding in the beginning, use a shallac primer, it's an excellent etching primer & very durable.
How do you paint the side of the cabinets since they are not real wood?
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a question for the tips. Which one is better between 515 and 415 for primer?
Tim Son for cabinets???? 415 or 517 are for walls ... I use 210 for boxes and 310 for doors
Did you use a thinner to cut the paint or primer?
Did you paint the inside of the cabinets? Or was it already white?
What are you using for an undercoat and finish coat?
Good video but Im curious to how they are holding up, especially the lower cabinets. Without coating with a polycrylic of some kind aren't these chipping like crazy?
that overspray with the garage door open :D :D :D ....poor car