Nope, we just wipe it down and reapply the lube. If the bike is dirty enough to need a wash then we'll usually spray some soap or degreaser on the chain when we're washing it.
This is a HUGE thank you to you both. I'm nearly 60, and you have inspired me to ride a bike, and be confident to look after it my self. Excellent videos.
Hi Sid, noticed you said that you go up and down through your cassette after oiling your chain. I'd actually recommend not doing that. The key is just to allow some dwell time for the oil to work into the links of the chain. Then wipe excess off so it DOESN'T go all over your cassette. That will just attract dirt and dust to stick to your cassette when riding and more drivetrain wear.
This would be true for an old school dry or wet lube but they are actually using wax based lube. Those do not attract dust like the old ones. Zero friction cycling advises to spread it a bit all over the cassette, in order to reduce wear.
Definitely interested in a video on recognizing when different components need to be repaired or replaced. Lots of videos of “how to fix X” but less about how to tell if X needs to be replaced proactively (especially for things that maybe aren’t obvious like cables). I think you mentioned in your shed tour that you had a bucket of old worn out stuff!
I've been maintaining bikes for years, but I've really liked your videos, as they are great to send to new friends that I get into riding. Good level of technical information, but not getting too into the weeds. Also, as a fellow Squirt user, you can get a giant bottle and then offload it into the smaller bottle, and many shops even carry micro bottle which can be carried on the ride if you're doing a long/super dirty ride. Also, they make a cold weather formula, though I've frankly not had any issues with using the normal formula in the cold.
This was the best maintenance video I’ve seen. Thanks so much for this. I shall add these into my regime. I never realised we should be lubing the chain after most rides. Thank you.
I've never though about it, but you're absolutely right about the tire pressure change because of the temperature and altitude... just got my mind blown.. thanks!
If I have any issues on a ride, when I get back to the car at the trailhead, as soon as I open the door, I write a note about it and fix it before the next ride. Can't tell you how many times over the years someone (or me!) has say, used their spare tube and on a subsequent ride not had it because they (I'll be honest, me) forgot to put another in their pack. If it's not written down it won't get done, right. Same thing goes from practically any issue and if one waits until the preride bike check one usually doesn't have time to fix the issue correctly.
Great vid thanks! A couple of things that work for me - I use synthetic lube b/c it lasts longer. I ride in SoCal so don’t have much rain or mud, only dust, and the syn lube seems to work well. As for work needed to be done on one of my bikes that I notice during a ride, often I don’t feel like doing it right after the ride (need to eat, shower, work :) so I write a “work order” note to myself and hang it from the bike with a rubber band on the grips. That way I can’t miss it when I take the bike down or when I am in the garage for any other reason.
I'm not sure I agree about where to lube your chain. What you actually want to lubricate is between the inside of the roller and the shoulder of the inner links. So it shouldn't really matter which way you apply the lube. As the chain moves the lube will work its way where it needs to be.
As a motorcyclist it's always recommended to lube your chain from the inside because centrifugal force throws the lube outwards through the chain (and hopefully then away, taking the dirt with it). If you only lube the outside, that same force will stop it from getting to the centre properly.
@@enright13 the capillary force is enough to get the lube across the whole link, unless you put lube on, then immediately spin the chain out to 1000rpm.
No way! I just realized I saw you two at the Pikes Peak Apex race. I was the first marshal at the top of the hill on Palmer Park day. I also helped set up and tear down the start and finish lines on other days! You two are awesome. So great to make the connection. All the best
Good ideas on how to maintain a bike. I have an expensive folding bike and I take good care of it so it’ll last forever. Your video gave me more important ideas on how to keep my bike in good running condition. Thumbs up to you guys.
LOL Today, just before I watched your video, I had a ride. The front wheel felt a bit wobbly but I decided not to care and just have fun. When I got home I cleaned my bike from all the mud and also lubed the chain. Then I watched this and I decided to check my fork. Turns out that with your method you can find not only if the headset is loose but also if the front tire is. This was my case. Perhaps I didn't tighten it enough last time or it just got loose from riding. Anyway Thanks. Awesome video.
When I got my FS trail bike and bought a tork wrench to check every bolt . I really like how they label the tork setting for the bolts so that I never over tighten them. Thanks for great advice
Wax lube gets you 5 watts of power savings but I guess you guys new that . I also Like squirt but I have found a spray on wax used on chain driven vehicles that compliments my squirt for a quick lube and dont have to wait for squirt to dry which for me seems to be about a day . One good tip on squirt is put it in the microwave for 8 to 10 seconds and give it a shake upside down and apply one link at a time . I also like holding the chain top and bottom with my thumb and index finger and give a back pedal to force the wax to cover all the individual inner links . I also like to use some slickoleum on my fork stanchion and dropper stanchion for lubrication from time to time . All good maintenance tips . Well done
Thats an imporant reminder. I recently found a frame fracture, and it definitly saved my ass cause I was gonna send some stairs with my long-no-ridden Allmountain!
They are wrong though. Chain doesn't have "inside" or "outside" sides. Rollers spin all the time and that's the only part that touches chain rings or cogs. Unless you are using the lube with consistency of alcohol, the surface tension will coat the entire roller anyways.. Secondly, its not so much the outside of the chain that you lube, but the gap between the pin and the roller (the actual inside of the chain). What they are saying is a myth, but at the same time over-apply the lube, when it should be put only one drop at the time into each roller and let it penetrate it.
If you're wondering how to make your channel better - those little things where you were going to loosen the headset to show us what a loose one looks and sounds like but then said "naahh" and didn't do it.. that is where you could improve. Doing things like this will make your channel so much better and informative.
Some youtuber (Spindatt maybe ?) suggested to hang tags on your bikes with notes about what needs to be fixed/tuned. Basically like a repair shop would do for clients' bikes
I don't mean to be that guy, but when I used squirt lube my drivetrain was always filthy and built up with git. Maybe different environment, but since I switched to muc off dry lube I haven't had that problem. I don't even use wet lube anymore, if its wet then I just use dry more often. Keep up the good job guys!
Interesting. Did you clean it REALLY well before beginning to use Squirt? The only time we've had grit/build-up issues was when we started using it without fully getting rid of the factory lube first. And then it was usually only a problem for a week or two.
Rollers move, surface tension, viscocity and whatever that "suction thing" is called on liquids happen so even if you apply lube on top, it will get all over (and inside) with a few shifts and spinning.
You mention the brake maintenance check just as if only hydraulic disk brakes exist. ..what about mechanical disk brakes or rim brakes? I suggest to put some lubrication oil at the end of each cable end where it comes out of the cable tubing, to keep the cable sliding smoothly in and out of the tube. Cool video and lumberjack style :-)
You lost me at 11:40 with the post-ride repair work. I can't count the number of times the drivetrain on my bike has fixed itself hanging on the wall between rides. I hate to give-up on this time-tested, ultra-time-efficient approach to bike maintenance.
Very helpful! I clean, lube and check everything after EVERY ride. I do check tire pressure and brakes before. Really enjoying this series of tutorials, thanks!
I find shock air pressure is more affected by temp/altitude change then my tires. That could be becuz I'm always adding/changing tire pressures anyway.
Interesting. Since it's a closed system, shock air pressure isn't affected by altitude (well, technically it is, but it's extremely minimal). Temperature does affect it though, but not as much as it does tire pressure (since tires are a stretchy container).
the cassette does not need lubrification. The lubrification of the chain is only for the pivots inside the chain. There is no sliding between the chain and the cassette or between the chain and the 2 cogs, no lubrification needed.
Very Helpful thank you, I had a cringe moment when you hair looked like it was about to get entangled with your rear bikes tire or sprocket. Be safe and watch those hairs. I had long hair down my back and could seed myself getting tangled up. Hat are tied up when i'm at work.
Using Molten Speed Wax every 8h of riding (unless rain is belting down) is the bomb for MTB. No more chain cleaning, crud build up etc. etc. And you save Watts and money!
Keep in mind that the outside of the chain ALSO is in contact with one of the derailleur pulleys... In my opinion it's good practice to simply lube both sides of the chain... In any case, we're over analyzing, but it's good to be clear on certain things.
If you only lube the underside of your chain your bottle will last longer. I check my tire pressure before ever ride. No exceptions. Under inflation causes wash outs and crashes. You can’t tell if you’re 5lbs. off by squeezing the tire with your hand. It will also let you know if you have a slow leak. Which might be a thorn that hasn’t caused a big leak yet but will a half mile down the road.
If using Squirt lube you pretty much have to lube *after* your ride, not before, because it has to dry for at least 15 minutes before riding [the water has to evaporate off in order for the wax to do its lubing thing].
Interesting math to be done with following the recommended frequent chain lubing and saving money. Not saying it isn't viable, just seems like there's a point at which you probably won't save money with all the lube you'll be using but hey if it makes somebody feel more secure, it's worth something.
A clean well lubed chain will make cassette shifts faster and smoother. The expense of the lube is far cheeper than replacing worn out cassette or crank sets, IF they are still available. Chains don't last for ever, the chain stretches when they get old causing excessive ware on the cassette and crank set.
Worth mentioning when cable brakes get squishy don't just readjust the cable replace it. Lesson learned the wrong way. Resolving the issue with hydraulic disk brakes.
Thanks Syd, Just checked the headset on my Gravel bike and it was loose. All good now. Thanks for the tip. Aldo have you ever tried waxing your chain? I do and it certainly helps with regular maintenance. My chain is never dirty nor are my hands.....
I was shamed into going out and clean my bike and air up the tires. I found the seat bolt loose and tightened and leveled same. My normal methods to take the bike out of the van and ride. Just as found in an earlier comment. John. USA
10:00 I'm no expert but from what I'v read/heard you don't need to get the "chain lube all over the cassette". It's supposedly even a bad thing because when it's lubed it's sticky and it will accumulate dirt, resulting in a dirt paste that is going to damage cassette and chain. Same thing applies for the crankset chainring. When you need to lube your chain, firstly you need to clean your chain at least with a piece of cloth (the best way is to remove it and clean it thoroughly with bike cleaner, the worst way are those plastic bike washers as they spread dirt all over your drive train) and then apply small amount of lube of your choice on one pin at the time while wiping off any excess with a cloth. Goal is to lube every single pin of the chain with just a drop of lube to avoid having your whole drivetrain wet and sticky. After lubing let it "rest" at least over night and then wipe your chain again with a cloth. Sometimes less is more. If you're going to it same way as they've showed in this video in the part about post-ride lube you're using unnecessary excessive amount of lube while spreading in it all over the drivetrain. That means it's more expenise (as you'll need to buy more lube), you drivetrain will accumulate dirt much more quickly (especially on mountain bike) which means lower efficiency and shorter longevity, or more cleaning and maintenance. Like i said, I'm definitely no expert but I'v done some research. I'v read it multiple times and heard it from other bikers aswell. It makes sense to me and worked well for me so far.
Hi, is this required for every type of bikes, for instance ive got trek dual sport 2 hybrid bike and all i do is wash it occassionally and check tyre pressure.
This frequency is more important for mountain bikes because of the abuse they receive on the trails. But, you should probably at least do all of this every time you wash it and more frequently would be better. It really doesn't take long after you do it a couple of times and get in the habit.
For your compressor set up did you have to cut off the original brass chuck on the digital tire inflator to then install the Lezyne dual valve replacement head? Any issues or complications to the switch out? Thanks!
It's been a while since we did that, but I think we just unscrewed the original head (it was plastic I believe) and installed the Lezyne. It took a little force, but worked and has been fine since.
After 1 day in Sunpeaks bike park I did a bolt check on my Demo 8 and found the brake caliper was loose the chain ring was about to fall of and the shock bolts were loose and stem bolts, some on the fork and shifters, I check my Demo 8 before and after a day in the park
If this video was helpful and saved you time and/or money, consider supporting the channel by hitting the "Thanks" button above to leave a tip.
Hey Syd, great video, BUT I have a question: do you degrease the chain with a degreaser before greasing back the chain each time?
Nope, we just wipe it down and reapply the lube. If the bike is dirty enough to need a wash then we'll usually spray some soap or degreaser on the chain when we're washing it.
This is a HUGE thank you to you both. I'm nearly 60, and you have inspired me to ride a bike, and be confident to look after it my self. Excellent videos.
Hi Sid, noticed you said that you go up and down through your cassette after oiling your chain. I'd actually recommend not doing that. The key is just to allow some dwell time for the oil to work into the links of the chain. Then wipe excess off so it DOESN'T go all over your cassette. That will just attract dirt and dust to stick to your cassette when riding and more drivetrain wear.
This would be true for an old school dry or wet lube but they are actually using wax based lube. Those do not attract dust like the old ones. Zero friction cycling advises to spread it a bit all over the cassette, in order to reduce wear.
@@ANONyme-xt4vbinteresting, good stuff to know. Thank you!
@@ANONyme-xt4vbwhat about a ceramic lube or a ceramic-wax mix?
Super handy to have the one one-minute summary of everything at 12:18. You guys are awesome!
True!! I really like this at the end of the videos
At the beginning would be even better!!
Definitely interested in a video on recognizing when different components need to be repaired or replaced. Lots of videos of “how to fix X” but less about how to tell if X needs to be replaced proactively (especially for things that maybe aren’t obvious like cables). I think you mentioned in your shed tour that you had a bucket of old worn out stuff!
Bought a bike offline and I literally feel like a bike mechanic after watching all these UA-cam bike maintenance videos. Thanks Syd!
"offline"?? . lol. Hope you got a good one!
I've been maintaining bikes for years, but I've really liked your videos, as they are great to send to new friends that I get into riding. Good level of technical information, but not getting too into the weeds. Also, as a fellow Squirt user, you can get a giant bottle and then offload it into the smaller bottle, and many shops even carry micro bottle which can be carried on the ride if you're doing a long/super dirty ride. Also, they make a cold weather formula, though I've frankly not had any issues with using the normal formula in the cold.
Chris fix is for cars, Syd fix is for bikes...
You are the person who likes bikes and cars
Haha yep, love watching Chris Fix even though I'm not a car person lol
Hey guys syd fix here, today we will fix a blown head gasket on a bike.
Don't forget berm peak and berm peak express
@@nidhishghag9080 Seth doesn’t designate his channel to mainly teaching how to fix stuff tho
This was the best maintenance video I’ve seen. Thanks so much for this. I shall add these into my regime. I never realised we should be lubing the chain after most rides. Thank you.
Halfway my first bottle of Squirt lube, I love it! Even in wet conditions. Lubricates well and doesn’t attract dirt.
Yes, but it's quite thick and builds up on the cogs
It's not lube. It's called Squirt dry wax.
Character, personality and understandable knowledge. Sweet. Thanks Keep’em coming
My pre-ride routine: Pull bike out of van, hop on, if I die I die
Same 🤣
There all gonna laugh at you!
🤣🤣🤣
You made my morning. Your method is mine exactly. John. USA
Glad I'm not the only one lo
I've never though about it, but you're absolutely right about the tire pressure change because of the temperature and altitude... just got my mind blown.. thanks!
This is now in my top 3 FAVE channels!! I love the way you detail a process, then paraphrase at the end, very well done!!
Thank you so much! ❤️
How did I not find this channel sooner, you guys are great! I enjoy the format and your advice is spot on👍
If I have any issues on a ride, when I get back to the car at the trailhead, as soon as I open the door, I write a note about it and fix it before the next ride. Can't tell you how many times over the years someone (or me!) has say, used their spare tube and on a subsequent ride not had it because they (I'll be honest, me) forgot to put another in their pack. If it's not written down it won't get done, right. Same thing goes from practically any issue and if one waits until the preride bike check one usually doesn't have time to fix the issue correctly.
Great point!
Great vid thanks! A couple of things that work for me - I use synthetic lube b/c it lasts longer. I ride in SoCal so don’t have much rain or mud, only dust, and the syn lube seems to work well. As for work needed to be done on one of my bikes that I notice during a ride, often I don’t feel like doing it right after the ride (need to eat, shower, work :) so I write a “work order” note to myself and hang it from the bike with a rubber band on the grips. That way I can’t miss it when I take the bike down or when I am in the garage for any other reason.
I'm not sure I agree about where to lube your chain. What you actually want to lubricate is between the inside of the roller and the shoulder of the inner links. So it shouldn't really matter which way you apply the lube. As the chain moves the lube will work its way where it needs to be.
As a motorcyclist it's always recommended to lube your chain from the inside because centrifugal force throws the lube outwards through the chain (and hopefully then away, taking the dirt with it). If you only lube the outside, that same force will stop it from getting to the centre properly.
@@enright13 the capillary force is enough to get the lube across the whole link, unless you put lube on, then immediately spin the chain out to 1000rpm.
No way! I just realized I saw you two at the Pikes Peak Apex race. I was the first marshal at the top of the hill on Palmer Park day. I also helped set up and tear down the start and finish lines on other days! You two are awesome. So great to make the connection. All the best
Thanks for being our there and helping! It was a rad event!
I loved your video on the rear derailleur. It has been very informative. I was finally able to understand the reverse ideas
Simple - clear - needed - and mostly appreciated
Good ideas on how to maintain a bike. I have an expensive folding bike and I take good care of it so it’ll last forever. Your video gave me more important ideas on how to keep my bike in good running condition. Thumbs up to you guys.
Thank you - my headset was actually not very tight. Pressed pause in the video - Fixed it - much better now - Pressed play again :)
I commute with my Canyon road lite AL 7.0. Great bike. BTW, just subbed, season greetings from Finland, Europe.
LOL Today, just before I watched your video, I had a ride. The front wheel felt a bit wobbly but I decided not to care and just have fun. When I got home I cleaned my bike from all the mud and also lubed the chain. Then I watched this and I decided to check my fork. Turns out that with your method you can find not only if the headset is loose but also if the front tire is. This was my case. Perhaps I didn't tighten it enough last time or it just got loose from riding. Anyway Thanks. Awesome video.
When I got my FS trail bike and bought a tork wrench to check every bolt . I really like how they label the tork setting for the bolts so that I never over tighten them. Thanks for great advice
Wax lube gets you 5 watts of power savings but I guess you guys new that . I also Like squirt but I have found a spray on wax used on chain driven vehicles that compliments my squirt for a quick lube and dont have to wait for squirt to dry which for me seems to be about a day . One good tip on squirt is put it in the microwave for 8 to 10 seconds and give it a shake upside down and apply one link at a time . I also like holding the chain top and bottom with my thumb and index finger and give a back pedal to force the wax to cover all the individual inner links . I also like to use some slickoleum on my fork stanchion and dropper stanchion for lubrication from time to time . All good maintenance tips . Well done
Well guess I've been lubing my chain wrong the whole time.😊 Nice tips. Snow and cold are settling in here . Have a Happy Holidays. Al
Thats an imporant reminder. I recently found a frame fracture, and it definitly saved my ass cause I was gonna send some stairs with my long-no-ridden Allmountain!
Ohhhh...Inside of the chain, that makes perfect sense and I've been doing it wrong for years! :-)
They are wrong though. Chain doesn't have "inside" or "outside" sides. Rollers spin all the time and that's the only part that touches chain rings or cogs. Unless you are using the lube with consistency of alcohol, the surface tension will coat the entire roller anyways.. Secondly, its not so much the outside of the chain that you lube, but the gap between the pin and the roller (the actual inside of the chain). What they are saying is a myth, but at the same time over-apply the lube, when it should be put only one drop at the time into each roller and let it penetrate it.
@@sodalitia take the straw off the wd 40 and Spray everything but the pedals and nit the saddle. Wipe it down and good to go. Price me wrong
@@donotrobme9295 Never use WD40 on your bike.
@@iddra1868 it works great. Lube it all. Especially your friends bikes
You guys are the best! Syd your smile is adictive.
If you're wondering how to make your channel better - those little things where you were going to loosen the headset to show us what a loose one looks and sounds like but then said "naahh" and didn't do it.. that is where you could improve. Doing things like this will make your channel so much better and informative.
Great video! I didn’t realise the shock could come loose so easily 😱 will be checking this before every ride from now on
Some youtuber (Spindatt maybe ?) suggested to hang tags on your bikes with notes about what needs to be fixed/tuned. Basically like a repair shop would do for clients' bikes
I don't mean to be that guy, but when I used squirt lube my drivetrain was always filthy and built up with git. Maybe different environment, but since I switched to muc off dry lube I haven't had that problem. I don't even use wet lube anymore, if its wet then I just use dry more often. Keep up the good job guys!
Interesting. Did you clean it REALLY well before beginning to use Squirt? The only time we've had grit/build-up issues was when we started using it without fully getting rid of the factory lube first. And then it was usually only a problem for a week or two.
Thank you both. I've been lubing my chains wrong for 40 years. Hmm !!
Can you do a video on hub bearings using good bearings and installing them?
Rollers move, surface tension, viscocity and whatever that "suction thing" is called on liquids happen so even if you apply lube on top, it will get all over (and inside) with a few shifts and spinning.
I think it’s be fun to watch you guys wash a bike in the snow. I’ll subscribe for that
Great video Syd! You guys may want to check out the cordless portable inflators from Ryobi :)
You mention the brake maintenance check just as if only hydraulic disk brakes exist. ..what about mechanical disk brakes or rim brakes? I suggest to put some lubrication oil at the end of each cable end where it comes out of the cable tubing, to keep the cable sliding smoothly in and out of the tube. Cool video and lumberjack style :-)
Syd is simply the best!
Thanks, im new to riding, and did not know you need to wipe off the excess lube from the chain
I haven’t cleaned/oiled/lubed my bike in over a year and somehow it still rides relatively well
Thanks. I have never done anything to my street bike except ad air
You lost me at 11:40 with the post-ride repair work. I can't count the number of times the drivetrain on my bike has fixed itself hanging on the wall between rides. I hate to give-up on this time-tested, ultra-time-efficient approach to bike maintenance.
They lost me at beginning !! I've been cycling since i was 7 , never needed any daily work :/
Put Maxima SC1 on your stanchions !
Prevent the mud from sticking.
I like your videos 🤘😎
Very helpful! I clean, lube and check everything after EVERY ride. I do check tire pressure and brakes before. Really enjoying this series of tutorials, thanks!
I find shock air pressure is more affected by temp/altitude change then my tires. That could be becuz I'm always adding/changing tire pressures anyway.
Interesting. Since it's a closed system, shock air pressure isn't affected by altitude (well, technically it is, but it's extremely minimal). Temperature does affect it though, but not as much as it does tire pressure (since tires are a stretchy container).
This is awesome. Informative, and can tell you enjoy what you do.
Really enjoying this channel, iam awaiting the shipment of my first "real" bike and all this info is going to help tons. Thank you!
Congrats!
Check your tire pressure to suit the ride ahead. (From dirt road rider that has to be suffer some speedy tarmac and back)
Best video I've seen out of six
the cassette does not need lubrification. The lubrification of the chain is only for the pivots inside the chain. There is no sliding between the chain and the cassette or between the chain and the 2 cogs, no lubrification needed.
Although Syd demonstrates how to do so very well, the workshop floor under your chain also does not need lubricating before/after every ride.
@@sacha2711 yes one droplet per link, not a shower.
I'd love to see that full bike wash video soon. :)
ua-cam.com/video/RBoE_OO9uAA/v-deo.html
Very Helpful thank you, I had a cringe moment when you hair looked like it was about to get entangled with your rear bikes tire or sprocket. Be safe and watch those hairs. I had long hair down my back and could seed myself getting tangled up. Hat are tied up when i'm at work.
I have to say Syd has the best teeth. Some really good dental hygiene going on here.
And she’s beautiful!!!😊
Challenging Fantano for Best Teeth in the Game®️ crown
Love this channel & these how to vid’s! And yes I’ve been doing everything wrong. But now I know better :-)
Great advice, thank you so much!!
What brand and model of dropper post do you have mounted on the bike shown in this video?
Fox Transfer. Link in the description of this video: ua-cam.com/video/aAnzoB5Fj70/v-deo.html
Using Molten Speed Wax every 8h of riding (unless rain is belting down) is the bomb for MTB. No more chain cleaning, crud build up etc. etc. And you save Watts and money!
This was very helpful, thank you!
Phenomenal video Syd! Thanks.
Keep in mind that the outside of the chain ALSO is in contact with one of the derailleur pulleys... In my opinion it's good practice to simply lube both sides of the chain... In any case, we're over analyzing, but it's good to be clear on certain things.
I didn't think that you want to put the lube on the bottom of the chain but it makes sense.
Just came across this channel subbed! Loved the video love these mechanical videos like these
Use threadlocker if ans screw or bolt are coming lose
Blue to start with but maybe green if it still gets lose but check the treads first
If you only lube the underside of your chain your bottle will last longer.
I check my tire pressure before ever ride. No exceptions. Under inflation causes wash outs and crashes. You can’t tell if you’re 5lbs. off by squeezing the tire with your hand. It will also let you know if you have a slow leak. Which might be a thorn that hasn’t caused a big leak yet but will a half mile down the road.
The derailleur touches both sides of the chain, so lubing both sides makes sense.
Why not use thread locker on some of those bolts that often get loose but you rarely want to tweak?
Video on suspension air pressure please?
I saw another video that said you only have to reapply squirt every 100 miles.
If using Squirt lube you pretty much have to lube *after* your ride, not before, because it has to dry for at least 15 minutes before riding [the water has to evaporate off in order for the wax to do its lubing thing].
Damn, I need to quit my job to do all these things regularly. :P
check the Stepcast rebound knob, sometimes becomes loose.
Interesting math to be done with following the recommended frequent chain lubing and saving money. Not saying it isn't viable, just seems like there's a point at which you probably won't save money with all the lube you'll be using but hey if it makes somebody feel more secure, it's worth something.
Your bike also rides better, is quieter and is more efficient if the drivetrain is properly lubed 😉
A clean well lubed chain will make cassette shifts faster and smoother. The expense of the lube is far cheeper than replacing worn out cassette or crank sets, IF they are still available. Chains don't last for ever, the chain stretches when they get old causing excessive ware on the cassette and crank set.
How do I wash my bike properly at a car wash? I live high up in an apartment so I cant use a garden hose/sprayer.
Just stand farther back so the spray isn't as powerful. Besides that, it's the same
Worth mentioning when cable brakes get squishy don't just readjust the cable replace it. Lesson learned the wrong way. Resolving the issue with hydraulic disk brakes.
Thanks Syd, Just checked the headset on my Gravel bike and it was loose. All good now. Thanks for the tip. Aldo have you ever tried waxing your chain? I do and it certainly helps with regular maintenance. My chain is never dirty nor are my hands.....
Squirt if a wax-based lube, so very similar to waxing a chain except it doesn't last quite as long and you don't have to remove it to lube it.
Can you show us how to service a pressfit bottom bracket?
Do you know of a good video on troubleshooting or maintaining a dropper post?
Hi! Great stuff as always. Pleasant day.
I was shamed into going out and clean my bike and air up the tires. I found the seat bolt loose and tightened and leveled same. My normal methods to take the bike out of the van and ride. Just as found in an earlier comment. John. USA
Thanks for confirming I don't need to wash my bike here in So Cal. Dusting it is best but what about accumulated dust in those fork seals?
Just wipe them off!
You need a space heater for your shop!
10:00 I'm no expert but from what I'v read/heard you don't need to get the "chain lube all over the cassette". It's supposedly even a bad thing because when it's lubed it's sticky and it will accumulate dirt, resulting in a dirt paste that is going to damage cassette and chain. Same thing applies for the crankset chainring.
When you need to lube your chain, firstly you need to clean your chain at least with a piece of cloth (the best way is to remove it and clean it thoroughly with bike cleaner, the worst way are those plastic bike washers as they spread dirt all over your drive train) and then apply small amount of lube of your choice on one pin at the time while wiping off any excess with a cloth. Goal is to lube every single pin of the chain with just a drop of lube to avoid having your whole drivetrain wet and sticky. After lubing let it "rest" at least over night and then wipe your chain again with a cloth. Sometimes less is more.
If you're going to it same way as they've showed in this video in the part about post-ride lube you're using unnecessary excessive amount of lube while spreading in it all over the drivetrain. That means it's more expenise (as you'll need to buy more lube), you drivetrain will accumulate dirt much more quickly (especially on mountain bike) which means lower efficiency and shorter longevity, or more cleaning and maintenance.
Like i said, I'm definitely no expert but I'v done some research. I'v read it multiple times and heard it from other bikers aswell. It makes sense to me and worked well for me so far.
The “lube” they are using isn’t actually lube, it’s dry wax
What brand of digital tire inflator is the one you used in the video?
Shimano, but they're hard to find, so we linked to another good one in the description.
Well done Syd , where do you guys live? I’m in Durango, CO for 12 days riding
Hi, is this required for every type of bikes, for instance ive got trek dual sport 2 hybrid bike and all i do is wash it occassionally and check tyre pressure.
This frequency is more important for mountain bikes because of the abuse they receive on the trails. But, you should probably at least do all of this every time you wash it and more frequently would be better. It really doesn't take long after you do it a couple of times and get in the habit.
I love snow, I also don't see snow much here in England :(
Great job, Syd!
Ok, I had to pause and say I love the bottlecap stem cap. Where did you find that?
That's the Niner YAWYD stem cap: www.ninerbikes.com/collections/yawyd/
this helps a lot, thank you!
Is kmc chains the best and how long they. Last just doing normal day to day rides
Do you need to lube your chain after every ride? (I ride almost daily) Great video btw!
Depends on the conditions and the lube. We use Squirt lube and in dry conditions generally lube the chain every 4-5 riding hours.
For your compressor set up did you have to cut off the original brass chuck on the digital tire inflator to then install the Lezyne dual valve replacement head? Any issues or complications to the switch out? Thanks!
It's been a while since we did that, but I think we just unscrewed the original head (it was plastic I believe) and installed the Lezyne. It took a little force, but worked and has been fine since.
After 1 day in Sunpeaks bike park I did a bolt check on my Demo 8 and found the brake caliper was loose the chain ring was about to fall of and the shock bolts were loose and stem bolts, some on the fork and shifters, I check my Demo 8 before and after a day in the park
Whoa!!
I love yalls videos!
Do you have an affiliate link for your bike storage hangers?
Would love the clean routine video!
You guys are awesome!