🛒 Rich Solar 3,000W Inverter: • Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/products/3000-watt-48v-all-in-one-inverter?ref=TheSolarLab • Use Code: THESOLARLAB101 for $101 Off Orders Over $2,000 🛒 Shop Complete Solar Kits & Components: • Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=TheSolarLab • Use Code: THESOLARLAB101 for $101 Off Orders Over $2,000 • Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=thesolarlab • Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your ORder ☀ Calculate Solar Panel Cost for your House: www.solar-estimate.org/solar-calculator?aff=207512&cam=750 🔔 Subscribe to our UA-cam Channel: @TheSolarLab Rich Solar has been making great products, for a long time! When it comes to their entry level, 3,000w inverter - at its current price on Shop Solar - this thing is a no brainer! Its a super quiet, efficient, and affordable option.. possibly better then EG4? 0:00 - Intro 0:52 - 60 Second Teardown 2:12 - Favourite Features 4:24 - What We Don't Like 6:46 - Install / Set Up 8:35 - Testing 11:50 - Final Thoughts ⚡ FOLLOW US: instagram.com/thesolarlab/ www.tiktok.com/@thesolarlab 👨🏼💻 The Solar Lab: www.thesolarlab.com We maintain an affiliate relationship with some of the products reviewed, which means we get a small percentage of a sale if you click our links, at no cost to our viewers.
I'm not sure I consider Rich solar to be a premium brand, but I will say if you're going with a transformerless design, and you'll need 6000 watts or more, it would not make any sense at all to get this particular unit over the EG4 6000xp. Even at $499, by the time you purchase two of them, and all of the breakers/disconnects, you'd spend just as much but have a more complicated solution that won't accept nearly as much voltage on the PV side.
The limited input voltage is the deal breaker for me. My present array is 350 volts. That is a 25 amp input from the panel wiring. My array is 159 feet away, meaning line loss (and copper price) makes this not usable. With 350 volts, the current is only about 8.6 amps. This is manageable. Power loss is I SQUARE R. But, a nice unit for many.
I would guess that if you’re talented enough to be working with this all of this on a DIY basis YOU HAVE ALL THE TOOLS REQUIRED TO HOOK THIS UP. And adversely if you don’t have all the tools to this up, you should not be fooling with this 😳 ❤️🔥❤️🔥🇺🇸
Hi. I’m a new subscriber. On these inverter videos you might want to mention the system voltage from the beginning. Not everyone runs a 12 volt setup. I watched it all and no mention of the volts.
Thanks for the great video. There's gotta be a better name for these devices, as they are not just an inverter, it's a charger and charge controller too, yeah? Does it take 120vac & 240vac input to charge batteries too? Is it MPPT or PWM? Pure sine wave or square?
I didn't catch anything mentioned in the video about how much solar is needed to start charging a battery, is it the same as the EG4 that needs a minimum amount?
Bummed to find it’s a 48v. I’m running a 24 and the Quiet had me ready to buy! Any other recon’s for a quiet one? I have an MppSolar I love but loud fans 24/7
More like Growatt uses the same OEM that Rich, Renogy, and ten other brands use to make their cookie-cutter all-in-one's. So they are all equally lackluster (or outright bad). That's why they are getting so cheap... the market is saturated with these things. And also why they are basically worthless. You can tell how old the design is by looking at the idle power.
Egs002 24 mosfet board and 6kw apc transformer, 120 240, it draws only 0.5a. These are not efficient. And the egs002 will push 200a with 52v probably 300a if tuned properly.
This type of inverter will never be able to do what low frequency inverters, with massive transformers can do. Slap inductive loads on these, and try to start compressors and you will see their limits. This comment is for the English language which is being butchered by native English speakers, and we are teaching foreigners improper grammar...for the love of piss...'then' is a point in time, 'than' is a comparison. Your caption uses the word 'then', when it should be 'than'. YES...it matters! Your caption should read - "BETTER THAN EG4?"
Same cookie-cutter all-in-one that half a dozen other brands. They are all made by the same Chinese OEM... you can tell because all the specs are almost exactly the same. They are on sale because there is an over-supply of cheap, lack-luster all-in-one's on the market now. Idle consumption is fairly typical for these cheap all-in-one's, and its unfortunate because ~46W is a lot of power to waste. An immense amount of power... 1100Wh/day. Over 200W worth of solar panels on a good day, wasted. To be honest, it makes the units almost useless since they are targeting small systems where every watt-hour is precious. Combine that with the limited voltage input for the solar and what you really have there is just a glorified battery charger and low-end UPS for AC mains, and not a whole lot else. Nut-and-bolt battery connections are exactly what you want for any battery connection. The shove-in style connectors are fine for relatively low amperages, but not if you are pushing 80A. You absolutely want nut-and-bolt, always. You ever see a push-in for that kind of amperage, you run away as fast as you can. Air filters? Good god, no. That's dangerous. You absolutely never want to have air filters in power electronics like this. If they ever get clogged up, the thing will catch fire. Don't mount it anywhere sawdust is flying about, that's just asking for a fire (air filter or not). If it weren't for the idle consumption these things would actually be useful. But that idle consumption will crater your battery and in larger configurations you don't want to use a unit this cheap anyway, so it really has no niche to fit into. Not even as a UPS. If looking to do a system like this seriously, look at the Victron Multiplus-II 48V 3kW or 5kW ... those are actually useful and the only difference is that they don't have a built-in charge controller. So buy a little Victron 100/20 smart-solar charge controller and a Multiplus-II and call it a day. Extremely low idle power consumption, proper float and bulk algorithm, and logic that actually works well. -Matt
@@JohnnyThomas-ps6mp This is not correct. A Victron multiplus has far, FAR lower idle consumption. A Multiplus-II 48/3K idles at 12W in normal inverter mode (ECO mode not activated). All of Victron's multiplus units have very low idle consumption... they are best-in-class. -Matt
The victron setup is far more costly, so the comparison makes no sense when this video is geared toward a solid affordable system. If money is no issue then yeah, Victron would be the way to go.
@@SettledOutWestOG This isn't correct. Victron has tons of reasonably-priced gear, including inverters. They aren't bottom of the barrel in terms of up-front cost, but the Victron equipment is far, far more robust than those cookie-cutter units. Victron's stuff will last a lot longer, the warranties are solid, and the equipment is a lot less likely to burn-down your home or RV. You can buy a cheap all-in-one. And then have to buy another one a few years later. And then buy another one a few years later... all the while getting lack-luster performance and poor efficiencies that generate more heat and require you to beef up your solar to compensate. Idle consumption is a huge problem with these cheap all-in-one's. The idle consumption alone is equivlent to piddling away 250W worth of solar panels in full sun JUST to keep the inverter running, never mind actually running any equipment. See the problem? -Matt
@junkerzn7312 then you go buy what you find 'reasonably priced' while I pick up this affordable unit, then pick up another for a fraction of what I'd get at victron for a 6000w inverter setup. Clean it up any way you want, trashing this and anyone that doesn't have victron money won't change the fact that it makes zero sense to compare the two.
Neither one of these high frequency inverters have an isolation transformer which is necessary for safety and performance. So I wouldn't buy either one of them. Junk.
So do you have any device that is this cheap and safe as you mentioned? I think because of the very cheap price of those two devices, safety is essential. So is there any additional way to fix it? I thought having fuses would be enough.
No grid-tied all-in-one or similar unit will ever be isolated from the AC input. They might have LF inverters in them, but home wiring is designed to have a neutral-ground reference so there's no point having actual line isolation in this circumstance. Perhaps you are thinking of a different circumstance? Like an RV or Boat or something like that? In anycase, if you want isolation, then you either don't use the AC input at all or you can put a 1:1 transformer in-line with it... but then what do you do with the home's ground reference pray tell? For safety you can add a GFCI or AFCI or something like that. Isolation is far more useful for power supplies and DC circuits than it is for home wiring (in the US that is)... there are just too many ways to couple a common reference through the actual ground. -Matt
@@JohnBaker3000 I don't need to learn. I have over 24 years of experience repairing inverters at the component level. High frequency, transformerless inverters are junk.
I need 240v, so I would need two of these. Do you recommend this at $800 for two or eg4 6000xp at $1,400? The benefits of the eg4 are that breakers are included and only having one unit.
Nice review thamks, just a point all of the inefficiencies of this device makes low noise and Heat. My point is put this unit where required and need heat❤
Yes, they are all inverter-chargers designed to operate with batteries. So there is typically one or two AC inputs (GRID, GENerator), BATery terminals (bidirectional), SOLAR panel inputs, and an AC output. However, there are severe limitations to all-in-ones. For example, most cannot accept power on the AC input AND charge from the solar at the same time. They are also not very efficient and the inverter output tends to have high idle power consumption. Of all the low and medium-end brands, only the Victron Multiplus-II's (which are basic inverter-chargers without direct solar inputs) are really robust, with low idle power consumption, an LF (really a LF/HF hybrid) inverter, and a good well-honored warranty. -Mat
Hey guys, I have a question. I’m relatively new to this and recently I bought two lithium ion batteries each has 3500 W of storage if I wire these batteries in parallel or in series does it change the 7000 W of storage that I think I have? Thanks for all of the information you give us it’s helping greatly. God bless the United States of America ❤️🔥🇺🇸
3500 W ? You mean 3500 Wh maybe? You didn't say anything about the voltage, amp-hour, or BMS amperage ratings for your batteries so it isn't really possible to answer your question.
@@junkerzn7312 I apologize I do mean what hours I have 212 V batteries lithium ion that are 3500 W hours apiece. I have them wired in parallel right now going to my inverter, but I ran across an issue with the input of the inverter and all that aside, I need the watt hours. I need all the hours I can get, but it never crossed my mind if I wire the batteries in series that I may lose a lot hours? And I did call the battery manufacturer and they told me it was OK to wire those two batteries and series, as you can tell this is new to me🇺🇸
@@theusconstitution1776 212V ? It can't be 212V unless its a dedicated home-storage system with its own custom inverter. Batteries are DC. We need the DC voltage, not the AC voltage output from the inverter. If its a dedicated home storage system with high-voltage DC batteries you have to read the manual for the system. In anycase, I'll try to answer the question generally. Whether you put batteries in series or parallel, the watt-hours add. The total energy storage available to you is the sum of the energy storage in each battery, regardless of how they are wired. In terms of the maximum power (watts) that you can run equipment with, however, there are major differences. The cabling can only carry so much current and there are current limits for the various devices. This generally means that higher-voltage systems can push-out a lot more power. A 12.8V 100A system can only sustain 1280W or so. A 51.2V 100A system has four times the storage capacity but, just as importantly, that 100A cabling can sustain over 5000W of continuous power output. -Matt
@@theusconstitution1776 Ahh ahh, I should have figured that out 🙂In anycase... just tie them in parallel, you double your storage. If you do more than 2 in parallel you will need to consider proper fusing for safety but just 2 batteries... put them in parallel and call it a day. Your amperage is limited by the lower of (a) Your battery cabling or (b) the sum of the amperage capabilities of the two batteries. In terms of putting batteries in series, that of course increases the voltage to the equipment so the equipment has to be able to deal with the new voltage. Charge controllers can often handle multiple voltages but inverters can usually only handle the voltage they were designed for. -Matt
I guess somebody woke up and threw the unit under the bus its now $749.00 That's a killer with a $250 jack-up. EG4 3000 is now $647.10. My disappointment was the lack of higher Solar input.
🛒 Rich Solar 3,000W Inverter:
• Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/products/3000-watt-48v-all-in-one-inverter?ref=TheSolarLab
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB101 for $101 Off Orders Over $2,000
🛒 Shop Complete Solar Kits & Components:
• Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=TheSolarLab
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB101 for $101 Off Orders Over $2,000
• Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=thesolarlab
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your ORder
☀ Calculate Solar Panel Cost for your House: www.solar-estimate.org/solar-calculator?aff=207512&cam=750
🔔 Subscribe to our UA-cam Channel: @TheSolarLab
Rich Solar has been making great products, for a long time! When it comes to their entry level, 3,000w inverter - at its current price on Shop Solar - this thing is a no brainer! Its a super quiet, efficient, and affordable option.. possibly better then EG4?
0:00 - Intro
0:52 - 60 Second Teardown
2:12 - Favourite Features
4:24 - What We Don't Like
6:46 - Install / Set Up
8:35 - Testing
11:50 - Final Thoughts
⚡ FOLLOW US:
instagram.com/thesolarlab/
www.tiktok.com/@thesolarlab
👨🏼💻 The Solar Lab:
www.thesolarlab.com
We maintain an affiliate relationship with some of the products reviewed, which means we get a small percentage of a sale if you click our links, at no cost to our viewers.
The code at shopsolarkits doesnt work. Tried it twice.
I'm not sure I consider Rich solar to be a premium brand, but I will say if you're going with a transformerless design, and you'll need 6000 watts or more, it would not make any sense at all to get this particular unit over the EG4 6000xp. Even at $499, by the time you purchase two of them, and all of the breakers/disconnects, you'd spend just as much but have a more complicated solution that won't accept nearly as much voltage on the PV side.
The limited input voltage is the deal breaker for me. My present array is 350 volts. That is a 25 amp input from the panel wiring. My array is 159 feet away, meaning line loss (and copper price) makes this not usable. With 350 volts, the current is only about 8.6 amps. This is manageable. Power loss is I SQUARE R. But, a nice unit for many.
I have been researching 48v inverters. Your review is so good and elaborate that I bought it. Thank you.
Nice! I have a 48v/50Ah EcoWorthy battery (to run an e-Propulsion boat motor) and I will pair this to get a good solar/AC charger. Great price!
Compatible with any batteries, such as EG4 LL Lithium Battery (V2) | 12V 400AH | Server Rack Battery?
I would guess that if you’re talented enough to be working with this all of this on a DIY basis YOU HAVE ALL THE TOOLS REQUIRED TO HOOK THIS UP.
And adversely if you don’t have all the tools to this up, you should not be fooling with this 😳 ❤️🔥❤️🔥🇺🇸
So why did the price triple?
Great video, thanks. New sub and I'm working my way through your video archive, good stuff.
Even cheaper right now (12MAY24) @$409- at the link you provided :)
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Hi. I’m a new subscriber. On these inverter videos you might want to mention the system voltage from the beginning. Not everyone runs a 12 volt setup. I watched it all and no mention of the volts.
Anyway I’m not too annoyed. I clicked on your link and it was a 48 v inverter and the price was actually $399 so I jumped on it.
Thanks for the great video. There's gotta be a better name for these devices, as they are not just an inverter, it's a charger and charge controller too, yeah?
Does it take 120vac & 240vac input to charge batteries too?
Is it MPPT or PWM?
Pure sine wave or square?
MPPT and Pure Sine Wave according to the website.
I didn't catch anything mentioned in the video about how much solar is needed to start charging a battery, is it the same as the EG4 that needs a minimum amount?
That's a great deal!!
Can that connect that with eco flow?
Bummed to find it’s a 48v. I’m running a 24 and the Quiet had me ready to buy! Any other recon’s for a quiet one? I have an MppSolar I love but loud fans 24/7
Does the word "rich" appear in quality and performance too?
So EG4 3kw 48v or Rich Solar 3kw 48v is recommended to purchase?
Is there a way to hook conduit or mc metal sheilded cable connector directly to the bottom of the frame to keep the wires protected?
Growatt Spf ????
For sure a re-branded Growatt
Nicw review.
Looks like a Voltronic Inverter 😮😔
You lost me on the voltage
That is a growatt
More like Growatt uses the same OEM that Rich, Renogy, and ten other brands use to make their cookie-cutter all-in-one's. So they are all equally lackluster (or outright bad). That's why they are getting so cheap... the market is saturated with these things. And also why they are basically worthless. You can tell how old the design is by looking at the idle power.
Egs002 24 mosfet board and 6kw apc transformer, 120 240, it draws only 0.5a.
These are not efficient.
And the egs002 will push 200a with 52v probably 300a if tuned properly.
Man...!!! That's just a relabelled Growatt...!!! C'mon...!!!!
Then that's good
This type of inverter will never be able to do what low frequency inverters, with massive transformers can do. Slap inductive loads on these, and try to start compressors and you will see their limits.
This comment is for the English language which is being butchered by native English speakers, and we are teaching foreigners improper grammar...for the love of piss...'then' is a point in time, 'than' is a comparison. Your caption uses the word 'then', when it should be 'than'. YES...it matters!
Your caption should read - "BETTER THAN EG4?"
Same cookie-cutter all-in-one that half a dozen other brands. They are all made by the same Chinese OEM... you can tell because all the specs are almost exactly the same. They are on sale because there is an over-supply of cheap, lack-luster all-in-one's on the market now.
Idle consumption is fairly typical for these cheap all-in-one's, and its unfortunate because ~46W is a lot of power to waste. An immense amount of power... 1100Wh/day. Over 200W worth of solar panels on a good day, wasted. To be honest, it makes the units almost useless since they are targeting small systems where every watt-hour is precious. Combine that with the limited voltage input for the solar and what you really have there is just a glorified battery charger and low-end UPS for AC mains, and not a whole lot else.
Nut-and-bolt battery connections are exactly what you want for any battery connection. The shove-in style connectors are fine for relatively low amperages, but not if you are pushing 80A. You absolutely want nut-and-bolt, always. You ever see a push-in for that kind of amperage, you run away as fast as you can.
Air filters? Good god, no. That's dangerous. You absolutely never want to have air filters in power electronics like this. If they ever get clogged up, the thing will catch fire. Don't mount it anywhere sawdust is flying about, that's just asking for a fire (air filter or not).
If it weren't for the idle consumption these things would actually be useful. But that idle consumption will crater your battery and in larger configurations you don't want to use a unit this cheap anyway, so it really has no niche to fit into. Not even as a UPS.
If looking to do a system like this seriously, look at the Victron Multiplus-II 48V 3kW or 5kW ... those are actually useful and the only difference is that they don't have a built-in charge controller. So buy a little Victron 100/20 smart-solar charge controller and a Multiplus-II and call it a day. Extremely low idle power consumption, proper float and bulk algorithm, and logic that actually works well.
-Matt
It wouldn't catch on fire if it had clogged filters. It has temp sensors that would turn the unit off when overheated.
@@JohnnyThomas-ps6mp This is not correct. A Victron multiplus has far, FAR lower idle consumption. A Multiplus-II 48/3K idles at 12W in normal inverter mode (ECO mode not activated). All of Victron's multiplus units have very low idle consumption... they are best-in-class.
-Matt
The victron setup is far more costly, so the comparison makes no sense when this video is geared toward a solid affordable system. If money is no issue then yeah, Victron would be the way to go.
@@SettledOutWestOG This isn't correct. Victron has tons of reasonably-priced gear, including inverters. They aren't bottom of the barrel in terms of up-front cost, but the Victron equipment is far, far more robust than those cookie-cutter units. Victron's stuff will last a lot longer, the warranties are solid, and the equipment is a lot less likely to burn-down your home or RV.
You can buy a cheap all-in-one. And then have to buy another one a few years later. And then buy another one a few years later... all the while getting lack-luster performance and poor efficiencies that generate more heat and require you to beef up your solar to compensate.
Idle consumption is a huge problem with these cheap all-in-one's. The idle consumption alone is equivlent to piddling away 250W worth of solar panels in full sun JUST to keep the inverter running, never mind actually running any equipment.
See the problem?
-Matt
@junkerzn7312 then you go buy what you find 'reasonably priced' while I pick up this affordable unit, then pick up another for a fraction of what I'd get at victron for a 6000w inverter setup. Clean it up any way you want, trashing this and anyone that doesn't have victron money won't change the fact that it makes zero sense to compare the two.
Neither one of these high frequency inverters have an isolation transformer which is necessary for safety and performance. So I wouldn't buy either one of them. Junk.
So do you have any device that is this cheap and safe as you mentioned? I think because of the very cheap price of those two devices, safety is essential. So is there any additional way to fix it? I thought having fuses would be enough.
No grid-tied all-in-one or similar unit will ever be isolated from the AC input. They might have LF inverters in them, but home wiring is designed to have a neutral-ground reference so there's no point having actual line isolation in this circumstance.
Perhaps you are thinking of a different circumstance? Like an RV or Boat or something like that?
In anycase, if you want isolation, then you either don't use the AC input at all or you can put a 1:1 transformer in-line with it... but then what do you do with the home's ground reference pray tell?
For safety you can add a GFCI or AFCI or something like that. Isolation is far more useful for power supplies and DC circuits than it is for home wiring (in the US that is)... there are just too many ways to couple a common reference through the actual ground.
-Matt
I used to also think that. Keep learning! You will change your mind about HF transformerless.
@@JohnBaker3000 I don't need to learn. I have over 24 years of experience repairing inverters at the component level. High frequency, transformerless inverters are junk.
@@quickquote1568 So Sol-Ark HF transformerless inverters are junk? 🤣
I need 240v, so I would need two of these. Do you recommend this at $800 for two or eg4 6000xp at $1,400? The benefits of the eg4 are that breakers are included and only having one unit.
Low pv input voltage on this unit..6000xp is the way to go IMO.
Nice review thamks, just a point all of the inefficiencies of this device makes low noise and Heat. My point is put this unit where required and need heat❤
Rich solar but not for the rich
Hello bro I want to buy one where can I get it
Oh no... 😬 Better than...
Do these small All-in-One inverters ever have regulated DC output? Useful for RV gadgets.
Yes, they are all inverter-chargers designed to operate with batteries. So there is typically one or two AC inputs (GRID, GENerator), BATery terminals (bidirectional), SOLAR panel inputs, and an AC output.
However, there are severe limitations to all-in-ones. For example, most cannot accept power on the AC input AND charge from the solar at the same time.
They are also not very efficient and the inverter output tends to have high idle power consumption.
Of all the low and medium-end brands, only the Victron Multiplus-II's (which are basic inverter-chargers without direct solar inputs) are really robust, with low idle power consumption, an LF (really a LF/HF hybrid) inverter, and a good well-honored warranty.
-Mat
Hey guys, I have a question. I’m relatively new to this and recently I bought two lithium ion batteries each has 3500 W of storage if I wire these batteries in parallel or in series does it change the 7000 W of storage that I think I have? Thanks for all of the information you give us it’s helping greatly.
God bless the United States of America ❤️🔥🇺🇸
3500 W ? You mean 3500 Wh maybe? You didn't say anything about the voltage, amp-hour, or BMS amperage ratings for your batteries so it isn't really possible to answer your question.
@@junkerzn7312 I apologize I do mean what hours I have 212 V batteries lithium ion that are 3500 W hours apiece. I have them wired in parallel right now going to my inverter, but I ran across an issue with the input of the inverter and all that aside, I need the watt hours. I need all the hours I can get, but it never crossed my mind if I wire the batteries in series that I may lose a lot hours? And I did call the battery manufacturer and they told me it was OK to wire those two batteries and series, as you can tell this is new to me🇺🇸
@@theusconstitution1776 212V ? It can't be 212V unless its a dedicated home-storage system with its own custom inverter. Batteries are DC. We need the DC voltage, not the AC voltage output from the inverter. If its a dedicated home storage system with high-voltage DC batteries you have to read the manual for the system.
In anycase, I'll try to answer the question generally.
Whether you put batteries in series or parallel, the watt-hours add. The total energy storage available to you is the sum of the energy storage in each battery, regardless of how they are wired.
In terms of the maximum power (watts) that you can run equipment with, however, there are major differences. The cabling can only carry so much current and there are current limits for the various devices.
This generally means that higher-voltage systems can push-out a lot more power. A 12.8V 100A system can only sustain 1280W or so. A 51.2V 100A system has four times the storage capacity but, just as importantly, that 100A cabling can sustain over 5000W of continuous power output.
-Matt
2 12volt batteries
@@theusconstitution1776 Ahh ahh, I should have figured that out 🙂In anycase... just tie them in parallel, you double your storage. If you do more than 2 in parallel you will need to consider proper fusing for safety but just 2 batteries... put them in parallel and call it a day. Your amperage is limited by the lower of (a) Your battery cabling or (b) the sum of the amperage capabilities of the two batteries.
In terms of putting batteries in series, that of course increases the voltage to the equipment so the equipment has to be able to deal with the new voltage. Charge controllers can often handle multiple voltages but inverters can usually only handle the voltage they were designed for.
-Matt
This is garbage compared to the new eg4’s
Which EG4 is that? just curious
I guess somebody woke up and threw the unit under the bus its now $749.00 That's a killer with a $250 jack-up. EG4 3000 is now $647.10. My disappointment was the lack of higher Solar input.
How many amps are you getting and running with 2000watts from solar??
guess this is the business you where talking about on your car channel good luck Robbie
car channel?
@@xBINARYGODx he has 2 car channels
Thank you🙏🏼 excited to get this going, and come back and make some car videos for fun again!
Hi, I'm new subscriber. What is the use of the ac input. As i know that the unit is an inverter in combination with batteries..
lol better than EG4….I’d say even Biden is better than EG4. Eg4 should be your last resort. I’d even get Growatt before eg4
WHAT IS your experience with EG4?
It is 399.00 now