Thanks for the video and the show of knowledge I enjoy watching other techs because it doesn't matter how long I've done it how many times ive done it watching someone else will show different ways to do something and sometimes their way might be easier than my way keep them coming
I ohmed a new one out a few weeks ago and it was 82. The one I replaced was at 135. I had to replace the whole burner plate because it has 3 additional holes in it from other companies running new screws in after breaking em. I use antiseize any time I replace em.
Just worked on 2 of these yesterday for the first time. We had to run stat wires and add the trane cti board because we were having issues with the original trane communication stats. Tech support told us they don't support units past 2 generations. This unit was made In 95 I believe. Replaced the hsi the new one was 90 ohms . Wish I knew more about tranes we got a few contracts of the newer MUA and rtus, some Intelipaks. I like the techy side of them as long as it's understandable
The old comm 3 stuff can be tricky, if that's what you got. Knowing the exact operation and common sense will help you locate many problems. When it comes to controls, not many have access. Once you get used to Trane, they aren't so bad to work on. Read the IOM you will learn a lot.
It kind of sucks, but when I encounter broken off screws on those igniters I normally just run a short 1/4 inch head self tapping sheet metal screw right below it and bend the bracket slightly so it holds the igniter in tightly. Normally that along with a new gasket seems to help.
Fun fact. Trane has a service bulletin out that specifies that the gas pressure going INTO the valve...the source pressure, should be 7.0 inWC. The label gives a range of pressures, but I have found that the 7 inches makes these behave.
Interesting, I didn't know that. Had an issue years ago. One unit would randomly have ignition failure showing on BAS. When you would get there, it would be heating. Eventually, we stopped it by increasing the inlet pressure. It was on the end of the line and randomly wouldn't fire if certain other units were running as well. Thanks, Art!
@@EverythingHVACR You're welcome... and of course, it could be more difficult to change that inlet pressure when you're running a low pressure system with no regulator, then you have to bump up the entire line pressure, and hope that it's going to work out OK....
I had one of these units that I dialed gas pressure in on a few years ago. Haven’t had any issues til recently. My gas pressure was basically identical to yours before ignition. Within range to say the least. When gas valve gets power, burner never lights. Negative gas pressure stays around -2.90. Got power to and amp draw on igniter and have 24v to gas valve. Called tech support and they condemned the valve after telling me to adjust the manifold pressure before ignition. Not sure why that would be a problem at -2.9. Any ideas?
Gas pressure should be -0.2, you will read a negative pressure of around 2-3 with just the combustion motor running so the valve could be a problem. Smell for gas on the outlet side, if you have gas and no ignition you will have to disassemble further. Igniter could not be lighting well enough, ohms cold should be under 100. There is also a screen just inside of the combustion motor where it bolts to the unit. The screen can get plugged with debris and cause issues. Assure you maintain inlet gas pressure when fired or there could be a regulator problem
Stuff like that I keep the liquid steel on my van the epoxy putty stuff I'll plug the hole use the heat gun to make it set and drill and tap stuff like it works good I wouldn't use it on a car or something with alot of torque
I ran in to that issue today. The 2 flashes is cause cause the other leg of power of the inducer is bring by the igniter. 2 flashes - Under Voltage - Should have 208-230V from heat transformer. But is actully the igniter cuting the power to the inducer. I hope my comment make sense
Thanks Ryan. On residential furnaces they can actually be different voltages, I would think most the timing is in the board, but you definitely need the correct parts or they may not work right
One tricked me yesterday the igniter would lit up behind the plate I couldn't see it glow and gas valve clicks but it won't turn on the burner after I replaced the gas valve found that igniter was not strong enough to light it up even though it was glowing. Now I have other issues that after the burners run for 1 minute everything shuts down including the inducer motor and ignition board goes steady on Light. I don't know what's causing it
:D :D "2018 seems like yesterday" ::D :D Time will just accelerate away from you here on in. Today for you 2018 seems like yesterday, come the end of the year you'll swear "I just looked at this last month" - then you look at your notebooks.....2003...... WTH?? Our perception of time passing changes the longer we survive to breathe another day. The longer you live, the faster time appears to pass. My theory is it's our memories only bother to store the details of notable events and just compress the uneventful days into a huge pile of "all uneventful days just like this one, all largely the same". Someone calls to ask about a routine sensor fault you attended and repaired 6 months ago, no memory of even being there - notebook says went in, replaced sensor, all OK. Someone calls to ask about a really hard to track down multi-cause fault that took 3 days to solve you attended 6 years ago - remember every detail, every meter reading, the colour of the shift manager's blouse etc. No need for a notebook, it's still fresh in mind. Weird. Can't trust your own mind :D
@@EverythingHVACR Meh, it's just my theory, there are many like it but this one is mine :D Do you remember the last day every stoplight you drove through was on green and you just breezed on through? Or do you remember this morning when you headed out to work and for 3 hours driving every stoplight you came upon turned red just as you got to it and you cussed at life? Which of those will you remember in detail next month? I'd suggest neither, it'll just get filed into good day / bad day bins and junked after a while. I'm preaching to the choir though.
Good little service call ... Thx for posting ...
Thanks Eddy
Trying to keep old equipment going is a task in its self 👍👍👍
Yessir, Thanks John
From Trane i was told 75 ohms on the HSI. The ignition control board has the lockouts written on it i believe. Great video as always Steve
I heard similar, I looked and didn't see them on the board, but I think it's the age, you're right, I've seen them on the boards before. Thanks Jason
Thanks for the video and the show of knowledge I enjoy watching other techs because it doesn't matter how long I've done it how many times ive done it watching someone else will show different ways to do something and sometimes their way might be easier than my way keep them coming
Thanks, Donald. I agree. I pick up on all kinds of things watching other people.
I ohmed a new one out a few weeks ago and it was 82. The one I replaced was at 135. I had to replace the whole burner plate because it has 3 additional holes in it from other companies running new screws in after breaking em. I use antiseize any time I replace em.
Thanks adam
Good video Steve.
Thanks Ryan
Thanks for sharing. I have only seen one of those
Thanks, Curtis. There are a lot of these out there.
Just worked on 2 of these yesterday for the first time. We had to run stat wires and add the trane cti board because we were having issues with the original trane communication stats. Tech support told us they don't support units past 2 generations. This unit was made In 95 I believe. Replaced the hsi the new one was 90 ohms . Wish I knew more about tranes we got a few contracts of the newer MUA and rtus, some Intelipaks. I like the techy side of them as long as it's understandable
The old comm 3 stuff can be tricky, if that's what you got. Knowing the exact operation and common sense will help you locate many problems. When it comes to controls, not many have access. Once you get used to Trane, they aren't so bad to work on. Read the IOM you will learn a lot.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching ZE
Good troubleshooting steve
Thanks Victor
Great work
Thanks Stephen
Nice work Steve.
Thanks Steven
It kind of sucks, but when I encounter broken off screws on those igniters I normally just run a short 1/4 inch head self tapping sheet metal screw right below it and bend the bracket slightly so it holds the igniter in tightly. Normally that along with a new gasket seems to help.
Yeah, as long as you're secured with the gasket, it'll be fine. I just used a larger screw in the same hole. Thanks Cameron
Gonna watch now!
Fun fact. Trane has a service bulletin out that specifies that the gas pressure going INTO the valve...the source pressure, should be 7.0 inWC. The label gives a range of pressures, but I have found that the 7 inches makes these behave.
Interesting, I didn't know that. Had an issue years ago. One unit would randomly have ignition failure showing on BAS. When you would get there, it would be heating. Eventually, we stopped it by increasing the inlet pressure. It was on the end of the line and randomly wouldn't fire if certain other units were running as well. Thanks, Art!
@@EverythingHVACR You're welcome... and of course, it could be more difficult to change that inlet pressure when you're running a low pressure system with no regulator, then you have to bump up the entire line pressure, and hope that it's going to work out OK....
I had one of these units that I dialed gas pressure in on a few years ago. Haven’t had any issues til recently. My gas pressure was basically identical to yours before ignition. Within range to say the least. When gas valve gets power, burner never lights. Negative gas pressure stays around -2.90. Got power to and amp draw on igniter and have 24v to gas valve. Called tech support and they condemned the valve after telling me to adjust the manifold pressure before ignition. Not sure why that would be a problem at -2.9. Any ideas?
Gas pressure should be -0.2, you will read a negative pressure of around 2-3 with just the combustion motor running so the valve could be a problem. Smell for gas on the outlet side, if you have gas and no ignition you will have to disassemble further. Igniter could not be lighting well enough, ohms cold should be under 100. There is also a screen just inside of the combustion motor where it bolts to the unit. The screen can get plugged with debris and cause issues. Assure you maintain inlet gas pressure when fired or there could be a regulator problem
@ thanks for the detailed reply man!
No problem, I hope it helps. Let me know how it goes.
My go to on that screw situation is cross threads are better than no threads ! Send it
😆 Thanks c_young. As long as it's secured, it'll be alright. Send everything
@@EverythingHVACR bingo bango
I'm not a big fan of those type units but got to do what you get
Yessir, Thanks Donald. These burners are pretty reliable
Stuff like that I keep the liquid steel on my van the epoxy putty stuff I'll plug the hole use the heat gun to make it set and drill and tap stuff like it works good I wouldn't use it on a car or something with alot of torque
Interesting, i hadn'tconsideredthat. thanks Donald
I ran in to that issue today. The 2 flashes is cause cause the other leg of power of the inducer is bring by the igniter. 2 flashes - Under Voltage - Should have 208-230V from heat transformer. But is actully the igniter cuting the power to the inducer. I hope my comment make sense
I have seen ignitors not fire on the first time, but fire on the second time because someone put a wrong ignitor in with a different heat up time. l
Thanks Ryan. On residential furnaces they can actually be different voltages, I would think most the timing is in the board, but you definitely need the correct parts or they may not work right
One tricked me yesterday the igniter would lit up behind the plate I couldn't see it glow and gas valve clicks but it won't turn on the burner after I replaced the gas valve found that igniter was not strong enough to light it up even though it was glowing. Now I have other issues that after the burners run for 1 minute everything shuts down including the inducer motor and ignition board goes steady on Light. I don't know what's causing it
Hmm. Sounds like maybe you're losing a heat call, If light goes steady 🤔 that is unusual
@Everything HVACR does high limit report to rtrm or ignition board?
I believe the limit ties in to the ignition board. Ignition board communicates with the RTRM
@Everything HVACR if that's the case then I have R to W1 jumped it's possible RTRM failing to send signal. Next yime I will chrck led on RTRM
I would order a board it will definitely go bad
Yes, the board could have issues, but still running today, I gave them the option.
Those burner plates suck every one of those trane ignitor hold downs breaks like that.
Yes, they do. It's the flaw in these burners. Otherwise, their pretty reliable. Thanks Matthew
I usually put anti seize on them bolts when ever i have to change them
That's a good idea, thanks martin
:D :D "2018 seems like yesterday" ::D :D
Time will just accelerate away from you here on in. Today for you 2018 seems like yesterday, come the end of the year you'll swear "I just looked at this last month" - then you look at your notebooks.....2003...... WTH?? Our perception of time passing changes the longer we survive to breathe another day.
The longer you live, the faster time appears to pass.
My theory is it's our memories only bother to store the details of notable events and just compress the uneventful days into a huge pile of "all uneventful days just like this one, all largely the same".
Someone calls to ask about a routine sensor fault you attended and repaired 6 months ago, no memory of even being there - notebook says went in, replaced sensor, all OK.
Someone calls to ask about a really hard to track down multi-cause fault that took 3 days to solve you attended 6 years ago - remember every detail, every meter reading, the colour of the shift manager's blouse etc. No need for a notebook, it's still fresh in mind.
Weird. Can't trust your own mind :D
Well said, Chilly Brit, Thanks
@@EverythingHVACR Meh, it's just my theory, there are many like it but this one is mine :D
Do you remember the last day every stoplight you drove through was on green and you just breezed on through? Or do you remember this morning when you headed out to work and for 3 hours driving every stoplight you came upon turned red just as you got to it and you cussed at life?
Which of those will you remember in detail next month? I'd suggest neither, it'll just get filed into good day / bad day bins and junked after a while.
I'm preaching to the choir though.
I like the philosophical words. makes you think 🤔