Slow Pull of a Three Point Equalized 8 mm Accessory Cord Anchor
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- While pull testing anchors we broke some old equipment to see how strong they would be. Shown here is a three point equalized anchor with an overhand focal knot tied from 8 mm accessory cord. In our first pull, we tied the anchor to a carabiner, which failed at 27.9 kN (6263 lbs). A video of that test is posted here:
( • Carabiner Failure )
The test shown here is the next pull with the anchor connected to a screw link.
This anchor broke at 38.1 kN (8574 lbs) on the second pull when clipped to a screw link.
For additional research and data on climbing and rescue gear and system strength, see the SARRR web page at: sarrr.weebly.com/
Thanks for showing us the amount of weight applied to break it.
dmcoxfree Yea I don’t think anyone’s applying 8500lbs of force during a fall.
Do you think it fails there because of the knots pinching ? I thought for sure it would fail at the fishermans knot. Guess I should go look at the info you posted huh ?
on the left side of the overhand knot, there are two strands sharing the load, on the right side (where the fisherman's knot is), there are three (double) strands sharing the load. so on the fisherman, there is 1/6 (1044lbs) less force than on the strand who failed first.
I'm sure it failed merely because of the amount of weight it was holding back.
Does it reduce if your using a longer cord ?
For example you’ve wrapped the two loops around 2 huge boulders
Next time try a Kevlar cordalette