I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
Lots of interesting stuff at the show with Matt “Mock-Up” Risinger. I appreciate a builder who would care enough to not leave a mess behind. After contractors installed new gutters on the hacienda, I spent several hours picking up several pounds of metal with a magnet in the landscape beds.
I think its awesome that you are promoting metal roof systems! I work at a finishing hot dipped galvanizing line that produces roofing metal and trust me their is alot that goes into it that makes metal superior to asphalt! thanks for the support!
It seems like every video recently has been a few days behind exactly what I'm doing, or buying! Thanks Matt, its nice to feel reassured that I've made the right choices!
Been using though the roof for years and it is by far the best brushable or caulk sealer ever made. Used it for many things that it’s not even made for.
Actually @ 10:45 "TheCatchAll", we show that we care by laying down tarps and leaning 1/2" CDX plywood under the eaves to protect the siding and plants. Also we protect the gutters with 2 by 6 toe-boards with roof-jacks and would never subject them to the collisions shown in the video. That fabric is going to cave in on the plants rather quickly. Even if the project does not require plywood installation, a good roofer will have plenty on hand and simply use it on the next job. This gear would be good for major moss removal and gutter cleaning but not as strong as plywood and tarps for tear-off.
Dont know if you have ever done this or not. When you can not get the plywood up to the house because of bushes use a extension ladder and screw blocks to the back of your plywood. Then hang the plywood by the blocks in the ladder rungs. It is much faster to set up than building a 2x4 support behind the plywood. You can even screw so 2x4 to the plywood sides as guides if you wanted.
I miss going to trade shows and really like seeing the new products I wish I had when I was still out in the field doing this everyday. Nice vid, Matt! Keep 'em coming.
Metal Roofing.. In Australia domestic roofs are "all" either clay/concrete tile, or "corrugated" - different styles- sheet metal (laid from ridge to eave). Though for some reason (cost) we don't typically sheathe the rafters before lating the roofing. Just lay "sarking" or glasswool blanket and roof over that.
i got one of the hagga sweeper, yeah 2k but it does a pretty quick job of sweeping the subfloor. sweeps up water pretty good too but fills fast. it gets the fine dust pretty good all the way up too small 2x4 cut offs, about as big as 6"
Thought I'd throw my two cents in. Pros for metal roofs are they are very durable and will last longer than asphalt or cedar shakes. I believe most suppliers come with a 50 year warranty vs. your typical asphalt shingle at anywhere from 20 to 45 year depending on the grade. (Note: I'll believe it when I see it that any shingle would last 45 years). Metal roofs, when done nicely, are very sharp looking and can add an architectural touch to your home. If a leak was to happen it can theoretically only occur at the ridge, hip or anywhere there is a roof to wall. So pinpointing it is much easier than with a shingle where it could be anywhere in the field. Not a huge bonus as any leak is bad but it does simplify. They come in virtually any color and come in wide or narrow panels, striated or smooth along with different types of seams depending on the pitch of the roof or clients liking. They are also fast to install as you can cover alot of square footage with one panel. Most roofing contractors will measure the roof first and order the panels pre cut. They are the lightest weight roofing product too so for homes that are under framed they will lighten the load. Bottom line is they last a long time. The only other options that will last longer are slate or tile but that depends on your climate. For example tile or clay in the Arizona sun would be better but metal will be cheaper than slate or tile. The cons are that you must have an experienced roofer who has done metal roofs before do the install. They look great when done right but look horrible when not. You can't hide imperfections like you can with asphalt shingles. Also Oil Canning can be an issue. The summer sun can be unfriendly to metal roofs. The striated version helps to correct this but it's not always the look the client is going for. If you want the flat panel I suggest going with a 24 or 25 gauge as anything less will be susceptible to oil canning and once again make sure whoever is installing it has experience. How it is fastened will lessen the chance for oil canning. Also never leave unfastened panels on the roof in the sun. They need to go from the crate to being fastened immediately. If left out they will oil can. Also go with a reputable brand that warranties the color. You dont want a cheap one that will fade. Apologies for the long reply ;)
Ten years ago I needed a new roof, and I went with a steel roof for a few reasons: 1) Ease of installation. I was able to do the job myself with the help of a couple of cousins. The supplier I dealt with was able to custom cut each of the pieces to fit, and after preparing the roof sheathing and underlayment, the four-foot-wide sheets went up quickly. 2) Energy efficiency. The steel roofing I installed was sprayed with paint that is reflective to infrared light, which accounts for about half of the heat energy absorbed by most roofs. Steel roofing sprayed with these special paints can be certified as EPA rated energy efficient roofs and make it easier to cool your house in the summer. It's cheaper to own and more environmentally friendly this way. 3) Weight. A steel roof is significantly lighter than asphalt roofs and places less stress on rafters, etc. Sometimes it can be installed directly over existing asphalt shingle roofs because it's so light (not in my case, though. I already had two shingle layers, so I had to strip it all off anyway). 4) Wind, hail and temperature resistance. When properly installed, steel roofs can withstand up to 150 MPH winds and can survive hailstorms that would absolutely destroy ordinary asphalt roofs. And I live in a Western state. What kills most roofs here isn't the heat or the cold; it's the temperature extremes. The summers get really hot, then it gets down to around zero every winter. The back and forth switch off absolutely destroys shingles, even those with 40 year warranties. Steel is unaffected by this. 5) Seamlessness. The steel roofing I installed, as I mentioned, was custom cut. The supplier delivered it directly to my home on the back of a big rig, because it was cut so that single sheets would go from the eaves all the way up to the ridge beam in a single sheet. There's no way for water to get through except around roof breathers, etc., and those just need to be properly sealed the way you normally would for a conventional roof. It's a much more watertight system than an asphalt roof where a bad storm can tear individual shingles and cause leaks. 6) Fireproofing. 4th of July and New Years Eve people are big fans of fireworks. That periodically will cause a roof to catch fire when they land on a rooftop. A steel roof is significantly more fire resistant than asphalt. 7) Longevity. Most steel roofs last on average 50 years, and often up to 70 years with little to no maintenance. The next time my roof needs replacing, I'll be dead and it will be somebody else's problem. I don't want to be looking retirement in the face and suddenly need a $25,000 roof replacement. 8) Costs. The price of a steel roof steel had gone down a lot when I did mine, and it was in the same ballpark as an asphalt roof for a much better product. Maybe it's gone up since then, but given that I haven't had to touch that roof in a decade now, I would say that even if it was significantly more expensive than asphalt shingles, it would be worth it to go with steel because I literally never have to worry about it again. 9) Recyclability. A steel roof, if you ever have to replace it in your lifetime, is 100 percent recyclable. That makes it more environmentally friendly on two counts. 10) Attractiveness. I did the installation on this roof myself, and it looks fantastic. My wife chose a chocolate brown color that goes great with the brick exterior of our house, but there are lots of colors available, including white, green, and red (think the red of a tile roof). There are also lots of different options available. I've seen steel roofing that's stamped to look like Spanish tile! The biggest question most people ask is how loud the roof is in a rainstorm. The answer: it isn't. If you have solid sheathing and an insulated attic, you'll only hear it during the hardest of rainstorms, when you'd already be hearing a lour roaring anyway. My steel roof has been a dream to own. It looks good, lasts for decades longer than the best shingles, wasn't significantly more in price, and never has to be fiddled with. I've never regretted putting on a steel roof. And even though my wife was skeptical at first, she's a huge fan too.
@@MichaelDavis-cy4ok we don't have asphalt rooves on houses in Australia. Mainly terracotta or concrete tile, or steel. There are some stainless steel, copper, etc, but most rooves are steel which comes prepainted. Goes on easily ( I've replaced half of the roof on our previous house by myself), guaranteed for 25 years, but likely to last more than twice that long. We install roofing blanket to cut down on the noise. The lightest colours reduce the under roof temperature quite drastically. I can't even comprehend usuing asphalt!
@@bigm383 They've used shingles here in the US that are either heavy paper coated with asphalt or that are fiberglass mesh coated with asphalt for many decades here in the US because it's historically been cheaper than steel, and it does the job pretty well if it's installed properly. But you're right, steel outclasses it so far in quality and durability alone that I wouldn't even consider using asphalt shingles any more. The only thing that beats steel is copper, which is far more expensive, and slate tile which can last for 200 years or more, but which is insanely heavy and needs a special heavy duty support structure. With my roof, I had just gotten back from a combat tour in Afghanistan. To pay someone to do the roof would have been $25,000 US, which was more than half my annual salary at the time, and I didn't want to take out a loan. So I ended up spending about $5,000 US on materials. I got extravagant and used the highest quality ice and water shield on all the eaves, ridges and valleys rather than just ordinary tar paper underlayment, because I live where it gets sweltering hot in summer and gets very wet, heavy snow in the winter. I've never had to mess with it since, and probably never will. Steel is king!
@@MichaelDavis-cy4ok Thanks for your reply. We have a few slate roofed houses in Australia that are very old. Usually imported from Britain. We can get copper and SS. There's also a prouct that is copper coated SS, but to expensive for mere mortals. Good on you for doing your own roof and doing a job that will last.
we got the stinger pneumatic stapler last year. I like it but I find it tends to waste the caps. Sometimes the caps don't advance properly or even it spits out more than one cap at a time which can be annoying. It has pretty much replaced what we used to use for installing roofing paper and vapor barrier.
I’ve been using Through the Roof for six years, a little expensive and amazingly good at solving waterproofing problems. Great for coating rake edges of plywood decking before Ice &Water adhered underlayment and lap joints. I also coated my pipe penetration boot joints to pipe with it, flashing lap edges, all holes from removed nails , etc. also comes in cans for brushed areas.
Cost is the biggest hindrance to a quality metal roof (standing seam) any roofer who’s been around already knows this. Convincing homeowners would be a better use of your time.
I was interested in seeing the latest and greatest in metal roofing, and how exactly to install it. step by step so I can do my own roof, or at least I know what should be done if I had it installed. Thank you for the video.
@@buildshow Are there metal roof systems with attractive, almost invisible ridge caps which resemble strip-ridges and mitred hip joints on real slate roofs?
That 'Catch All' product is basically 4 big almond nets with a bit of rubber sheeting attached. You could buy 50m x 20m almond nets for less than 200 euros. Couldn't believe how much he said that catch all was.
The only way a ceramic porcelain tile resists impacts is if it is 95% plus supported on the back. Which is why the proper laying of thinset on floors and walls is more than holding the tile in place. Where I live is hail country and there is no way that good roofers here recommend anything but Class IV high impact resistant asphalt shingles. Even in that category there is a huge range of quality and the cheaper class IV shingles don't hold up to our hail. We try to walk people away from metal every chance we get. Even the heavy stuff shows dings and if a hail strike happens directly on a seam the overlap will buckle enough that water can wick in between.
Had 3 leaks in my roof from those neoprene collars. What happened is the PVC vent pipe is cut jagged and when the collar is put on it gets torn on the jagged edges. Why not just put the plumbing vents at one location, essentially a chimney, even disguised as a chimney. No little leaks and much faster to re-roof since their are 7 plumbing vents to cut around like my house has.
Yeah, I combined several vent pipes when I remodeled my house. Do the math, and make sure you have the right size pipe, but there's no reason you need more than one. Also, a common trick is to use two neoprene boots on one pipe. Install both boots together like they are one boot, and the outer boot will be sacrificial. The sun won't touch the lower boot, and it will last longer than an asphalt roof. Or just use a traditional lead boot.
I put a circle of rubber roof with a hole a little smaller than the pipe over the boot. This keeps the sun off the boot. If this over lay fails in 20 years, then just replace it. @@onetwothree4148
thank you for teaching about american tecniques! U are so cool and clear in make us understand the inner beauty of carpenter contruction! I wish we have the same in my country. Thanks again from Italy!
Il problema in Italia e che dicono che sono case fatti come i lego Io sto in Canada da gia quasi 8 anni e sono carpentiere e ti posso garantire che non sono fatti come i lego, e vero che non sono come quelle italiane ma comunque sono ottime
What happens with that nail gun when you hit a stud? does it automatically adjust and increase the force to penetrate or do you have to readjust it manually? main reason why everyone uses hammers for roofing.
Soprema makes it. Its called unilay tourch on. Another option if you cant tourch is 90 pound its adheared but it is honestly garbage. Unilay is all on one and tourches directly to plywood just remember to do your eaves to code.
Hey Matt, I am a project manager for the nation's largest steel deck manufacturer. That's 1.5B deck, not pan (technically "cellular") deck. I know I'm being nit-picky to a guy in residential but the price difference between 1.5B and cellular is huge. Would hate to see someone get turned off to steel deck because they asked for the wrong product.
Traditional steel warehouses are rock ballast on rubber on insulation screwed with auger tip screws. OR TPO that gets microwave welded to those metal plates.
Metal roofs have their place certainly, however most insurance companies will have homeowners sign an aesthetic waiver on their policy if they install metal, for this reason metal may not be the right choice if your area receives hail. The F-Wave product (5.49 mark) would fair much better, light, easy to install and has a 5 year Class 4 hail warranty, labor and material! It also has a 15 year 130 mph wind warranty and a 15 year color fade warranty. If you need a new roof you should F it with F-Wave.
15 year fade warranty? It's basically an expensive asphalt shingle. Asphalt shingles look like crap to begin with, and Epdm doesn't last very long. I'd go with metal shingles at that rate
Matt, I'd love to hear why you prefer a metal roof to asphalt shingles. My experience living in both has shown otherwise. Do you have a video or article somewhere which explains the reasons for you preferences?
As a homeowner looking for a metal standing seam roof, I wish there were more contractors experienced in this practice. I've been looking for several months on Cape Cod, MA and to-date not found anyone savvy and local.
Try contacting flat roofing and building envelope companies the people you are looking for arent actual roofers. Its a different trade. ASM or architectual sheet Metal workers. Its a specialized trade and requires different skills. Most ASM guys work for flat roofing companies to do the metal work. They usually install standing seam through their metal division.
Hi Matt, I liked the Catchment system you showed. We had our barn re-roofed this past fall and the roofer didnt completly clean up the nails on the ground. One of our horses picked up a nail in their hoof. This was very bad news for the horse, us and the roofer. Our vet bills came to about $5K and I know the roofer lost all his profit on this one job due to not totaly cleaning up.
Concerning "The Catch All" system... There are actually trailers now that raise up to roof level and catch the debris. At 4 grand for this system, you're not talking about too much extra to just get a trailer and not have to pick all this crap up in the first place. You also wouldn't need to worry about protecting the house siding because the trash never even gets to the ground. The takeaway? If you don't mind picking up all the trash, and you don't mind you and your crew throwing out your backs, then get this system. If you would rather only handle the debris once then get a trailer. Just google it and you will find it.
If you don’t mind paying 35K for the Equipter trailer that raises up to the roof go ahead... 4K is a good down payment. For us most houses have bad yards that will not allow a driving trailer to get around. Rented one once for a job we could not get a dumpster to and it was great to carry debris to the dumpster 1/4 mile away.
Thanks for the video. Cool stuff. One question though. What is the draw or advantage of insulating on the outside of a steel roof or building? Seems like you need redundancy to keep weather from the insulating layer.?
Okay this might be a silly question, but on the catch all what would happen if a few singles with some nails still threw them fell. Would it shred the screening?
Im curious why more people don't use metal roofs? A friend of mine just built a house up in Idaho last year, when he built his roof he put corrugated galvanized steel panels on the roof, but instead of screwing them to the roof, he installed strips of metal flat bar that he screwed into the plywood, then he tack welded the steel sheets to the flat bar at the edges, then overlapped the next peace tack welding it to the next sheet. Then he went back and sprayed the entire roof with bed liner paint to seal the welds on the roof.
Matt, Can you explain or show me a link describing why metal roofing is better than asphalt? When I think of metal roofing I always think of Tuff-Rib with those stinking screws that always back out.
Metal roofing just lasts a lot longer than Asphalt. Consider that few young people are signing up to be roofers. I am sure in about 15 to 20 years, labor costs for replacing a roof will be a lot higher as Boomer contractors retire and don't get replaced.The only metal roof system for residential is standing seam. Don't let a contractor talk you into something else. Also choose a roofing provider that offers a long term warranty on the paint. If the warranty on the paint is only 5 or 10 years, you can bet its going to start cracking right after the warranty is expired. Remember a metal roof will expand & contract many time per day as the sun heats it. Every time a cloud passes by the roof will start to cool and contract, and then expand again after the cloud passes by. There is also condensation (will happen every night).That said a metal roof installed right will cost about 40% more & finding a good contractor that installs metal roof can be hard to find. Best to find a contractor that specializes in doing metal roofs only. the contractor that does mostly asphalt is very likely to make mistakes that cause problems.
I've tried to get an estimate for a Daltile Perennial Roof for 9 months without success. I suspect they've encountered technical, production, or financial problems.
norrisonian metal is going to leak eventually, and it’s a guessing game of where it comes in from, your really placing all your money on butyl tape, so make sure your contractor doesn’t go cheap when buying it. It’s literally the most important part of the system. If you live in a place that freezes, your chances of leaks just skyrocketed. Not to mention how easily damaged it can get from hail and rain is much louder. Paint starts to fade after 5 or so years also. They look clean if done right and work well at first, but the problems are inevitable and if you have to replace a panel in the middle of your roof... well, book your whole weekend. Imo they work great for commercial, industrial and ag.. residential no so much.
1tacomame Yea. That catch all looks like the material they use to cover trailers to keep the debris from flying off. I can’t imagine it will hold much weight before ripping.
I was wondering the same so I did a little research. Asphalt architectural shingles weigh 320-400 pounds per square. Matt said the ceramic shingles weigh 500-700 pounds per square.
With those rodenhouse plastic pegs to attach exterior foam insulation to concrete. Does anything else need to go over the foam? What about above ground? I am looking for options to insulate outside concrete basement below and above ground. I will have to do some digging for below.
For the outside it more practical to use Fiberglass insulation. Typically insects like carpenter ants, termites will tunnel through foam insulation. Alternatively you can purchase foam insulation with built in pesticide. Therma-start offer foam with a pesticide.For my project I only insulated below grade and left 12" to 18" insulated so that I keep an eye out for insects. Have insulation above grade can hide insect if the tunnel between the foundation and the insulation. If you really wanted to insulated all the way up, you can apply a stucco like mortar on the outside of the foam insulation. But this can leave you exposed to possible insect damage if the tunnel up into your rim boards.For my project we apply an asphalt sealer and the fiberglass panels was stuck on using the asphalt sealer as an adhesive. In the few places the insulation did stick well we used the a masonry nail gun with caps.
splashpit 100 years easy out of metal roof. Mates selling a 1850s house and original roof in ipswich Qld my last house was 1939 original roof ..no leaks just rough looking
Great video, however, warranties are a farce in the roofing industry. I have been screwed on every roof I have purchased. The warranty means noting ! And ..... the government does not care !
The material warranty is a selling point. In my area 3-tabs last about 10 years and the architects last about 15. Metal and tile are the only true 40 year roofs.
I have a question as an ammeter on roofing shingles. I noticed while re-shingling my roof that there was a strip of tar under a cellophane on the back of the shingle. Looking at it, it made sense to me that if I removed these cellophane strips, the hot Sun would melt that tar helping to glue the shingle down close to the un-nailed edge. (After seeing this, I thought about putting roof cement on the back of each of the three lead edge fins ... I know, overkill.) But I could find nothing mentioned about this strip on any installation instructions. So I called the manufacturer. He said no, this was something that was related only to the manufacture and they were not to be removed on install. He could not tell me what this had to do with the manufacture process. Anybody know the answer to this? Why is it needed in manufacture?
Yeah I used CertainTeed's fake slate on a small project a couple years ago. STAY AWAY. Buy real slate or go with metal shingles or something else. The fake slate was almost as expensive as the real thing, scratched very easily, and the rake cuts looked like cheap plastic no matter what you did to rough them up like slate. It looked OK, but I don't think that roof will look good in 50 years (with the stainless nails we used it should still be there though).
I asked a local contractor if they would do metal roofing around here and he said they would not do it because they had too many issues with them around here I do not know if it is because another contractor is doing shoddy work.
I'm a German Roofer with 30 years experience, the last 12 years in New Zealand and now I Love Metal Roofs!!!
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
Lots of interesting stuff at the show with Matt “Mock-Up” Risinger. I appreciate a builder who would care enough to not leave a mess behind. After contractors installed new gutters on the hacienda, I spent several hours picking up several pounds of metal with a magnet in the landscape beds.
I think its awesome that you are promoting metal roof systems! I work at a finishing hot dipped galvanizing line that produces roofing metal and trust me their is alot that goes into it that makes metal superior to asphalt! thanks for the support!
Absolutely. Been talking about metal roof benefits for years now
These trade show product spotlights are awesome! I could watch this stuff all day.
We love trade shows and we love doing them. So much creativity and drive in our market. Thanks for doing this!
It seems like every video recently has been a few days behind exactly what I'm doing, or buying!
Thanks Matt, its nice to feel reassured that I've made the right choices!
Excellent Kenneth. Appreciate the support
The catchall system is ok, but what I would like to see is contractors with good trailers that don't sprinkle roofing nails all the way to the dump!!!
You know your in for a heap of nails when the roofing contract parks his truck far away from your home!
You are right. We were picking up nails from our old house years later after the roofers left.
Been using though the roof for years and it is by far the best brushable or caulk sealer ever made. Used it for many things that it’s not even made for.
Appreciate the first hand experience
Actually @ 10:45 "TheCatchAll", we show that we care by laying down tarps and leaning 1/2" CDX plywood under the eaves to protect the siding and plants. Also we protect the gutters with 2 by 6 toe-boards with roof-jacks and would never subject them to the collisions shown in the video. That fabric is going to cave in on the plants rather quickly. Even if the project does not require plywood installation, a good roofer will have plenty on hand and simply use it on the next job. This gear would be good for major moss removal and gutter cleaning but not as strong as plywood and tarps for tear-off.
Dont know if you have ever done this or not. When you can not get the plywood up to the house because of bushes use a extension ladder and screw blocks to the back of your plywood. Then hang the plywood by the blocks in the ladder rungs. It is much faster to set up than building a 2x4 support behind the plywood. You can even screw so 2x4 to the plywood sides as guides if you wanted.
Not to Mention The Price $4000 ish WTH..?
Condensed but fully informative. Thanks. Please do other shows.
Thanks Matt for bringing these products to the forefront. Interesting
Love my metal roof... THANKS MATT... really love these 1-2-3 product videos.
I'm not a contractor or builder or even handy with tools. I have no idea why I watch your channel but it's fascinating. Good stuff.
I miss going to trade shows and really like seeing the new products I wish I had when I was still out in the field doing this everyday. Nice vid, Matt! Keep 'em coming.
Metal Roofing..
In Australia domestic roofs are "all" either clay/concrete tile, or "corrugated" - different styles- sheet metal (laid from ridge to eave).
Though for some reason (cost) we don't typically sheathe the rafters before lating the roofing. Just lay "sarking" or glasswool blanket and roof over that.
i got one of the hagga sweeper, yeah 2k but it does a pretty quick job of sweeping the subfloor. sweeps up water pretty good too but fills fast. it gets the fine dust pretty good all the way up too small 2x4 cut offs, about as big as 6"
Metal is only way to go! Easy, fast, durable will last 50+ years
matt you the man! I've been building for 17 years and you know whats up....from KC
Id like to see that talk about metal roofs. Why you like them. You prefer them over an asphalt roof? In every situation?
Thought I'd throw my two cents in. Pros for metal roofs are they are very durable and will last longer than asphalt or cedar shakes. I believe most suppliers come with a 50 year warranty vs. your typical asphalt shingle at anywhere from 20 to 45 year depending on the grade. (Note: I'll believe it when I see it that any shingle would last 45 years).
Metal roofs, when done nicely, are very sharp looking and can add an architectural touch to your home. If a leak was to happen it can theoretically only occur at the ridge, hip or anywhere there is a roof to wall. So pinpointing it is much easier than with a shingle where it could be anywhere in the field. Not a huge bonus as any leak is bad but it does simplify.
They come in virtually any color and come in wide or narrow panels, striated or smooth along with different types of seams depending on the pitch of the roof or clients liking. They are also fast to install as you can cover alot of square footage with one panel. Most roofing contractors will measure the roof first and order the panels pre cut. They are the lightest weight roofing product too so for homes that are under framed they will lighten the load. Bottom line is they last a long time. The only other options that will last longer are slate or tile but that depends on your climate. For example tile or clay in the Arizona sun would be better but metal will be cheaper than slate or tile.
The cons are that you must have an experienced roofer who has done metal roofs before do the install. They look great when done right but look horrible when not. You can't hide imperfections like you can with asphalt shingles. Also Oil Canning can be an issue. The summer sun can be unfriendly to metal roofs. The striated version helps to correct this but it's not always the look the client is going for. If you want the flat panel I suggest going with a 24 or 25 gauge as anything less will be susceptible to oil canning and once again make sure whoever is installing it has experience. How it is fastened will lessen the chance for oil canning. Also never leave unfastened panels on the roof in the sun. They need to go from the crate to being fastened immediately. If left out they will oil can. Also go with a reputable brand that warranties the color. You dont want a cheap one that will fade.
Apologies for the long reply ;)
Ten years ago I needed a new roof, and I went with a steel roof for a few reasons:
1) Ease of installation. I was able to do the job myself with the help of a couple of cousins. The supplier I dealt with was able to custom cut each of the pieces to fit, and after preparing the roof sheathing and underlayment, the four-foot-wide sheets went up quickly.
2) Energy efficiency. The steel roofing I installed was sprayed with paint that is reflective to infrared light, which accounts for about half of the heat energy absorbed by most roofs. Steel roofing sprayed with these special paints can be certified as EPA rated energy efficient roofs and make it easier to cool your house in the summer. It's cheaper to own and more environmentally friendly this way.
3) Weight. A steel roof is significantly lighter than asphalt roofs and places less stress on rafters, etc. Sometimes it can be installed directly over existing asphalt shingle roofs because it's so light (not in my case, though. I already had two shingle layers, so I had to strip it all off anyway).
4) Wind, hail and temperature resistance. When properly installed, steel roofs can withstand up to 150 MPH winds and can survive hailstorms that would absolutely destroy ordinary asphalt roofs. And I live in a Western state. What kills most roofs here isn't the heat or the cold; it's the temperature extremes. The summers get really hot, then it gets down to around zero every winter. The back and forth switch off absolutely destroys shingles, even those with 40 year warranties. Steel is unaffected by this.
5) Seamlessness. The steel roofing I installed, as I mentioned, was custom cut. The supplier delivered it directly to my home on the back of a big rig, because it was cut so that single sheets would go from the eaves all the way up to the ridge beam in a single sheet. There's no way for water to get through except around roof breathers, etc., and those just need to be properly sealed the way you normally would for a conventional roof. It's a much more watertight system than an asphalt roof where a bad storm can tear individual shingles and cause leaks.
6) Fireproofing. 4th of July and New Years Eve people are big fans of fireworks. That periodically will cause a roof to catch fire when they land on a rooftop. A steel roof is significantly more fire resistant than asphalt.
7) Longevity. Most steel roofs last on average 50 years, and often up to 70 years with little to no maintenance. The next time my roof needs replacing, I'll be dead and it will be somebody else's problem. I don't want to be looking retirement in the face and suddenly need a $25,000 roof replacement.
8) Costs. The price of a steel roof steel had gone down a lot when I did mine, and it was in the same ballpark as an asphalt roof for a much better product. Maybe it's gone up since then, but given that I haven't had to touch that roof in a decade now, I would say that even if it was significantly more expensive than asphalt shingles, it would be worth it to go with steel because I literally never have to worry about it again.
9) Recyclability. A steel roof, if you ever have to replace it in your lifetime, is 100 percent recyclable. That makes it more environmentally friendly on two counts.
10) Attractiveness. I did the installation on this roof myself, and it looks fantastic. My wife chose a chocolate brown color that goes great with the brick exterior of our house, but there are lots of colors available, including white, green, and red (think the red of a tile roof). There are also lots of different options available. I've seen steel roofing that's stamped to look like Spanish tile!
The biggest question most people ask is how loud the roof is in a rainstorm. The answer: it isn't. If you have solid sheathing and an insulated attic, you'll only hear it during the hardest of rainstorms, when you'd already be hearing a lour roaring anyway. My steel roof has been a dream to own. It looks good, lasts for decades longer than the best shingles, wasn't significantly more in price, and never has to be fiddled with. I've never regretted putting on a steel roof. And even though my wife was skeptical at first, she's a huge fan too.
@@MichaelDavis-cy4ok we don't have asphalt rooves on houses in Australia. Mainly terracotta or concrete tile, or steel. There are some stainless steel, copper, etc, but most rooves are steel which comes prepainted. Goes on easily ( I've replaced half of the roof on our previous house by myself), guaranteed for 25 years, but likely to last more than twice that long. We install roofing blanket to cut down on the noise. The lightest colours reduce the under roof temperature quite drastically. I can't even comprehend usuing asphalt!
@@bigm383 They've used shingles here in the US that are either heavy paper coated with asphalt or that are fiberglass mesh coated with asphalt for many decades here in the US because it's historically been cheaper than steel, and it does the job pretty well if it's installed properly. But you're right, steel outclasses it so far in quality and durability alone that I wouldn't even consider using asphalt shingles any more. The only thing that beats steel is copper, which is far more expensive, and slate tile which can last for 200 years or more, but which is insanely heavy and needs a special heavy duty support structure.
With my roof, I had just gotten back from a combat tour in Afghanistan. To pay someone to do the roof would have been $25,000 US, which was more than half my annual salary at the time, and I didn't want to take out a loan. So I ended up spending about $5,000 US on materials. I got extravagant and used the highest quality ice and water shield on all the eaves, ridges and valleys rather than just ordinary tar paper underlayment, because I live where it gets sweltering hot in summer and gets very wet, heavy snow in the winter. I've never had to mess with it since, and probably never will. Steel is king!
@@MichaelDavis-cy4ok Thanks for your reply. We have a few slate roofed houses in Australia that are very old. Usually imported from Britain. We can get copper and SS. There's also a prouct that is copper coated SS, but to expensive for mere mortals. Good on you for doing your own roof and doing a job that will last.
Very cool new products! Metal definitely is the way to go.
Matt, Very great shows! Thanks for for video!
I love the Stinger gun.
we got the stinger pneumatic stapler last year. I like it but I find it tends to waste the caps. Sometimes the caps don't advance properly or even it spits out more than one cap at a time which can be annoying. It has pretty much replaced what we used to use for installing roofing paper and vapor barrier.
*The ceramic tiles for the roof* could be interesting as a substrate for flexible solar panels.
Or a hail storm
I’ve been using Through the Roof for six years, a little expensive and amazingly good at solving waterproofing problems. Great for coating rake edges of plywood decking before Ice &Water adhered underlayment and lap joints. I also coated my pipe penetration boot joints to pipe with it, flashing lap edges, all holes from removed nails , etc. also comes in cans for brushed areas.
Cool stuff! My favorites were the roof boot system and the trick foam to concrete push-in connector.
Love your content brother!
I may be a software engineer, but I really eat this stuff up. Thanks for sharing.
As an ASM sheetmetal roofs are the best roofs.
Cost is the biggest hindrance to a quality metal roof (standing seam) any roofer who’s been around already knows this. Convincing homeowners would be a better use of your time.
I was interested in seeing the latest and greatest in metal roofing, and how exactly to install it. step by step so I can do my own roof, or at least I know what should be done if I had it installed. Thank you for the video.
Good idea. I’ll add that to my list
@@buildshow Are there metal roof systems with attractive, almost invisible ridge caps which resemble strip-ridges and mitred hip joints on real slate roofs?
That 'Catch All' product is basically 4 big almond nets with a bit of rubber sheeting attached. You could buy 50m x 20m almond nets for less than 200 euros. Couldn't believe how much he said that catch all was.
The only way a ceramic porcelain tile resists impacts is if it is 95% plus supported on the back. Which is why the proper laying of thinset on floors and walls is more than holding the tile in place. Where I live is hail country and there is no way that good roofers here recommend anything but Class IV high impact resistant asphalt shingles. Even in that category there is a huge range of quality and the cheaper class IV shingles don't hold up to our hail. We try to walk people away from metal every chance we get. Even the heavy stuff shows dings and if a hail strike happens directly on a seam the overlap will buckle enough that water can wick in between.
Ceramic tile roofing....guess what....check out the Sydney Opera House. Come on Matt, it's been there for almost 50 years. 😊
Had 3 leaks in my roof from those neoprene collars. What happened is the PVC vent pipe is cut jagged and when the collar is put on it gets torn on the jagged edges. Why not just put the plumbing vents at one location, essentially a chimney, even disguised as a chimney. No little leaks and much faster to re-roof since their are 7 plumbing vents to cut around like my house has.
I'm a plumbing contractor and that absolutely can be done. It just needs to be a large pipe the same size as the drain pipe that leaves the building.
Yeah, I combined several vent pipes when I remodeled my house. Do the math, and make sure you have the right size pipe, but there's no reason you need more than one. Also, a common trick is to use two neoprene boots on one pipe. Install both boots together like they are one boot, and the outer boot will be sacrificial. The sun won't touch the lower boot, and it will last longer than an asphalt roof. Or just use a traditional lead boot.
I put a circle of rubber roof with a hole a little smaller than the pipe over the boot. This keeps the sun off the boot. If this over lay fails in 20 years, then just replace it. @@onetwothree4148
My single ply roof installations are one of the best ones out there. Soon I’ll will start loading them on UA-cam
I have always loved and knew metal doodling lasts long, never need convincing. Just couldn’t stomach the price
On the build show 🤗
thank you for teaching about american tecniques! U are so cool and clear in make us understand the inner beauty of carpenter contruction! I wish we have the same in my country. Thanks again from Italy!
Il problema in Italia e che dicono che sono case fatti come i lego
Io sto in Canada da gia quasi 8 anni e sono carpentiere e ti posso garantire che non sono fatti come i lego, e vero che non sono come quelle italiane ma comunque sono ottime
What happens with that nail gun when you hit a stud? does it automatically adjust and increase the force to penetrate or do you have to readjust it manually? main reason why everyone uses hammers for roofing.
I would like to see roofing that comes in a roll, easy to apply and durable.
Soprema makes it. Its called unilay tourch on. Another option if you cant tourch is 90 pound its adheared but it is honestly garbage. Unilay is all on one and tourches directly to plywood just remember to do your eaves to code.
Hey Matt, I am a project manager for the nation's largest steel deck manufacturer. That's 1.5B deck, not pan (technically "cellular") deck.
I know I'm being nit-picky to a guy in residential but the price difference between 1.5B and cellular is huge. Would hate to see someone get turned off to steel deck because they asked for the wrong product.
The best roof covering of all is natural slate but it costs more for structural strength and cost but they will last 100 years plus
If you paint the neoprene seal on the pipe flashing, it will make it last a lot longer.
I see all these comments are all within a year.Matt come and check out how we do it in the south.
Traditional steel warehouses are rock ballast on rubber on insulation screwed with auger tip screws. OR TPO that gets microwave welded to those metal plates.
Metal roofs have their place certainly, however most insurance companies will have homeowners sign an aesthetic waiver on their policy if they install metal, for this reason metal may not be the right choice if your area receives hail. The F-Wave product (5.49 mark) would fair much better, light, easy to install and has a 5 year Class 4 hail warranty, labor and material! It also has a 15 year 130 mph wind warranty and a 15 year color fade warranty. If you need a new roof you should F it with F-Wave.
15 year fade warranty? It's basically an expensive asphalt shingle. Asphalt shingles look like crap to begin with, and Epdm doesn't last very long. I'd go with metal shingles at that rate
Thanks Matt - love your show vids!
I build nothing i Reno nothing I don’t own any major tools...just the basics Ikea set ... but I watch this guy and I am a subscriber 🤷♀️
Appreciate that!
My mother's front porch had a metal roof. It leaked liked crazy. Had it ripped off! Went with old style shingles. No leaks since.
Through the roof is not new! Great stuff.
Matt, I'd love to hear why you prefer a metal roof to asphalt shingles. My experience living in both has shown otherwise. Do you have a video or article somewhere which explains the reasons for you preferences?
Polymer is the future
As a homeowner looking for a metal standing seam roof, I wish there were more contractors experienced in this practice. I've been looking for several months on Cape Cod, MA and to-date not found anyone savvy and local.
Try contacting flat roofing and building envelope companies the people you are looking for arent actual roofers. Its a different trade. ASM or architectual sheet Metal workers. Its a specialized trade and requires different skills. Most ASM guys work for flat roofing companies to do the metal work. They usually install standing seam through their metal division.
Matt, I need you in Spokane,Wa.
Hi Matt, I liked the Catchment system you showed. We had our barn re-roofed this past fall and the roofer didnt completly clean up the nails on the ground. One of our horses picked up a nail in their hoof. This was very bad news for the horse, us and the roofer. Our vet bills came to about $5K and I know the roofer lost all his profit on this one job due to not totaly cleaning up.
Concerning "The Catch All" system... There are actually trailers now that raise up to roof level and catch the debris. At 4 grand for this system, you're not talking about too much extra to just get a trailer and not have to pick all this crap up in the first place. You also wouldn't need to worry about protecting the house siding because the trash never even gets to the ground. The takeaway? If you don't mind picking up all the trash, and you don't mind you and your crew throwing out your backs, then get this system. If you would rather only handle the debris once then get a trailer. Just google it and you will find it.
If you don’t mind paying 35K for the Equipter trailer that raises up to the roof go ahead... 4K is a good down payment.
For us most houses have bad yards that will not allow a driving trailer to get around. Rented one once for a job we could not get a dumpster to and it was great to carry debris to the dumpster 1/4 mile away.
Some interesting products, looking forward to seeing a project using one of these products.
Waiting for a cordless nail gun for shingle install etc.
Thanks for the video. Cool stuff. One question though. What is the draw or advantage of insulating on the outside of a steel roof or building? Seems like you need redundancy to keep weather from the insulating layer.?
the price difference will keep most people from buying metal as compared to shingles and it always will
Okay this might be a silly question, but on the catch all what would happen if a few singles with some nails still threw them fell. Would it shred the screening?
Love the stinger had it for years
Im curious why more people don't use metal roofs? A friend of mine just built a house up in Idaho last year, when he built his roof he put corrugated galvanized steel panels on the roof, but instead of screwing them to the roof, he installed strips of metal flat bar that he screwed into the plywood, then he tack welded the steel sheets to the flat bar at the edges, then overlapped the next peace tack welding it to the next sheet. Then he went back and sprayed the entire roof with bed liner paint to seal the welds on the roof.
I'd be curious to know how well those thin ceramic tiles handle hail, my guess would be about the first one. They don't appear to be fully supported
Probably pretty well. You ever drilled porcelain tile? It is one of the hardest materials in a home so I could see it holding up to a hail storm.
Ooonnn the build show!!!!
Very cool!! Thanks for sharing.
As far as the boots lifetime boots are the best they are stainless steal
I wonder if that porcelain roof is more expensive than regular shake
Like your videos, was wondering if you have any experience with spider tie solid pour concrete roof Systems
Matt, Can you explain or show me a link describing why metal roofing is better than asphalt? When I think of metal roofing I always think of Tuff-Rib with those stinking screws that always back out.
Metal roofing just lasts a lot longer than Asphalt. Consider that few young people are signing up to be roofers. I am sure in about 15 to 20 years, labor costs for replacing a roof will be a lot higher as Boomer contractors retire and don't get replaced.The only metal roof system for residential is standing seam. Don't let a contractor talk you into something else. Also choose a roofing provider that offers a long term warranty on the paint. If the warranty on the paint is only 5 or 10 years, you can bet its going to start cracking right after the warranty is expired. Remember a metal roof will expand & contract many time per day as the sun heats it. Every time a cloud passes by the roof will start to cool and contract, and then expand again after the cloud passes by. There is also condensation (will happen every night).That said a metal roof installed right will cost about 40% more & finding a good contractor that installs metal roof can be hard to find. Best to find a contractor that specializes in doing metal roofs only. the contractor that does mostly asphalt is very likely to make mistakes that cause problems.
What about the electrical conduit that goes through the roof for the utility power
I've tried to get an estimate for a Daltile Perennial Roof for 9 months without success. I suspect they've encountered technical, production, or financial problems.
Installed hundreds of Firestone and McElroy metal roofing systems.
I’d never put one on my house.
May I ask why? I ask because I was looking into them. Thank you.
norrisonian metal is going to leak eventually, and it’s a guessing game of where it comes in from, your really placing all your money on butyl tape, so make sure your contractor doesn’t go cheap when buying it. It’s literally the most important part of the system.
If you live in a place that freezes, your chances of leaks just skyrocketed.
Not to mention how easily damaged it can get from hail and rain is much louder.
Paint starts to fade after 5 or so years also.
They look clean if done right and work well at first, but the problems are inevitable and if you have to replace a panel in the middle of your roof... well, book your whole weekend.
Imo they work great for commercial, industrial and ag.. residential no so much.
@@Hu1ud Thank you! I had no idea they were such high maintenance!!
I’m actually disappointed Tesla hasn’t been able to get their solar roof to mass market.
Me too
Idk what that is
I worked for solar City before Tesla absorbed them and they became Tesla power . That shit will be out to the people soon . And it's bad ass..
Its $ 2000.00 per sq but not available everywhere.
Enjoyed the video. Many items seem to be over-engineered. The difference between the catch all and a tarp..Price!
1tacomame Yea. That catch all looks like the material they use to cover trailers to keep the debris from flying off. I can’t imagine it will hold much weight before ripping.
I like the ceramic tile idea. I wonder how the weight compares to asphalt shingles.
I was wondering the same so I did a little research. Asphalt architectural shingles weigh 320-400 pounds per square. Matt said the ceramic shingles weigh 500-700 pounds per square.
Hail?
My old hometown, I moved just before they completed the convention center.
Uncle Sherwin ~!~
Cool stuff, keep the videos coming. I’m loving all the product options.
Matt, tell us something about your backpack. It looks pro
I have a metal roof, and would prefer asphalt for installing anything, like a bathroom vent
With those rodenhouse plastic pegs to attach exterior foam insulation to concrete. Does anything else need to go over the foam? What about above ground? I am looking for options to insulate outside concrete basement below and above ground. I will have to do some digging for below.
For the outside it more practical to use Fiberglass insulation. Typically insects like carpenter ants, termites will tunnel through foam insulation. Alternatively you can purchase foam insulation with built in pesticide. Therma-start offer foam with a pesticide.For my project I only insulated below grade and left 12" to 18" insulated so that I keep an eye out for insects. Have insulation above grade can hide insect if the tunnel between the foundation and the insulation. If you really wanted to insulated all the way up, you can apply a stucco like mortar on the outside of the foam insulation. But this can leave you exposed to possible insect damage if the tunnel up into your rim boards.For my project we apply an asphalt sealer and the fiberglass panels was stuck on using the asphalt sealer as an adhesive. In the few places the insulation did stick well we used the a masonry nail gun with caps.
Iv been doing metal roofing in Australia for 30 years and never been called back for a roof leak .
splashpit 100 years easy out of metal roof. Mates selling a 1850s house and original roof in ipswich Qld my last house was 1939 original roof ..no leaks just rough looking
Great video, however, warranties are a farce in the roofing industry. I have been screwed on every roof I have purchased. The warranty means noting ! And ..... the government does not care !
The material warranty is a selling point. In my area 3-tabs last about 10 years and the architects last about 15. Metal and tile are the only true 40 year roofs.
Haven't seem any roof tile build in with solar panel. Other side of the world is already in production mode
Stinger 😆 magnetic hatchet thank u
I guess asphalt is for roads, not roofs, correct?
2:45 tornado resistant...
4:25 large hail resistant...
Future follow-up on metal roofing...
I have a question as an ammeter on roofing shingles. I noticed while re-shingling my roof that there was a strip of tar under a cellophane on the back of the shingle. Looking at it, it made sense to me that if I removed these cellophane strips, the hot Sun would melt that tar helping to glue the shingle down close to the un-nailed edge. (After seeing this, I thought about putting roof cement on the back of each of the three lead edge fins ... I know, overkill.) But I could find nothing mentioned about this strip on any installation instructions. So I called the manufacturer. He said no, this was something that was related only to the manufacture and they were not to be removed on install. He could not tell me what this had to do with the manufacture process. Anybody know the answer to this? Why is it needed in manufacture?
Any thoughts on Davinci or other synthetic slate products?
They look shite compared to real slate .maybe lighter but just looks bad
Yeah I used CertainTeed's fake slate on a small project a couple years ago. STAY AWAY. Buy real slate or go with metal shingles or something else. The fake slate was almost as expensive as the real thing, scratched very easily, and the rake cuts looked like cheap plastic no matter what you did to rough them up like slate. It looked OK, but I don't think that roof will look good in 50 years (with the stainless nails we used it should still be there though).
Thanks for taking us along you have a blessed day
What about aluminum roofs?
With that new gun too attached exterior insulation what's the depth of the metal that it can shoot through.. I'm wondering about a shipping container
That plastic fasteners for concrete is in use for more than 20 years
I asked a local contractor if they would do metal roofing around here and he said they would not do it because they had too many issues with them around here I do not know if it is because another contractor is doing shoddy work.
Id like to see that talk about metal roofs
Laid millions of sqft of 1 1/2 roof deck!
Love sashco - through the roof👍🏼