I *can* make these at home, but from how much I've learned over the years from your videos, I feel like I owe you a few bones! Thanks for all you do, Chad!!
Chad I’m older and retired and I’ve learned more about AR -15 rifles in the last year. I will be getting some of your inspection tools soon. Thanks I appreciate you
This is a great tip! On some muzzle devices for AR-10 in .308, for example, you may actually want them canted to counteract the twist during recoil, if the muzzle device is designed to do so.
Great tip! I have often used the flats of a muzzle device to eyeball alignment with the side of a rail, but it never occured to me to accentuate the angles with a rod. Then again, if it's so close that I can't see the difference, then 1/2 degree of port timing is probably not going to throw off my shooting perceptibly, so I just call it good enough. However, I can see how a person of more meticulous predilections might find the slightest misalignment irksome.
In my eyes, it's a 5.56, and I'm never shooting past 500. I'm building the rifles for me. If I can't tell if it's off a little bit between the top port of a birdcage and the gasblock, I call it good. Even maybe a tiny bit canted, I don't care. I want it to hide flash. Does it hide flash? Good!
I understand no-one uses them anymore except me, but what about the 3 prong XM16E1 or M16A1 flash hiders? I also use some Sig 3 prongs on suppressed M-4's
Machine (or even 3D print) a fixture that fits the specific muzzle device you are using. Going off of memory, isn't the only substantial difference between the A1 and A2 flash hider is that the A2 has a closed bottom section?
Does anyone make AR master tool with alignment bubbles mounted in them, or wouldn't it be better to buy a separate bubble alignment tool and mount it to the tool?
The thing about that is it involves a fair amount of work-reaming out the pin holes and such-which while not overly burdensome if you have the tools and skills, it will often fall into one of two categories: Either it's a cheap barrel, in which case it's not worth the labor, or it's an expensive barrel, in which case it should have been right to begin with and you ought to RMA it.
Ma! He did it again!
They are dropping like rain!
@@robertfoote3255 flowin like the great niagara 😁😁
I *can* make these at home, but from how much I've learned over the years from your videos, I feel like I owe you a few bones!
Thanks for all you do, Chad!!
I imagine there are thousands of tools in this platform running better thanks to these vids 👍
That's my goal
Chad had a LOT of coffee today lol. Thanks for the free education!!
Chad I’m older and retired and I’ve learned more about AR -15 rifles in the last year. I will be getting some of your inspection tools soon. Thanks I appreciate you
Keep them coming
This is a great tip! On some muzzle devices for AR-10 in .308, for example, you may actually want them canted to counteract the twist during recoil, if the muzzle device is designed to do so.
Now some people will have more excuses why they can't shoot straight. They're muzzle device wasn't timed properly. lol
I kinda already do this with a magnetic bubble level to time muzzle devices. I guess this works too if you don't have a level.
Great tip! I have often used the flats of a muzzle device to eyeball alignment with the side of a rail, but it never occured to me to accentuate the angles with a rod. Then again, if it's so close that I can't see the difference, then 1/2 degree of port timing is probably not going to throw off my shooting perceptibly, so I just call it good enough. However, I can see how a person of more meticulous predilections might find the slightest misalignment irksome.
Great idea. I typically use my small magnetic levels but I'm try this out next time
Loving these short tech tips
Wow, we'd missed seeing your content for a while but you're really banging out some videos now. (No pun intended!) This is awesome.
Good way to check the front sight/pic rail as well.
Learn something new each and every day ... thank you
Or just turn the muzzle device till the cent port is top and center
With a birdcage, this is the answer. Enough of the bottom is closed for it to not matter (much? at all?).
In my eyes, it's a 5.56, and I'm never shooting past 500. I'm building the rifles for me. If I can't tell if it's off a little bit between the top port of a birdcage and the gasblock, I call it good. Even maybe a tiny bit canted, I don't care. I want it to hide flash. Does it hide flash? Good!
Great videos..Keep them coming, SOTARACHA!!!!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great stuff!
Great tip!
Love the work around. AI won’t figure out you are promoting anything… or will it?
Ha! Used to time FAL barrels with rods as well.
I understand no-one uses them anymore except me, but what about the 3 prong XM16E1 or M16A1 flash hiders?
I also use some Sig 3 prongs on suppressed M-4's
Machine (or even 3D print) a fixture that fits the specific muzzle device you are using. Going off of memory, isn't the only substantial difference between the A1 and A2 flash hider is that the A2 has a closed bottom section?
Thank you for sharing, these short format videos are great!
Nice thanks for the tip I’m ocd I’ll run a line and get perfectly straight 👍🏻saweeet
Clever
This is genius!
Does anyone make AR master tool with alignment bubbles mounted in them, or wouldn't it be better to buy a separate bubble alignment tool and mount it to the tool?
Low tech is just as good as high tech sometimes
a sick video would be aligning a front sight that is canted
The thing about that is it involves a fair amount of work-reaming out the pin holes and such-which while not overly burdensome if you have the tools and skills, it will often fall into one of two categories: Either it's a cheap barrel, in which case it's not worth the labor, or it's an expensive barrel, in which case it should have been right to begin with and you ought to RMA it.
@@doktorfaustus oh lol, i had no idea
When mine don't time right I put the crush washer on the surface grinder and take a few thou off until it's perfect
👍👍👍
Mark me down for a member of the 'close enough' tribe.
Aint nobody got time for dat
Great tip!