Hi Jack, I'm a 73 year old grandmother who loves to shoot soccer at high school games and club soccer! I have four granddaughters who all play club and three who play high school also. Being on the field at a high school game makes me feel young. I use a Nikon 7500 and a Tamron 2.8 70-200 lens. I found your 9 point auto focus to work well for me. I've used many other tips that you have so freely given. I appreciate your help and hope to continue to shoot soccer for a long time. Oh by the the way the youngest has decided to add volleyball so I'm now figuring out the best way to shoot that indoors and much closer. Wish me luck!!
I use Auto ISO when shooting outdoor sports with shadows and sunlight with my Nikon D5. You set your preferred shutter speed and aperture and you don't have to worry about the exposure. Everything is correctable in RAW. A real game changer for me.
I have shot youth sports for nearly 10 years with a Nikon D600 and the Nikon 28-300 zoom or 16-35 for some basketball. Football, baseball, softball, soccer, motocross. Bought a Nikon D500 and Sigma 70-200 Sport when they came out. What an incredible combo! Hired to shoot local junior rodeo in Orderville Utah 4 years ago with D500 and Sigma. Got seriously sick and had to sell all but D600 and 28-300, which I have used the last 2 years for junior rodeo. Just got a used D500 and Sigma 150-500 to go with 28-300 when our rodeo season begins in a week. My greatest focusing challenge is when horse and rider are racing toward me and my camera focuses on horse's face instead of rider. I intend to try your tip of moving the focus point up a bit. I have found d25 focus method works best for rodeo for me.
Focusing on the chest makes sense, esp. for a DSLR. I have usually cued off, or tried to catch, the face and I wasn't happy with the percentage of clear faces. When shooting from a distance numbers on the chest makes some sense. Thanks.
Great video, Jack. I've always been a back button focus advocate after I first learned about it many years ago. For my Canon 5D Mark IV, I set two different back buttons for focus. One using one-shot and one using servo, that way it's easy to quickly switch between focus modes. I'm also generally using either a single point or a small center group.
for the photos I do (football) I use AF-C with a matrix metering mode which works very well for me, however sometimes I struggle a bit with the sharpness of my images.
Hey Jack I have the D5 also. I shoot high school football at night. The last game I shot was in auto iso and set the highest to 51,200. When I look on the computer it looks ok, not to much grain but do you think 51,200 is to high or should I stay at 25,600? You have taught me so much and I have become a better photographer. Keep posting
I own Canon, Nikon, and Sony cameras, but tend to shoot Sony more than the others. Extensive and expansive AF, I use any one of the Lock On settings, Expandible if the subject is moving around the frame. It keeps the lock on the primary subject even with other motion going on. I prefer using shutter activated focus rather than back button for this because I can control the focus better than by having to zoom in and out and use two buttons.
Thanks for the video.. most of the settings I have already been using since the D750, i just upgraded to a D5 (my dream camera) from a D850 (the perfect camera). So im getting used to it. Sports and Real Estate photographer here. I still keep all my previous camera (D7100, D750, D850 and now D5)
Hello Mr. Beasley. Recently I have started down the avenue of sports photography and your videos have been extremely helpful. They have definitely guided me in the right direction of becoming a efficient sports photographer. Thank you again, Cheers!
Hey Jack 👋 I know this is an older video but just want to say I love your content and it’s been very helpful. I have recently started shooting for a soccer school and your tips are game changers 🙏 from one photographer to another, thank you 📸
Q: Subject walking towards u, do u focus on chest using single focus point w/ AF-C set or focus on head of subject using either 5 group or 9 points w/ AF-C set. I have Nikon D750.
Face is always better than chest, if it can be done. AF-C always. If they are moving slow and steady, single point is the most accurate. If the movement is erratic, the groups give you more chances to catch the subject.
great video . i shoot a Nikon D500 with either my nikon 200 500 5.6 or my nikon 70 200 2.8 I shoot sports for my local paper . usually i shoot in single point focus at 1000th of a sec wide open with auto iso on
@@JackBeasleyMedia i use my 70 200 2.8 for the indoor netball ect. I think the replacement for the 200 500 5.6 will be a 400 prime 2.8 . Any other suggestions for a replacement thats a little faster
Thanks for the useful (as usual) tips. Regarding the AF settings question... still evolving. Right now I'm shooting high school basketball (1Dx, 24-70mm f/2.8, back button, AI servo, high speed continuous), and I mostly use single point, just above center, shooting portrait. I have a pretty good hit rate, but every so often (once a game), it wigs out and I have a 3-8 shot burst that's completely out of focus. I'll try the group/9 point option to see how that goes. After this week, hoops is over and will be watching your videos to learn about track and field!
@@JackBeasleyMedia My D500 (70-200) shows 25 points as the smallest number under Limit AF-Area Mode Selection. I have it set at 5 using the front of camera button (Pressed). It is selected, and single point AF is checked. I'm having same issue with few hits in focus, subjects further away during a nigh time HS football game. I just realized too, I was set to AF-S, Ugh! AF-C should help too?
As a canon shooter The focus are VERY different and only work in Servo AF I shoot a lot of sports and Track and bowling are closer to focus ( coming at you)than say soccer and basketball which can use errant mode or come into focus depending on the skill level of the athletes. Short answer they are very different in the hands of a smart sports photographer
Thank you for the video, I shot my first soccer match yesterday and i used 21 point AF on AF/C on a d780. I found it hard to get focus quickly enough to capture the action. The second thing i had trouble with was a sports photographer there told me to always use aperture priority, which i tried and the shutter speed kept dropping to the point that the pics had some motion blur. I need to rewatch this video and see what i can do for my next game!
I never use large numbers of focus points on sports, usually only the dynamic focus 9 point or group. Too many points and it might get thrown off by a player other than the one you are focusing on. Next, I only use aperture priority on bright, sunny days with the aperture wide open - or you will get exactly what you encountered. In most scenarios, I use manual shutter and aperture and let the ISO go auto.
Hi Jack, once again an excellent video, Mine are about the same as yours but one thing I'm going to change is from release to focus release makes sense.
Thanks! Yep, I'm always experimenting to see what works better in a given situation or sport. For example, I said I didn't like 3D in the video, but I recently tried it on some individual runners, and it worked well. Obviously, it performs best when there isn't any crossing interference.
Jack I do enjoy your video. I am a Maxpreps photographer too here in Las Vegas. I shoot with a Nikon D500 and D4. I find the D500 for say basketball, volleyball, etc. will focus faster than the D4. Is this my imagination? I use the D4 for all my exterior sports and love it. Good shooting and lets have a full season starting in August huh..
Thanks, Jules! I haven’t personally used either a D500 or D4, so you may be right about the focusing speed. I will tell you that I’m really looking forward to this coming footballer season.
You’re right about the speed of the AF on the D500. I know people who own the D850 and D500 and they reckon the D500 has the edge especially when recovering AF. I’ve even read an article from a person who used a 1DX Mk2 for his work in photographing Sports and he also personally owned a D4S and D500 and he said the speed and accuracy of AF of the D500 was the best out of the three cameras.
I am shooting basketball inside a gym with a Nikon D300 with a 35-70 2.8 lens. I can get away with 500th of a second but have to shoot at ISO 2000 or 3200.
Water Surf photography: The subject moves very fast and in Erratic motion, the Background water moves, the foreground water moves, and the Light continuously changes. Water covers part of the body surfer. Photographers can only view one side of the surfer. How can Focus and keep enough light for a good shot?
I enjoyed your video and found it very helpful. I do have one question. I shoot with a Nikon D7100. I have programed the AE-L AF-L button to AF On. My question relates to exposure. I have programed the Preview button to AE-l lock only. Is this the best way to meter exposure? If you are using back button focusing, when does the camera meter exposure?
Muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, he estado buscando configurafion para un nikon 70-200 2.8 E fl ed, quiero saber como configurar los botene que trae el lente y sus funciones especificas, saludos dese chile.
Thank you much for sharing this video. I have a Nikon D5 and in AF-C single point focus, I'm unable to move the focus point around in my viewfinder. There's a small red box, auto focus area indicator directly in the center of the viewfinder. My question is; should I be able to move the small red box point of focus around to different locations in my viewfinder? I believe I should be able to move the point of focus around using the toggle switch on the back of the camera but I'm unable to move the focus point no matter what camera setting I try. Do you have any thoughts or ideas?
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thank you foe getting back to me. The good news I found the answer! In case this ever comes up again, on the back of the D5, there's a "Focus Selector Lock" key. If a person rotates the Focus Selector Lock key to the "L" position, you cannot adjust your focus selector point. My Focus Selector Lock was in the locked position, thus forbidding me to select different focus points in the viewfinder. I simply rotated the Focus Selector Lock off the lock position and it's working like a dream! :) In all honesty I felt pretty foolish when I discovered this simple fix, but I'm able to select different focus points now and very pleased. At any rate, I just wanted to pass this along for general purposes. Thanks again!
You didn’t mention AF-fine tune. I used to stop down my lenses in order to get sharper images, but since I discovered AF-fine tune I don’t do that anymore. The best way to calibrate long lenses for sports is trial and error. Other methods have simply failed me. This revolutionised my images and gave them sharp subject and silky blurry background that I didn’t have before.
Moving to 9-focus after watching this helped me a lot. I had experimented with settings and settled on a single point, but had a lot of misfocuses while tracking that now are much more rare. I shoot youth soccer, where subject isolation is a problem. I am. It very convinced about the back button focus advice, though. I tried, but went back: I found it was very distracting for me and giving me one more variable to control.
I use a D500 for photographing wildlife coupled with a 500mm PF f/5.6. I mainly use BBF but sometimes will have Group AF and focus set to the shutter button and have the PV button set to AF Area mode 25 point and the AF-On button set to single point AF. I can change between all thee AF modes in an instant without having to take my eye away from the viewfinder. I find Group AF works best on sideways moving subjects and the 25 point AF works best at subjects coming towards the camera. I have sensitivity set to 2 and in the middle as you do.
I love the eye-tracker autofokus on the sony a7 3, it is close to magic, especially when shooting wide open. I went from canon 5d (2 and 3) and the sony just give me a lot more success. But that is when shooting portraits or single subjects, not action photography. When wide open with the 85mm lense, the tip of the nose could be in focus while the pupils are off. With the sony eye tracker the successrate is much higher. It can get confused when there are more than one subject, have to use the touch focus to lock onto one of the subjects.
Hi Jack Is there a video on taking photos off of a reflective surface? example plexi glass around a soccer field (indoor soccer) . How do you shoot through the plexi glass without getting the reflection part? please help.
Hi Jack, I use either the group or the Dynamic focus points. I find these work really well as I shoot Basketball and having the BBF set up is awesome I have found that my hit rate has gone up from about 80% to about 95% hit rate. By the way I have just gone back to Nikon and I have a Nikon D810. :)
So, I watched one of your videos earlier this morning on shooting football games and found it very informative. You may remember answering a question that you touched on here about "group focus" points or in Canon speak, "expanded area". I also watched your video on becoming a MaxPrep photographer and it looks as though I need to be keying in on individual players to get some sharp face shots to submit. Is it safe to assume that I'll need to plan ahead in every place or series of plays as to whether I want to capture an individual player or capture several to tell the story of the play? Give me some tips on how you decide which is your goal throughout the game. I'm re-progamming my custom buttons now so i can easily flip between spot focus and expanded area. I'm loving your videos so far!
Thanks! I usually just look for the action to start, but by the second quarter, or definitely the second half, I focus on individuals. I sell lots of photos of players who don't usually touch the ball. Those players' parents buy photos too! And seriously, you can only get so many photos of the quarterback or halfback carrying the ball. I also force myself to shoot defensive players too.
Awesome sauce! You da man! My wife keeps asking "what are you gonna do when you're too old to run your landscaping business?". I'm gonna be a MaxPreps sports Photographer! Hahahahahaha
@@JackBeasleyMedia I just stumbled across this video, a little more than 2 years later......and then my dumb comment. LOL. I'm not even really sure what I was asking you, so I appreciate your patience in trying to answer. Since then, I've actually launched a fairly successful photography business. My primary customers are ARA rally teams, and high school sports. I will say all of the points in your videos, I still apply today. Backbutton focus is everything! I track a subject or a car, holding it down, and snap away. As for cases, I would highly recommend people with Canon try Case 4 for sports and then read up on the custom detail sliders. I've actually tweaked case 4 to my specific needs and it works beautifully for all high school sports. Last but not least......it's funny I brought up MaxPreps in the comments. I had kinda forgotten about them because I realized I need to build a portfolio of content to pull from for a submission (and my gear wasn't up to snuff). I'm happy to say that my initial 6 was excepted with flying colors, and I'm putting together "The 25" as we speak to submit Monday morning. I will add that they accepted me with a 70-200 so far, but I also mentioned that I will be acquiring a 400 f2.8 this summer. Fingers crossed I make it all the way in. I really appreciate your videos, once again! You can check out my work at Keith Kreatives on FB, keithkreatives.com and keithkreatives.myportfolio.com
The autofocus tips and particularly the "focusing points" info was very helpful. Do you have a lesson on how to use the various "focus points" in , say, basketball? I find I don't aways want my FP's to be in the center if someone is coming down the court with someone chasing them. However, if the FP's are in the center, you end up with the subject out-of-focus. So, do you use the FP's wheel "on-the-fly"? Just curious, might seem like a foolish question with an obvious answer. Otherwise, love the videos.
@@JackBeasleyMedia That was a helpful tip in the video. but what do you do when your subjects are side by side or facing one another, say in a player moving up court and another guarding them? If I don't change the focus point from one side or the other, the FP is upper center and will focus between them if I don't change the FP from one side or the other. Do you change the focus points on the fly so it favors one side or the other? Your been very helpful, thanks.
I've never owned a D4, so I can tell you from experience. You might want to look at the manual - www.manualslib.com/manual/327472/Nikon-D4.html?page=1#manual
My Z6 blows the D4 or D5 away on facial tracking in decent light. The D4 blows away the Z6 for low light autofocus but still doesn’t do well with facial tracking.
Which is why I haven't switched to a Z6 yet. I shoot a lot of low-light sports and I need something that tracks well in poor light. Hopefully, Nikon catches up with Canon and Sony sooner rather than later.
Hi Jack on the D5 I noticed that you can get a line of focus points that are Vertical and group of focus points that are Horizontal. Have you used this set up before, if so did you find that your focus was better or worse. I have not yet tried these but I will try them this weekend when I shoot my first game of Volleyball. Thank you.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Hi Jack that’s the one the group settings. I gather your preference is the Dynamic 9, I might try the D9 this weekend, thanks again for your advice, I love watching your videos.
What area focus mode works best for hockey? Single or Area Focus Mode. Some say they used single point, my fear is that I would lose a lot of shots. Is the AF area with eye detection an option or is it too much control for the camera.
I haven’t shot hockey in ages, but from what I know of the game, I’d use some sort of group focusing mode. The specific name varies based on the manufacture. I only use single point for subjects that are moving steadily and easily tracked. If your camera has a good eye detection (not all do), you could give that a try. I suggest you experiment.
@jackBeasley I am borrowing a D6, in the A3 focus tracking with lock on portion, on the D6 I am seeing that for Subject motion, the only option is erratic or steady, there isn't a middle option. If you had to select one, and you are shooting football during daytime, would you select erratic? BTW- videos extremely helpful!
Jack I shoot all sports football and volleyball currently. I just got a Nikon 7500 which is a big upgrade from the D3200 I have been using. What lenses would you use in these sports? I have 55-200mm, 70-300mm, 18-55mm.
If I'm not mistaken, all three of those have minimum apertures greater than f2.8. As a result, all three will struggle on night time fields and in dark gyms to give you decent (1/500 or greater) shutter speeds with reasonable ISOs. During daylight, the 55-200 or the 70-300 should be fine. I would think the 18-55 would be too short. If you're really serious about indoor and night time sports photography, I recommend getting a 70-200/2.8. I'd trade in your two longer lenses to get that.
Same thing - that 70-200. It's the perfect indoor sports lens. It'll be a bit short on the long end for field sports, but at least you'll have a fighting chance with shutter speeds.
Shooting soccer and beating my head, half the shots are good and half oof:( I shoot with a canon 6D Mark I, 70-200 mm- usually set it at 1/1250, iso 350-400 depending on time of day and placement of sun, f3.2. AI- Servo mode, continuous, changed from center single focus point to up a few spots, this camera doesn't have too many points to pick. I am still struggling and am thankful for this video and am going to try it this afternoon at our game. Thank You:)
I didn’t mention it in the video, but it’s important to let the camera get a lock before you fire the shutter. There have been plenty of times, even with my pro-level camera, that when I start banging frames before it gets a lock, those first couple are out of focus. Soccer is hard - the ball is constantly moving and it’s hard to predict be here it will go.
Don't beat yourself up. The 6D has many benefits, but fast focus acquisition is not one of them. I tried to shoot football with it and it was hit and miss. You can definitely work around it with great technique, but it's not a natural action shooter.
Great video! Quick question re: the AF-C priority selection options. You have a higher end Nikon, so you have the option to set it for: release, focus + release, release + focus, or focus. I have a Nikon D 7500 so I only have two options: release or focus. I am using all of your other settings for my sports photography. Since I cannot choose your recommended option, Would you recommend I set mine as release or focus?
I think I would try both and see how the results play out. Try them in similar shooting situations - say, first half of the game in one mode, second half in the other, and see if there is a difference in the number that comes out sharp. A lot of this is experimentation with settings and seeing what works best for you and your gear.
I’m a beginner photographer and use a Nikon D700 but for some reason whenever I go into the menu the options to change to AF-C and other things are greyed out and won’t let me change them, anyone have any tips on how I can fix this? I’ve tried resetting but nothing seems to change
Great video. I use every one of the points you went through. I do have to say though, I'm a Canon shooter and the AF tracking/eye tracking on at least the R6 is phenomenal. Obviously, distance makes a difference, but for the most part it'll keep the eye very well. As well as differentiate between animals and people. I agree completely with BBF, I'll never go back. Good stuff Jack!
HI Jack I'm yet to put your tips to use but I think they will be game changing for me! Great stuff! Im a d610 user with Tamron 70-200mm, I have used the SP mode prior, yes without BBF - but will change that immediately...., AFC- 4 points, will also change to jpeg. Looking forward to seeing my progress. PS Im predominately a Real Estate Photographer but super enjoy Australian Rules Football... Thank you again
It’s different on every make and model of camera. For most Nikon cameras it’s called “AF-On”. In some cases, you have to assign that function to a button in the setup menu.
Hi Jack, I'm a 73 year old grandmother who loves to shoot soccer at high school games and club soccer! I have four granddaughters who all play club and three who play high school also. Being on the field at a high school game makes me feel young. I use a Nikon 7500 and a Tamron 2.8 70-200 lens. I found your 9 point auto focus to work well for me. I've used many other tips that you have so freely given. I appreciate your help and hope to continue to shoot soccer for a long time. Oh by the the way the youngest has decided to add volleyball so I'm now figuring out the best way to shoot that indoors and much closer. Wish me luck!!
Good luck and have fun! By the way, I have a video on volleyball too.
I use Auto ISO when shooting outdoor sports with shadows and sunlight with my Nikon D5. You set your preferred shutter speed and aperture and you don't have to worry about the exposure. Everything is correctable in RAW. A real game changer for me.
I have shot youth sports for nearly 10 years with a Nikon D600 and the Nikon 28-300 zoom or 16-35 for some basketball. Football, baseball, softball, soccer, motocross. Bought a Nikon D500 and Sigma 70-200 Sport when they came out. What an incredible combo! Hired to shoot local junior rodeo in Orderville Utah 4 years ago with D500 and Sigma. Got seriously sick and had to sell all but D600 and 28-300, which I have used the last 2 years for junior rodeo. Just got a used D500 and Sigma 150-500 to go with 28-300 when our rodeo season begins in a week. My greatest focusing challenge is when horse and rider are racing toward me and my camera focuses on horse's face instead of rider. I intend to try your tip of moving the focus point up a bit. I have found d25 focus method works best for rodeo for me.
Focusing on the chest makes sense, esp. for a DSLR. I have usually cued off, or tried to catch, the face and I wasn't happy with the percentage of clear faces. When shooting from a distance numbers on the chest makes some sense. Thanks.
I am back up and running, I will fine tune. Wish I found your uTube sooner. Thank you Jack, your explanations are fabulous for the novice.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
This helped me so much !! Thank you for making this video. I was one happy camper leaving the game tonight knowing I had amazing pics to upload !
Great video, Jack. I've always been a back button focus advocate after I first learned about it many years ago. For my Canon 5D Mark IV, I set two different back buttons for focus. One using one-shot and one using servo, that way it's easy to quickly switch between focus modes. I'm also generally using either a single point or a small center group.
Excellent tips and advice.
Very much appreciated.
These are great tips Jack! I already was using back button autofocus but learned some new tips here. Thanks also for including Canon.
Happy to help!
Really like your way of teaching! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, you got yourself a new follower. Cheers from Stockholm, Sweden!
for the photos I do (football) I use AF-C with a matrix metering mode which works very well for me, however sometimes I struggle a bit with the sharpness of my images.
I have used the shutter button as my focus for 23 years. When I tried back button focus I was amazed how much easier it made it
Hey Jack I have the D5 also. I shoot high school football at night. The last game I shot was in auto iso and set the highest to 51,200. When I look on the computer it looks ok, not to much grain but do you think 51,200 is to high or should I stay at 25,600?
You have taught me so much and I have become a better photographer. Keep posting
@LiveeyePhoto I wouldn’t go that high
I own Canon, Nikon, and Sony cameras, but tend to shoot Sony more than the others. Extensive and expansive AF, I use any one of the Lock On settings, Expandible if the subject is moving around the frame. It keeps the lock on the primary subject even with other motion going on. I prefer using shutter activated focus rather than back button for this because I can control the focus better than by having to zoom in and out and use two buttons.
Hey Jack thanks... I am a newbie in sports photography. I took some your advices and suggested setting and my images are much better.
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching!
Jack thank you so much for sharing as I just now beginning my journey into Sports photography
Thanks for the video.. most of the settings I have already been using since the D750, i just upgraded to a D5 (my dream camera) from a D850 (the perfect camera). So im getting used to it. Sports and Real Estate photographer here. I still keep all my previous camera (D7100, D750, D850 and now D5)
Hello Mr. Beasley. Recently I have started down the avenue of sports photography and your videos have been extremely helpful. They have definitely guided me in the right direction of becoming a efficient sports photographer. Thank you again, Cheers!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Learned something new iin this video. I enjoyed the AF-C seleections piece that i hope will improve the focus quality.
Great little video. Thank you sir !
Hey Jack 👋 I know this is an older video but just want to say I love your content and it’s been very helpful. I have recently started shooting for a soccer school and your tips are game changers 🙏 from one photographer to another, thank you 📸
Q: Subject walking towards u, do u focus on chest using single focus point w/ AF-C set or focus on head of subject using either 5 group or 9 points w/ AF-C set. I have Nikon D750.
Face is always better than chest, if it can be done. AF-C always. If they are moving slow and steady, single point is the most accurate. If the movement is erratic, the groups give you more chances to catch the subject.
I have season seats for our local minor league team and sit on the inside 3rd base side. But do have the ability to move around. 👍🏽
Thank you so much, this very helpful 😊
You’re welcome!
great video . i shoot a Nikon D500 with either my nikon 200 500 5.6 or my nikon 70 200 2.8
I shoot sports for my local paper . usually i shoot in single point focus at 1000th of a sec wide open with auto iso on
Thanks! I really like my 200-500 for day games. The fields around here are too dark for that f5.6, though.
@@JackBeasleyMedia i use my 70 200 2.8 for the indoor netball ect.
I think the replacement for the 200 500 5.6 will be a 400 prime 2.8 .
Any other suggestions for a replacement thats a little faster
With a D500, you can probably do with a 300/2.8
You're the man. Awesome tips. I just bought myself a good condition D4 and I can't wait to shoot some cycling races with it. Cheers
Thank you!
As for your question of the day, I prefer spot focus so I can be sure it's going to focus the depth of field I want it to.
Great instructional tips and hints.
Thanks!
Very simple and clear information. Easy to understand by beginners. GG
I'm using nikon z7 and woahhh nice shoot thanks for education
Just discovered you on youtube. Love your videos. I'm a Nikon shooter. Love your honest and detailed explanations
Thanks, and welcome aboard!
Thanks for the useful (as usual) tips. Regarding the AF settings question... still evolving. Right now I'm shooting high school basketball (1Dx, 24-70mm f/2.8, back button, AI servo, high speed continuous), and I mostly use single point, just above center, shooting portrait. I have a pretty good hit rate, but every so often (once a game), it wigs out and I have a 3-8 shot burst that's completely out of focus. I'll try the group/9 point option to see how that goes.
After this week, hoops is over and will be watching your videos to learn about track and field!
Thanks! I hope to have a track and field video out in about a month or so.
@@JackBeasleyMedia My D500 (70-200) shows 25 points as the smallest number under Limit AF-Area Mode Selection. I have it set at 5 using the front of camera button (Pressed). It is selected, and single point AF is checked. I'm having same issue with few hits in focus, subjects further away during a nigh time HS football game. I just realized too, I was set to AF-S, Ugh! AF-C should help too?
Yes, definitely!
great work i was very happy to see how you process photos as i am just starting to do more Thank you keep up the Excellent Videos David
Thanks for watching!
As a canon shooter The focus are VERY different and only work in Servo AF I shoot a lot of sports and Track and bowling are closer to focus ( coming at you)than say soccer and basketball which can use errant mode or come into focus depending on the skill level of the athletes. Short answer they are very different in the hands of a smart sports photographer
Very informative. Thanks a lot.
Thanks
Thank you for the video, I shot my first soccer match yesterday and i used 21 point AF on AF/C on a d780. I found it hard to get focus quickly enough to capture the action. The second thing i had trouble with was a sports photographer there told me to always use aperture priority, which i tried and the shutter speed kept dropping to the point that the pics had some motion blur. I need to rewatch this video and see what i can do for my next game!
I never use large numbers of focus points on sports, usually only the dynamic focus 9 point or group. Too many points and it might get thrown off by a player other than the one you are focusing on. Next, I only use aperture priority on bright, sunny days with the aperture wide open - or you will get exactly what you encountered. In most scenarios, I use manual shutter and aperture and let the ISO go auto.
@@JackBeasleyMedia that’s really great advice, thank you for taking the time to share
Hi Jack, once again an excellent video, Mine are about the same as yours but one thing I'm going to change is from release to focus release makes sense.
Thanks! Yep, I'm always experimenting to see what works better in a given situation or sport. For example, I said I didn't like 3D in the video, but I recently tried it on some individual runners, and it worked well. Obviously, it performs best when there isn't any crossing interference.
Jack I do enjoy your video. I am a Maxpreps photographer too here in Las Vegas. I shoot with a Nikon D500 and D4. I find the D500 for say basketball, volleyball, etc. will focus faster than the D4. Is this my imagination? I use the D4 for all my exterior sports and love it. Good shooting and lets have a full season starting in August huh..
Thanks, Jules! I haven’t personally used either a D500 or D4, so you may be right about the focusing speed. I will tell you that I’m really looking forward to this coming footballer season.
You’re right about the speed of the AF on the D500. I know people who own the D850 and D500 and they reckon the D500 has the edge especially when recovering AF. I’ve even read an article from a person who used a 1DX Mk2 for his work in photographing Sports and he also personally owned a D4S and D500 and he said the speed and accuracy of AF of the D500 was the best out of the three cameras.
I am shooting basketball inside a gym with a Nikon D300 with a 35-70 2.8 lens. I can get away with 500th of a second but have to shoot at ISO 2000 or 3200.
Water Surf photography: The subject moves very fast and in Erratic motion, the Background water moves, the foreground water moves, and the Light continuously changes. Water covers part of the body surfer. Photographers can only view one side of the surfer. How can Focus and keep enough light for a good shot?
I enjoyed your video and found it very helpful. I do have one question. I shoot with a Nikon D7100. I have programed the AE-L AF-L button to AF On. My question relates to exposure. I have programed the Preview button to AE-l lock only. Is this the best way to meter exposure? If you are using back button focusing, when does the camera meter exposure?
Muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, he estado buscando configurafion para un nikon 70-200 2.8 E fl ed, quiero saber como configurar los botene que trae el lente y sus funciones especificas, saludos dese chile.
Mucho gusto!
Thank you much for sharing this video. I have a Nikon D5 and in AF-C single point focus, I'm unable to move the focus point around in my viewfinder. There's a small red box, auto focus area indicator directly in the center of the viewfinder. My question is; should I be able to move the small red box point of focus around to different locations in my viewfinder? I believe I should be able to move the point of focus around using the toggle switch on the back of the camera but I'm unable to move the focus point no matter what camera setting I try.
Do you have any thoughts or ideas?
@@RJP001 yes, you should. It’s hard for me to say what the problem is without looking at it.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thank you foe getting back to me. The good news I found the answer! In case this ever comes up again, on the back of the D5, there's a "Focus Selector Lock" key. If a person rotates the Focus Selector Lock key to the "L" position, you cannot adjust your focus selector point. My Focus Selector Lock was in the locked position, thus forbidding me to select different focus points in the viewfinder. I simply rotated the Focus Selector Lock off the lock position and it's working like a dream! :)
In all honesty I felt pretty foolish when I discovered this simple fix, but I'm able to select different focus points now and very pleased.
At any rate, I just wanted to pass this along for general purposes.
Thanks again!
Excelente explicación.Gracias lo pondré en práctica.
Gracias!
Thanks for some great tips. I really like the back focus button but notice it doesn’t work with my extra vertical grip added. Any suggestions
Is there a locking mechanism that’s turned on? Some grips have those
I am not aware of it.
You didn’t mention AF-fine tune. I used to stop down my lenses in order to get sharper images, but since I discovered AF-fine tune I don’t do that anymore. The best way to calibrate long lenses for sports is trial and error. Other methods have simply failed me. This revolutionised my images and gave them sharp subject and silky blurry background that I didn’t have before.
Fair point. It's actually time for me to update this video to incorporate mirrorless systems.
Moving to 9-focus after watching this helped me a lot. I had experimented with settings and settled on a single point, but had a lot of misfocuses while tracking that now are much more rare. I shoot youth soccer, where subject isolation is a problem. I am. It very convinced about the back button focus advice, though. I tried, but went back: I found it was very distracting for me and giving me one more variable to control.
On the BBF, I had to play with it awhile before I got used to it. Now, it's just a natural move.
@Alessandro Catorcini Totally agree with Jack. Give it time, it can be a game changer.
I use a D500 for photographing wildlife coupled with a 500mm PF f/5.6. I mainly use BBF but sometimes will have Group AF and focus set to the shutter button and have the PV button set to AF Area mode 25 point and the AF-On button set to single point AF. I can change between all thee AF modes in an instant without having to take my eye away from the viewfinder. I find Group AF works best on sideways moving subjects and the 25 point AF works best at subjects coming towards the camera. I have sensitivity set to 2 and in the middle as you do.
Great tips, thanks!
Thank you great video and explaining
Thanks, I appreciate it!
I love the eye-tracker autofokus on the sony a7 3, it is close to magic, especially when shooting wide open. I went from canon 5d (2 and 3) and the sony just give me a lot more success. But that is when shooting portraits or single subjects, not action photography. When wide open with the 85mm lense, the tip of the nose could be in focus while the pupils are off. With the sony eye tracker the successrate is much higher. It can get confused when there are more than one subject, have to use the touch focus to lock onto one of the subjects.
Yep, I plan to update this video to include cameras with good eye tracking.
Hi Jack
Is there a video on taking photos off of a reflective surface? example plexi glass around a soccer field (indoor soccer) . How do you shoot through the plexi glass without getting the reflection part? please help.
I do not have one, unfortunately. There are several other hockey photography tutorials on UA-cam, one may have the answers you need.
Hi Jack, I use either the group or the Dynamic focus points. I find these work really well as I shoot Basketball and having the BBF set up is awesome I have found that my hit rate has gone up from about 80% to about 95% hit rate. By the way I have just gone back to Nikon and I have a Nikon D810. :)
Nice! With basketball, I tend to use the 9-point dynamic. I've used single point and the 3D, but I keep going back to 9-point.
Nice video Shooting Nikon for a while myself your settings are dead on same ones I have always used.
Thanks!
Back button focus is great, even for portraits, it lets you recompose with out losing focus, it's the only mode I use.D4S.
Agreed!
@@JackBeasleyMedia The only time I have a problem with it is when I want somebody to photograph me using my camera, it's always Blurry! haha
So, I watched one of your videos earlier this morning on shooting football games and found it very informative. You may remember answering a question that you touched on here about "group focus" points or in Canon speak, "expanded area". I also watched your video on becoming a MaxPrep photographer and it looks as though I need to be keying in on individual players to get some sharp face shots to submit. Is it safe to assume that I'll need to plan ahead in every place or series of plays as to whether I want to capture an individual player or capture several to tell the story of the play? Give me some tips on how you decide which is your goal throughout the game. I'm re-progamming my custom buttons now so i can easily flip between spot focus and expanded area.
I'm loving your videos so far!
Thanks! I usually just look for the action to start, but by the second quarter, or definitely the second half, I focus on individuals. I sell lots of photos of players who don't usually touch the ball. Those players' parents buy photos too! And seriously, you can only get so many photos of the quarterback or halfback carrying the ball. I also force myself to shoot defensive players too.
Awesome sauce! You da man! My wife keeps asking "what are you gonna do when you're too old to run your landscaping business?". I'm gonna be a MaxPreps sports Photographer! Hahahahahaha
@@JackBeasleyMedia I just stumbled across this video, a little more than 2 years later......and then my dumb comment. LOL. I'm not even really sure what I was asking you, so I appreciate your patience in trying to answer. Since then, I've actually launched a fairly successful photography business. My primary customers are ARA rally teams, and high school sports. I will say all of the points in your videos, I still apply today. Backbutton focus is everything! I track a subject or a car, holding it down, and snap away. As for cases, I would highly recommend people with Canon try Case 4 for sports and then read up on the custom detail sliders. I've actually tweaked case 4 to my specific needs and it works beautifully for all high school sports. Last but not least......it's funny I brought up MaxPreps in the comments. I had kinda forgotten about them because I realized I need to build a portfolio of content to pull from for a submission (and my gear wasn't up to snuff). I'm happy to say that my initial 6 was excepted with flying colors, and I'm putting together "The 25" as we speak to submit Monday morning. I will add that they accepted me with a 70-200 so far, but I also mentioned that I will be acquiring a 400 f2.8 this summer. Fingers crossed I make it all the way in. I really appreciate your videos, once again! You can check out my work at Keith Kreatives on FB, keithkreatives.com and keithkreatives.myportfolio.com
The autofocus tips and particularly the "focusing points" info was very helpful. Do you have a lesson on how to use the various "focus points" in , say, basketball? I find I don't aways want my FP's to be in the center if someone is coming down the court with someone chasing them. However, if the FP's are in the center, you end up with the subject out-of-focus. So, do you use the FP's wheel "on-the-fly"? Just curious, might seem like a foolish question with an obvious answer. Otherwise, love the videos.
I always move my focus points up to catch upper chest and face as much as possible
@@JackBeasleyMedia That was a helpful tip in the video. but what do you do when your subjects are side by side or facing one another, say in a player moving up court and another guarding them? If I don't change the focus point from one side or the other, the FP is upper center and will focus between them if I don't change the FP from one side or the other. Do you change the focus points on the fly so it favors one side or the other? Your been very helpful, thanks.
No. I just track the main subject. If the other player is also in focus, great, but I’m just as happy if they’re out of focus.
Thanks youu sir
Great video Jack, however i have a question- Where is the custom control assignment on Nikon D4? I can´t find it... :(
I've never owned a D4, so I can tell you from experience. You might want to look at the manual - www.manualslib.com/manual/327472/Nikon-D4.html?page=1#manual
My Z6 blows the D4 or D5 away on facial tracking in decent light. The D4 blows away the Z6 for low light autofocus but still doesn’t do well with facial tracking.
Which is why I haven't switched to a Z6 yet. I shoot a lot of low-light sports and I need something that tracks well in poor light. Hopefully, Nikon catches up with Canon and Sony sooner rather than later.
It’s not as good as a DSLR when the subject is moving towards you. Side movement it is better.
Hi Jack on the D5 I noticed that you can get a line of focus points that are Vertical and group of focus points that are Horizontal. Have you used this set up before, if so did you find that your focus was better or worse. I have not yet tried these but I will try them this weekend when I shoot my first game of Volleyball. Thank you.
I think you're referring to the "group" setting and yes, I've used it in the past. I think it's comparable to the D9 AF mode, which I mostly use.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Hi Jack that’s the one the group settings. I gather your preference is the Dynamic 9, I might try the D9 this weekend, thanks again for your advice, I love watching your videos.
What area focus mode works best for hockey? Single or Area Focus Mode. Some say they used single point, my fear is that I would lose a lot of shots. Is the AF area with eye detection an option or is it too much control for the camera.
I haven’t shot hockey in ages, but from what I know of the game, I’d use some sort of group focusing mode. The specific name varies based on the manufacture. I only use single point for subjects that are moving steadily and easily tracked. If your camera has a good eye detection (not all do), you could give that a try. I suggest you experiment.
@jackBeasley I am borrowing a D6, in the A3 focus tracking with lock on portion, on the D6 I am seeing that for Subject motion, the only option is erratic or steady, there isn't a middle option. If you had to select one, and you are shooting football during daytime, would you select erratic? BTW- videos extremely helpful!
I don't have a D6, so I can't verify what you are saying about no middle option, but for football, I'd probably go with the erratic. And thanks!
Jack I shoot all sports football and volleyball currently. I just got a Nikon 7500 which is a big upgrade from the D3200 I have been using. What lenses would you use in these sports? I have 55-200mm, 70-300mm, 18-55mm.
If I'm not mistaken, all three of those have minimum apertures greater than f2.8. As a result, all three will struggle on night time fields and in dark gyms to give you decent (1/500 or greater) shutter speeds with reasonable ISOs. During daylight, the 55-200 or the 70-300 should be fine. I would think the 18-55 would be too short. If you're really serious about indoor and night time sports photography, I recommend getting a 70-200/2.8. I'd trade in your two longer lenses to get that.
@@JackBeasleyMedia what about indoors for volleyball and basketball?
Same thing - that 70-200. It's the perfect indoor sports lens. It'll be a bit short on the long end for field sports, but at least you'll have a fighting chance with shutter speeds.
@@JackBeasleyMedia ok thanks for the information.
Shooting soccer and beating my head, half the shots are good and half oof:( I shoot with a canon 6D Mark I, 70-200 mm- usually set it at 1/1250, iso 350-400 depending on time of day and placement of sun, f3.2. AI- Servo mode, continuous, changed from center single focus point to up a few spots, this camera doesn't have too many points to pick. I am still struggling and am thankful for this video and am going to try it this afternoon at our game. Thank You:)
I didn’t mention it in the video, but it’s important to let the camera get a lock before you fire the shutter. There have been plenty of times, even with my pro-level camera, that when I start banging frames before it gets a lock, those first couple are out of focus. Soccer is hard - the ball is constantly moving and it’s hard to predict be here it will go.
Don't beat yourself up. The 6D has many benefits, but fast focus acquisition is not one of them. I tried to shoot football with it and it was hit and miss. You can definitely work around it with great technique, but it's not a natural action shooter.
Center point is only decent focus point for sports on 6D Mark I
Great video! Quick question re: the AF-C priority selection options. You have a higher end Nikon, so you have the option to set it for: release, focus + release, release + focus, or focus. I have a Nikon D 7500 so I only have two options: release or focus. I am using all of your other settings for my sports photography. Since I cannot choose your recommended option, Would you recommend I set mine as release or focus?
I think I would try both and see how the results play out. Try them in similar shooting situations - say, first half of the game in one mode, second half in the other, and see if there is a difference in the number that comes out sharp. A lot of this is experimentation with settings and seeing what works best for you and your gear.
I’m a beginner photographer and use a Nikon D700 but for some reason whenever I go into the menu the options to change to AF-C and other things are greyed out and won’t let me change them, anyone have any tips on how I can fix this? I’ve tried resetting but nothing seems to change
It's tough to tell without looking at your set up. It might be a lens issue. Have you tried a different lens on it?
Great video. I use every one of the points you went through. I do have to say though, I'm a Canon shooter and the AF tracking/eye tracking on at least the R6 is phenomenal. Obviously, distance makes a difference, but for the most part it'll keep the eye very well. As well as differentiate between animals and people. I agree completely with BBF, I'll never go back. Good stuff Jack!
Thanks! Yes, I've heard good things about the R6.
Loving my R6!
HI Jack
I'm yet to put your tips to use but I think they will be game changing for me! Great stuff! Im a d610 user with Tamron 70-200mm, I have used the SP mode prior, yes without BBF - but will change that immediately...., AFC- 4 points, will also change to jpeg. Looking forward to seeing my progress. PS Im predominately a Real Estate Photographer but super enjoy Australian Rules Football...
Thank you again
Good luck!
Masked ... LOL
UNFORTUNATELY YOU AREN'T SHOWING WHERE THE BUTTONS ARE. CANT SEE THE BACKBUTTON
It’s different on every make and model of camera. For most Nikon cameras it’s called “AF-On”. In some cases, you have to assign that function to a button in the setup menu.