Thanks for watching this video! I hope it helped you out, or at least gave you a different perspective on camera settings. In photography, there are often multiple ways to get the effect you are looking for. One thing I didn't talk about here was the concept of controlling two factors at once. For example, you manually set shutter and aperture and let ISO automate (as I like to do in low light situations). Or, you set aperture and ISO and let shutter speed automate, as I like to do during bright, daylight conditions.
I’ve watched a lot of videos and read articles on Nikon settings for shooting sports, and this is hands-down one of the best, most concise videos I’ve seen! Thank you so much! Looking forward to shooting lacrosse tomorrow night with my new settings 🥍
Jack, I cannot begin to tell you how thankful I am to you for not playing music backgrounds while you made this video. I can only hope that all you tubers will stop playing background music while they are talking through their videos or at least UA-cam installs a button so that the viewer can click off the background music. Thank you again so very, very much!!!
Jack, thank you for these wonderful videos. I am a dad with two daughters playing volleyball, HS & MS. I appreciate the specific content you provide for specific sports. Working toward being a better photographer and upping my game in sports specifically. All my best and thank you for your channel.
Hi Jack, the video tutorial is great! I own a Nikon D5 and Nikon D6 as a photojournalist. Your explanations are very clear and to the point, and they definitely helped me despite my years of experience. I definitely adopted some of your recommendations and loved the results!
Thank you so much for the settings. I shoot with a nightclub and D 700 and I tested them out on my 1st football practice. I landed a high school contract because of it.
@@percymoore833 I recently picked up a Z6ii to supplement my D5 and Z9, getting used for wide-angle lenses while the other two cover mid-range and super-telephoto ranges. I think the Z6ii falls into the "good" category for sports or wildlife photography, and "excellent" for just about everything else. I say that because the autofocus isn't as fast as the "pro" cameras. However, since you're moving up from a crop-frame camera, I would consider it a very good step into sports photography. And, I know a couple pros who are using it with success.
Jack...great vid (like all of them) An old fashion and glamour photographer now photographing HS basketball (grandkids)...it's like learning a new language! Getting better and better every week with your help! Thanks for canon explanations...
this was so helpfull... started a year ago with sports and used your tips. this helped me to avoid a lot of trial and error (or at least more than would have). of course I tried differrent ideas during the year but just saw this video again and to my surprise realise I'm still comming back to most of these setting with my D5600... so thanks a lot for a Belgian hobby-photographer
God bless you sir. Tomorrow i'm photographing my first game ever Nikon D300 with an old Nikkor 70-210 😂 You've helped a lot, I hope I have successfully implemented your & others advises to my current platform. With experience comes the rest with god help 😉
Great video! By far one of the best addressing camera setup for sports. One question though. With respect to the standard picture style, I noticed the asterisk indicating you made some adjustments to the defaults. May I ask what you changed?
Thank you for the video. This is February 2nd, 2022 and I am getting my Nikon D5 today. I traded my Nikon Z6ii for the D5. I always wanted a flagship camera so I opted to even bypass the Nikon Z9 My wife loves shooting Sony so I am getting her the Sony a7Riii with a 24-200mm Tamron lens Anyhow, do you have more videos you can guide me towards on the D5? I would love to see more. I like your explanation on the D5 video I just watched. Thank you 🙏
I don't have any specifically on the D5, although it's mentioned regularly throughout my videos and it's my demonstrator for videos related to camera settings.
Jack, thanks so much for this and other videos. This must be the third one I've watched. Am doing baseball photography with a Canon R6, so this and the one where you took us through 'from start to finish' were stellar. Will watch more. Are you going to try to shoot the World Baseball Classic round in Phoenix next March? Thanks, again.
Very good. I am new to sports photography and this was very useful, thank you. I have been trying to do some race horse photography and had a good spot, focus was difficult...I think your daylight setting of open aperture was interesting, do you not lose depth of field. Thank you. Gary 🇬🇧
Thanks. I didn't know Nikon has flicker reduction for photos. One stadium in our county is just horrible with flickering field lights (I think they wired each pole to one phase each so it's like a disco when shooting sports) - I will try it out. I always look for anything that removes steps from post process. One example is the D6 4x5 mode which I crop to anyway. WB I set to the lights because it's relatively easy with the right diffuser and that saves steps. I like raw to get the shadow detail from the great bit depth, but thanks for the tip about D Lighting perhaps doing this on jpeg creation in the camera.
Excellent video Jack. Thank you for all the info! 😉 As track/soccer are about to begin, i will definitely try taking pics without Optical Stabilization… sometimes my images are out of focus (Sony A9ii) which drives me insane…
Hey Jack - Do you find that using the 9-Point AF mode will accidentally jump to the wrong player in sports like football, soccer, and basketball? Also, which metering modes do you prefer for day vs. night games?
Great video Jack. I’m new to photography. I generally shoot my kids playing sports during the day. I like to use Manual mode. Can I apply most of what you said in this video to daytime also? I remember you mostly referred to nighttime when you were talking about the advanced settings. What are your ISO settings during daytime with most or full sun? I use ISO sensitivity of 100, Auto control on, min shutter of 1000. It seems to work for me. What do you set your max sensitivity? Thanks again!!
During bright daylight, I actually prefer aperture priority (with lens aperture wide open or one stop down) with ISO fixed at 200. Shutter speed floats on auto. That normally keeps shutter speeds high enough to stop action.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I wish I could do that. I bought the z50 kit and my bigger lens is 50/250 and 4.5-6.3 so when I select aperture priority I can’t get the aperture open enough to get a high enough shutter speed. Does that make sense or am I doing something wrong?
I liked, I hit subscribe. I would like to add that with todays high MP cameras turning VR off can help but the "double rule should be increased to 3x since those HMP cameras show all flaws in technique. I also tweaked SD to plus 6 but added +1 to contrast. I find that (hate saying this) shooting mode "A" was most pleasing but "A" means it could pick any mode so now, I tried to match the results in standard (+6 sharp, +1 contrast) which seems to have worked. I also was displeased with AF missing so I recalibrated my lens (24-120) to my camera (D850) and gave it a -6 which seems to match the phase detection of live view, this has solved many issues I was having.
Love the video. What's the best settings for fast moving motorcycle photography. I have just got the d4s and have had d5600 ; to this. What AF settings is the best as well as what settings would help get sharp pics. I am using manual mode, auto iso, bbf and tamron 150-600mm G2 lens.. Thanks...
Motorsports are not my thing, however, I'm guessing you should be shooting at least 1/2000 during the day. Also, try panning at slower speeds to show the speed of the vehicle. There are several UA-cam videos out there on the subject.
Thanks for this. Video it was very good i do a variety of events on plain day light as parades ,church events,weddings, but i been having little issues with sun light at peak how can i correct this problem, can u help?
Thanks for watching! The ways to deal with harsh daylight and shadows include putting your subject in the shade, using fill flash, keeping the sun to your back and your subject facing the sun, or finally, learning to edit images that bring out the shadow areas (which is a whole technique in and of itself).
Hi Jack! Currently I'm shooting high school soccer and baseball under the lights.My shots have a bit too much contrast. My "Picture Control' is set to Standard. What can I do to help bring down the contrast?
What format are you using? RAW or JPEG? If you’re shooting jpeg, it’ll be a little more contrasty from the start. You could switch to a “flat” profile. If you shoot RAW, it’ll give you more wiggle room the editing process.
Appreciate this video, great stuff! Thank you. Thinking that when you said: “95 percent of it is not really necessarily applicable to … “ you meant something else. More like proprietary or specific to the D5.
I agree with your settings and find most sports and wildlife photographers use them. I have heard some photographers mention that using VR can slow focusing down, and that the camera actually creates some movement within camera to counteract the photographers potential camera shake, and that it could potentially add movement and cause more blur by creating counteractive movement. I don't know the exact physics behind it or have I tested it out, but it dies make sense. A few have said with newer higher end cameras that leaving VR on, even on tripod won't really cause problem as when shooting landscapes. I don't trully know if the cameras, when using VR, create counteractive movement when detecting camera shake or do it on all pictures and not detecting movement. If you or anyone out there has anything they know about this, then I would love to here about it.
Hello. Lots of great information in this video. I do have a couple of questions. One on the picture control setting when you are on the standard picture control you say you set the sharpness to +6. Where can I find that option? Second shoes the active d lighting add grain to th image? Thank you.
Hi. I am new to the D5. Was asked to take videos of Australian Aussie Rules Football. When I used my d780, I had AFC with shutter held halfway down throughout the video. Do you suggest I do that with the D5 or is there a better way? Would auto focus on, button next to shutter speed do the same? Love your videos
To be honest, I don't like to shoot video with Nikon DSLRs because the autofocus is all over the map. I ended up buying a Sony mirrorless camera for that purpose. But to your question, have you tried using back button focus instead of the shutter button? Also, you can use the Live View feature and touch the screen to track the subject.
@@JackBeasleyMedia will give the back button focus a go. Thanks. I also use live view but too many players on the field for focus tracking. Love your work
Hello Jack. I have a Nikon D3200 and a 70-200mm F/2.8 Nikkor lens for soccer. I'm a beginner. I've practiced a bit at night using your night sports settings. And although i'm getting good shots, albeit grainy, I feel the D3200 is limiting the ability of the lens. Is it possible to get pretty close to professional shots with that body? ISO is set to auto.
While a more sophisticated (and expensive) camera makes getting good shots easier, it’s still possible to get great photos with what you have. I would keep practicing and do some during the day when you camera has a better chance of performing well.
Hey my friend, long time no chat. I'm saving up for the Z8. I have the Z5. Still shooting with my D700 for football at the moments. Any tips on the Z5 for night time shooting?
Thanks for watching! It’s the same advice I’d give for any camera - lens aperture wide open, shutter speed at 1/1000 to stop action, ISO to match the light available. Shoot RAW and use your editing software’s built in noise reduction software.
Hi, Jack. I have a D850 and while it's not on the same par as the D5/D6, I want to use it for motorsports photography. How would you modify your settings outlined in the video to use in the D850? Thanks.
I sold my D850, so I don't have one to look at it, but as I recall, the menus were very similar to the D5. I don't think I'd modify it much, if at all. Although to be honest, motorsports aren't my specialty. I wonder if the D850 autofocus can keep up with cars/motorcycles coming straight at you.
If shooting action, why would one choose aperture priority? especially in conjunction with auto-ISO (that allows 2 moving targets in my exposure)...when I shoot action, the most important thing to me is controlling my shutter. I need that 1/1000 or faster, or slower, say, if shooting motorsports...but I need that control. In AP, I would be choosing my DOF over my shutter control! I am one of those "manual purists" as I control all 3 settings but I have on occasion shot "manual" w/auto-ISO. Both the shutter and aperture are just so important to me.
Yeah, I agree that you wouldn't necessarily need to have both aperture priority and Auto ISO at the same time. However, with the camera wide open (or nearly), and the minimum ISO at 200 as I said in the video, my shutter speeds are always above 1/1000. Usually, they're up around 1/2000 or higher. Thanks for the comment!
Generally, in bright sunlight, I'll set the aperture to wide open (or maybe one stop down) and the ISO to 200. The resulting shutter speeds are quite high at that point - well beyond my normal minimum 1/1000. If it gets overcast and cloudy, the sun is setting, or the subjects are in deep shadow - yes, you have to ensure your shutter speeds are staying high enough to catch the action. At that point, I generally switch it up and go manual shutter speed and aperture and let the ISO float automatically.
I'm not good with all of the menus and buttons on my camera. Where/how do I find the Focus mode/AF-area mode on the camera? I'm trying to change the settings but can't get to them. Thanks!
It all depends on the make and model of your camera. The first thing I'd look for is a button that says "menu". Then, something related to "AF" or "autofocus" settings. You may have to do some scrolling through menus to find it. If you don't have the owner's manual, you can probably find it available for download from your camera's manufacturer.
If I had to choose between the two, I’d go with the 4s. Having said that, be sure you’re shooting with f2.8 glass. They may struggle on some badly lit fields.
In regards to AUTO ISO settings. Why do you have the minimum shutter speed set to AUTO? Shouldn't this be 1/1000? If you are in A mode you are going to get shots with shutter speeds to long as the camera slows the value in order to reduce ISO.
Thank you. I googled picture styles. I have prob bout 30 some files. I load onto my user defined picture styles and check them out. Found some nice ones. Ones cinestyle. Looks grayish but it’s supposed to be the best for editing.
Why then you buy a VR II. There is e.g. a model tele 80-200 2.8 without VR at all. It’s was mine for 6 years - 30% pictures were blurry. Now I have VR II - no one. And why do u need a D-lighting and another (vinyeting, diffraction) when u shoot in RAW 😅😅😅
@@HenryT5 That video is three years old and camera tech has improved significantly since then. The advice I’d give now is different than what I gave then. Also, some photo editors actually read those settings in their RAW editors and apply it upon import.
Thanks for watching this video! I hope it helped you out, or at least gave you a different perspective on camera settings. In photography, there are often multiple ways to get the effect you are looking for. One thing I didn't talk about here was the concept of controlling two factors at once. For example, you manually set shutter and aperture and let ISO automate (as I like to do in low light situations). Or, you set aperture and ISO and let shutter speed automate, as I like to do during bright, daylight conditions.
Thank you so much
I’ve watched a lot of videos and read articles on Nikon settings for shooting sports, and this is hands-down one of the best, most concise videos I’ve seen! Thank you so much! Looking forward to shooting lacrosse tomorrow night with my new settings 🥍
Wow! Thank you, glad you like it!
Jack, I cannot begin to tell you how thankful I am to you for not playing music backgrounds while you made this video. I can only hope that all you tubers will stop playing background music while they are talking through their videos or at least UA-cam installs a button so that the viewer can click off the background music. Thank you again so very, very much!!!
Thanks! I did one time in one video and I got so many negative comments and I never did it again!
Jack, thank you for these wonderful videos. I am a dad with two daughters playing volleyball, HS & MS. I appreciate the specific content you provide for specific sports. Working toward being a better photographer and upping my game in sports specifically. All my best and thank you for your channel.
Thanks for the kind words, and good luck!
@@JackBeasleyMedia, thank you! See you back on the channel soon.
Hi Jack, the video tutorial is great! I own a Nikon D5 and Nikon D6 as a photojournalist. Your explanations are very clear and to the point, and they definitely helped me despite my years of experience. I definitely adopted some of your recommendations and loved the results!
Nice!
Thank you so much for the settings. I shoot with a nightclub and D 700 and I tested them out on my 1st football practice. I landed a high school contract because of it.
Congratulations!
@@JackBeasleyMedia I've been looking at the Z models. I lime what I see with the Z6 2. What is your thoughts for shooting football with it?
@@percymoore833 I recently picked up a Z6ii to supplement my D5 and Z9, getting used for wide-angle lenses while the other two cover mid-range and super-telephoto ranges. I think the Z6ii falls into the "good" category for sports or wildlife photography, and "excellent" for just about everything else. I say that because the autofocus isn't as fast as the "pro" cameras. However, since you're moving up from a crop-frame camera, I would consider it a very good step into sports photography. And, I know a couple pros who are using it with success.
You are a Saint. This video helped me set my new Nikon D4
Terrific! I'm glad I could help.
Jack...great vid (like all of them) An old fashion and glamour photographer now photographing HS basketball (grandkids)...it's like learning a new language! Getting better and better every week with your help! Thanks for canon explanations...
Thanks for watching!
this was so helpfull... started a year ago with sports and used your tips. this helped me to avoid a lot of trial and error (or at least more than would have). of course I tried differrent ideas during the year but just saw this video again and to my surprise realise I'm still comming back to most of these setting with my D5600... so thanks a lot for a Belgian hobby-photographer
Thanks for watching!
Excellent! I’m using these setting tonight on my D850 to shoot football. TY!
Fantastic! Thank you very much. Very well explained, great graphics, nice pace, all around excellent video. Very much appreciated!
Really useful thanks, I'm applying these settings to my D4 with great results.
Great!
God bless you sir.
Tomorrow i'm photographing my first game ever
Nikon D300 with an old Nikkor 70-210 😂 You've helped a lot, I hope I have successfully implemented your & others advises to my current platform.
With experience comes the rest with god help 😉
Best of luck!
Hi Jack. Thanks for sharing these tips. Great video. I am just about to explore sports photography and see how it goes.
Thanks and good luck!
Jack - very useful information. Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your wisdom
Thank you!
This is really helpful, thanks!
thanks for this video Jack!!! you give top information !!!
Thanks!
Great video! By far one of the best addressing camera setup for sports. One question though. With respect to the standard picture style, I noticed the asterisk indicating you made some adjustments to the defaults. May I ask what you changed?
Sharpening 6, contrast +2, saturation +2
Very nicely explained ... Thank you
Glad you liked it
Thank you for the video. This is February 2nd, 2022 and I am getting my Nikon D5 today. I traded my Nikon Z6ii for the D5. I always wanted a flagship camera so I opted to even bypass the Nikon Z9
My wife loves shooting Sony so I am getting her the Sony a7Riii with a 24-200mm Tamron lens
Anyhow, do you have more videos you can guide me towards on the D5? I would love to see more. I like your explanation on the D5 video I just watched. Thank you 🙏
I don't have any specifically on the D5, although it's mentioned regularly throughout my videos and it's my demonstrator for videos related to camera settings.
Good video. Very informative. Thank you
Thanks!
Great tutorial ...,
thank you!
Jack, thanks so much for this and other videos. This must be the third one I've watched. Am doing baseball photography with a Canon R6, so this and the one where you took us through 'from start to finish' were stellar. Will watch more. Are you going to try to shoot the World Baseball Classic round in Phoenix next March? Thanks, again.
Thanks for watching!
Very good. I am new to sports photography and this was very useful, thank you. I have been trying to do some race horse photography and had a good spot, focus was difficult...I think your daylight setting of open aperture was interesting, do you not lose depth of field. Thank you. Gary 🇬🇧
Thank you, Jack!
Thanks. I didn't know Nikon has flicker reduction for photos. One stadium in our county is just horrible with flickering field lights (I think they wired each pole to one phase each so it's like a disco when shooting sports) - I will try it out. I always look for anything that removes steps from post process. One example is the D6 4x5 mode which I crop to anyway. WB I set to the lights because it's relatively easy with the right diffuser and that saves steps. I like raw to get the shadow detail from the great bit depth, but thanks for the tip about D Lighting perhaps doing this on jpeg creation in the camera.
Excellent video Jack. Thank you for all the info! 😉 As track/soccer are about to begin, i will definitely try taking pics without Optical Stabilization… sometimes my images are out of focus (Sony A9ii) which drives me insane…
Have fun!
Thank you! Help me a lot!
Sure thing!
Hey Jack - Do you find that using the 9-Point AF mode will accidentally jump to the wrong player in sports like football, soccer, and basketball? Also, which metering modes do you prefer for day vs. night games?
No, I don’t find that problem with 9-point. It sometimes happens with the eye-tracking modes. I use “matrix” for everything, night or day.
@@JackBeasleyMedia - Got it, thank you!
Thank you so much
Great video Jack. I’m new to photography. I generally shoot my kids playing sports during the day. I like to use Manual mode. Can I apply most of what you said in this video to daytime also? I remember you mostly referred to nighttime when you were talking about the advanced settings. What are your ISO settings during daytime with most or full sun? I use ISO sensitivity of 100, Auto control on, min shutter of 1000. It seems to work for me. What do you set your max sensitivity? Thanks again!!
During bright daylight, I actually prefer aperture priority (with lens aperture wide open or one stop down) with ISO fixed at 200. Shutter speed floats on auto. That normally keeps shutter speeds high enough to stop action.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I wish I could do that. I bought the z50 kit and my bigger lens is 50/250 and 4.5-6.3 so when I select aperture priority I can’t get the aperture open enough to get a high enough shutter speed. Does that make sense or am I doing something wrong?
@@bruce922 Try setting your ISO higher, like 500. I have a 200-500/5.6 I use on aperture priority all the time.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I must be doing something wrong. I set my ISO to 500, Focal at 4.5 and I’m at 1.3”. If I zoom to Focal 6.3 my shutter is at 4”.
Yeah, I don’t know what’s going on there. Something is definitely not set right. Exposure comp way out of wack?
I liked, I hit subscribe. I would like to add that with todays high MP cameras turning VR off can help but the "double rule should be increased to 3x since those HMP cameras show all flaws in technique.
I also tweaked SD to plus 6 but added +1 to contrast. I find that (hate saying this) shooting mode "A" was most pleasing but "A" means it could pick any mode so now, I tried to match the results in standard (+6 sharp, +1 contrast) which seems to have worked.
I also was displeased with AF missing so I recalibrated my lens (24-120) to my camera (D850) and gave it a -6 which seems to match the phase detection of live view, this has solved many issues I was having.
Nikon removed D9 from the d500.. we only have single group and or D25. for the lowest.
Group then
Love the video. What's the best settings for fast moving motorcycle photography. I have just got the d4s and have had d5600 ; to this. What AF settings is the best as well as what settings would help get sharp pics. I am using manual mode, auto iso, bbf and tamron 150-600mm G2 lens.. Thanks...
Motorsports are not my thing, however, I'm guessing you should be shooting at least 1/2000 during the day. Also, try panning at slower speeds to show the speed of the vehicle. There are several UA-cam videos out there on the subject.
Very informative video. if shooting horseracing, would you use shutter priority or manual mode? Also, would SP 1000 BE ADEQUATE for horse racing?
You could do either. Personally, I like to control the shutter speed and the aperture to get the effects I want, and let the ISO go automatic
Thanks for this. Video it was very good i do a variety of events on plain day light as parades ,church events,weddings, but i been having little issues with sun light at peak how can i correct this problem, can u help?
Thanks for watching! The ways to deal with harsh daylight and shadows include putting your subject in the shade, using fill flash, keeping the sun to your back and your subject facing the sun, or finally, learning to edit images that bring out the shadow areas (which is a whole technique in and of itself).
Hi Jack! Currently I'm shooting high school soccer and baseball under the lights.My shots have a bit too much contrast. My "Picture Control' is set to Standard. What can I do to help bring down the contrast?
What format are you using? RAW or JPEG? If you’re shooting jpeg, it’ll be a little more contrasty from the start. You could switch to a “flat” profile. If you shoot RAW, it’ll give you more wiggle room the editing process.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I'm shooting jpeg. Under 'Set Picture Control' I have it set on 'Standard'.
this is great
Thanks!
This helped, thank you! I’m new to Nikon, so how do you access the autofocus setting? I got lost during that section.😅
It depends on your model of camera. But on most of the ones I've used, it's menu > custom setting menu > autofocus
Appreciate this video, great stuff! Thank you. Thinking that when you said: “95 percent of it is not really necessarily applicable to … “ you meant something else. More like proprietary or specific to the D5.
Yes, I believe so.
I agree with your settings and find most sports and wildlife photographers use them. I have heard some photographers mention that using VR can slow focusing down, and that the camera actually creates some movement within camera to counteract the photographers potential camera shake, and that it could potentially add movement and cause more blur by creating counteractive movement. I don't know the exact physics behind it or have I tested it out, but it dies make sense. A few have said with newer higher end cameras that leaving VR on, even on tripod won't really cause problem as when shooting landscapes. I don't trully know if the cameras, when using VR, create counteractive movement when detecting camera shake or do it on all pictures and not detecting movement. If you or anyone out there has anything they know about this, then I would love to here about it.
Hello. Lots of great information in this video. I do have a couple of questions. One on the picture control setting when you are on the standard picture control you say you set the sharpness to +6. Where can I find that option? Second shoes the active d lighting add grain to th image? Thank you.
Thanks for watching! Assuming you’re using a Nikon camera, it’s in the photo shooting menu. Scroll down to “set picture control”.
Hi. I am new to the D5. Was asked to take videos of Australian Aussie Rules Football. When I used my d780, I had AFC with shutter held halfway down throughout the video. Do you suggest I do that with the D5 or is there a better way? Would auto focus on, button next to shutter speed do the same? Love your videos
To be honest, I don't like to shoot video with Nikon DSLRs because the autofocus is all over the map. I ended up buying a Sony mirrorless camera for that purpose. But to your question, have you tried using back button focus instead of the shutter button? Also, you can use the Live View feature and touch the screen to track the subject.
@@JackBeasleyMedia will give the back button focus a go. Thanks. I also use live view but too many players on the field for focus tracking. Love your work
Hello Jack. I have a Nikon D3200 and a 70-200mm F/2.8 Nikkor lens for soccer. I'm a beginner. I've practiced a bit at night using your night sports settings. And although i'm getting good shots, albeit grainy, I feel the D3200 is limiting the ability of the lens. Is it possible to get pretty close to professional shots with that body? ISO is set to auto.
While a more sophisticated (and expensive) camera makes getting good shots easier, it’s still possible to get great photos with what you have. I would keep practicing and do some during the day when you camera has a better chance of performing well.
Hey my friend, long time no chat. I'm saving up for the Z8. I have the Z5. Still shooting with my D700 for football at the moments. Any tips on the Z5 for night time shooting?
Thanks for watching! It’s the same advice I’d give for any camera - lens aperture wide open, shutter speed at 1/1000 to stop action, ISO to match the light available. Shoot RAW and use your editing software’s built in noise reduction software.
@JackBeasleyMedia Kinda thought so. I see your shooting with the Z9 now. A friend of mine has one. It's AWESOME!
@JackBeasleyMedia Cool brother. You ROCK man!
Hi, Jack. I have a D850 and while it's not on the same par as the D5/D6, I want to use it for motorsports photography. How would you modify your settings outlined in the video to use in the D850? Thanks.
I sold my D850, so I don't have one to look at it, but as I recall, the menus were very similar to the D5. I don't think I'd modify it much, if at all. Although to be honest, motorsports aren't my specialty. I wonder if the D850 autofocus can keep up with cars/motorcycles coming straight at you.
If shooting action, why would one choose aperture priority? especially in conjunction with auto-ISO (that allows 2 moving targets in my exposure)...when I shoot action, the most important thing to me is controlling my shutter. I need that 1/1000 or faster, or slower, say, if shooting motorsports...but I need that control. In AP, I would be choosing my DOF over my shutter control! I am one of those "manual purists" as I control all 3 settings but I have on occasion shot "manual" w/auto-ISO. Both the shutter and aperture are just so important to me.
Yeah, I agree that you wouldn't necessarily need to have both aperture priority and Auto ISO at the same time. However, with the camera wide open (or nearly), and the minimum ISO at 200 as I said in the video, my shutter speeds are always above 1/1000. Usually, they're up around 1/2000 or higher. Thanks for the comment!
Why aperture priority during daytime sporting events? How do you ensure that your shutter doesn't drop to low resulting in image blur?
Generally, in bright sunlight, I'll set the aperture to wide open (or maybe one stop down) and the ISO to 200. The resulting shutter speeds are quite high at that point - well beyond my normal minimum 1/1000. If it gets overcast and cloudy, the sun is setting, or the subjects are in deep shadow - yes, you have to ensure your shutter speeds are staying high enough to catch the action. At that point, I generally switch it up and go manual shutter speed and aperture and let the ISO float automatically.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thank you Sir.
You're welcome!
I'm not good with all of the menus and buttons on my camera. Where/how do I find the Focus mode/AF-area mode on the camera? I'm trying to change the settings but can't get to them. Thanks!
It all depends on the make and model of your camera. The first thing I'd look for is a button that says "menu". Then, something related to "AF" or "autofocus" settings. You may have to do some scrolling through menus to find it. If you don't have the owner's manual, you can probably find it available for download from your camera's manufacturer.
Jack is a the D4 or D4S good for shooting sports like high school football in 2021
If I had to choose between the two, I’d go with the 4s. Having said that, be sure you’re shooting with f2.8 glass. They may struggle on some badly lit fields.
In regards to AUTO ISO settings. Why do you have the minimum shutter speed set to AUTO? Shouldn't this be 1/1000? If you are in A mode you are going to get shots with shutter speeds to long as the camera slows the value in order to reduce ISO.
On my standard sharpness isn’t changeable. Strength is right under it. Should I set to 6? Canon T7i
I'm not familiar with the Canon T7i, so it's hard for me to give an informed opinion.
Thank you. I googled picture styles. I have prob bout 30 some files. I load onto my user defined picture styles and check them out. Found some nice ones. Ones cinestyle. Looks grayish but it’s supposed to be the best for editing.
Does flicker reduction reduce the number of frames per second?
If it does, I haven't noticed. It might be so minuscule a difference that I don't perceive it.
Why then you buy a VR II. There is e.g. a model tele 80-200 2.8 without VR at all. It’s was mine for 6 years - 30% pictures were blurry. Now I have VR II - no one. And why do u need a D-lighting and another (vinyeting, diffraction) when u shoot in RAW 😅😅😅
@@HenryT5 That video is three years old and camera tech has improved significantly since then. The advice I’d give now is different than what I gave then. Also, some photo editors actually read those settings in their RAW editors and apply it upon import.
Auto ISO, JPEG and Auto White balance for an inside gymnasium…. How can anything be easier to manipulate in post process when you are shooting JPEG?
As long as all that "auto" works right!