Great question! Yes. It has a gas chamber BELOW this one we're packing with grease. This upper one is just to give support cyclically. The lower gas filled chamber provides the vertical movement or stroke dampening.
Great video! One little tip: I'm sure the strut tube is quite thin, but it is still a good habit to turn a tap 1/4 back for every 1/2 turn of progress to prevent shavings from jamming. I have seen too many taps break from people forgetting this and forgetting to lubricate while cutting threads. Keep the great vids coming!
Brian, I just bought my 3rd wrx after a brief stint in owning a few BMW's. I cannont express how much I appreciate your videos, they are amazing. Thanks man.
Brian I have to thank you for this tip. I was ready to take the rear shocks and replace the upper mounts. Cause thats what bad upper mounts sound like. I actually did the repair on the car with out removing the struts. Cleaned off the drilled hole and tapped it. Add a grease fitting and all is well. No more nose thanks again.
Thanks for the great video. I bought a 2004 STI with low miles that sat under a car cover for a couple of years and the rear struts rode like I had 2x4s for struts. I pulled them out and did this and what a difference! Not hard other than getting the 2 lower 19mm bolts out. Makes a huge difference in handling and ride quality!
When you're tapping holes, try turning it about a half turn at a time, then turn it back the other direction a quarter- to a half- turn to break the chip (the bit of metal being cut), then proceed forward a full turn etc, etc. The turning back breaks off the chip formed by turning it forward. Shorter chips = less friction, less heat, better threads, less likely to break off the tap in the hole, and your tap will stay sharper longer.
wingman358 or tap it with a 1/4" impact wrench. I do this all the time with 3/16 all the way up to 1/2 inch taps. in steel up to 1/2 inch thick. make sure you use cutting paste, the thick stuff. no the tap will not break. pull the trigger all the way and stop when the tap starts slowing down. reverse a little then go for it again. add cutting paste every so often. we do this with 18 volt quarter inch impact wrenches. you'll just have to buy the adapter for the tap.
I have the same rear left clunk sound from the suspension, my mechanic couldn't find the problem, I will show this video to him... mine it's a 2007 STi, thanks for the video!
You're welcome. I generally don't do the assembly part because it's redundant and basically the same as tear down. On Google analytics it shows viewers just watch the tear down/fix and drop off.
@MasterIronfist Refilling the grease works great and it's easy thereafter. Depending on how thick the grease is you use it keeps it quiet 10K miles to 65K miles.
Wow man, that was a very cool vid, and I liked the no-nonsense explanations. I don't have an STi, I have a Legacy GT so this doesn't apply to my car, but I often revert to UA-cam for DIYs and How-to's and stuff (in fact, I just did my brakes tonight using a UA-cam vid, as I have an STi brake conversion). Your vid is what the internet is all about. Props!
@gn3ricc They have a design flaw. There's play where there shouldn't be. The grease creates hydraulic pressure like the track tensioner on a mini-excavator.
Great video Broskie. You are one of the most helpful guys out there making easy to follow instructional videos for repair. Thank you so much! I tell everyone I know that needs help with vehicle repair to look you up on UA-cam first!
Wow, THAT's what causes the mystery clunking??? I've had this on my stock struts, KYB GR2's and now my brand new coilovers. Not sure I'll be able to do this on the coilovers but definitely good to know.
@Subypowa Something thick is best. I used synthetic Marine grade grease and it was a little too thin in that it was thinner than the factory stuff and only lasted 8 months before it had to be greased again. Yes it's easy and only five seconds to fix, but thicker grease would be better.
cheers mate saved me some dosh,really appresiate all your stuff.been ripped thousands from garages.scooby clinic in chesure nicked my stuff n billed me 4 grand or loose car.ten grand bill so i do it myself now.warning to others in uk.thanx again
Just to add a little to this. It's recommended to take out as much of the old grease as possible. The grease from the factory isn't very good quality and it turns into a wax rather than a grease. So even when the piston inside goes up and down, when the "Wax" gives way from a rested position, it will cause this clunk as well. This car in this video is my car, and it still had some clunking (Not as bad as before), So I ended up getting Coilovers about 10k miles after this was done.
Great video! I have an 04 STI and have that clunk in the rear. The car only has 40k and is in imaculate shape but it was under a cover for the last 2 yrs before I bought it. At least I know now that it isn't anything serious and I can fix it. Thanks!
@ma7mody Yes, but fair warning if you drill to deep whatsoever you'll ding the shaft and have to replace the strut. I've done a few, but I still tear them down. I rock climb, skydive, and drive a bullet bike.
My shocks do the knock noise, i change the wheel baling thinking was it, today ride i noticed its the shocks and confirm whit your tutorial, i’ll try on mines e back with feedback. Thank you for your video!
Thanks so much for making this video man. I needed a really good step by step to how to get to the rear struts, and this was the perfect video for the job. Also, cool to learn that caster can cause that knocking sound :)
i had same problem with my 53 scooby,rear passenger side.compress spring,take nut off n put a large washer on n put nut back.common fault n most buy anothershock when its just top nut needs tightening atouch but if no threds left do as ive just said.took me a couple off stripdowns to realize but good fix.hope it helps
Excellent and very helpful video, many thanks! Just bout an '05 WRX Wagon which has the stiff clunk syndrome from the rear. I will be carrying-out this mod shortly.
Awesome info! Really informative. I wasn't even looking for this, it was just a recommended video. Once I get these parts in the engine bay I'm going to "de-klunk" my suspension. Excellent video. Very appreciated.
briansmobile1, your video made replacing rear struts on my 2002 wrx much easier Thank you! For others, my 2002 stock struts are not the inverted style shown in the video. All the tips to get the seat out and the struts apart (nut on top of strut only), priceless. One of my struts was totally shot! Had to O/A torch the bottom strut mounting nuts to break them free. One of my struts had zero damping. I replaced the 73k mi. stock struts with KYB GR-2 struts from rockauto.com (part 334306 & 334307).
Hi, so originally this is prevented by the foam layers inside? would it not be possible to add new foam inserts maybe?And also so I take from what you mention that the gas shock itself stays untouched and by adding the grease you do not interfere with their damping rates?And also do you just keep on filling with grease until you have a return of grease by the grease nipple?
You are the man. Just got some STI KYBs to replace the sealed OEM struts on my 01 WRX and they are just as pokes as my old ones. Wish I had re-greased them before putting them in and getting an alignment. I will definitely be having a go at your re-greasing technique. Two questions though; how deep (long) can your grease circ go before it hits the piston and what grade grease do you use to re-pack it?
Are all subaru suspensions built like this? I have a cluck on my 2009 subaru impreza 2.5i hatch. I have check the bushings, and ball joints. I though it would have been my slightly bent rim but its a very small flat spot. I might have to check this out on my struts.
Hi, awesome vid! Ive been told my struts in my 06 wrx wagon need replacing but they seem to be fine except for that they "clunk" and sometimes "drop" when driving slowly and driving over a small bump in the road. How would I be able to tell if my struts do need to be replaced or if I could just insert a grease tap? Thank you.
hey great video i had both struts replaced by the dealer i bought the car from, even the new ones began to clunk i followed the steps in your video and everything worked out great after i filled them with grease and drove the car for about two days i heard the clunk slightly again. i pumped more grease into the grease fitting and it came out the o-ring where the piston is. did i damage the o-ring?
Great vids anyhow. I made a playlist on my channel, with your vids and others, as I start my endeavor to learn the ins-and-outs of Subaru cars. I picked up a Chilton's Subaru manual the other month and about half way finished with it. Your vids just puts everything in perspective.
I cannot find your video, where you used a pen to mark on metal. I was wondering what type it was? I bought a Dymon Britemark White Marker from northern tools in the welding section. I was wondering if it was the same thing? Hobart No. 770222
great vid i always wondered if there was a fix for the knocking problem , i to have to replace my rear shocks from a sti hawkeye was gonna get coilovers but dont want to harsh a ride so think i`ll try this first cheers brian.
My WRX wagon used to make the same clunking sound. I never thought about doing this because the expensive insurance on that car was more annoying that the constant clunking. Question: Can you reach the grease zerk with the tire on?
Any recommendations on how to do this with coilovers? I'm guessing you'd have to maybe use a hex plug instead of a grease fitting, but not sure if that'd weaken the threads in that area. Also, how often do you find that you have to regrease it? Does the old grease squirt out from somewhere?
Hey Brian, is a repair manual from Subaru any good? I want to learn how to fix my own car and I want a good book to start with. I know that the book from Subaru are really expensive, which I don't mind saving up for. Any advice would be appreciated Thank you..
I think I might be starting to get that clunk in my 06 sti and this video is helpful just in case indeed to put the zerks in to cure the noise. Do you remember if you cleaned out all the old grease and what kind of grease you used to pack it with?
great job I think my rear just started doing this in my 02. :( i assume you need an alignment after this? or can I mark it and save from having to do that? I just did one.
I love it and I'll be doing it shortly on mine, but my only concern is how do you get the old grease out the second time you do it? Seems like it'd have to pop the seal, or are you cleaning it out entirely of old grease and just using the nipple and grease gun to pack it super tight with grease?
Probably the best video you could post for subaru owners! Thank you!
Great question! Yes. It has a gas chamber BELOW this one we're packing with grease. This upper one is just to give support cyclically. The lower gas filled chamber provides the vertical movement or stroke dampening.
Great video! One little tip: I'm sure the strut tube is quite thin, but it is still a good habit to turn a tap 1/4 back for every 1/2 turn of progress to prevent shavings from jamming. I have seen too many taps break from people forgetting this and forgetting to lubricate while cutting threads. Keep the great vids coming!
Its been 5 months so far and the clunk still gone. Thanks once again my friend.
Brian, I just bought my 3rd wrx after a brief stint in owning a few BMW's. I cannont express how much I appreciate your videos, they are amazing.
Thanks man.
You're welcome buddy! More to come.
Brian I have to thank you for this tip. I was ready to take the rear shocks and replace the upper mounts. Cause thats what bad upper mounts sound like. I actually did the repair on the car with out removing the struts. Cleaned off the drilled hole and tapped it. Add a grease fitting and all is well. No more nose thanks again.
Thanks for the great video. I bought a 2004 STI with low miles that sat under a car cover for a couple of years and the rear struts rode like I had 2x4s for struts. I pulled them out and did this and what a difference! Not hard other than getting the 2 lower 19mm bolts out. Makes a huge difference in handling and ride quality!
Mark Barboza a q ? After you done this? Did the car bounce different or bounce more and became annoying ?!
When you're tapping holes, try turning it about a half turn at a time, then turn it back the other direction a quarter- to a half- turn to break the chip (the bit of metal being cut), then proceed forward a full turn etc, etc. The turning back breaks off the chip formed by turning it forward. Shorter chips = less friction, less heat, better threads, less likely to break off the tap in the hole, and your tap will stay sharper longer.
wingman358
or tap it with a 1/4" impact wrench. I do this all the time with 3/16 all the way up to 1/2 inch taps. in steel up to 1/2 inch thick. make sure you use cutting paste, the thick stuff. no the tap will not break. pull the trigger all the way and stop when the tap starts slowing down. reverse a little then go for it again. add cutting paste every so often. we do this with 18 volt quarter inch impact wrenches. you'll just have to buy the adapter for the tap.
2024 and your video has helped my neglected 2007 STI to be clunk free. Thank you sir and top notch tip for the zerk fitting 👍
I was going mad trying to figure out wtf was knocking on my shocks. Thanks man!
I have the same rear left clunk sound from the suspension, my mechanic couldn't find the problem, I will show this video to him... mine it's a 2007 STi, thanks for the video!
Thanks for taking the time to make your videos. This is the third time you've saved me big $$ to keep my baby running smooth!!!
You're welcome. I generally don't do the assembly part because it's redundant and basically the same as tear down. On Google analytics it shows viewers just watch the tear down/fix and drop off.
There's a tab or an allen key hole in the top of the shaft so you can brace the shaft through the center of a box end wrench.
@MasterIronfist Refilling the grease works great and it's easy thereafter. Depending on how thick the grease is you use it keeps it quiet 10K miles to 65K miles.
@schister66 You're welcome. Another good thing to do is two oil trap cans. I just video'd that project today. I'll be posting it in the next week.
@rpc2112 You're welcome. I'm glad you liked it.
I have an 07 wrx and this is exactly what is happening to my left rear. This clip was very helpful and will be doing this, this weekend! Thank you!
Wow man, that was a very cool vid, and I liked the no-nonsense explanations.
I don't have an STi, I have a Legacy GT so this doesn't apply to my car, but I often revert to UA-cam for DIYs and How-to's and stuff (in fact, I just did my brakes tonight using a UA-cam vid, as I have an STi brake conversion).
Your vid is what the internet is all about.
Props!
@gn3ricc They have a design flaw. There's play where there shouldn't be. The grease creates hydraulic pressure like the track tensioner on a mini-excavator.
Great video Broskie. You are one of the most helpful guys out there making easy to follow instructional videos for repair. Thank you so much! I tell everyone I know that needs help with vehicle repair to look you up on UA-cam first!
Wow, THAT's what causes the mystery clunking??? I've had this on my stock struts, KYB GR2's and now my brand new coilovers. Not sure I'll be able to do this on the coilovers but definitely good to know.
@07STiLuke You're welcome.- you'll have to check out the video on the oil catch cans I'm posting this week.
My daughter did it. It's her favorite thing in the world to do.
@Subypowa Something thick is best. I used synthetic Marine grade grease and it was a little too thin in that it was thinner than the factory stuff and only lasted 8 months before it had to be greased again. Yes it's easy and only five seconds to fix, but thicker grease would be better.
No. There's a dead space gap between the outer tube and the inner workings. Just make sure you put the nipple in the right spot (not too low).
@TheAysir I wouldn't be surprised if it did. Post back here if you try it. Let us know.
cheers mate saved me some dosh,really appresiate all your stuff.been ripped thousands from garages.scooby clinic in chesure nicked my stuff n billed me 4 grand or loose car.ten grand bill so i do it myself now.warning to others in uk.thanx again
absolutely awesome. You've saved me (and I'm sure many others) a ton of money. Thank you
Dude, this was a GREAT video. Good level of explanation of what you're doing and talking through your solution. Thumbs up!
Just to add a little to this. It's recommended to take out as much of the old grease as possible. The grease from the factory isn't very good quality and it turns into a wax rather than a grease. So even when the piston inside goes up and down, when the "Wax" gives way from a rested position, it will cause this clunk as well.
This car in this video is my car, and it still had some clunking (Not as bad as before), So I ended up getting Coilovers about 10k miles after this was done.
Caster is correct. Angling the bottom of the suspension forward helps stabilize the rear wheel and reduces stress on suspension linkages.
Great video! I have an 04 STI and have that clunk in the rear. The car only has 40k and is in imaculate shape but it was under a cover for the last 2 yrs before I bought it. At least I know now that it isn't anything serious and I can fix it. Thanks!
@Flaheat Yes, actually you can.
@ma7mody Yes, but fair warning if you drill to deep whatsoever you'll ding the shaft and have to replace the strut. I've done a few, but I still tear them down. I rock climb, skydive, and drive a bullet bike.
My shocks do the knock noise, i change the wheel baling thinking was it, today ride i noticed its the shocks and confirm whit your tutorial, i’ll try on mines e back with feedback.
Thank you for your video!
@NewShockerGuy This one is a loan a tool that I bought from Autozone. It's not great, but it's pretty safe- I like that.
Great video! I follow these instructions yesterday on my 07 STI and it was a very easy repair. Thanks!
Had the same prob over in the uk. Thanks man done this today and fixed my problems
Thanks so much for making this video man. I needed a really good step by step to how to get to the rear struts, and this was the perfect video for the job. Also, cool to learn that caster can cause that knocking sound :)
@sneaks01 You're too kind. And you're welcome.
i had same problem with my 53 scooby,rear passenger side.compress spring,take nut off n put a large washer on n put nut back.common fault n most buy anothershock when its just top nut needs tightening atouch but if no threds left do as ive just said.took me a couple off stripdowns to realize but good fix.hope it helps
@MultiSlee Yep you nailed it! That is a bad strut if it's leaking. Replace it, and maybe do this as a preventative method.
Great video, very thorough and not redundant in the commentary. Good work!
dukeofnyd1 Thanks!
@gn3ricc Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
You're welcome- I love being of service to those who appreciate it!
@acspidey Thanks- hope it goes great for you. That car is way to nice and fun to be clunking eigh?
Excellent and very helpful video, many thanks! Just bout an '05 WRX Wagon which has the stiff clunk syndrome from the rear. I will be carrying-out this mod shortly.
Awesome info! Really informative. I wasn't even looking for this, it was just a recommended video. Once I get these parts in the engine bay I'm going to "de-klunk" my suspension. Excellent video. Very appreciated.
@vvnartvv You're welcome- glad it was helpful to you!
@Subypowa You're most welcome my friend!
You are an awesome mechanic! one handed and all. Thanks man big help.
@1elAguila You're welcome hermano!
@Subypowa You're welcome. Good luck friend!
briansmobile1, your video made replacing rear struts on my 2002 wrx much easier Thank you! For others, my 2002 stock struts are not the inverted style shown in the video. All the tips to get the seat out and the struts apart (nut on top of strut only), priceless. One of my struts was totally shot! Had to O/A torch the bottom strut mounting nuts to break them free. One of my struts had zero damping. I replaced the 73k mi. stock struts with KYB GR-2 struts from rockauto.com (part 334306 & 334307).
@Campos2011 You're welcome.
@zombified313 You're most welcome!
nice vid mate! after 3 years I cant take the clunking anymore!! lol thanks!
I don't know- have it looked at to eliminate sway bar components and control arm bushings etc. first.
This video was very helpful, but do u know if that fix will work on coilovers. I have KWs and they are doing the same thing.
You can get the grease zerk flushed to the hex. Get the thickest grease you can find. Sometimes this means cheaper. ; )
im gng to attemp this today, how much grease doi add on each side ? 3 oz?
Thank you! I just bought an '05 WRX and the noise was terrible.
Hi, so originally this is prevented by the foam layers inside? would it not be possible to add new foam inserts maybe?And also so I take from what you mention that the gas shock itself stays untouched and by adding the grease you do not interfere with their damping rates?And also do you just keep on filling with grease until you have a return of grease by the grease nipple?
man, awesome video. This seems to be a common problem on the right rear. My 06 sti had major clunk with only 70k miles on it. Wish I saw this video
Travis W Thanks Travis!
This is exactly what my 03 wrx is doing... TY you help so much!
You are the man. Just got some STI KYBs to replace the sealed OEM struts on my 01 WRX and they are just as pokes as my old ones. Wish I had re-greased them before putting them in and getting an alignment. I will definitely be having a go at your re-greasing technique. Two questions though; how deep (long) can your grease circ go before it hits the piston and what grade grease do you use to re-pack it?
Thank you, for the video. One of the long list of modifications to do to my cars.
Are all subaru suspensions built like this? I have a cluck on my 2009 subaru impreza 2.5i hatch. I have check the bushings, and ball joints. I though it would have been my slightly bent rim but its a very small flat spot. I might have to check this out on my struts.
very good video how can i tell a clunk strut....and a bad strut cause mine is leaking oil so that mean i have to replace the whole strut right?
@ocb453 Visual inspection and tracing it with your fingers is the best way I know.
What would be your best tips for buying a car?
Hey Brian I have been contemplating doing this, I might takle this next weekend, great job filmimg
Hi what type off grease do you use please?
Thx for the info 👌
thanx i wonder if it will work on my cusco struts
Thanks! Just finished with the zerks on me back two struts. Bout to go back to stock too. Do people also install zerks on the front struts?
Hi, awesome vid! Ive been told my struts in my 06 wrx wagon need replacing but they seem to be fine except for that they "clunk" and sometimes "drop" when driving slowly and driving over a small bump in the road. How would I be able to tell if my struts do need to be replaced or if I could just insert a grease tap? Thank you.
@Seabass20329 You're welcome!
hey great video
i had both struts replaced by the dealer i bought the car from, even the new ones began to clunk
i followed the steps in your video and everything worked out great
after i filled them with grease and drove the car for about two days i heard the clunk slightly again. i pumped more grease into the grease fitting and it came out the o-ring where the piston is. did i damage the o-ring?
@ma7mody You bet- glad to help.
Welcome!
Great vids anyhow. I made a playlist on my channel, with your vids and others, as I start my endeavor to learn the ins-and-outs of Subaru cars. I picked up a Chilton's Subaru manual the other month and about half way finished with it. Your vids just puts everything in perspective.
I cannot find your video, where you used a pen to mark on metal. I was wondering what type it was? I bought a Dymon Britemark White Marker from northern tools in the welding section. I was wondering if it was the same thing? Hobart No. 770222
great vid i always wondered if there was a fix for the knocking problem , i to have to replace my rear shocks from a sti hawkeye was gonna get coilovers but dont want to harsh a ride so think i`ll try this first cheers brian.
STAY TUNED- THIS CAR IS GETTING AN ENGINE REBUILD THIS WEEK.
Hy great video btw what type of grease should I be putting in, anything special?
My WRX wagon used to make the same clunking sound. I never thought about doing this because the expensive insurance on that car was more annoying that the constant clunking. Question: Can you reach the grease zerk with the tire on?
Excellent DIY. I was wondering if you have any recommendations for the type of grease to use.
Your channel is awsome, thanks!!!
Greetings from Ukraine.
Well, now I know what that damn clunking is... Nice DIY! Adding this to my list of things to fix...
Any recommendations on how to do this with coilovers? I'm guessing you'd have to maybe use a hex plug instead of a grease fitting, but not sure if that'd weaken the threads in that area.
Also, how often do you find that you have to regrease it? Does the old grease squirt out from somewhere?
Hey Brian, is a repair manual from Subaru any good? I want to learn how to fix my own car and I want a good book to start with. I know that the book from Subaru are really expensive, which I don't mind saving up for. Any advice would be appreciated Thank you..
Brian my question is how you check the spring it is no broken thans .
I think I might be starting to get that clunk in my 06 sti and this video is helpful just in case indeed to put the zerks in to cure the noise.
Do you remember if you cleaned out all the old grease and what kind of grease you used to pack it with?
@bigpunn421 I couldn't say for sure. You should try it and tell me!
Thanks for the videos man. This one in particular has helped me a ton.
great job I think my rear just started doing this in my 02. :(
i assume you need an alignment after this?
or can I mark it and save from having to do that?
I just did one.
@andrewk157 I haven't done it on the KW's. I'd be curious to know how it goes for you if you try it.
My 2005 sti started knocking on right rear hopefully just needs grease.... is this the most common problem?
Far as I know.
I love it and I'll be doing it shortly on mine, but my only concern is how do you get the old grease out the second time you do it? Seems like it'd have to pop the seal, or are you cleaning it out entirely of old grease and just using the nipple and grease gun to pack it super tight with grease?