Even though i have used HSS a few times, learning more never hurts. The way you teach and explain why things work, it makes so much sense!!! Love the b-roll and your comedy that you add to your videos!!! Awesome work!!!! And thank you!!
Dear Glyn, big thanks for the update. I remember when I first tried your technique, I made the beginner's mistake, exactly as you describe @3:37, the moment I turned on the remote, stuck at a shutter speed 250 . I naively concluded that my kit was just too cheap to do such thing. But I was wrong. And by the way, post-production of your videos are amazing! Tons of time invested for sure. No wonder why they are so popular.
A flash newb here, have been watching flash videos over the last month. This is absolutely the clearest of the lot on the topic. A lot of other videographers add jokey and/or illustrative cuts, but yours are absolutely the best at advancing and clarifying the points being made. Just subbed and saved so that I can share with my newbie compatriots. Bravo
I really appreciate that you do tutorials and share your experience and technique with the audience. Too many channels became so focused towards gear or selling courses, presets etc. This is why I still like UA-cam.
Thanks. I just accidentally bumped into this video and I'm glad. Learned something new about HSS. It takes multiple flashes and has less flash power so it needs to be closer to the subject.
The original video was the first of your videos I have ever seen. I wanted to reach out and ask if you would make an updated version, and here we are!!!
Great tutorial. I'd add on the issue of ND filters that a variable ND is an option to fine tune the intensity. An in order to focus and preview the current setup, modern cameras have settings to open the aperture before taking a photo to aquire focus when shooting with tiny aperture settings. Another is to display the current scene in the EVF and Display much brighter than the current settings, expecially useful when using flash.
I am primarily a videographer so use ND filters and generally leave them on for photos, with fixed value I don't see any degradation in quality. I use ND 32 and never had trouble with focusing as the mirrorless cameras are so good. They even brighten the screen for you on flash mode. Which is actually a problem to see your exposure. So i toggle this on and off. Great video by the way.
@@glyndewis Hi Glyn I have the Sony A7R5 and Godox XPROS Trigger paired with the Godox V1. Could you recommend a Godox flash that has enough power to work outside that works with the trigger I have because the V1 doesn’t seem to have any effect outside? Thanks Jeanette
I am not in the photography hobby but I like all things tech and I found this very interesting and the explanations very clear. I will definitely tell my friend who is into photography about this.
Try a good ND filter with a good camera and it will focus Beauty is that the lower the shutter the less the power loss from HSS so your smaller flash has a better chance to do this
@@glyndewis but how many stops do you lose going from 1/250 (regular flash) to 1/8000 HSS ? Generally 7.5 to 8 stops but ambient is still ambient Use a 5 stop ND and ambient decreases with flash giving you 3 stops more flash - effectively a massive jump in flash power And if it is so bright that you need 5 stops of ND then your camera will still focus OK I concur that HSS is the quickest and simplest route but sometimes it totally lacks in power because of the half shutter duration is a halving of HSS power (1/1000 to 1/2000 is an example of halving duration)
Even a 3 stop ND will save a lot of flash power. Also, those little flashes tend to overheat quickly with HSS. A little shade goes a long way in the outdoor portrait arena. I like the challenge of producing a dark background outdoors, interesting idea.
Great video! I subscribed. For some reason, my preview is all black but the next show isn't. I followed the steps but something is not right. I have a sony a7111 paired with a flashpoint adr400.
Congrats you made getting unflattering light as difficult as possible. But it is a good one time experiment to help folks understand the relationship between ambient light, added light, shutter and aperture.
@@glyndewis As you soften the light with modifiers the power demands of most peoples speedlites wont be able to provide the proper output so it becomes a very difficult challenge. It would be less of a challenge to just bring foldable black background.
Excellent as usual Glyn thank you. One area I am confused about, is this feature controlled by the camera,the flashlight or the remote? I use Nikon D750 and Nikon SB-700 so maybe my stuff too old 😢😢
Hey Glyn, as you increased the shutter speed, you can see on the screen that your screen goes black. This is the benefit of mirrorless cameras is that we can see the actual exposure. Obviously, we want to see the subject, not a black screen. You didn't show it, but did you then turn that option off so you could then do the photo shoot? I have an R5 and I need to turn that setting off - it doesnt seem happen automatically when the flash is enabled.
There's no settings that I changed. The screen reveals the subject once I turned the triggeer on. Not sure if this is a default for Sony but I've never had to change any setting to get this.
Hi Glyn! This is super interesting and cool, but as a non photographer or photography enthusiast I have some questions: Why? Why would you do those complex setup and effort just to get that look? What's the common use case for it? What problem that it tries to solve? Is it just for that aesthetic or is it actually beneficial for some case? When or what situation would this technique be necessary or required? Other than to get that exact aesthetic, some other use case that I can think of for it is probably to use that result some black and white mask for composite, building a digital normal and bump map through image processing and blend them in or capturing multiple shots with different focus to then stack them and create some depth map to use for again (composite). But even then, there are some other method to achieve that rather than using this technique, which might be more preferable and practical.
It’s not effort to do this; more effort would be to make a selection then add a black background in post. This takes just one click of a shutter. It’s also not just about the background … it’s the light pattern on the subject. I used this when taking portraits of an actor on location who then said he needed shots on a black background. We were outside. I didn’t have a studio. This worked a treat and looked like we were in a studio with a black background. It also gives you creative choices. I used it once to create a low key portrait of a bride. Using one light to create this look when you have no black background available / are outdoors etc is preferable and practical. Doing it in post , taking multiple shots (when the subject would move) blending etc … why do that when 1 shot can capture it all? It’s that simple.
Hi Glyn, nice update to the HSS technique. I suppose there is no reason, if you need more flash brightness, that you couldn't use multiple flash guns on the same channel? I have also just realised that I was standing in front of those very same beach huts just yesterday, taking pictures of the waves crashing over the Cobb! (tricky conditions with lots of spray and little contrast).
Hi David. Yeah you definitely could use more speed lights; only thing is having to double the amount each time to increase the brightness meaning £££ Re The Cobb … I was there yesterday photographing the waves too. What time were you there?
@@glyndewis I already have 2 Godox TT350s (which I think you originally recommended) and I have just been out testing them on Exmouth seafront on a few flowers. Nice with 2 lights as you can provide different strengths from 2 different directions. I am going to highlight this technique at our Image Makers Group tonight (subgroup of Exmouth Photo Group), so I thought I had better brush up on the method! How funny you were at Lyme too, I was there between 11 and 13:30. First attempt at that sort of thing, I found it hard to find a good composition, but the waves were impressive. The light was tough as well. There was a some brightness later, but the wind had dropped too. I need to trawl through my images to see if there is anything useful, but it was a good learning experience and dramatic to witness.
Thanks Chris. Not sure about other brands as I’ve nor really used them , but the Westcott Trigger you see me using here can be used with Sony, Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Fuji …
Glyn, I am trying to understand HSS , I have seen some hss of bird photography... How do you make this kind of photos, if the birds are always moving ....is it enough with the black scene? Hard to understand for me indeed....
That's ok. I said 'in theory' you could. I was out on a VERY bright day but if you did this outside / or indoors when it is isn't such extreme light you could use a wider aperture. Make sense?
New to photography, so please excuse my naivety. Could you use a hand held portable LED close to the subject instead of a flash? Not sure I understand why the subject needs to be lit only in the time that the picture is taken. Thanks!
Because in some environments the ambient / natural light is so bright that you would need to use a very fast shutter speed to darken the scene to black; the very fast shutter speed would then be too fast for led / constant light to hit the sensor … so it would not show up.
Wow, who knew making a black background could be as easy as making a cup of coffee in the morning? I'm starting to think my morning coffee might just be invisible too 😀 And again, thanks for the content!
I'm new to flash photography and HSS. I've been trying to get this to work and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a Canon R8 with a Godox Xpro trigger and a TT685ii flash. After I black out the ambient light by raising the shutter speed I can only ever take a picture with it being all black. The trigger and everything are still connected and in HSS. What am I missing?
Glyn, Do you think you could achieve the same results in Lightroom by creating a mask and reducing the exposure on the background to zero? You can also reduce the black slider to create a completely black background. I tried it and it it seems to produce the same results. I think you have a bit more control over the lighting and feather at the edges. I could not achieve a black background with my camera even with a maximum shutter speed, smallest aperture and minimum ISO. Some background light still came through. I then used LR to create a completely black background.
You could certainly do somerhing in Lr or Ps but you definiotely wouldn't get the lighting pattern on the face to be the same or realistic. Doing it in camera takes just one click so I'd always go that route. If when you tried it you still had a littlebackground light, then using Lightroom to reduce that would be the better option rather than taking a dalight photo, masking and using sliders though for sure.
One more option to reduce amount of light in a bright day is using an ND filter and it'll give you one small advantage - you can open you aperture if you want to make a shallow dof (i don't know why and who need it but at least it's possible anyway).
Excellent video Glyn. Is there a general way to guesstimate the drop in power output of a flash set to HSS, or does it vary so much from make to make as to render this useless?
Generally if X sync is 1/250 you lose about 3 stops of power going to 1/500 and every stop faster loses a stop of HSS power (you need to think HSS is a constant light and a flash to understand how it is working)
@@MikeWeeks Thanks again, Mike. You have saved me some time and experimentation. I’ll need to use 2 Godox AD200Pro, bare bulbed and ganged together with that weirdass contraption I bought but thought I would never use to get the look and coverage I want!
HSS has given me poor image quality in the past as there’s been horizontal banding artifacts from light reflections and stuff-each pulse gets its own reflections, which of the subject is moving will happen in different places with each pulse. Note that this was on cheaper Godox equipment, an older A7 when the technology was younger. But it also eats batteries, and most folks I photograph aren’t very familiar with flash photos and a lot of dis hairs wasted just warming them up to the camera and helping them feel safe around the (powerful strobe light). The ND method is much easier on battery, the flash is more powerful, and honestly the depth of field from stopping down is useful too. I’m no fan of ND filters as far as how they degrade image quality even on a good day, it seems like even good tiffen NDs aren’t up to apsc pixel density. But it’s still better to be able to take that kind of light-isolated photo and offer it as a possible product to clients than not.
HSS cuts your light power so if you don't have a huge powerful light you need to get really close to your subject. With ND you get the full power of your lights
nope... when you shoot with ND you don't use HSS. When you use the HSS option like he is doing here your Flash loses power which is why you need the light super close and if you have a low-powered cheaper light then it cuts the power so much that you need to force the light as close as possible. With ND filters you get the full power of your flash on your subject and the ND cuts the Ambient.
@@legenderry25 "With ND filters you get the full power of your flash on your subject and the ND cuts the Ambient." LOL! Explain to me how an ND filter would darken only the ambient, without darkening the flash. I'll wait.
@@seikibrian8641 dude... nowhere did I say ND filters didn't cut the light. that's literally what it's made for, Reducing overall ambient light hitting your camera sensor. You on the other hand, what you said, and ill quote you now. "The biggest problem with an ND filter is that it would also darken the flash, which is already dimmed by the HSS function." that makes no sense because you don't use ND filters when you are shooting HSS. You either shoot with ND to lower the overall ambient light then Light your subject with flash or you use HSS to accomplish the same thing, they don't go together.
@@legenderry25 You suggested that NDs don't affect flash when you wrote, "With ND filters you get the full power of your flash on your subject and the ND cuts the Ambient." The ND cuts the ambient AND the flash.
I discovered this channel about 4 days ago and watch nearly 50 % of content. You’re the best.
Yes 👍
VERY kind ... thank you
😉
Agree just found this video. Best photographie video I've seen. I'll learn from your editing for my entertainement youtube channel.
What are the down side to portrait like that? There is any?
Even though i have used HSS a few times, learning more never hurts. The way you teach and explain why things work, it makes so much sense!!! Love the b-roll and your comedy that you add to your videos!!! Awesome work!!!! And thank you!!
Dear Glyn, big thanks for the update. I remember when I first tried your technique, I made the beginner's mistake, exactly as you describe @3:37, the moment I turned on the remote, stuck at a shutter speed 250 . I naively concluded that my kit was just too cheap to do such thing. But I was wrong. And by the way, post-production of your videos are amazing! Tons of time invested for sure. No wonder why they are so popular.
Jean-François … thank you so much for the kind words
A flash newb here, have been watching flash videos over the last month. This is absolutely the clearest of the lot on the topic. A lot of other videographers add jokey and/or illustrative cuts, but yours are absolutely the best at advancing and clarifying the points being made. Just subbed and saved so that I can share with my newbie compatriots. Bravo
The original invisible-black-background video was the reason to subscribe to this channel. One of my main sources of consultation since then.
Wonderful to hear that … thank you and thank you for sticking around
Excellent job explaining every aspect of this technique. Thanks Glyn.
Cheers Joe
I liked your updated version of the invisible black background a ton. Your explanation of HSS was the best I’ve ever seen.
Thanks so much Tom
I’m gearing up for sports media day photography and watching this video compared to the others has been EXTREMELY effective! Thank you so much!
What a lovely way to make black invisible :) I love the way you made accessible. Thank you for sharing your knowledge .
You’re welcome … glad you like it
👍🏼 ..
+ Technical Explanations 🤓
+ Cool Factor (of the Resultant Image) 😎
+ Humorous Style 😄
I really appreciate that you do tutorials and share your experience and technique with the audience. Too many channels became so focused towards gear or selling courses, presets etc. This is why I still like UA-cam.
I discovered this channel today. The quality of the content you deliver is incredible.
Thank you very much, from the bottom of my heart.
I can’t describe how this technique you have shared, has opened me to many new creative ideas Thank you so much!
That’s so good to hear Garret … thank you
Thanks. I just accidentally bumped into this video and I'm glad. Learned something new about HSS. It takes multiple flashes and has less flash power so it needs to be closer to the subject.
THis has been one of my favorites for ages. Great video explaining it Glyn.
Thanks a lot ... glad you like it
This is absolutely gold. So lucidly explained. Thank you so much.
AWESOME VIDEO! I had to put that all in caps! This was exactly what I needed. Thank you!
No...Thank you 😃
I loved 1.0. This video was much clearer and direct. Thank you
Cheers Mike
The original video was the first of your videos I have ever seen. I wanted to reach out and ask if you would make an updated version, and here we are!!!
That's so good to know Amahri ... thank you
Top notch professional tutorial. Many thanks.
Thanks so much David
You never disappoint, Glyn!! Awesome teaching- its a gift! 😊
That is so kind of you to say that … thank you
Great tutorial. I'd add on the issue of ND filters that a variable ND is an option to fine tune the intensity. An in order to focus and preview the current setup, modern cameras have settings to open the aperture before taking a photo to aquire focus when shooting with tiny aperture settings. Another is to display the current scene in the EVF and Display much brighter than the current settings, expecially useful when using flash.
Great video, thanks for version 2.0!
You’re welcome Pim … thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Another winner mate, great update to a great technique! Thanks for sharing 😎😎😎
Thank you mate
You’re awesome Glyn thanks!
Thank you 😃
Very helpfull and much clearer to me than any other video about this subject than I have seen! Thanks! 👌
So good to hear that Mario … thank you
You are simply my hero...
Made my day 😃
I am primarily a videographer so use ND filters and generally leave them on for photos, with fixed value I don't see any degradation in quality. I use ND 32 and never had trouble with focusing as the mirrorless cameras are so good. They even brighten the screen for you on flash mode. Which is actually a problem to see your exposure. So i toggle this on and off. Great video by the way.
Fantastic. Very direct and to the point. Easy to understand. Thank you!
Thank you Tim and thanks for watching
Super useful video, thank you Glyn!
Cheers 👍🏻
It’s also a fun and easy way to make scarier looking closer landscapes
🙂
We really loved the way you explained the technique!
Thanks so much ... I REALLY loved the music and stock footage I was able to add in 😉
Thank you for making this brilliant video! You have explained this so clearly and I now feel confident to give it a try.
That's wonderful to hear Jeanette. If you have any questions / issues, please don't hesitate to give me a shout
@@glyndewis Hi Glyn
I have the Sony A7R5 and Godox XPROS Trigger paired with the Godox V1. Could you recommend a Godox flash that has enough power to work outside that works with the trigger I have because the V1 doesn’t seem to have any effect outside?
Thanks
Jeanette
Hi Glyn
Would the Godox Witstro AD300PRO Portable Flash be powerful enough?
As every and each video the best teacher ever ❤️
That means A LOT Mohammed ... thank you
Thanks so much! Great video
Thank you for watching Angelo
simply perfect!
Thank you Ezio
Cannot wait to try this!!
Great to hear that Frank
Great video! I knew this already but i have never seen somebody explaining better than you
Brilliantly explained, Glyn. Thank you!
Amazing, I can't wait to try this for myself!
Thanks Glyn. I don't think I've ever watched one of your videos where I didn't learn something new
That's so good to hear ... thank you
Great explanation, Glyn; thank you for sharing these great ideas.
You’re welcome Siraj … thanks for watching
Hello Glyn Dewis,
I would like to thank you for your videos. They have been very helpful. Best regards from Austria - Tyrol - Innsbruck.
That's so good to hear ... thank you
I am not in the photography hobby but I like all things tech and I found this very interesting and the explanations very clear. I will definitely tell my friend who is into photography about this.
Brilliant, just brilliant!
Thank you mate
Hi that was the best explanation.Thank you very much 😊
Very useful GD, thanks a ton!
Cheers 👍
very nice! I never thought this was even possible!
Glad you like it Alex
Great video Glyn, the HSS setting is often forgotten but works really well in this instance.
Sure does Steve 👍🏻
Dear Glyn Davies
Thanks for the tutorial, it was very interesting.
I'm already making an attempt to get a background result like this.
Nice one … enjoy
Magnificent information!
Thanks so much Clark
Great thinking to go to the beach and make black background and use only flaslights light, gj!
This is amazing and admittedly, I never even thought of trying this. Thanks & new sub here!
Thanks a lot Craig
Man I'm just starting photography but you Glyn blow my mind little every time 😄 I got to subscribe now 👍and turn notifications up 😄
So good to hear that ... thank you 😃
Great explanation of a much misunderstood subject… 👍
Thanks so much
Helpful as always! Thanks dear sir.
You’re very welcome
Try a good ND filter with a good camera and it will focus
Beauty is that the lower the shutter the less the power loss from HSS so your smaller flash has a better chance to do this
A speedlite potentially pushing thorugh a Lee Big Stopper ... my money is on the Big Stopper 😃
@@glyndewis but how many stops do you lose going from 1/250 (regular flash) to 1/8000 HSS ? Generally 7.5 to 8 stops but ambient is still ambient
Use a 5 stop ND and ambient decreases with flash giving you 3 stops more flash - effectively a massive jump in flash power
And if it is so bright that you need 5 stops of ND then your camera will still focus OK
I concur that HSS is the quickest and simplest route but sometimes it totally lacks in power because of the half shutter duration is a halving of HSS power (1/1000 to 1/2000 is an example of halving duration)
Even a 3 stop ND will save a lot of flash power. Also, those little flashes tend to overheat quickly with HSS. A little shade goes a long way in the outdoor portrait arena. I like the challenge of producing a dark background outdoors, interesting idea.
@@steveshriver2390 absolutely agree
Love from India ❤, thank you boss 😊
👍🏻
Great video! I subscribed. For some reason, my preview is all black but the next show isn't. I followed the steps but something is not right. I have a sony a7111 paired with a flashpoint adr400.
exactly what i was looking for thanks u!!
Gracias Glyn.
Thank you for watching
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I LOVE THIS VIDEO!!!
Thank you
Could you use another concentrated constant light light source or does it only work with a flash?
Congrats you made getting unflattering light as difficult as possible. But it is a good one time experiment to help folks understand the relationship between ambient light, added light, shutter and aperture.
You do know that is purely showing how to get a black background and you can have the light as hard / soft as you like ... right? right?
@@glyndewis As you soften the light with modifiers the power demands of most peoples speedlites wont be able to provide the proper output so it becomes a very difficult challenge. It would be less of a challenge to just bring foldable black background.
Thanks that help a lot
You're welcome
Excellent as usual Glyn thank you. One area I am confused about, is this feature controlled by the camera,the flashlight or the remote? I use Nikon D750 and Nikon SB-700 so maybe my stuff too old 😢😢
Hi Warren. HSS is a feature you turn on, on the flash / trigger and the camera recognises it. Hope that helps.
Hey Glyn, as you increased the shutter speed, you can see on the screen that your screen goes black. This is the benefit of mirrorless cameras is that we can see the actual exposure. Obviously, we want to see the subject, not a black screen. You didn't show it, but did you then turn that option off so you could then do the photo shoot? I have an R5 and I need to turn that setting off - it doesnt seem happen automatically when the flash is enabled.
There's no settings that I changed. The screen reveals the subject once I turned the triggeer on. Not sure if this is a default for Sony but I've never had to change any setting to get this.
Hi Glyn! This is super interesting and cool, but as a non photographer or photography enthusiast I have some questions:
Why? Why would you do those complex setup and effort just to get that look?
What's the common use case for it?
What problem that it tries to solve?
Is it just for that aesthetic or is it actually beneficial for some case?
When or what situation would this technique be necessary or required?
Other than to get that exact aesthetic, some other use case that I can think of for it is probably to use that result some black and white mask for composite, building a digital normal and bump map through image processing and blend them in or capturing multiple shots with different focus to then stack them and create some depth map to use for again (composite). But even then, there are some other method to achieve that rather than using this technique, which might be more preferable and practical.
It’s not effort to do this; more effort would be to make a selection then add a black background in post. This takes just one click of a shutter. It’s also not just about the background … it’s the light pattern on the subject. I used this when taking portraits of an actor on location who then said he needed shots on a black background. We were outside. I didn’t have a studio. This worked a treat and looked like we were in a studio with a black background. It also gives you creative choices. I used it once to create a low key portrait of a bride.
Using one light to create this look when you have no black background available / are outdoors etc is preferable and practical. Doing it in post , taking multiple shots (when the subject would move) blending etc … why do that when 1 shot can capture it all? It’s that simple.
Hi Glyn, nice update to the HSS technique. I suppose there is no reason, if you need more flash brightness, that you couldn't use multiple flash guns on the same channel? I have also just realised that I was standing in front of those very same beach huts just yesterday, taking pictures of the waves crashing over the Cobb! (tricky conditions with lots of spray and little contrast).
Hi David. Yeah you definitely could use more speed lights; only thing is having to double the amount each time to increase the brightness meaning £££
Re The Cobb … I was there yesterday photographing the waves too. What time were you there?
@@glyndewis I already have 2 Godox TT350s (which I think you originally recommended) and I have just been out testing them on Exmouth seafront on a few flowers. Nice with 2 lights as you can provide different strengths from 2 different directions. I am going to highlight this technique at our Image Makers Group tonight (subgroup of Exmouth Photo Group), so I thought I had better brush up on the method!
How funny you were at Lyme too, I was there between 11 and 13:30. First attempt at that sort of thing, I found it hard to find a good composition, but the waves were impressive. The light was tough as well. There was a some brightness later, but the wind had dropped too. I need to trawl through my images to see if there is anything useful, but it was a good learning experience and dramatic to witness.
Well done Glyn another video with a great explanation 👏.
Does anyone know if flash triggers cross compatible?
Thanks 👍
Thanks Chris. Not sure about other brands as I’ve nor really used them , but the Westcott Trigger you see me using here can be used with Sony, Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Fuji …
@@glyndewis Thanks Glyn 👍
Bravo...thank you!
Glyn, I am trying to understand HSS , I have seen some hss of bird photography... How do you make this kind of photos, if the birds are always moving ....is it enough with the black scene? Hard to understand for me indeed....
Gotta love a high end compact camera with a leaf shutter, that saves you big ass flash ;-)
I love my Ricoh GRIIIx for that very reason.
I love it
Thank you
Thanks!
Excellent, great teaching, great explanations. No wonder you have so many subs. Oh, and one more to that! ;-)
Thanks so much
Can you do this with 2 lights the main light and one with a gel?
Glyn. Great content, but can I check. You spoke about a wide aperture but showed F11 on the screen. I'm confused!
That's ok. I said 'in theory' you could. I was out on a VERY bright day but if you did this outside / or indoors when it is isn't such extreme light you could use a wider aperture. Make sense?
@@glyndewis Absolutely. Thanks!
Brilliant!
Thank you Glen
@@glyndewis You're welcome. You are an excellent presenter. Articulate, witty, and with high standards. I, of course, subscribed.
Thanks so much
A cheaper alternative to a higher powered flash would be a ND filter to bring exposure down, right? 🙃
You didn't watch the video did you? 🤷♂️
Thanks
Thank you so much
New to photography, so please excuse my naivety. Could you use a hand held portable LED close to the subject instead of a flash? Not sure I understand why the subject needs to be lit only in the time that the picture is taken. Thanks!
Because in some environments the ambient / natural light is so bright that you would need to use a very fast shutter speed to darken the scene to black; the very fast shutter speed would then be too fast for led / constant light to hit the sensor … so it would not show up.
Wow, who knew making a black background could be as easy as making a cup of coffee in the morning? I'm starting to think my morning coffee might just be invisible too 😀
And again, thanks for the content!
I don't think i have a fancy external flash like that, so do i need continues shooting mode or is single shooting ok?
I'm new to flash photography and HSS. I've been trying to get this to work and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a Canon R8 with a Godox Xpro trigger and a TT685ii flash. After I black out the ambient light by raising the shutter speed I can only ever take a picture with it being all black. The trigger and everything are still connected and in HSS. What am I missing?
i just bought a new friend... a foam head friend so i can pratice this technique!
Nice one ... you've got a VERY willing model there now 😃
@@glyndewis lets just hope the model won’t make funny faces all the time when shooting!
LEGEND CHEERS
👍🏻
F....G great video
Glyn, Do you think you could achieve the same results in Lightroom by creating a mask and reducing the exposure on the background to zero? You can also reduce the black slider to create a completely black background. I tried it and it it seems to produce the same results. I think you have a bit more control over the lighting and feather at the edges. I could not achieve a black background with my camera even with a maximum shutter speed, smallest aperture and minimum ISO. Some background light still came through. I then used LR to create a completely black background.
You could certainly do somerhing in Lr or Ps but you definiotely wouldn't get the lighting pattern on the face to be the same or realistic. Doing it in camera takes just one click so I'd always go that route. If when you tried it you still had a littlebackground light, then using Lightroom to reduce that would be the better option rather than taking a dalight photo, masking and using sliders though for sure.
One more option to reduce amount of light in a bright day is using an ND filter and it'll give you one small advantage - you can open you aperture if you want to make a shallow dof (i don't know why and who need it but at least it's possible anyway).
Yeah I cover exactly that in the video 👍🏻
7:18 you can't AF with a ND8 filter in bright sunlight?
An ND8 yes … but not when the intention is to go completely underexposed … that is the point
What if you have a black background but what the light only focused on subject, like the effect from doja cats masc video
Excellent video Glyn. Is there a general way to guesstimate the drop in power output of a flash set to HSS, or does it vary so much from make to make as to render this useless?
Generally if X sync is 1/250 you lose about 3 stops of power going to 1/500 and every stop faster loses a stop of HSS power (you need to think HSS is a constant light and a flash to understand how it is working)
@@MikeWeeks Thanks Mike, that gives me a good idea of what sort of power I will need to do full length .
@@DrHWO that is based on testing most of the Godox range with a Sekonic 858
@@MikeWeeks Thanks again, Mike. You have saved me some time and experimentation. I’ll need to use 2 Godox AD200Pro, bare bulbed and ganged together with that weirdass contraption I bought but thought I would never use to get the look and coverage I want!
@@DrHWO I will try to remember to set that up and hopefully give you some more accurate figures
HSS has given me poor image quality in the past as there’s been horizontal banding artifacts from light reflections and stuff-each pulse gets its own reflections, which of the subject is moving will happen in different places with each pulse. Note that this was on cheaper Godox equipment, an older A7 when the technology was younger.
But it also eats batteries, and most folks I photograph aren’t very familiar with flash photos and a lot of dis hairs wasted just warming them up to the camera and helping them feel safe around the (powerful strobe light). The ND method is much easier on battery, the flash is more powerful, and honestly the depth of field from stopping down is useful too.
I’m no fan of ND filters as far as how they degrade image quality even on a good day, it seems like even good tiffen NDs aren’t up to apsc pixel density. But it’s still better to be able to take that kind of light-isolated photo and offer it as a possible product to clients than not.
Cant we use lens filter 1000nd.
HSS cuts your light power so if you don't have a huge powerful light you need to get really close to your subject. With ND you get the full power of your lights
You actually don’t … the ND cuts the power of the light … that’s the purpose of the ND
The biggest problem with an ND filter is that it would also darken the flash, which is already dimmed by the HSS function.
nope... when you shoot with ND you don't use HSS. When you use the HSS option like he is doing here your Flash loses power which is why you need the light super close and if you have a low-powered cheaper light then it cuts the power so much that you need to force the light as close as possible. With ND filters you get the full power of your flash on your subject and the ND cuts the Ambient.
@@legenderry25 "With ND filters you get the full power of your flash on your subject and the ND cuts the Ambient."
LOL! Explain to me how an ND filter would darken only the ambient, without darkening the flash. I'll wait.
@@seikibrian8641 dude... nowhere did I say ND filters didn't cut the light. that's literally what it's made for, Reducing overall ambient light hitting your camera sensor. You on the other hand, what you said, and ill quote you now. "The biggest problem with an ND filter is that it would also darken the flash, which is already dimmed by the HSS function." that makes no sense because you don't use ND filters when you are shooting HSS. You either shoot with ND to lower the overall ambient light then Light your subject with flash or you use HSS to accomplish the same thing, they don't go together.
@@legenderry25 You suggested that NDs don't affect flash when you wrote, "With ND filters you get the full power of your flash on your subject and the ND cuts the Ambient." The ND cuts the ambient AND the flash.
You don't need to screw the ND off. You just set up the focus before closing the aperture... Good video though ;)
...and iof the person / subject moves during the photo shoot??? ... Yerp ... you've got to unscrew it to then focus and thenv put it back on again 😉
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@@glyndewis I tried your technique and I got a superb amaryllis. Thank you!!