12K Solar Mini Split: signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-solar-mini-split-air-conditioner-heat-pump-ac-dc-12000-btu-seer2-22-plug-n-cool-do-it-yourself-installation/?ref=justinsproject 24K Solar Mini Split: signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-ac-dc-solar-air-conditioner-2-ton/?ref=justinsproject
Just put the same 12K unit in last week. Found the process just as you did. Unbelievable performance. I intend to add solar as well. Can you imagine all that cooling/heating for free when operating on solar? Appreciate your video. Not a bunch of extraneous crap, just straight forward info. However, I implore you to revisit your branch circuit ground that you left disconnected on outdoor unit. Please install a #12 AWG ring or spade lug on the grounding conductor and attach it to the screw holding the GRN/YEL wire from the included wiring harness. Not trying to be a smart@$$, but it will complete your safety grounding circuit. Yes, I am an Electrician! Thanks again.
I appreciate the constructive feedback. I agree. The ground should be connected. My concern and call out is to stress the point that there was no dedicated spot for it. As there was on the 24k unit. I did not do the best job trying to explain that. I should have done better there. I did reach out to EG4 and got confirmation from their engineering department that they will fix it and update their install guide. So, I guess it worked in a sense. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Actually "ground" and "earth" are entirely different. This being a consumer installed product that ties into the grid and has a UL listing along with a solar intertie makes the rules different. I know in 220, the ground is tied in the service panel to the neutral. I just ran a chassis ground too. I dont know the codes just general info.
I have installed several MrCools and never have had anyone to help or to install freon Easiest installs I have ever done Installed a Pioneer and had to buy equipment
Great video. I installed a Senville 18,000 btu in our home second floor a couple years ago which required a AC tech . I am investigating different options for my garage . With the Senville ,I did everything except the AC vac on the Senville. One thing I saw on various UA-cam comments is that you should coil the excess lines horizontal under instead of vertical behind the outside unit because the oil in the lines will pool at the bottom of the lines and can cause compressor failure.
Why not just place your outside unit far enough away to use the whole length of the line set,otherwise you should just cut,flare and vacuum your line set either yourself or hire an HVAC tech.The money you save buying a Senville you could do either.Senville makes an excellent product and this EG4 unit made by DEYE is excellent as well
@@Marvin-fn7ks I just looked at a delta unit and it is made by Midea the same as senville.I will admit I see the senville costs more in USA than Canada.The canadian dollar is worth about .72US.Senville has all their parts for sale on their website
Good job w 2 exceptions,you didn’t use a sleeve going thru the shop wall,and it had sharp edges from the tin. You never connected the ground from the disconnect to the outdoor unit.This is potentially dangerous as neither unit is grounded . Plz go pull that cover off strip back the green wire and wrap it around the same ground screw the indoor unit used or crimp on a solderless terminal. Great job otherwise and it’s nice to see an option to Mr cool. Clearly they are the advertising Kings all you see is their ads .
I just installed the EG4 9K unit by myself a couple weeks ago. This thing is amazing! It keeps over 1000sqft cool overnight just sipping 200W! I had another 8K AC unit that was barely getting the house down to 87F in the summer heat. The EG4 instantly changed that to 76F with power to spare. Did I mention how quiet they are too? If I can't see it I use the wireless app to see if its on. Wish these were around long ago. Can't use the heat pump feature this winter!
You need a ring terminal on that ground wire to connect it. That unit is not grounded. If you get a short to the chasis ot will be energized that is the reason for the chasis ground.
Nice video. I would have checked the line connections for leakage though. I would like to know the power consumption in the winter for heat and how many panels or the wattage needed that would be needed to run these. looking forward to a video on when you do hook them up to solar.
Yeah, I just sprayed the connections with soapy water and watch for bubbles. Yes, I will definitely provide an update on winter and even more indepth summer consumption as I have more data. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I have reached out to EG4, and I am waiting to hear back. Makes no sense why there is no ground connection in the 12k unit like there was in 24k. I typically like to confirm things like that before making a connection that wasn't added from the factory. I'll definitely follow up when I get the actual confirmation from EG4.
Where was the dedicated ground for the AC disconnect located? The other ground lugs that are "clearly" there are in use. Should I use them? Add multiple wires on a thread length designed for a small wire gauge size. On the 24k unit, there is a dedicated ground lug that is clearly marked only for the AC disconnect 12ga wire. Unlike the 12k unit.
Very impressive.... especially the PRICES. I recently this year installed 2 of the Mr Cool 12,000 BTU/ do-it-yourself units. Installation is very similar. PRICE of the 12,000 BTU units are similar also.
@1framistan Much appreciated 🙏 Good job on the installation, and congrats! It feels good to save a boat load of money doing itself 😎 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Mini-splits with precharged lines are pricey, mainly due to the special fittings. Much cheaper to buy a mini-split with open lines and a vacuum pump ($70 Amazon). The compressor is still pre-charged. You can use the pump later for car AC work. The later allows cutting and flaring the lines to size so no extra coiling. But, haven't seen any mini-splits but the EG4 and Mr Cool which can run directly off PV panels with no inverter. Best to squirt some No-Ox grease in the PV connectors, and even coat the AC wire ends with it.
Hey there...where did you get the stand for the outside unit. I like that better than the concrete pads I've seen... Thanks...and great video... you gave me some courage to DYI it...10x20 shed...its insulated by me and you're right... it's been extremely hot. And I have 2 6ft lofts in my shed. So, its part storage and part man cave. Again, Thanks for the video👍👍👍👍
@@JustinsProject I just bought 2 of the 12000. One a month ago and one more I ordered last week. I too was wondering about the stand, thank you for putting a link up! Great job on the video!
Great video.. very clear and concise. I'm going to install my 12K unit in my shed this weekend. Question.. where did you get the black stand for your outdoor unit? Thanks so much!
QUESTION? If I install this How do i know if I need a net meter with this or if I have one of the solar panels with a micro invertor. How would I know if I am getting charged for the smaller amount of power produced Vs Having like a large whole house solar system installed? To have a net meter installed my power comapny requires an application with the solar company and electrician listed and signed etc so that would element being able to have a net meter with a solar minisplit DIY or a just plug in panel with microinverter.
If you are installing a complete home solar system you need net metering. If you are installing only this mini split you would not need it, since this does not backfeed to the grid.
It was a tight fit, but it's in and working. I have 2 sunpower 305w panels in series powering it, when the 🌞 is out here in not to sunny S. Oregon. I like it, but the app and the remote needs work. To get any SERIOUS A\C or HEAT from it, it needs an ac source. It's like Trump, it's not perfect but it works great. Good value for the money.
What's the minimum amount of solar to run it, and does it switch automatically between AC and DC? How much more efficient is running it on DC? What are your thoughts on using parallel cables and splitting the solar input to the charge controller(s) and the mini split, or going directly from the battery bank to the unit through the solar inputs? Thanks for all the videos. You provide a valuable service to everyone that watches them.
Here is a spec sheet that might help: eg4electronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/EG4-AC-DC-Plug-N-Cool-Solar-AC-Manual-12K-24K.pdf - Technical Specs are on page 1 or page 4 of the PDF.
@@JustinsProject The only problem I had was scanning the bar code on the unit to download the app on my phone. One phone call, problem solved. I sank 4 6"X6" treated post 40" down and they stick up 36". I put a treated 4"X 6" on top of them and mounted the panels ground mount frame it came with to the top. Grounded my array with left over 6 gauge wire I had and couldn't be more happy with how it turned out'. $3000.00 for everything.
For 240VAC loads, always use black and red as the legs, and white as neutral. If no neutral is needed, cap off the white. Don't use black and white for hot legs and cap the red!
This is a 120v system. I had previously installed 12/3 wire. I should have installed 12/2 for this system but in the end opted for a smaller system for the room it was cooling & heating. So 12/2 was all I needed but the 12/3 wire was already installed. Since all my 120v circuits are black and white I opted not to use the red wire on either side but left it there in case I ever needed it in the future.
Awesome oil traps. Just get a vacuum pump, and a AC flaring tool and cut the line set to the correct length. That the only real difference in DIY vs normal installation. While not great, even HF sells vac pumps.
wish 9000btu ran dc direct or maybe 12000btu had dual zones......i run 6000btu on 2nd floor only......?.....how low will the 12000btu run at lowest btu? I believe the 9000 has higher seer rating??
I am working on confirming directly with EG4 engineers. The problem is that there is no dedicated grounding screw available for the wire that comes from the AC disconnect. Why? I think it is important to know why that was not added in the 12k unit and was added in the 24k unit. I will be sure to follow up and post what I find out directly from EG4.
I put all the links in the description for the actual cost. Considering all factors included with installing other units, I thought these were the best deals I could buy.
The consumption seems a little high. I have the 24k just installed yesterday and its pulling 130watts on standy turned off. I have it hooked up to a ecoflow delta 2 pro ultra. So it tells me in real time. Not sure whats up with the draw when nothing is running. Is yours drawing power when you turn its off. On the eg4 app it doesnt show a power draw but on the Ecoflow unit it does.
You can monitor in real time and control the EG4 unit using the ( Solar AirCon App ) - Here is a link to the Google play store: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.solar.airconditioner (they have a Apple version as well) My 24k unit draws around 60watts with the fan circulating the air fan on auto speed. That is with the mini split set on ECO. I have that one programmed to turn on the unit at 7am and turn off at 6:30pm. During those hours I usually have it set to 70F to keep it cool. I have consumed a total of 87kWh for July so far 16 full days. That is an average of 5.43kWh per day. Plus it has been close to 95 degrees most of those days. From my data, that is very low consumption for a 2 ton air conditioner. I will definitely test the draw through the AC500's now. I will isolate the power consumption to only the 24k unit and see if I am getting a different reading from the Bluetti than I am on the Solar AirCon app. I will get back with you on this.
The reading on my Bluetti AC500's and the Solar AirCon app are pretty much the same. When the units are off there is no power draw. When on and set to ECO mode and the fan is running but no AC engaged my draw is around 60 watts.
@JustinsProject interesting. My ecoflow app says 135 watts when the unit is off. But the eg4 app says 0. When the fan is on eg4 says 60 watts. Ecoflow says 145. Maybe ecoflow is wrong.
A bit surprised that Ecoflow is reporting apparent power - Google apparent power true power triangle - plug it into a Kill-a-watt meter. Got 0.25 power factor and 8W consumption while off :-)
I like the idea of these but I can cross the border and get 1 ton heating and cooling for 250, and 2 ton heating and cooling for 460. even if I pay someone to install it I would still save a lot. I am lucky to have friends in the industry who will install it for beer.
I LOVE the Dominican Republic, been there many times. Cheers! No need to vacuum the lines. Everything is pre-charged. That is the beauty of these true DIY systems.
Why not supply a materials list? Eg4 does not provide one. The instructions include a tools list, which states the totally obvious tools, but not the far less obvious materials.
So supposed to tighten to 20ft lbs on those line-sets according to the spec sheet, now im no expert but that flex at 8:15 lookin more like 60 ft lbs- as the germans say "gutten'tight"
I have the mr kool units and they very good. In my opinion having integrated solar inverter just adds more failure points. If you have solar panels you most likely have an inverter so why not just power from inverter? I like the EG4 products but an AC unit you cannot just send it back if it fails. There only distributor is signature solar and there support is poor at best. Mr kool has a great track record of support, reliability and distribution for replacement parts.
@@JustinsProject I need to correct myself. I was overruled by the community on the benefits of DC powered AC. Maybe I was overthinking the complexity but 90% of those I talked to say good things. You actually got me thinking I should give the EG4 AC unit a try as all there other products I used have been pretty good. I look forward to your channel.
@@codetech5598 In my case the its a small load but I understand your thinking. Im looking at the efficiency with the internal inverter and how much it would save and is it worth splitting the solar array. If AC is not running then those panels powering the AC are not making power and I will loose the power that those same panels could be used to charge my batteries. I would love to get feedback on these points.
First time I saw where, seems there's signature solar in Sydney and it costs about $2000. Free shipping, $50 welcome voucher. Thanks your signature solar comment about Canada answered my question too.
I do like EG4 by the way. But I did just design a Mr. Cool system using 36,000 BTU unit with 2-zones that can be expanded to 4. Oh, that’s right, EG4 DOESN’T have that. 😂
I feel ya, but those channel locks are pretty slick. I agree though, they are not ideal. I would prefer to use an exact sized wrench but my larger wrenches are out on loan, leaving me with channel locks.
Unfortunately EG4 and MrCool are charged w R410A refrigerant. Starting 2025, new refrigerant will be required (R32 and R454A). Wait til 2025 to purchase newly designed heat pumps with higher efficiency w new refrigerants.
What is the maximum length the line set that it can be extended to safely? I am trying to determine if having dual zones on opposite sides of a house would still be worth doing. Or if 2 units would be a simpler install.
@@JustinsProject depends on whether you're talking to zone, three zone, or warzone. For a two-zone, 18K, the max combined line set length for all rooms is 30 m or 98 and 1/2 ft. The max line set length for one indoor unit is half that 15 m. The maximum height difference between indoor and outdoor unit is 10 m or 30 ft. And the max height difference between indoor units is 10 m or 30 ft. The only difference with the three and four zone condensers are that the max combined line set for all rooms is longer by 15 m each.
@JustinsProject I seen a green screw in the unit.That's where The Wire needs to be landed.You don't have a path back to ground there.Go if the unit short that you will become the ground.If you touch the unit it needs to be grounded
Everything, including the lines, are pre charged. There is no need to pull vacuum on anything with these systems. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject Pretty good gig having that out. They advertise diy, plug and play all over the place so when people diy the company has an out when something goes wrong with the units.
@Justin Mr. Cool did not lie they released their products years before anyone else, since then they have not change their data, still not a lie just old outdated information, anyways you are also wrong the ground is in the outdoor unit, in my EG4 solar installed i put a terminal on the ground and screw it down on the indicated ground screw, this is critical because it provides ground to the indoor unit.
Also i vacuum out my lines before opening the coolant. I’m surprised you didn’t check for leaks and do the same, but happy it worked out for you without doing that critical steps as well.
I appreciate your point of view and agree that Mr. Cool may be the first branded DIY solution. However, it does not give them a claim to infinitely state "They are the only" DIY solution. It's false to continue that claim when there are other companies offering the same solution. If they would state "The First" then they would be correct. Regardless, they are NOT the only company to offer a DIY solution and that is why I will stand behind my statement. They continue to put out new content claiming they are the only ones. It's false. I am working on getting an official answer from the manufacturer on the ground concern. This is only a concern with the 12k unit. The 24k unit has a dedicated slot to put it and is clearly marked on that unit. I will follow up when I get an answer from EG4.
@@JustinsProject the pre-charged is within the external unit the lines you connect to the external unit the and head unit has air in it .. thats why its best to vacuum out the lines before opening the precharge valve, was that not a step in your manual?
When I reached out to the company they advised those lines are precharged and not to pull vacuum on them. I did review the manual and on these units it does not mention anywhere to do that.
What manufacturer is makes them? I would like to dive a little deeper into finding out what brands are the same in terms of manufacturing. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
How can anybody trust you if you cannot see the ground screw right in front of your eyes, I wont watch the rest, you have know idea what you are doing!
Very inefficient to run with a DC to AC inverter. If there’s a DC to DC (12, 24, 48 v) system it’s the most efficient. Efficiency matters because Air Conditioning is a large consumer of stored battery energy.
Sorry.. had to give this a thumbs down. MOST peeps are wanting to see it installed WITH SOLAR, as the title says. I have a 9k Pioneer but as easy as it was to install. I had to get a friend with a AC pump. I will be switching it for the EG4 12k and using it only on solar and DC. I'm going offgrid. I can and do run mine off my solar system and is very efficient and super quiet.
That is unfortunate. Sorry to disappoint. Thanks for the feedback though. They both are solar mini splits. You would just need to connect the MC4 positive and negatives to an array. Which I plan on doing in the future just as a backup source. Technically they are running from solar through the AC500's. But I understand what you are saying.
@@JustinsProject No worries.. Just hoping to see what the title said. I have 2 ecoflow Deltas (1300 and the D2 with 2 extra batteries)I can run mine on too..
I would not buy any AC that uses R410. It is an obsolete refrigerant that will soon be as hard to get as R22. There will eventually be leaks and service will be expensive or not obtainable. It is being phased out in 2024. I suspect there will be many "bargain" AC systems dumped on the market because of this. Not to say they are not good units, just that manufacturers must switch to the newer, approved refrigerants and selling off inventory is a must. If you can buy a good, sealed refrigerant system that you want to last and are willing to chance no or very expensive service, then go for it. Mini splits are very prone to leaking because there are joints that are not braised and are therefore going to loosen and leak over time. Good luck.
12K Solar Mini Split: signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-solar-mini-split-air-conditioner-heat-pump-ac-dc-12000-btu-seer2-22-plug-n-cool-do-it-yourself-installation/?ref=justinsproject
24K Solar Mini Split: signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-ac-dc-solar-air-conditioner-2-ton/?ref=justinsproject
Just put the same 12K unit in last week. Found the process just as you did. Unbelievable performance. I intend to add solar as well. Can you imagine all that cooling/heating for free when operating on solar? Appreciate your video. Not a bunch of extraneous crap, just straight forward info. However, I implore you to revisit your branch circuit ground that you left disconnected on outdoor unit. Please install a #12 AWG ring or spade lug on the grounding conductor and attach it to the screw holding the GRN/YEL wire from the included wiring harness. Not trying to be a smart@$$, but it will complete your safety grounding circuit. Yes, I am an Electrician! Thanks again.
I appreciate the constructive feedback. I agree. The ground should be connected. My concern and call out is to stress the point that there was no dedicated spot for it. As there was on the 24k unit. I did not do the best job trying to explain that. I should have done better there. I did reach out to EG4 and got confirmation from their engineering department that they will fix it and update their install guide. So, I guess it worked in a sense. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I did the same years ago, definitely add the panels. Mine almost ran gridless during the day on 6 dedicated 300 watt panels in Texas.
The green ground connects to the green ground screw it's right there! SHOCK HAZARD>>>>>>
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Actually "ground" and "earth" are entirely different. This being a consumer installed product that ties into the grid and has a UL listing along with a solar intertie makes the rules different.
I know in 220, the ground is tied in the service panel to the neutral. I just ran a chassis ground too. I dont know the codes just general info.
I have installed several MrCools and never have had anyone to help or to install freon
Easiest installs I have ever done
Installed a Pioneer and had to buy equipment
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. I installed a Senville 18,000 btu in our home second floor a couple years ago which required a AC tech . I am investigating different options for my garage . With the Senville ,I did everything except the AC vac on the Senville. One thing I saw on various UA-cam comments is that you should coil the excess lines horizontal under instead of vertical behind the outside unit because the oil in the lines will pool at the bottom of the lines and can cause compressor failure.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Why not just place your outside unit far enough away to use the whole length of the line set,otherwise you should just cut,flare and vacuum your line set either yourself or hire an HVAC tech.The money you save buying a Senville you could do either.Senville makes an excellent product and this EG4 unit made by DEYE is excellent as well
@ Thanks , that’s my plan for my Florida garage as i think i can move the outside unit . I am considering a Delta as well .
@@Marvin-fn7ks I just looked at a delta unit and it is made by Midea the same as senville.I will admit I see the senville costs more in USA than Canada.The canadian dollar is worth about .72US.Senville has all their parts for sale on their website
I've looked at these before. Your video was very clear and to the point.😊
Awesome! Thank you! Appreciate you watching and commenting. 👍
Good job w 2 exceptions,you didn’t use a sleeve going thru the shop wall,and it had sharp edges from the tin. You never connected the ground from the disconnect to the outdoor unit.This is potentially dangerous as neither unit is grounded . Plz go pull that cover off strip back the green wire and wrap it around the same ground screw the indoor unit used or crimp on a solderless terminal. Great job otherwise and it’s nice to see an option to Mr cool. Clearly they are the advertising Kings all you see is their ads .
Thanks for watching and the constructive feedback
I just installed the EG4 9K unit by myself a couple weeks ago. This thing is amazing! It keeps over 1000sqft cool overnight just sipping 200W! I had another 8K AC unit that was barely getting the house down to 87F in the summer heat. The EG4 instantly changed that to 76F with power to spare. Did I mention how quiet they are too? If I can't see it I use the wireless app to see if its on. Wish these were around long ago. Can't use the heat pump feature this winter!
How much did you pay for everything? Might do this with our relatives' place in a hot and humid region.
Thanks for watching and commenting
You need a ring terminal on that ground wire to connect it. That unit is not grounded. If you get a short to the chasis ot will be energized that is the reason for the chasis ground.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Nice video. I would have checked the line connections for leakage though. I would like to know the power consumption in the winter for heat and how many panels or the wattage needed that would be needed to run these. looking forward to a video on when you do hook them up to solar.
Yeah, I just sprayed the connections with soapy water and watch for bubbles. Yes, I will definitely provide an update on winter and even more indepth summer consumption as I have more data. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
This is a very nice detailed video! Easy to follow for those trying to install one, great job!
Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Ground wire should be connected to the body of the compressor. Use a ring terminal
I have reached out to EG4, and I am waiting to hear back. Makes no sense why there is no ground connection in the 12k unit like there was in 24k. I typically like to confirm things like that before making a connection that wasn't added from the factory. I'll definitely follow up when I get the actual confirmation from EG4.
@@JustinsProject Especially when the warning label says to connect the ground.
And the mount point is in plain sight @ 5:52. P.S. it hurts to see channel lock pliers used that way....IMHO.
@@JustinsProject There was clearly a ground connection on your video.
Where was the dedicated ground for the AC disconnect located? The other ground lugs that are "clearly" there are in use. Should I use them? Add multiple wires on a thread length designed for a small wire gauge size. On the 24k unit, there is a dedicated ground lug that is clearly marked only for the AC disconnect 12ga wire. Unlike the 12k unit.
Very impressive.... especially the PRICES. I recently this year installed 2 of the Mr Cool 12,000 BTU/ do-it-yourself units. Installation is very similar. PRICE of the 12,000 BTU units are similar also.
@1framistan Much appreciated 🙏 Good job on the installation, and congrats! It feels good to save a boat load of money doing itself 😎 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Mini-splits with precharged lines are pricey, mainly due to the special fittings. Much cheaper to buy a mini-split with open lines and a vacuum pump ($70 Amazon). The compressor is still pre-charged. You can use the pump later for car AC work. The later allows cutting and flaring the lines to size so no extra coiling. But, haven't seen any mini-splits but the EG4 and Mr Cool which can run directly off PV panels with no inverter. Best to squirt some No-Ox grease in the PV connectors, and even coat the AC wire ends with it.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Hey there...where did you get the stand for the outside unit. I like that better than the concrete pads I've seen... Thanks...and great video... you gave me some courage to DYI it...10x20 shed...its insulated by me and you're right... it's been extremely hot. And I have 2 6ft lofts in my shed. So, its part storage and part man cave. Again, Thanks for the video👍👍👍👍
Much appreciated! I got the stands off Amazon. Here is a link to the exact one that I purchased: amzn.to/3Wfszf6
@@JustinsProject Thank you....I will be getting my unit by Oct 15th...bills bills and more bills...lol
@@JustinsProject I just bought 2 of the 12000. One a month ago and one more I ordered last week. I too was wondering about the stand, thank you for putting a link up! Great job on the video!
the place to hook up the ground is visible at 7:10
Where? On the screw that already has a ground wire on it? Most screw terminals are designed for only a single wire. Or am I mistaken?
@@JustinsProject yes, on the same terminal it’s OK to stack them
@@JustinsProject another way to do. It is put a single pigtail on the screw and then wire nut all three wires together.
Thanks bro, our world needs this type of info. I plan on using these in the future on my 2000 ft barndomenium. God bless.
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Great video.. very clear and concise. I'm going to install my 12K unit in my shed this weekend. Question.. where did you get the black stand for your outdoor unit? Thanks so much!
Much appreciated! I got the stands off Amazon. Here is a link to the exact one that I purchased: amzn.to/3Wfszf6
Do they have multi-room configuration?
Not at this time. For me, I couldn't use a multi room if they did though. Due to lineset runs.
QUESTION? If I install this How do i know if I need a net meter with this or if I have one of the solar panels with a micro invertor. How would I know if I am getting charged for the smaller amount of power produced Vs Having like a large whole house solar system installed? To have a net meter installed my power comapny requires an application with the solar company and electrician listed and signed etc so that would element being able to have a net meter with a solar minisplit DIY or a just plug in panel with microinverter.
If you are installing a complete home solar system you need net metering. If you are installing only this mini split you would not need it, since this does not backfeed to the grid.
Do you need a vacuum as a DIY?
No. It's truly plug and play. Made the install very easy.
Ok.. I'm back. Miss me..? lol.. I now have my EG4 Hybrid 12k. Can't wait to get in installed.
Let us know how it goes. 👍
It was a tight fit, but it's in and working. I have 2 sunpower 305w panels in series powering it, when the 🌞 is out here in not to sunny S. Oregon. I like it, but the app and the remote needs work. To get any SERIOUS A\C or HEAT from it, it needs an ac source. It's like Trump, it's not perfect but it works great. Good value for the money.
What's the minimum amount of solar to run it, and does it switch automatically between AC and DC? How much more efficient is running it on DC? What are your thoughts on using parallel cables and splitting the solar input to the charge controller(s) and the mini split, or going directly from the battery bank to the unit through the solar inputs? Thanks for all the videos. You provide a valuable service to everyone that watches them.
Here is a spec sheet that might help: eg4electronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/EG4-AC-DC-Plug-N-Cool-Solar-AC-Manual-12K-24K.pdf - Technical Specs are on page 1 or page 4 of the PDF.
It seems about 1080 watts of consistent power during *active* use. I could be wrong.
Did you put in your own electral box?
@@glennsmith6380 Yes
Thanks for the video! EG4 seems to be a good option to consider!
I just installed 12,000 BTU unit myself, total cost $3000.00. It should be paid for in 5 years, cut my electric bill almost in half.
Did your installation go smooth? I assume the 3k is everything, including the solar array, right? Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject The only problem I had was scanning the bar code on the unit to download the app on my phone. One phone call, problem solved. I sank 4 6"X6" treated post 40" down and they stick up 36". I put a treated 4"X 6" on top of them and mounted the panels ground mount frame it came with to the top. Grounded my array with left over 6 gauge wire I had and couldn't be more happy with how it turned out'. $3000.00 for everything.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing! Did you connect it to AC also? Just wondering what you did for the ground wire if you did connect it to an AC disconnect.
I wish they would come out with a 36000 BTU unit
Thanks for watching and commenting
For 240VAC loads, always use black and red as the legs, and white as neutral. If no neutral is needed, cap off the white. Don't use black and white for hot legs and cap the red!
This is a 120v system. I had previously installed 12/3 wire. I should have installed 12/2 for this system but in the end opted for a smaller system for the room it was cooling & heating. So 12/2 was all I needed but the 12/3 wire was already installed. Since all my 120v circuits are black and white I opted not to use the red wire on either side but left it there in case I ever needed it in the future.
There is a green ground screw right in front of you...safety first.
I though you have to vacuum the air out of the line before opening the coolant?
No. It's ready to go. No vacuum needed.
Awesome oil traps. Just get a vacuum pump, and a AC flaring tool and cut the line set to the correct length. That the only real difference in DIY vs normal installation. While not great, even HF sells vac pumps.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Awesome, recommending to cut the line set on a threaded system. Wonder if that will void any warranty 🤔
Certainly would void the warranty. The lines are precharged and designed to be installed as I did.
@juanmarquez3067 no instead you should make an oil trap and kill the thing in 2 years. You are a winner for sure.
I am just following the instructions of the manufacturer. It has always served me right by doing that.
wish 9000btu ran dc direct or maybe 12000btu had dual zones......i run 6000btu on 2nd floor only......?.....how low will the 12000btu run at lowest btu? I believe the 9000 has higher seer rating??
Yes, the 9k units from EG4 that are not DC do have a better seer rating.
What if the unit is 50' away from outdoor. Do they have 50' lime set? Or can they connect 2 or 3 line set?
Yes they have additional line sets for extending the total length if that is needed.
Damm......best fucking review i seen on youtube !!!
Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Go back and connect the ground to the unit ground wire
Wouldn’t it be to the ground screw on the chassis? I saw it. I think you saw it too.
@@raybieze It is not grounded now could be bad if something goes wrong
my thoughts exactly
@@raybieze Yes he put the wire from the unit on the chassis ground but not from the house Always make a ground spot even if there is not one.
I am working on confirming directly with EG4 engineers. The problem is that there is no dedicated grounding screw available for the wire that comes from the AC disconnect. Why? I think it is important to know why that was not added in the 12k unit and was added in the 24k unit. I will be sure to follow up and post what I find out directly from EG4.
Would be great if someone will create a video showing installing "whole-house" solar heating/cooling; AND, the solar system to run it...........
I have videos on building a complete solar system for my home. It's an Enphase system. Soon I will be working on installing a completely new system.
How much do they cost compared to the other brand for diy
I put all the links in the description for the actual cost. Considering all factors included with installing other units, I thought these were the best deals I could buy.
Do they have an indoor unit that the line set comes out of the left side not the left rear but the left side along the wall?
Not sure about that. I would reach out to them and see if they have what you are looking for.
@@JustinsProject ok I will
Do that. Thanks for the reply
Ground goes to Ground it's same ground used for the Head Unit
My question is why they did not included a dedicated spot for it like they did in the 24k unit.
The consumption seems a little high. I have the 24k just installed yesterday and its pulling 130watts on standy turned off. I have it hooked up to a ecoflow delta 2 pro ultra. So it tells me in real time. Not sure whats up with the draw when nothing is running. Is yours drawing power when you turn its off. On the eg4 app it doesnt show a power draw but on the Ecoflow unit it does.
You can monitor in real time and control the EG4 unit using the ( Solar AirCon App ) - Here is a link to the Google play store: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.solar.airconditioner (they have a Apple version as well) My 24k unit draws around 60watts with the fan circulating the air fan on auto speed. That is with the mini split set on ECO. I have that one programmed to turn on the unit at 7am and turn off at 6:30pm. During those hours I usually have it set to 70F to keep it cool. I have consumed a total of 87kWh for July so far 16 full days. That is an average of 5.43kWh per day. Plus it has been close to 95 degrees most of those days. From my data, that is very low consumption for a 2 ton air conditioner.
I will definitely test the draw through the AC500's now. I will isolate the power consumption to only the 24k unit and see if I am getting a different reading from the Bluetti than I am on the Solar AirCon app. I will get back with you on this.
Looking forward to the follow-up.@@JustinsProject
The reading on my Bluetti AC500's and the Solar AirCon app are pretty much the same. When the units are off there is no power draw. When on and set to ECO mode and the fan is running but no AC engaged my draw is around 60 watts.
@JustinsProject interesting. My ecoflow app says 135 watts when the unit is off. But the eg4 app says 0. When the fan is on eg4 says 60 watts. Ecoflow says 145. Maybe ecoflow is wrong.
A bit surprised that Ecoflow is reporting apparent power - Google apparent power true power triangle - plug it into a Kill-a-watt meter. Got 0.25 power factor and 8W consumption while off :-)
I like the idea of these but I can cross the border and get 1 ton heating and cooling for 250, and 2 ton heating and cooling for 460. even if I pay someone to install it I would still save a lot. I am lucky to have friends in the industry who will install it for beer.
Can't beat those prices! It is always good to have friends with trade skills. Cheers!
Bro from Dominican Reublic I didnt see the bacum pomp preccess
I LOVE the Dominican Republic, been there many times. Cheers! No need to vacuum the lines. Everything is pre-charged. That is the beauty of these true DIY systems.
Why not supply a materials list? Eg4 does not provide one. The instructions include a tools list, which states the totally obvious tools, but not the far less obvious materials.
What materials are you looking for and I will see what I can do to help out.
So supposed to tighten to 20ft lbs on those line-sets according to the spec sheet, now im no expert but that flex at 8:15 lookin more like 60 ft lbs- as the germans say "gutten'tight"
😂
Nice content.
Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I have the mr kool units and they very good. In my opinion having integrated solar inverter just adds more failure points. If you have solar panels you most likely have an inverter so why not just power from inverter? I like the EG4 products but an AC unit you cannot just send it back if it fails. There only distributor is signature solar and there support is poor at best. Mr kool has a great track record of support, reliability and distribution for replacement parts.
All of those are valid concerns. I have had good experiences with Signature Solar. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@JustinsProject I need to correct myself. I was overruled by the community on the benefits of DC powered AC. Maybe I was overthinking the complexity but 90% of those I talked to say good things. You actually got me thinking I should give the EG4 AC unit a try as all there other products I used have been pretty good. I look forward to your channel.
Thanks for sharing
You don't want to burden you main system with something that is running all day.
@@codetech5598 In my case the its a small load but I understand your thinking. Im looking at the efficiency with the internal inverter and how much it would save and is it worth splitting the solar array. If AC is not running then those panels powering the AC are not making power and I will loose the power that those same panels could be used to charge my batteries. I would love to get feedback on these points.
Do they sell these in Canada 🇨🇦
Yes, use the links in the video description. Signature Solar is where I got them and they ship to Canada also.
What about Australia
First time I saw where, seems there's signature solar in Sydney and it costs about $2000. Free shipping, $50 welcome voucher. Thanks your signature solar comment about Canada answered my question too.
I do like EG4 by the way. But I did just design a Mr. Cool system using 36,000 BTU unit with 2-zones that can be expanded to 4. Oh, that’s right, EG4 DOESN’T have that. 😂
That's nice 😆
Thanks for posting, but I always lose trust in someone that uses adjustable “channel locks” when an adjustable “crescent wrench” is ideal
I feel ya, but those channel locks are pretty slick. I agree though, they are not ideal. I would prefer to use an exact sized wrench but my larger wrenches are out on loan, leaving me with channel locks.
Are there any companies that make "ceiling cassettes"???.......I hate the look of the wall units.....
In that case, I think Mr. Cool does make the hidden ceiling units.
Unfortunately EG4 and MrCool are charged w R410A refrigerant. Starting 2025, new refrigerant will be required (R32 and R454A). Wait til 2025 to purchase newly designed heat pumps with higher efficiency w new refrigerants.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Mr Cool has multi-zone, EG4 does not. If they did, I'd buy EG4 just for the solar capable.
What is the maximum length the line set that it can be extended to safely? I am trying to determine if having dual zones on opposite sides of a house would still be worth doing. Or if 2 units would be a simpler install.
@@JustinsProject depends on whether you're talking to zone, three zone, or warzone. For a two-zone, 18K, the max combined line set length for all rooms is 30 m or 98 and 1/2 ft. The max line set length for one indoor unit is half that 15 m. The maximum height difference between indoor and outdoor unit is 10 m or 30 ft. And the max height difference between indoor units is 10 m or 30 ft. The only difference with the three and four zone condensers are that the max combined line set for all rooms is longer by 15 m each.
All good information 👍🏻 Thanks for that.
green wire to green screw it needs to be grounded !!!!
Are you referring to the one that already has a wire connected on it?
@JustinsProject I seen a green screw in the unit.That's where The Wire needs to be landed.You don't have a path back to ground there.Go if the unit short that you will become the ground.If you touch the unit it needs to be grounded
Yeah give me results in a year. Because the Mr Cool. Lasted about a yeah. Before ended up costing arm and leg to repair it.
Yeah, I will definitely be giving updates as time passes. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Why did you not evacuate the unit the line set and the unit inside the valve is right there.
Everything, including the lines, are pre charged. There is no need to pull vacuum on anything with these systems. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Eg4 is only warrantied if a licensed installer does the install.
Technically, I think all of them have that stipulation.
@@JustinsProject Pretty good gig having that out. They advertise diy, plug and play all over the place so when people diy the company has an out when something goes wrong with the units.
@Justin Mr. Cool did not lie they released their products years before anyone else, since then they have not change their data, still not a lie just old outdated information, anyways you are also wrong the ground is in the outdoor unit, in my EG4 solar installed i put a terminal on the ground and screw it down on the indicated ground screw, this is critical because it provides ground to the indoor unit.
Also i vacuum out my lines before opening the coolant. I’m surprised you didn’t check for leaks and do the same, but happy it worked out for you without doing that critical steps as well.
I appreciate your point of view and agree that Mr. Cool may be the first branded DIY solution. However, it does not give them a claim to infinitely state "They are the only" DIY solution. It's false to continue that claim when there are other companies offering the same solution. If they would state "The First" then they would be correct. Regardless, they are NOT the only company to offer a DIY solution and that is why I will stand behind my statement. They continue to put out new content claiming they are the only ones. It's false. I am working on getting an official answer from the manufacturer on the ground concern. This is only a concern with the 12k unit. The 24k unit has a dedicated slot to put it and is clearly marked on that unit. I will follow up when I get an answer from EG4.
Just an FYI, those lines are pre charged so you might have done more harm than good.
@@JustinsProject the pre-charged is within the external unit the lines you connect to the external unit the and head unit has air in it .. thats why its best to vacuum out the lines before opening the precharge valve, was that not a step in your manual?
When I reached out to the company they advised those lines are precharged and not to pull vacuum on them. I did review the manual and on these units it does not mention anywhere to do that.
same system just rebranded,,, do some research
What manufacturer is makes them? I would like to dive a little deeper into finding out what brands are the same in terms of manufacturing. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
How can anybody trust you if you cannot see the ground screw right in front of your eyes, I wont watch the rest, you have know idea what you are doing!
Which ground screw are you referring too? You mean the one with a ground already on it? Or the one designed for the indoor 22ga wire?
Very inefficient to run with a DC to AC inverter. If there’s a DC to DC (12, 24, 48 v) system it’s the most efficient. Efficiency matters because Air Conditioning is a large consumer of stored battery energy.
Certainly, but in my situation it is the best that I can do right now.
The units themselves have DC motors.
🇺🇸🦈🇵🇷
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Sorry.. had to give this a thumbs down. MOST peeps are wanting to see it installed WITH SOLAR, as the title says. I have a 9k Pioneer but as easy as it was to install. I had to get a friend with a AC pump. I will be switching it for the EG4 12k and using it only on solar and DC. I'm going offgrid. I can and do run mine off my solar system and is very efficient and super quiet.
That is unfortunate. Sorry to disappoint. Thanks for the feedback though. They both are solar mini splits. You would just need to connect the MC4 positive and negatives to an array. Which I plan on doing in the future just as a backup source. Technically they are running from solar through the AC500's. But I understand what you are saying.
@@JustinsProject No worries.. Just hoping to see what the title said. I have 2 ecoflow Deltas (1300 and the D2 with 2 extra batteries)I can run mine on too..
I watched another video where it says it should be connected to a 20 amp breaker. Is that true?
Yes. On the 12k unit that is a 20a single breaker, on the 24k unit it is a 20a double breaker. Hope that helps
Its just a matter of connecting your panels in series then connecting to the unit, no need to watch that on a video
I would not buy any AC that uses R410. It is an obsolete refrigerant that will soon be as hard to get as R22. There will eventually be leaks and service will be expensive or not obtainable. It is being phased out in 2024. I suspect there will be many "bargain" AC systems dumped on the market because of this. Not to say they are not good units, just that manufacturers must switch to the newer, approved refrigerants and selling off inventory is a must. If you can buy a good, sealed refrigerant system that you want to last and are willing to chance no or very expensive service, then go for it. Mini splits are very prone to leaking because there are joints that are not braised and are therefore going to loosen and leak over time. Good luck.
Thanks for watching and commenting