Had a WC buffer come apart in my 1911 recently, and it definitely had less than a thousand rounds through it since installation. Amazingly, the pistol kept on working, but I could tell something wasn't right when hand cycling the slide. Knew immediately what the issue was, as there wasn't another explanation, and I was correct. I will likely keep running buffers, but will keep a careful eye on them before, during and after each range session.
Ya I mean they are a consumable for sure. I’m sure spring weight may have a factor but you are doing it right. Always good to check guns over regularly. I have yet to wear one out yet , but most of my 1911s only have a couple hundred rounds through them so I got probably a ways to go
Recently inherited a nice custom Les Baer from ‘90s. The shoc-buff was half gone in pieces inside the slide. I wondered why it was difficult to pull slide back while inspecting. Not being very familiar with these I did some research and yes mostly on custom types but helpful in maintaining a stellar handgun if firing a lot. Good vid… I was alittle taken Aback on his dis-assembly and re-assembly… 1-2-3… seemed abit backwards. But good vid otherwise.
Ya sometimes I disassemble this way for this particular firearm due to the full length guide rod and I have a 24 lb recoil spring set up for 45 super. It just makes it keep together
In my experience, they make last round slide lock so rare it might as qell not have a slide lock. This saddens me. I really enjoy dropping that slide into battery.
@@Conklikov I had a light spring in it (too light) with a shock buff and slide locked back no prob. Recoil impulse felt awesome But I noticed some peening where the VIS meets barrel bed so I went back to the 17lb.. no slide lock for me afterwards 🤔. If you have an idea for a fix, I'm entirely made out of ears RN👂
you are compressing the spring by 1/10". Make sure the spring isnt completely compressed because the spring will become a solid steel tube. You may have to shorten the coil. Test it by locking up the slide. Remove the magazine and then pull the slide back to release the slide release. If it wont release on its own then the spring needs to be shortened so the slide can travel back far enough for the slide release to disengage.
Great point! I have not had issues with the spring and actually I’m converting to 45 super which most sources recommend a shock buff for that application
If the spring isn't stacking solid without the buff, it won't stack solid with the buff. The buffer shortens rearward slide travel by the thickness of the buff. The spring will be slightly more compressed...coils closer together...with the slide forward, but at the rearward limit, the distance between coils will be the same as without the buff.
@@Conklikov lube with oil instead. Grease clings better yes, but lots of foreign debris can adhere to it and render it unreliable possibly. A quart of syn oil will last you a lifetime. Run that beauty wet !
Ya, every downside is typically a hypothetical and assumes you will never clean or inspect your pistol, which most people should every 500 to 1000 rds anyways to check for any issues or potential fail points
downside for me was a big drop in reliability. I removed the one I installed and tossed them in the garbage. I'll deal with the recoil and have my reliability back thanks
@@michaelsherfield3749 Do her a favor and pick up a 1911 in 9mm. It's the cats meow! All the benefits and looks with no drawbacks plus cheaper to shoot.
@@rickw5024 I'm not big on 9mm maybe thats because ive only shot 9mm out of sub polymer pistols. I always think of a snappy stout recoil with 9mm. I have a full sized polymer 40 cal baby desert eagle. No vertical recoil just a slight nudge back when you shoot. I do wish it were all metal! If I did get a 9mm it would probably be a cz shadow 2. I like that frame mounted safety so you can carry hammer back on safety.
Most of us have been down this road. They’re junk. Take them out. Also, guide rods take accuracy out of the gun. . Spring should be able to push up on the barrel.
I agree the shock buffs are not for everyone, but in terms of guide rod, does the bushing not hold the front of the barrel ? I would think a tight bushing fit would be more beneficial
@@Conklikov the barrel begins to move before the round has completely left .. upward spring pressure adds to the stability. That’s a pressurized explosion going on It’s not just parts moving back and forth. Another aggravation with guide rods is that you must spin your bushing in lockup to field strip the weapon. This increases wear. Guide rods don’t do anything positive for the gun. You can’t hand or surface cock the gun from the front if it has a rod either. .. shock buffs are okay imo if you shoot a lot.. but only if your extractor is the extended type. Otherwise it can and will cause a malfunction eventually.. and, it’s nearly impossible to eject a live round smoothly if you need to. and believe me, if your primer doesn’t go off, you need to be able to eject it quickly before you get hurt
My opinion is that they are cheap enough to try. If gun runs good with them they won’t hurt anything. Metal on metal contact over thousands of rounds can be hard on things. Steel on steel will last longest but steel on aluminum, you know what will wear out first
I have to ask, how many of these were used in WW1, or WW2, or the Korean war, or Vietnam? Hmm, what do you think, personalty I think it's just a way to lighten your pocket. 💸💸
U.S. government ball ammo was pretty soft shooting, definitely not hot loads. Modern loads can be a bit stiffer, some a lot more. +P loads are significantly faster, and can beat up a stock 1911 pretty quick. I recommend buffers and stiffer springs if shooting +P. For hot standard pressure loads (875 to 1000fps w/230gr bullet) get at least the buffer at a minimum.
These serve a purpose. High round count military units that were famous for 1911s use these to prevent stress fracture. Lotsa rounds over a lot of days add up.
Hey I have since ventured into 45 super and these seem like a must have in any conversion. Cheap insurance when running hot loads that are well beyond the manufacturer specs from 1911
This is does not make any sense ! in Beretta the buffer between the guid rod and slide , here in 1911 it is between the guid rod and the spring , it should be on the other side of the guide rod if you can otherwise it is useless ....
It’s on the guide rod because it is cushioning the slide as it’s pulled back when spring compresses. It works , it very much warps and breaks down due to impact over time.i get what your saying but if it’s not on the rod it could migrate and cause failures
My piece came with one already installed. I’m Used to GI style. I guess it makes it look cooler when the slide is locked back, I’m new to 1911 so don’t ask me about accuracy with the FLGR vs GI guide rod LoL.
They’re definitely not part of the original design and don’t really improve anything but some 1911’s come from the factory with them so when they do I’m like whatever and just leave it alone as they work. I do prefer 1911’s to be easy to disassemble without tools so I prefer the GI guide rod system and a snug but hand loose bushing. Just my 2 cents
I like them, not so much for frame longevity but more that they transform the recoil impulse from a "whack" to more of a softer "whump"
Great comment ya I noticed that as well I wouldn’t say it was super noticeable but your definitely right
Really? You may have me sold lol. Saw a WC video on upgrades and accessories and of course they promoted these little shock buffers.
Had a WC buffer come apart in my 1911 recently, and it definitely had less than a thousand rounds through it since installation. Amazingly, the pistol kept on working, but I could tell something wasn't right when hand cycling the slide. Knew immediately what the issue was, as there wasn't another explanation, and I was correct. I will likely keep running buffers, but will keep a careful eye on them before, during and after each range session.
Ya I mean they are a consumable for sure. I’m sure spring weight may have a factor but you are doing it right. Always good to check guns over regularly. I have yet to wear one out yet , but most of my 1911s only have a couple hundred rounds through them so I got probably a ways to go
Value add. See how long it lasts before replacement. Another good quick demo review 👍
Thanks! 👍 got it in my 45 super conversion I expect it to not last as long as regular 45 acp
Bought a used 1911 & when I took it apart I found the shok buff in pieces. So definitively inspect your weapon that sucker won’t last forever.
Ya no I believe Wilson combat states 1000 rd life expectancy they are surely a consumable made to be switched out like a set of brake pads on a car
Tru dat... I quit using them after beating one apart in a Combat Commander years ago...
Recently inherited a nice custom Les Baer from ‘90s. The shoc-buff was half gone in pieces inside the slide. I wondered why it was difficult to pull slide back while inspecting. Not being very familiar with these I did some research and yes mostly on custom types but helpful in maintaining a stellar handgun if firing a lot.
Good vid… I was alittle taken
Aback on his dis-assembly and re-assembly… 1-2-3… seemed abit backwards. But good vid otherwise.
Ya sometimes I disassemble this way for this particular firearm due to the full length guide rod and I have a 24 lb recoil spring set up for 45 super. It just makes it keep together
They work.
In my experience, they make last round slide lock so rare it might as qell not have a slide lock. This saddens me. I really enjoy dropping that slide into battery.
Hmm I have not ran into the issue of slide lock not working with the buffers. Il have to keep an eye out for that issue.
@@Conklikov I had a light spring in it (too light) with a shock buff and slide locked back no prob. Recoil impulse felt awesome But I noticed some peening where the VIS meets barrel bed so I went back to the 17lb.. no slide lock for me afterwards 🤔. If you have an idea for a fix, I'm entirely made out of ears RN👂
Does it say numbers out!???
& Flatside towards back of weapon???
you are compressing the spring by 1/10". Make sure the spring isnt completely compressed because the spring will become a solid steel tube. You may have to shorten the coil. Test it by locking up the slide. Remove the magazine and then pull the slide back to release the slide release. If it wont release on its own then the spring needs to be shortened so the slide can travel back far enough for the slide release to disengage.
Interesting. But seems like a lot of trouble lol. I’m no gunsmith.
Great point! I have not had issues with the spring and actually I’m converting to 45 super which most sources recommend a shock buff for that application
If the spring isn't stacking solid without the buff, it won't stack solid with the buff. The buffer shortens rearward slide travel by the thickness of the buff. The spring will be slightly more compressed...coils closer together...with the slide forward, but at the rearward limit, the distance between coils will be the same as without the buff.
That gun sounds so dry
It was a bit dry, I use some tetra gun grease on multiple areas and it always smooths right out
@@Conklikov lube with oil instead. Grease clings better yes, but lots of foreign debris can adhere to it and render it unreliable possibly. A quart of syn oil will last you a lifetime. Run that beauty wet !
Yes very dry, and sound like that thing is pushing the barrel up against the slide
@@ccshow5269 anything that sticks to grease is going to stick to oil.....stop repeating that myth
Wilson combat universal oil and lube
It should help with the hotter loads. I can't see a down side.
Ya, every downside is typically a hypothetical and assumes you will never clean or inspect your pistol, which most people should every 500 to 1000 rds anyways to check for any issues or potential fail points
downside for me was a big drop in reliability. I removed the one I installed and tossed them in the garbage. I'll deal with the recoil and have my reliability back thanks
@@rickw5024 my wife is very recoil sensitive and loves to shoot my 45 1911. Thanks for your comment you saved me money and a headache.
@@michaelsherfield3749 Do her a favor and pick up a 1911 in 9mm. It's the cats meow! All the benefits and looks with no drawbacks plus cheaper to shoot.
@@rickw5024 I'm not big on 9mm maybe thats because ive only shot 9mm out of sub polymer pistols. I always think of a snappy stout recoil with 9mm. I have a full sized polymer 40 cal baby desert eagle. No vertical recoil just a slight nudge back when you shoot. I do wish it were all metal! If I did get a 9mm it would probably be a cz shadow 2. I like that frame mounted safety so you can carry hammer back on safety.
Most of us have been down this road. They’re junk. Take them out. Also, guide rods take accuracy out of the gun. . Spring should be able to push up on the barrel.
I agree the shock buffs are not for everyone, but in terms of guide rod, does the bushing not hold the front of the barrel ? I would think a tight bushing fit would be more beneficial
@@Conklikov the barrel begins to move before the round has completely left .. upward spring pressure adds to the stability. That’s a pressurized explosion going on It’s not just parts moving back and forth.
Another aggravation with guide rods is that you must spin your bushing in lockup to field strip the weapon.
This increases wear.
Guide rods don’t do anything positive for the gun. You can’t hand or surface cock the gun from the front if it has a rod either.
.. shock buffs are okay imo if you shoot a lot.. but only if your extractor is the extended type. Otherwise it can and will cause a malfunction eventually.. and, it’s nearly impossible to eject a live round smoothly if you need to. and believe me, if your primer doesn’t go off, you need to be able to eject it quickly before you get hurt
These little things have such a split on opinion. I see many like them. But as many supporters criticize these. So leaves me like idk what to do lol.
My opinion is that they are cheap enough to try. If gun runs good with them they won’t hurt anything. Metal on metal contact over thousands of rounds can be hard on things. Steel on steel will last longest but steel on aluminum, you know what will wear out first
@@Conklikov would it be ok for commander size? And how can I safely believe these would be reliable? I carry my commander as a CC. Thanks.
Not recommended for commanders even by Wilson himself.
I have to ask, how many of these were used in WW1, or WW2, or the Korean war, or Vietnam? Hmm, what do you think, personalty I think it's just a way to lighten your pocket. 💸💸
U.S. government ball ammo was pretty soft shooting, definitely not hot loads. Modern loads can be a bit stiffer, some a lot more. +P loads are significantly faster, and can beat up a stock 1911 pretty quick. I recommend buffers and stiffer springs if shooting +P. For hot standard pressure loads (875 to 1000fps w/230gr bullet) get at least the buffer at a minimum.
How many automobiles were used on the Oregon Trail? Is it relevant?
These serve a purpose. High round count military units that were famous for 1911s use these to prevent stress fracture. Lotsa rounds over a lot of days add up.
Hey I have since ventured into 45 super and these seem like a must have in any conversion. Cheap insurance when running hot loads that are well beyond the manufacturer specs from 1911
This is does not make any sense ! in Beretta the buffer between the guid rod and slide , here in 1911 it is between the guid rod and the spring , it should be on the other side of the guide rod if you can otherwise it is useless ....
It’s on the guide rod because it is cushioning the slide as it’s pulled back when spring compresses. It works , it very much warps and breaks down due to impact over time.i get what your saying but if it’s not on the rod it could migrate and cause failures
Full length guide rods are useless.
My piece came with one already installed. I’m
Used to GI style. I guess it makes it look cooler when the slide is locked back, I’m new to 1911 so don’t ask me about accuracy with the FLGR vs GI guide rod LoL.
I won’t disagree with you, at best it adds weight, and functionality wise just feels a bit smoother. But they are not a necessity for sure
Do they work? Mine works..so
.theyre not useless at all tbh
They’re definitely not part of the original design and don’t really improve anything but some 1911’s come from the factory with them so when they do I’m like whatever and just leave it alone as they work. I do prefer 1911’s to be easy to disassemble without tools so I prefer the GI guide rod system and a snug but hand loose bushing. Just my 2 cents