Subaru EJ25 Short Block Assembly Part 1
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Its finally time to get my 500 hp capable Subaru ej25 short block assembled. In this video, I install the rods onto the crankshaft and seal the case halves. no piston installation in this video, because I am waiting on some parts. So stay tuned for that video coming shortly.
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Engine Build Sheet
JE Pistons 99.75mm 8.5:1 CR 296348
Brian Crower ProH2K Connecting Rods w/ ARP2000 Fasteners BC6609
ARP 2000 11mm Head Studs SKU ARP-260-4701
Subaru OEM Forged Salt Bath Nitrated Crankshaft
ARP Flywheel Bolts 260-2801
King XP-Series Coated Main Bearings MB5382XPG
KING XPG 52MM STANDARD TRI-METAL ROD BEARINGS WITH EXTRA OIL CLEARANCE CR4125XPGSTDX
Aisin TKF-004 Engine Timing Belt Kit with New Water Pump
SPEC Clutch Stage 2+ - Subaru WRX 2.5L turbo 2006-2016, SPEC Clutch SU203H
ACT StreetLite Flywheel
VEMS EJ COOLING BALANCE KIT VEMS-CBK-001
OEM 11MM STI OIL PUMP SUB-15010AA360
Moroso 24965 Oil Pump Pickup
Brian Crower Camshafts BC0621
Brian Crower Double Valve Springs BC0610
Brian Crower Intake Valves (36mm / STD) BC3600
Brian Crower Exhaust Valves (32mm / STD) BC3601
Group N Subaru Motor Mounts D1010FE110, D1010FE120
Group N Subaru 5 Speed Transmission Mount D1010FE020
GRIMMSPEED PITCH STOP MOUNT
Energy Susspension 19.1103R Transmission X-Member Bushings
Evey video makes me feel a little more confident for my own upcoming build
Glad to hear it!!
There's no way that engine is still alive with that silicone job
What are you talking about bro, there was nothing wrong with the silicone job on the engine and I have over 30k miles on it running strong
Lovely close up camera work dude, 👌
Thank you
just to clarify you tightened 90 degrees. and later in video you demonstrated a left rotation. just caught me offgaurd but great video doing this today actually thank you. i like the spread technique instead of the bead. kindof like putting a cpu on a motherboard lol !
Yeah you tighten to a torque spec. I don't remember what it was, but it should say in the video. Then once it's torqued to that number you turn it an additional 90 degrees. The case bolts are strech to yield that's why. As far as the left turn it may have just been a camera angle thing or the video was mirrored 😂
I literally read the manual wrong and snapped a case bolt A driver side the thread are now in there. Thought it was 88 ft. But was 88 inch pounds divided by 12. 7.3F lbs. Plus the 90. Now gotta split again and extract the bolt somehow and buy new set of bolts. Crazy day
Happens to the best of us, good luck with your project!
Nice relaxing engine build. You have a parts list to post?
Yeah I have a parts list I will post later today
@@SWSpeedCo Awesome. I have the same car as you. So I'm planning to build the engine soon.
Build sheet is in the description now, hope it helps with your build
Very good job 👏🏻 can you share with me the engine suitable torque?
Thank you, I explain the torque sequence and specs at 18:55
Honestly, should have put on the o-rings first then lubed the bearings . Then added the sealant. Iono thats just me.
Hello sir . Why you didn’t put a plastic gauge first?
Was that a park tool torque wrench???? 😂🤘🏼🤘🏼🔥🔥🔥
Yeah, my brother is big into mountain biking, and that torque wrench works great for small things
how did you clean the short block before starting the assembly? what type of rag did you use with the lacquer thinner?
Here is the link to the video where I cleaned the block.
ua-cam.com/video/dZQ9JKt9q9k/v-deo.html
The rag is a Scott's shop rag I believe, they are durable and lint free
If I’m getting a new crank shaft and rods at oem spec do I still need to measure for bearing size? If so how do I do that?
You can just order oem sized bearings but you still need to check the clearance using plastigauge
Great video! I recently had the short block replaced in my 2009 Subaru Forester XT due to excessive oil burning. A week after I got my car back from my Subaru dealership, I can still smell the oil. Is it because the new parts are still breaking in or the job wasn't done right? Thank you for your time.
Have you noticed any oil consumption on the dipstick
I was always a bit concerned about splitting the block. Back with my n/a Forester, I went as far as changing piston rings, since I was advised not to split the block. But how/when does one know when one has to bore/hone the crankshaft hole? Since not doing so properly can cause catastrophic failure on a motor..
I'm not sure, I guess when you install a different crankshaft. I'm pretty sure mine was line bored when I had the work done. I don't think it is critical but it is good to get done
@@SWSpeedCo Oh never mind, I was watching your other Piston Balancing video and realized you sent out yours to Out-front Motorsport. You also got a whole new crankshaft, ok. Nice!
Did you measure or check the clearances on your main or rod bearings
Yes, I just did it off camera with plastiguage