1:50 Here is a list of what the Cat Ratings of multimeters mean: CAT I Electronic Devices Anything from a small circuit board to larger device with high-voltage but low-energy CAT II Single-Phase AC Loads Appliances or portable tools CAT III Three-Phase Distribution Some large building lighting systems and polyphase motors CAT IV Three-Phase Utility Connections or Outdoor Conductors Electrical meters, outdoor connections, any low-voltage and high-energy connection Within these four levels, the IEC has set up transient test guidelines for each category. Measurement Category Working Voltage Transient Voltage Test Source (Impedance) CAT I 150 V 800 V 30 Ohms CAT I 300 V 1500 V 30 Ohms CAT I 600 V 2500 V 30 Ohms CAT I 1000 V 4000 V 30 Ohms CAT II 150 V 1500 V 12 Ohms CAT II 300 V 2500 V 12 Ohms CAT II 600 V 4000 V 12 Ohms CAT II 1000 V 6000 V 12 Ohms CAT III 150 V 2500 V 2 Ohms CAT III 300 V 4000 V 2 Ohms CAT III 600 V 6000 V 2 Ohms CAT III 1000 V 8000 V 2 Ohms CAT IV 150 V 4000 V 2 Ohms CAT IV 300 V 6000 V 2 Ohms CAT IV 600 V 8000 V 2 Ohms CAT IV 1000 V 12000 V 2 Ohms If we extend this to calculate the current for the working and transient voltages, you’ll see that even though two CAT ratings cover the same working voltage, that does NOT mean they are an equal. Measurement Category Working Voltage Transient Voltage Test Source (Impedance) Working Current Transient Current CAT I 150V 800V 30 Ohms 5A 26.6A CAT I 300V 1500V 30 Ohms 10A 50A CAT I 600V 2500V 30 Ohms 20A 83.3A CAT I 1000V 4000V 30 Ohms 33.3A 133.3A CAT II 150V 1500V 12 Ohms 12.5A 125A CAT II 300V 2500V 12 Ohms 25A 208.3A CAT II 600V 4000V 12 Ohms 50A 333.3A CAT II 1000V 6000V 12 Ohms 83.3A 500A CAT III 150V 2500V 2 Ohms 75A 1250A CAT III 300V 4000V 2 Ohms 150A 2000A CAT III 600V 6000V 2 Ohms 300A 3000A CAT III 1000V 8000V 2 Ohms 500A 4000A CAT IV 150V 4000V 2 Ohms 75A 2000A CAT IV 300V 6000V 2 Ohms 150A 3000A CAT IV 600V 8000V 2 Ohms 300A 4000A CAT IV 1000V 12000V 2 Ohms 500A 6000A
The beep in diode mode readings is very important for us that repair mobile phone boards. Indeed, few multimeters do that. I find the Fluke the best of them all
Thank you for the great informative video. I was curious to know why you did not use the REL function when measuring low value resistances to cancel out the resistance of the leads. You did that with the fluke by pressing the button on the selector switch.
Thank you, I hope to make time for tomorrow now. I am a commercial coffee machine engineer in Cornwall UK. Machines are becoming more electronically controlled. I am always trying to find out more. I see a lot of domestic machines with triac failures. Can they be tested in situ ?
Yeah usually you can 'test' them in circuit as Traic failures are almost always shorted, If one actually went open it will be because it actually exploded which is easy to spot visibly
The fact it uses multimeter probes is a limitation to the scope function, but as I discuss in this video it is also an advantage in some types of repair work when you are interested in go/no-go conditions
I didn't getto test the battery life. It was not fully charged out of the box, not least because this has been in transit for some weeks, but I didn't notice the battery draining significantly while I was reviewing it
the battery is 1500 mA charging time depends on your charger. the power consumption is 80mA for the multimeter and 300mA for the scope/signal generator. auto shut of is 15 min,this function can be disabeled.
This video presentation was preceded by an ad for Polinovel Batteries. The sales pitch was very impressive but it would be for an advert. Any chance of a review/teardown of such a device?
I think for car diagnostics you'd probably need something that could cope with the inevitable odd drop. I don't think these cheap meters are going to survive in the harsh work environment of car maintenance. Probably burst into ten pieces on the first drop 😆
Yes, at a certain point a the sawtooth wave becomes a sine wave. Inversely, it will become a square wave. Very over simplified I know but there you go.
Many DMM's have jacks with one inch spacing so those square wave edges may have looked better with a scope probe attached to a *BNC Female to Dual Banana Male Plug* like many other UA-cam presenters use (eg: Joe Smith famous for advanced DMM robustness testing).
Yeah this could work very well, I'm not sure I can test this on the live stream as I don't have an adapter but I could lash something together if i get time
@@LearnElectronicsRepair At 3 or 4 euro's it's handy to allow scope probes a direct BNC connection to instruments with 1 inch (centre) banana plug spacing (on good DMM's) and you can place a 50 ohm inline BNC terminator in there if needed. Maybe Det has one? Close-up pic is on UA-cam listed as *BNC Female to Dual Banana Plug Adapter **#1001* on ShowMeCables.
That depends to a fair extent on what sort of work you are intending to do. Personally I have a separate capacitance meter XC6013L CAPACITOR METER and that is what I use in my repair videos. There is an affiliate link in the video description and they are less than €16 on special offer at the moment. You may also want to get an ESR meter. But for a beginner just use a multimeter with built in capacitance range, and if you find it is not capable of measuring capacitors that you need to test (very low values for example) then get a dedicated one. You will still need a multimeter anyway
Hello Richard, would you also be able to review a 2-in-1 Multimeter / infrared thermal imager at some point? I was looking to purchase one but not sure about the quality. thank you for this review
Saw this contraption on another channel as well. It appears to be a Mustool-like scopemeter in a Habotest-like style outer shell. Nothing really to write home about, especially with things around like the Zoyi 702S/703S.
I like really flexible silicone test leads and those look very stiff to me. Not keen on meters with capacitance testing, unless that's all it does, but if the price is right it would be usable for some. I am after a new meter but I wouldn't buy that.
This is why I never really try to hard sell anything I review. I'll show some but maybe not all features in real life situations, try it out, give my own opinion on whether I liked it or not and I hope viewers find my reviews balanced and honest. I then leave it up to the viewer to decide if they are interested in the product or not. Some things I am offered to review (I do get these things for free) I decline simply because they are too similar to other products I previously reviewed or I feel they don't have the features I know viewers would want. I get offered a lot of 'generic' consumer electronics for free which I turn down as being 'out of context' for the channel. Also I will not accept any products to review if any pre-conditions (such as what to say about the item) are requested.
1:50 Here is a list of what the Cat Ratings of multimeters mean:
CAT I
Electronic Devices
Anything from a small circuit board to larger device with high-voltage but low-energy
CAT II
Single-Phase AC Loads
Appliances or portable tools
CAT III
Three-Phase Distribution
Some large building lighting systems and polyphase motors
CAT IV
Three-Phase Utility Connections or Outdoor Conductors
Electrical meters, outdoor connections, any low-voltage and high-energy connection
Within these four levels, the IEC has set up transient test guidelines for each category.
Measurement Category Working Voltage Transient Voltage Test Source (Impedance)
CAT I 150 V 800 V 30 Ohms
CAT I 300 V 1500 V 30 Ohms
CAT I 600 V 2500 V 30 Ohms
CAT I 1000 V 4000 V 30 Ohms
CAT II 150 V 1500 V 12 Ohms
CAT II 300 V 2500 V 12 Ohms
CAT II 600 V 4000 V 12 Ohms
CAT II 1000 V 6000 V 12 Ohms
CAT III 150 V 2500 V 2 Ohms
CAT III 300 V 4000 V 2 Ohms
CAT III 600 V 6000 V 2 Ohms
CAT III 1000 V 8000 V 2 Ohms
CAT IV 150 V 4000 V 2 Ohms
CAT IV 300 V 6000 V 2 Ohms
CAT IV 600 V 8000 V 2 Ohms
CAT IV 1000 V 12000 V 2 Ohms
If we extend this to calculate the current for the working and transient voltages, you’ll see that even though two CAT ratings cover the same working voltage, that does NOT mean they are an equal.
Measurement Category Working Voltage Transient Voltage Test Source (Impedance) Working Current Transient Current
CAT I 150V 800V 30 Ohms 5A 26.6A
CAT I 300V 1500V 30 Ohms 10A 50A
CAT I 600V 2500V 30 Ohms 20A 83.3A
CAT I 1000V 4000V 30 Ohms 33.3A 133.3A
CAT II 150V 1500V 12 Ohms 12.5A 125A
CAT II 300V 2500V 12 Ohms 25A 208.3A
CAT II 600V 4000V 12 Ohms 50A 333.3A
CAT II 1000V 6000V 12 Ohms 83.3A 500A
CAT III 150V 2500V 2 Ohms 75A 1250A
CAT III 300V 4000V 2 Ohms 150A 2000A
CAT III 600V 6000V 2 Ohms 300A 3000A
CAT III 1000V 8000V 2 Ohms 500A 4000A
CAT IV 150V 4000V 2 Ohms 75A 2000A
CAT IV 300V 6000V 2 Ohms 150A 3000A
CAT IV 600V 8000V 2 Ohms 300A 4000A
CAT IV 1000V 12000V 2 Ohms 500A 6000A
Thanks for the indepth information
Great results for a $90 Scope-Meter. 🥰 Thank you.
I will buy this one IF it survives Carlos and Det tomorrow evening.
24:10 You could switch between AC and DC by pressing the button on the far right.
The beep in diode mode readings is very important for us that repair mobile phone boards. Indeed, few multimeters do that. I find the Fluke the best of them all
The cheap Kaiweets HT118A is one that does have it. Fantastic multimeter, too.
Thank you for the great informative video.
I was curious to know why you did not use the REL function when measuring low value resistances to cancel out the resistance of the leads.
You did that with the fluke by pressing the button on the selector switch.
Noted the same thing too regarding REL.
@@MickMcMadder WIll try it on the livestream later today
Thanks
Thank you, I hope to make time for tomorrow now.
I am a commercial coffee machine engineer in Cornwall UK.
Machines are becoming more electronically controlled. I am always trying to find out more.
I see a lot of domestic machines with triac failures. Can they be tested in situ ?
Yeah usually you can 'test' them in circuit as Traic failures are almost always shorted, If one actually went open it will be because it actually exploded which is easy to spot visibly
Captain Koenig’s Multimeter. I like it! Sometimes I don’t want to mess with typical probes. Does the lack of 10x present a limitation?
The fact it uses multimeter probes is a limitation to the scope function, but as I discuss in this video it is also an advantage in some types of repair work when you are interested in go/no-go conditions
It seems to actually work. Nice for the ocational scope measurement to. Now how long can it run on a charge and how long does the charge take.
I didn't getto test the battery life. It was not fully charged out of the box, not least because this has been in transit for some weeks, but I didn't notice the battery draining significantly while I was reviewing it
the battery is 1500 mA charging time depends on your charger.
the power consumption is 80mA for the multimeter and 300mA for the scope/signal generator.
auto shut of is 15 min,this function can be disabeled.
@@trondhansen9896Thank you.
This video presentation was preceded by an ad for Polinovel Batteries.
The sales pitch was very impressive but it would be for an advert.
Any chance of a review/teardown of such a device?
I like the fact it does not have scope leads.
This would be awesome for working on cars as well.
I think for car diagnostics you'd probably need something that could cope with the inevitable odd drop. I don't think these cheap meters are going to survive in the harsh work environment of car maintenance. Probably burst into ten pieces on the first drop 😆
@@anthonydenn4345you are wrong...
Must have sold well, as the link now says ' not currently available"
Heya, looks like a very nice multimeter. to bad it doenn't have misterbleep
The ramp wave was what I call saw-tooth. does it matter that the ramp does not have sharp drop-off?
Yes, at a certain point a the sawtooth wave becomes a sine wave. Inversely, it will become a square wave. Very over simplified I know but there you go.
Many DMM's have jacks with one inch spacing so those square wave edges may have looked better with a scope probe attached to a *BNC Female to Dual Banana Male Plug* like many other UA-cam presenters use (eg: Joe Smith famous for advanced DMM robustness testing).
Yeah this could work very well, I'm not sure I can test this on the live stream as I don't have an adapter but I could lash something together if i get time
@@LearnElectronicsRepair At 3 or 4 euro's it's handy to allow scope probes a direct BNC connection to instruments with 1 inch (centre) banana plug spacing (on good DMM's) and you can place a 50 ohm inline BNC terminator in there if needed. Maybe Det has one? Close-up pic is on UA-cam listed as *BNC Female to Dual Banana Plug Adapter **#1001* on ShowMeCables.
G,day Richard. I'm wondering (as a beginner) what range of pf in a capacitor tester to purchase?
🌏🇦🇺
That depends to a fair extent on what sort of work you are intending to do. Personally I have a separate capacitance meter XC6013L CAPACITOR METER and that is what I use in my repair videos. There is an affiliate link in the video description and they are less than €16 on special offer at the moment. You may also want to get an ESR meter. But for a beginner just use a multimeter with built in capacitance range, and if you find it is not capable of measuring capacitors that you need to test (very low values for example) then get a dedicated one. You will still need a multimeter anyway
Hello Richard, would you also be able to review a 2-in-1 Multimeter / infrared thermal imager at some point? I was looking to purchase one but not sure about the quality. thank you for this review
Currently unavailable on Amazon.
I've told them - should have that fixed for tomorrow
Yep, in stock now.
Saw this contraption on another channel as well. It appears to be a Mustool-like scopemeter in a Habotest-like style outer shell. Nothing really to write home about, especially with things around like the Zoyi 702S/703S.
At 2 minutes it is the safe levels to not blow up the instrument. The headline needs to be read first.
Looks like the name means Go_China_Fix... always weird names from those longitudes, LOL
I like really flexible silicone test leads and those look very stiff to me. Not keen on meters with capacitance testing, unless that's all it does, but if the price is right it would be usable for some.
I am after a new meter but I wouldn't buy that.
This is why I never really try to hard sell anything I review. I'll show some but maybe not all features in real life situations, try it out, give my own opinion on whether I liked it or not and I hope viewers find my reviews balanced and honest. I then leave it up to the viewer to decide if they are interested in the product or not. Some things I am offered to review (I do get these things for free) I decline simply because they are too similar to other products I previously reviewed or I feel they don't have the features I know viewers would want. I get offered a lot of 'generic' consumer electronics for free which I turn down as being 'out of context' for the channel. Also I will not accept any products to review if any pre-conditions (such as what to say about the item) are requested.