I bought replacement LED strips to fix this problem but it didn't go away for my 65uh5500. When I followed this video to cut FAIL wire, it worked again! Now since I just proved my LEDs weren't bad, I immediately set my BACKLIGHT setting lower (it was set to 95, in fact, I may have set it higher a few days before the TV stopped working!) down to 65 or so, and when I reconnected the FAIL wire, it was STILL WORKING!! YAAAAY!!! So if this problem starts after you recently increased the BACKLIGHT setting to a higher setting and you shut off the TV, the next time it turns on, it is recovering that BACKLIGHT setting and may be drawing too much current (lets say if the LED are getting old but not fully failing) and tripping the FAIL circuit. By removing FAIL circuit temporarily to lower the BACKLIGHT, then reconnecting FAIL circuit, you've saved your TV but also kept the FAIL circuit in place. Just don't set your BACKLIGHT too high, or prepare to repeat this fix all over again! Hope this helps everyone out there!
Mr. Douglas Moyers, thank you very much for posting this video! My TV died on me a few days ago, I had the same issue with the TV and this fixed it! Thanks again for this awesome video, it saved my TV!
Tried several youtube videos before this one. This one worked! Thank you. This TV was a family TV and just figured it was a capacitor failure. They all looked good so dug in a little deeper and saw your post. Works 100%. I did just pull the wire out instead of cutting but that's the only difference. Again thanks for this post and let's not throw these TVs away and fill our landfills while emptying our billfold. Peace.
I can not thank ypu enough! I bought this same LG 65UH5500 4 years ago and had this same issue a year after i bought it, it was under warranty still so it was repaired by LG and worked fine... for about another year. Then it happend again, this time not under warranty, so the tv has sat in the basement since (about 2 years)! Then i stumble across this video and tried out your process,WORKS PERFECTLY! I cant believe it was this simple, im kicking myself for not doing it sooner, since i bought a higher end LG to replace this one and all i had to do was cut a god damn wire! Thanks Again!
Worked for me as well! Thanks for posting this, saved me from having to buy a new tv. I ended up having a few led strips burned out in the lower right corner but still very watchable.
I have the exact same TV, and i followed the instructions and IT WORKED!! I can't believe it, but it worked perfectly. I was able to fix my TV within 10 minutes. There were a lot of solutions suggested around replacing the power supply, but it seemed complicated and expensive. I just completed this fix Feb of 2023 and my picture is perfect! Thanks for a great solution!
my friend thank you so much for your help I'm feeling good because I was resolve my issues but I'm feeling so bad to see what the companies do just to make you spend more money this just blows my mind
Just had one of these sets come in a week ago, 1 LED out, decided to replace all with new aftermarket from ShopJimmy. Solved the start up issue only to find out the screen had a crack in the lower corner. Owner transported the TV in back of a pick-up wrapped in a drop cloth, must have slid & banged the corner, guess I should have been suspicious right away and got out my light before I took this in. I wish I had found this video sooner. I probably looked at over a dozen repair vids that either replaced the Tcon board or the LEDs, not to mention the huge litany of online complaints about this TV failing. Cutting that line might saved me a lot of time and some $$ but sadly, the screen is done and the repair pointless. Thank you for sharing this fix. Good find !!
@@matthewbainbridge9942 If you're mechanically inclined, it's doable. There are vids online (try ua-cam.com/users/bigdog8882) that show you how to accomplish this. Word of caution .... be VERY, VERY, VERY, careful handeling the panel (screen) Any flexing and you will crack it, it cannot be replaced. Take before pics, just incase you forget how it came apart. Keep all screws separate and mark were they came from. Be very careful when putting the frame back on around panel that the right screws are used and do not hit the panel when they go back in. I have a brand new set of lights for this model for a good price if you need them.
Boom. Worked for me. Am I correct in assuming that the worst thing to happen at this point is the potential for the LEDs to now burn out a lot faster? In other words, fire hazard isn’t a likely concern here?
Same model TV here. Tracing the FAIL connection on the back of the board shows me that jumper J4 connects the FAIL line to other circuitry on the power supply board. Simple - and easy to undo solution: snip J4, push one end aside, and cover with heatshrink/insulator. If this hack needs to be undone in the future, just pull off the insulation and solder the two butt ends of J4 together again. FYI - with the TV in fail mode, voltage on J4 is ~0.3V. Power off. Snip J4, power on again and the bottom of the J4 jumper on mine is reading +5.9V. So, a voltage is applied to this cct to shutdown the TV. Also - when failed - the 80V line is reading about 60V, the 13.2V line reads 9.1V.. When operating not in fail mode, the voltages per the markings on the board go to normal - 80V and 13.2V. Faulty LEDS or too sensitive / fail circuit - or a fail circuit with a problem. Dunno. I didn't want to get into an extensive teardown of this 5yo TV at this time. If this fix gets me another year or two out of it, great. Just finished mine up here about to reassemble - then I'll be sure to dial the brightness down!
Thanks. Worked for me as well. The only difference is the fail wire. Mine is the 11th from the top to down which is a black wire. I noticed the wires disposition was different in my TV. You just have to follow the diagram on the board and find the corresponding wire. But I do think the main problem is maybe a failure from the electric board. Thanks again
This should be Pinned, yeap, I just went for the first red one and it did not so moved on to the next "fix' it did not work, so I came to read the testimonials, yeap, to a man and woman this worked, and it did for me as well, Thanks for the post and to the OP for the Video. 🍁
Thanks for the video. This is the exact symptom that my TV (identical) is exhibiting. My question is, is the TV still working? This "fix" seems like it's just bypassing the TV's internal failure system which might indicate an underlying electrical issue that still exists.
Hi , I have the same issue , but when I keep clicking input button on remote it keeps blinking and then TV starts. Let me know how I can share the video. Lg support asks me to replace motherboard which I am not buying.. it’s a crazy response to my problem. It’s lg -OLED65C9PTA
Man! My fiance and I was sitting here watching your video nervous to snip that wire. Felt like one of us was hooked to a chair making a life or death decision. Figured we had nothing to lose and snipped it. I have to thank you, it worked like new! Outta curiosity Is yours still doing fine?
I have the same issue, i stumble with this video and was excited to try it out, unfortunately i have a 50" not a 60" same model tough but doesn’t have same components, as of now I'm still trying to figure out how to fix mine =( but thanks for the video I’m sure it has helped out a lot of us who went with this crappy TV
Lol.... so the "root cause" is that LG added an extra cable that was not needed. Got it. I do appreciate this video though because it shows how to quickly diagnose faulty LEDs. If your TV turns back on after you bypass the protection circuit as he did (hopefully by removing the pin, not cutting a cable), then you have bad LEDs, and should change them. If you feel the TV is not worth putting $100 into, then guess you could run it this way for a while. More LEDs will presumably eventually short, and take out the power supply. Anyones guess how long that would take.
This behavior is caused by something that's not right. Now, it can be nothing but a bad feedback because of some minor reason. It can also be because of too much something and this must be corrected. Usually, along the LED power supply line capacitors could be bad and changing them would cost very little and the tv will still work for many years to come. But this way it will eventually stop working and the damage will be far greater than what it is now. What was shown in this clip is only the identification of the problem. It's maybe level 2. Level 3 will be to identify the culprit (culprits) and to actually fix it. Anyway, check the temperatures at the voltage generators while tv is on with an infrared thermometer. If temperatures are within normal range in 2 hours then the TV will be fine. I say 2 hours because the case is open.
Hello I don't have fail red wire as 11th wire but its black which is correspond to fail wire. Also I am geting 69.1 volt on 5 connection before the ground wire and I am getting zero volt reading on 5 wire. On fail wire nothing and rest 3 wire I am getting 11 volt and nothing on PSON. So it suppose to to 80 volt reading on 5 connection or 60 volt? Also why the fail wire is black insted of red as I see in your video.
Thank you Douglas Moyers this worked for me last night. Same tv. I cut the wire and didn't wrap it with electric tape before putting the whole tv bag together and mounting on my wall. You think I'll have issues? Will let you know how long this fix lasts. Would you know if the current generation LG OLED 4k TVs will have similar issues in the future? Thank you again!!!
Hi Douglas. I think this has happened to me on a different model LG tv. Mine is 42lb 585 v. Do you know, does this have a fail wire?. If so, I can't find it. Could it have a different name, or way to identify it? Thanks, Richard
My TV has same problem, I've LG logo (without backlight) and then always blinking non-stop. I have to remove alim cable to stop blinking. Is that the same issue ?
I got the LG TV from Wal-Mart in 2008 and it cost a lot of money but I have a little trouble on my tv the red light blinks 3 times, turn blue, back to red and will not turn on!
Most likely that fail wire is a safety that shut off the power of the tv when one of the led diodes on the screen is starting to short out, by cutting the wire you just disconnected the safety that was preventing more demage...🤷
This is only a band-aid fix (but the problem is the led on mine are out on the lower part of the screen so needs to be taken apart and all 24 strips replace big job for a nonsmart tv set
Hi, am I mistaken? The top voltages in relation to the plug read 80v on the board, not 60! .... Right? But as I measure with my multi meter I read 61v. any clarification on that?
I had this same issue. My TV sound works, I can change channels but no picture. It lights up so the led seems to be working. Turned it off for 6 hours and turned it back on and same issue. Change the power, then and main boards and same issue. Cut the TV off, held the power button down for 30 second waited turned on and same issue. Disconnected the TV held the power button down 30 seconds. Plugged it back up and same issue. My model # 75uk6190pub. The power button has never flashed before it went out. Now the only thing I've noticed that changed is it flashes 3 times then powers own. Sound and functional but still, no picture.
Hi genius idea just did it to mine but was wondering are you still using this tv now with the same wire cut I did it but my wife is worried I’ll burn the house down lmao but if yours is still going strong I’m sure mine will too!
i need help i have the same issue but different. to turn on the TV using Remote i have to click it 3 times and after i turn it on it blinks but everything else works fine. what could be the issue?
I'm glad its working for you Jose. My tv has been running fine since I posted this. I turned the brightness down to keep the LED current draw to a minimum as a precaution. I had the brightness set to 100% when the problem occurred. I believe I set to 60% after I cut the feedback wire
Douglas Moyers thanks for the response, I did turn down the brightness also to 80% , I hope I have tv for long, seen different solutions to solve the problem but yours was simple and fast , thanks again for sharing !
This may get your tv working for the time being but is meant to shut the tv down because of it seeing a problem. With this wire cut your tv could catch fire and burn your house down. Most times on this model it is trying to tell you that one of the led strips is bad.
Thanks for the input Shawn. As with any UL or CE approved consumer appliance, these type of failures are tested to assure that any failure mode cannot cause a fire. As with any feedback wire or sensor in any electronic/microcontroller device, it is understood that it may open or short at any time throughout the life of the product. This particular failure is factored into the design FMEA and tested to ensure materials/components cannot overheat and combust. The physics of a Class 2 (isolated) power supply cannot achieve enough amperage in any case whatsoever to deliver to a shorted circuit such as an LED strip in this case to cause a wire to glow hot or ignite a component. In summary: a cut wire or poorly connected wire happens frequently the life of all electronics. These types of failures are considered in UL, CUL and CE approved products. The worse case scenario here would be perhaps that the power supply would get damaged and not function anymore
Won’t buy another lg for sure ,mines powers up shows lg then straight to black , I took off the back the power supply board is flashing Code is 9 times
I bought replacement LED strips to fix this problem but it didn't go away for my 65uh5500. When I followed this video to cut FAIL wire, it worked again! Now since I just proved my LEDs weren't bad, I immediately set my BACKLIGHT setting lower (it was set to 95, in fact, I may have set it higher a few days before the TV stopped working!) down to 65 or so, and when I reconnected the FAIL wire, it was STILL WORKING!! YAAAAY!!!
So if this problem starts after you recently increased the BACKLIGHT setting to a higher setting and you shut off the TV, the next time it turns on, it is recovering that BACKLIGHT setting and may be drawing too much current (lets say if the LED are getting old but not fully failing) and tripping the FAIL circuit. By removing FAIL circuit temporarily to lower the BACKLIGHT, then reconnecting FAIL circuit, you've saved your TV but also kept the FAIL circuit in place.
Just don't set your BACKLIGHT too high, or prepare to repeat this fix all over again! Hope this helps everyone out there!
Mr. Douglas Moyers, thank you very much for posting this video! My TV died on me a few days ago, I had the same issue with the TV and this fixed it! Thanks again for this awesome video, it saved my TV!
Tried several youtube videos before this one. This one worked! Thank you. This TV was a family TV and just figured it was a capacitor failure. They all looked good so dug in a little deeper and saw your post. Works 100%. I did just pull the wire out instead of cutting but that's the only difference. Again thanks for this post and let's not throw these TVs away and fill our landfills while emptying our billfold. Peace.
I can not thank ypu enough! I bought this same LG 65UH5500 4 years ago and had this same issue a year after i bought it, it was under warranty still so it was repaired by LG and worked fine... for about another year. Then it happend again, this time not under warranty, so the tv has sat in the basement since (about 2 years)! Then i stumble across this video and tried out your process,WORKS PERFECTLY! I cant believe it was this simple, im kicking myself for not doing it sooner, since i bought a higher end LG to replace this one and all i had to do was cut a god damn wire! Thanks Again!
Doug, thank you you sir!!!! I followed your exact instructions to a "T" and guess what the TV powered up and is fixed! yes it saved my TV.
Worked for me as well! Thanks for posting this, saved me from having to buy a new tv. I ended up having a few led strips burned out in the lower right corner but still very watchable.
Had this same issue. Replaced the power supply to no avail. Luckily found this video and cut the fail wire! Worked. Really good video.
I have the exact same TV, and i followed the instructions and IT WORKED!! I can't believe it, but it worked perfectly. I was able to fix my TV within 10 minutes. There were a lot of solutions suggested around replacing the power supply, but it seemed complicated and expensive. I just completed this fix Feb of 2023 and my picture is perfect! Thanks for a great solution!
Brilliant! Thanks Douglas this fixed the same problem mine had! I was going to put it to the curve but now I can get more life out of it!!!
I'm glad it worked out for you Bill. I was in the same boat as you...either cut the wire or junk it
This worked for me as well! I have the exact same tv. Thank you for making this video!
my friend thank you so much for your help I'm feeling good because I was resolve my issues but I'm feeling so bad to see what the companies do just to make you spend more money this just blows my mind
It was the black wire for me to make it work. So pay attention to the pin out labeled above the connector. Thanks some much for posting this.
same for me in 2024!
Just had one of these sets come in a week ago, 1 LED out, decided to replace all with new aftermarket from ShopJimmy. Solved the start up issue only to find out the screen had a crack in the lower corner. Owner transported the TV in back of a pick-up wrapped in a drop cloth, must have slid & banged the corner, guess I should have been suspicious right away and got out my light before I took this in. I wish I had found this video sooner. I probably looked at over a dozen repair vids that either replaced the Tcon board or the LEDs, not to mention the huge litany of online complaints about this TV failing. Cutting that line might saved me a lot of time and some $$ but sadly, the screen is done and the repair pointless. Thank you for sharing this fix. Good find !!
How in depth is the repair replacing the LEDs?
@@matthewbainbridge9942 If you're mechanically inclined, it's doable. There are vids online (try ua-cam.com/users/bigdog8882) that show you how to accomplish this. Word of caution .... be VERY, VERY, VERY, careful handeling the panel (screen) Any flexing and you will crack it, it cannot be replaced. Take before pics, just incase you forget how it came apart. Keep all screws separate and mark were they came from. Be very careful when putting the frame back on around panel that the right screws are used and do not hit the panel when they go back in. I have a brand new set of lights for this model for a good price if you need them.
Thank you so much. These fixed my TV! Saved me a lot of $$$ for simple fix.. thanks
Thank you for the video, first I didn't wanted to do it but it saved me lots of money. My TV is back on.
Thank you .. u save me from spending 800 dollars on a new tv. I cut the wire plug it in and it turned on
8 months later of your coment... Your tv is working yet?
Boom. Worked for me. Am I correct in assuming that the worst thing to happen at this point is the potential for the LEDs to now burn out a lot faster?
In other words, fire hazard isn’t a likely concern here?
Going to give this a shot! Already bought a new TV for the living room, but why not have a 65” in the bedroom if this works! I’ll let ya know!
Worked like a charm!! Thanks for posting this
Same model TV here. Tracing the FAIL connection on the back of the board shows me that jumper J4 connects the FAIL line to other circuitry on the power supply board. Simple - and easy to undo solution: snip J4, push one end aside, and cover with heatshrink/insulator. If this hack needs to be undone in the future, just pull off the insulation and solder the two butt ends of J4 together again.
FYI - with the TV in fail mode, voltage on J4 is ~0.3V. Power off. Snip J4, power on again and the bottom of the J4 jumper on mine is reading +5.9V. So, a voltage is applied to this cct to shutdown the TV.
Also - when failed - the 80V line is reading about 60V, the 13.2V line reads 9.1V.. When operating not in fail mode, the voltages per the markings on the board go to normal - 80V and 13.2V.
Faulty LEDS or too sensitive / fail circuit - or a fail circuit with a problem. Dunno. I didn't want to get into an extensive teardown of this 5yo TV at this time. If this fix gets me another year or two out of it, great.
Just finished mine up here about to reassemble - then I'll be sure to dial the brightness down!
Thank you very much! This helped me to diagnose that I had a bad strip of backlight LEDS.
Brilliant!... my wire was black, 5th from bottom...so far so good
Thanks. Worked for me as well. The only difference is the fail wire. Mine is the 11th from the top to down which is a black wire. I noticed the wires disposition was different in my TV. You just have to follow the diagram on the board and find the corresponding wire. But I do think the main problem is maybe a failure from the electric board. Thanks again
Does yours say "fail" or something different? I have the 50 in model thar does not have a "fail" on my board
This should be Pinned, yeap, I just went for the first red one and it did not so moved on to the next "fix' it did not work, so I came to read the testimonials, yeap, to a man and woman this worked, and it did for me as well,
Thanks for the post and to the OP for the Video. 🍁
Thank you for the tip you same me a lot of money with your tip I can't thank you enough
I just did this and it worked!! Thank you 😊
Doug, you da man! Picture back. Thanks for your video.
Yep just did it. It worked!! So easy to do!!!
Thanks for the video. This is the exact symptom that my TV (identical) is exhibiting. My question is, is the TV still working? This "fix" seems like it's just bypassing the TV's internal failure system which might indicate an underlying electrical issue that still exists.
from other videos, the problem is probably a failed LED back light which doesn't have a lot of charge
Thank you that worked perfectly
Hey all! Thanks for the responses. Yes my TV is still working like nothing ever happened.
And now ?
Hi , I have the same issue , but when I keep clicking input button on remote it keeps blinking and then TV starts. Let me know how I can share the video.
Lg support asks me to replace motherboard which I am not buying.. it’s a crazy response to my problem.
It’s lg -OLED65C9PTA
Holy cow! Fixed mine right now!
Man! My fiance and I was sitting here watching your video nervous to snip that wire. Felt like one of us was hooked to a chair making a life or death decision. Figured we had nothing to lose and snipped it. I have to thank you, it worked like new! Outta curiosity Is yours still doing fine?
I have the same issue, i stumble with this video and was excited to try it out, unfortunately i have a 50" not a 60" same model tough but doesn’t have same components, as of now I'm still trying to figure out how to fix mine =( but thanks for the video I’m sure it has helped out a lot of us who went with this crappy TV
have u figured it out?
@@thevibe2985 i found a video just havent gotten to doing it, it appears to be the LED that needs replacement
ua-cam.com/video/4GYdI8f39BU/v-deo.html
Thank you for your video it's really help me to fix my TV.
That was painful! Dude, you never cut wires! Good grief makes me feel like I have seen some of your stuff come in the shop 😞
Worked out great for me, thanks for the fix.
Your tv is working yet???
Lol.... so the "root cause" is that LG added an extra cable that was not needed. Got it.
I do appreciate this video though because it shows how to quickly diagnose faulty LEDs. If your TV turns back on after you bypass the protection circuit as he did (hopefully by removing the pin, not cutting a cable), then you have bad LEDs, and should change them. If you feel the TV is not worth putting $100 into, then guess you could run it this way for a while. More LEDs will presumably eventually short, and take out the power supply. Anyones guess how long that would take.
Muchas gracias, ya tengo televisión otravez para seguir viendo fútbol. Que viva Guate 0ts!
I would like to say thank this really worked WOW 👍🏻
Worked for me as well. Are there any long term consequences?
Watching from Philippines
Work well for my TV. Thanks Millions
Incorrectly refers to J4 which is a jumper vs. Connector C2 (hard to read with bad camera work) but otherwise a useful video -thank-you.
Hi Douglas. My LG tv don’t have fail line. It only has MS, PDIM, POWER ON, NC. What line do i need to cut here?
Mine doesn't either, did you find a solution?
Thanks for the vid saved me a lot of money 👍🏼
Great fix!! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks Man. Worked great 💯
This behavior is caused by something that's not right. Now, it can be nothing but a bad feedback because of some minor reason. It can also be because of too much something and this must be corrected. Usually, along the LED power supply line capacitors could be bad and changing them would cost very little and the tv will still work for many years to come. But this way it will eventually stop working and the damage will be far greater than what it is now. What was shown in this clip is only the identification of the problem. It's maybe level 2. Level 3 will be to identify the culprit (culprits) and to actually fix it.
Anyway, check the temperatures at the voltage generators while tv is on with an infrared thermometer. If temperatures are within normal range in 2 hours then the TV will be fine. I say 2 hours because the case is open.
Hello I don't have fail red wire as 11th wire but its black which is correspond to fail wire. Also I am geting 69.1 volt on 5 connection before the ground wire and I am getting zero volt reading on 5 wire. On fail wire nothing and rest 3 wire I am getting 11 volt and nothing on PSON. So it suppose to to 80 volt reading on 5 connection or 60 volt? Also why the fail wire is black insted of red as I see in your video.
Thank you Douglas Moyers this worked for me last night. Same tv. I cut the wire and didn't wrap it with electric tape before putting the whole tv bag together and mounting on my wall. You think I'll have issues? Will let you know how long this fix lasts.
Would you know if the current generation LG OLED 4k TVs will have similar issues in the future?
Thank you again!!!
Hi Douglas. I think this has happened to me on a different model LG tv. Mine is 42lb 585 v. Do you know, does this have a fail wire?. If so, I can't find it. Could it have a different name, or way to identify it? Thanks, Richard
Hi! I did that to my TV. It worked great for 2 years and now the screen is out again. Any suggestions?
My TV has same problem, I've LG logo (without backlight) and then always blinking non-stop. I have to remove alim cable to stop blinking. Is that the same issue ?
I got the LG TV from Wal-Mart in 2008 and it cost a lot of money but I have a little trouble on my tv the red light blinks 3 times, turn blue, back to red and will not turn on!
you are the best thank you
Mine doesn’t say fail, how do I know which one it could be?
Dayum, mine has the same problem apparently but no magic "fail" cable :P .... it's a 47LB700V .... Thanks anyway :)
If you have bad LED backlight then it will fail. Cutting wires is not a good idea.
Most likely that fail wire is a safety that shut off the power of the tv when one of the led diodes on the screen is starting to short out, by cutting the wire you just disconnected the safety that was preventing more demage...🤷
This is only a band-aid fix (but the problem is the led on mine are out on the lower part of the screen so needs to be taken apart and all 24 strips replace big job for a nonsmart tv set
Hi, am I mistaken? The top voltages in relation to the plug read 80v on the board, not 60! .... Right? But as I measure with my multi meter I read 61v. any clarification on that?
Is the pin marked STB the standby pin on these models? I’m trying to diagnose mine and I don’t get a voltage reading when I test it
I had this same issue. My TV sound works, I can change channels but no picture. It lights up so the led seems to be working. Turned it off for 6 hours and turned it back on and same issue. Change the power, then and main boards and same issue. Cut the TV off, held the power button down for 30 second waited turned on and same issue. Disconnected the TV held the power button down 30 seconds. Plugged it back up and same issue. My model # 75uk6190pub. The power button has never flashed before it went out. Now the only thing I've noticed that changed is it flashes 3 times then powers own. Sound and functional but still, no picture.
wow.. let me give it a try. same symptom on my LG 50PG20R.
What about for a lg 50 inch tv?
Hi genius idea just did it to mine but was wondering are you still using this tv now with the same wire cut I did it but my wife is worried I’ll burn the house down lmao but if yours is still going strong I’m sure mine will too!
i need help i have the same issue but different. to turn on the TV using Remote i have to click it 3 times and after i turn it on it blinks but everything else works fine. what could be the issue?
My wires are backwards from yours whys that?
I have the same model as you
Is it that work on LG C9 I have the same problem?
I just did that to mine , thank you , it works , but how long ago did you do yours and is it still working ?
I'm glad its working for you Jose. My tv has been running fine since I posted this. I turned the brightness down to keep the LED current draw to a minimum as a precaution. I had the brightness set to 100% when the problem occurred. I believe I set to 60% after I cut the feedback wire
Douglas Moyers thanks for the response, I did turn down the brightness also to 80% , I hope I have tv for long, seen different solutions to solve the problem but yours was simple and fast , thanks again for sharing !
Do you do anything to the wire ends after cutting them? Is it safe to have open ended wires hanging free in the back of the TV.?
not at all.wrap up with electrical tape
so i just cut the fail wire? lol
What if it come on an stay on but like it froze on the lg when u turn it on
Sok duma, csak a lényeg nincs. Miért is villog a LED 3-szor?
Thnks fitsy my tv
my lg tv power board doesnt have a fail wire
This may get your tv working for the time being but is meant to shut the tv down because of it seeing a problem. With this wire cut your tv could catch fire and burn your house down. Most times on this model it is trying to tell you that one of the led strips is bad.
Thanks for the input Shawn. As with any UL or CE approved consumer appliance, these type of failures are tested to assure that any failure mode cannot cause a fire. As with any feedback wire or sensor in any electronic/microcontroller device, it is understood that it may open or short at any time throughout the life of the product. This particular failure is factored into the design FMEA and tested to ensure materials/components cannot overheat and combust. The physics of a Class 2 (isolated) power supply cannot achieve enough amperage in any case whatsoever to deliver to a shorted circuit such as an LED strip in this case to cause a wire to glow hot or ignite a component. In summary: a cut wire or poorly connected wire happens frequently the life of all electronics. These types of failures are considered in UL, CUL and CE approved products. The worse case scenario here would be perhaps that the power supply would get damaged and not function anymore
That fail circuit is the protection that makes it ul certified.
@@douglasmoyers2260 hi, i have another lg tv and doesnt have the fail cord, only p-dim and invon, am i out of luck
@@myonlyaccount I have the same thing did you find anything out
@@justinanthony2011 didnt find out so i got another tv 😓
Won’t buy another lg for sure ,mines powers up shows lg then straight to black , I took off the back the power supply board is flashing Code is 9 times
How to open it?
Dang the 55 doesn't have that
so unrelaxing wathing this whole video.. not help alot.. too many pep talk...
Sweet English bro
Does this work on any lg smart tv model?