Matthias - Your videos just never cease to amaze me. You continue to solve difficult problems with seeming ease. You make it look so simple, but in fact it's your ingenious mind at work that is simplifying things. I have learned so so much from your videos so thank you so much.
Forgive what may be a long polemic, but there is a point to the following story ... Back during WWII, in 1941-42, the Royal Air Force (RAF) need an aircraft that flew as fast as a fighter, but still big enough to be a bomber. Due to a lack of metal, it also had to be made mostly of wood. Enter the DeHavilland Mosquito. Known as the 'Mossy' and 'The Wooden Wonder', she was highly favoured by her RAF aircrew, as she exceeded expectations, so much so, her role was considerable exanded to also include being a night fighter, and the incredibly dangerous 'Pathfinder missions; she became one of the few multi-role aircraft of the era that continued to fly into the 50's. As she was made almost entirely of wood, only the very best carpenters were employed to construct the critical parts of the fuselage, wings, etc. These men, and, iirc, women, were given a odd moniker ... 'chippy joiner'. But to be called a 'chippy joiner' was a mark of high esteem, as they were highly skilled engineers and woodworkers both, working to incredibly tight tolerances as wood allows. To me, Mr. Wandel is a 'chippy joiner' ...
now you're talking my language! although "3 tpi metal saw" are the four (?) scariest words you could've put together. You're a braver man than I! enjoyed.
The machines those particular blades are intended for are several times more powerful and much more rigidly constructed, for cutting heavy metal sections at (surprisingly) high speed. Not something you would be doing at home.
Very nice. As a machinist, I feel like your observations are spot on. The only bigger stuff I've cut on a bandsaw are typically brass or plastics, Most of the time fancy shapes are cast and then finished.
I've always found it interesting that we all assume that aluminum will cut so much faster but it's inherent softness is exactly what slows it down. For cutting aluminum the larger tooth gaps are key. For steel I usually use 16-24 tpi blades where a 3-6 tpi is more efficient for aluminum. As always, great video.
I have a 93.5 inch Jet Bandsaw. I placed a small brush to clean off the sawdust on the lower wheel. It has kept the sawdust off both wheels for years and works great. Just a fyi...
I initially ran my first wood cutting saw without tires. WOrked fine, but narow blades dug into the wood over time, and it was louder. Neither of these would be a problem with wider metal cutting blades running slowly.
+Matthias Wandel Put the magnet in a plastic housing then to clean it you just take the magnet out and all the shaving drop off. Seen people do that to clean shavings off the floor in workshop.
I've made chip collectors by sawing a slot lengthways in a piece of PVC pipe that will fit into the end of a shop vac hose. Then I mount it under the table so it tilts slightly upward at the open end with the blade riding in the slot. Hooking the vac to the pipe creates really high velocity suction and airflow around the blade and does a real good job of extracting chips before they ever get down to the wheel. Haven't done it to a metal cutting saw but no reason to believe it wouldn't work.
Nice Job, Matthias! You could use that same 2 motor setup with a similar pulley concept to make a REALLY FAST Bandsaw. I enjoy watching you problem solving process, so please keep showing the parts that don't work along with your successes. A small part of me only watches to hear the home town accent - I grew up in Dorchester before I moved to Denver in the early 90's. Thanks for posting.
really cool, good idea to get multi speed to switch back and forth between metal and wood. however if you do not mind switching the blades you can keep the fast speed and cut even hardened steel super fast. this method is called friction cutting i think. this will only work for straight cuts. the blade will continue to cut metal no issue, but not wood any more. i do that on my 14 inch delta all the time, in fact been thinking of speeding it up for metal!
Matthias I have an interesting video idea for you. I like to thread wood and use bolts to hold things in my jigs which works amazingly well. Maybe you could set up a test apparatus to test the holding strength of machine bolts in diff species of various thicknesses. I for one would be interested.
How about making a cone continuously variable transmission for the bandsaw Matthias? You've got all the tools, materials, machines and skills you would need for that.
Metal cutting will always be very slow, Mr. Wandel. I remember a metal shop project cutting out a trowel blade from 1/16 and took forever. A lot better than wearing your arm with a hacksaw any day.
Part of the reason the blade stays cool is that the chips are hot, this is a feature of circular metal cutting saws called Cold Saws but I'm sure your blade is doing this to some extent as well. The geometry of the teeth is such that most of the heat ends up in the chip, which is then removed from the blade and the curf, leaving the blade and the material with minimal heating. In this way the chips serve as coolant for dry cutting. You'll probably find that with any amount of curve this effect will be superceeded by friction of the blade on the sides of the cut, so cutting straight is imperative to long blade life.
I set up an industrial vertical bandsaw in our workshop which comes with a 6tpi wood cutting blade as standard and put a 13tpi metal cutting blade on without changing anything else and it cuts steel and aluminium perfectly fine up to 6mm/.25", but it's just a bit too slow for anything thicker (that's what plasma or oxy/acet is for). The slight (?) difference between ours and your DIY is that it has a built-in nozzle which blows a stream of air and keeps chips mostly out of the innards. . Incidently: TC insert router bits work perfectly well on aluminium in an ordinary router, although smearing a hard wax lube on the metal first isn't such a bad idea.
Flip your vise over! Flip your vise over so the jaws are down, put the material in between the jaws, still sitting on the table, tighten. This way the material is supported on either side of the cut and when you break through as at 7:36, it is less likely to jam the blade. Also, clamping force on the piece is less important for holding the piece square to the table.
Matthias, not sure how slow it is but all metal cutting band saws cut slow. If you are used to cutting wood, then you'll feel it's slow but if you are used to a hack saw you'll think that they are quick and a godsend. Hey if the first motor was a permanent magnet motor, would you be able to somehow feed the induced emf back to the first one. As always, very inspirational work.
We had a blade like that last one you ran on a horizontal bandsaw in a machine shop I worked in. It could cut through cold rolled steel almost like it was pine. I would clamp 3, or 4 bars of steel together on the roller table and let that saw cut them all at once. You'd have liked that saw. It had hydraulic power stock feed. So when it got done with a cut it would lift itself up, open its vise, then another vise would push the stock forward. That saw was accurate to better than a thousandth of an inch all day long. What that saw did didn't even look possible.
I can slow down my woodcutting bandsaw as well for metal. Really like that when I need to cut a lot of metal much cleaner and quieter than the angle grinder.
@@jbh.6257 I don´t know.. the bandsaw had 2 fixed speeds. Fast for wood and slow for metal, don´t know the number. I have sold the bandsaw maybe a year ago so I don´t have the blades anymore either, if I recall correctly it probably was a 14tpi blade.
I just converted a small wood cutting bandsaw to metal as my shop becomes more geared towards metal working. It's definitely a shock with how slow the cutting action is lol
Enjoyed your video. Planning to make the changes to my band saw and wondering if the attached controller would work. Found this on Amazon L&Z DC Motor Speed Controller PWM 6-90V 15A Brush Motor Adjustment Control Module 1000W 16kHZ Brand: L&Z 3.5 out of 5 stars 27 ratings $29.99
When dealing with things that take a long time to cut and snag on the blad easily, perhaps you could make a screw-advance jig with a large gearing ratio so theres no chance of pushing the piece too far?
So I'm aware that this video is nearly 4 years old, and I'm aware that this was just an experiment. However... I'm really disappointed that you didn't build a 2 speed wooden planetary gear-set that tucks neatly behind the lower wheel and is actuated by a knob on the front! :D
Someone else way down in the comments has probably already said it, but if not... you can run your blade faster, 250 sfpm or so for mild steel up to an inch thick or so. As long as the blade isn't overheating, you can go faster. That's one advantage of a longer blade: more time to cool between passes through the material. I've thought about making some heatsink cooling wheels or even a small cooling fan, but haven't gotten around to trying it yet.
Make a guide for your vise. Vise is tied to a string, attached to a weight hanging off the table. You can go off and doing other things, while still keeping an eye on it. Just enough weight to keep some tension against the blade. Old timers trick.
Nice try, but I'm still going to buy that 4x6 metal cutting bandsaw. ;-) I'm curious if that will be any use on wood, at all. They have a worm drive to get around that speed/belt problem you encountered.
I do have a decent table saw, a but whenever I see you cut crazy tight curves in thick pieces of wood I suddenly want a bandsaw. ;-) The 4x6 flips up for vertical cutting, and I was wondering if it might work for wood in that mode, albeit slow and with rather limited throat. It'll be useful anyway, even if the wood thing won't pan out.
Hi Love your videos. Question for you. At 1:26 you use a hand drill to get your shaft hole but you don't use a drill guide to keep it at 90 degrees. Is there a reason? Do you not like drill guides? I'm looking at one for my shaft holes because I can't drill a straight hole to save my life.
Thanks. My shaky left hand makes it rough to hold things without help. Since you are so good thought I'd ask. Well great job anyway. You do always amaze me. Keep up the great projects.
whew, at of all your amazing videos, i have to say this is the most initially "red-flag" video. when the flange was being cut off after removing the table from your excellent band-saw, I cringed. if parallel grain was caught in regards to blade/teeth travel, holy mackerel it could have taken your hand into the band saw blade. I've been lucky enough to learn from mangled push-sticks, etc. that when a blade catches plywood grain just right, WOW, devastation. i know how meticulous you are and you are incredibly humble showing your "mistakes" (which is my favorite part of your videos because it shows a true woodworker's process, unedited), please caution viewers on this matter. none the less...the rest of the video/process is wonderful. thanks again matthias, please continue your efforts, i love following your progress and projects. :-) loyal viewer, Patrick ps: i am aware that you are familiar with your machines and how well they are built/ limitation but someone following you might not be so aware or lucky. I am in no way questioning your skill, it's just a cautionary comment.
I was going to say; speed it up! ;) I have done similar experiments with a cheap wood bandsaw, because I didn't want to spend money on a proper metal bandsaw, and it was quite successful actually. I have found that 13TPI blades may actually be too many teeth for metal. I have started using fewer TPI on my proper metal bandsaw, and I run them slightly faster. And that seems to yield a decent balance between cut smoothness and speed. =)
Yeah, I agree. Definitely run it faster for Aluminium, cause its quite a soft material (relatively speaking). If you are going to cut a lot of metal, I would use a dedicated bandsaw. And you're going to need coolant, which won't work very well with a wooden frame saw. That's where the advantage of having a metal bandsaw comes in. It doesn't mind being constantly showered in coolant! ;)
The fps speed of the blade moving is in line with the blade speed on my dedicated metal cutting bandsaw. If you run it much faster it will wear the teeth down faster when doing steel. The steel "dust" embedding itself into everything is just a good excuse to make a dedicated saw to use for metal only. And at that point you should make it a combination horizontal and vertical saw. Horizontal for long duration boring straight cuts through regular bar stock so you can do other things. And a vertical mode with a small table for doing more intricate manual cuts such as segmented bevel cuts for shaping curves of all sorts.
It's not just that metal saws run at lower rpm, it's that they have a much higher torque than motors for woodcutting. Engines for woodcutting would work with abrasive discs. A cold cut metal chop saw is the best tool for this job. The blades are expensive but they last hundreds of cuts, can handle steel many centimeters thick and they can be resharpened. A metal blade on the jigsaw or recipro saw will help for low volume work too. I'm all for the economic workshop but if you spend hours switching blades and losing time with a tool that doesn't work good enough, get a $50 jigsaw/recipro saw or a $30 angle grinder with a $20 pack of discs.
I'm just wondering, but I've noticed a lot of videos the last few days about using a "wood" bandsaw to cut metal. (And one about using a "metal" bandsaw to cut wood) Is this a UA-cam coordinated thing, or just a lot of people with similar ideas? Your pulley solution is definitely different than the others.
Curious about opinions on the use of a carbide tipped blade (eg Lennox Tri-Master).. With the protruding tip on both sides of a straight-set tooth I'd think something like that would not only be good for cutting metals but also give a cleaner cut on wood, too? Anyone used them for both materials (on a 'wood' bandsaw).. If someone feels like stumping up the cost to send one to Matthias, Lord of Bandsaws, I'd love to hear his views on one too.
Hi. I'm suprised TOT has n't built one! Very interesting. Metal cutting bandsaws command a much higher price, at least here, than wood cutting ones. As you say Mathias the profile could be much lower, maybe 10 cm/4 inch mouth. Still need a good throat depth. I wonder if an electronic phase converter speed controlled 3 phase motor would work? Personally, I'd not make it out of wood, but then my 'carving' is about as good as my welding. TOT - help! BobUK.
I don't know maybe you have to use two different saws for wood and metal due to the fact with metals you need to use oil during process, for that reason you can't use wood lathe for metal
Yeah, I can't stand his clickbait BS anymore. Every single video needs to have some kind of controversial title, even though its just, you guessed it, another NORMAL video.... hey ho! That's what you get when your attach monetary incentives to #of views. That's also why you get so many random channels pop up, who are stealing content from other popular channels to 'resell' it. They just want the views and ad impressions, so that they can make some money.
He went full sellout mode... and it's worked incredible well for him. he doubled his channel views and getting good sponsors. tractor, wood mill, firewood automation. then again. he's now complaining about his current viewers.. people who watch click bait videos...
Tips: no more than 500 sfm blade speed, unless you are cutting aluminum which cuts near wood speeds (800-2400sfm) and the thicker the material the less teeth you need. Always 2-3 teeth in the cut at all times.
And electromagnet powered by AC would partially work on all of those; I'm not sure if it would collect them to the coil but it would deflect their trajectory in a consistent way; Matthias has done a video about eddy currents so he should know how to best achieve this
wow bro I haven't seen u cut steal before I was about to recommend an SO air drill and blade at 53 rpm but it seems u got it. mostly teaching us I guess
Yo dawg, we heard you like electric motors, so we put an electric motor on your electric motor so so it can turn while it turns! *X's gonna give it to ya starts playing* Motorception.
Wasn't that kinda a bad idea? I mean the middle motor must have run as a dynamo the whole time, or not? Also couldn't he just have used the variac to under-voltage the existing motor? Or would that have needed pulsing instead? I'm still not that familiar with electric motor throttling o.o
> I mean the middle motor must have run as a dynamo the whole time, or not? Induction motors can work as a generator, but need field excitation to do that well. Remanence has them act as (poor) generators for some time, though. As generators, they work with no load, no problems there. > Also couldn't he just have used the variac to under-voltage the existing motor? No, with an induction motor that will just stall the motor, making it turn slower, but also run much hotter; they usually burn out from that. > Or would that have needed pulsing instead? No, this would produce torque pulses in the machines which is generally no good. There is no good way to control speed on single-phase induction motors. Besides gearing.
Also, assuming the second motor was still wired, my daughters' curious minds want to know: Would the disabled motor generate (even a small amount) of electricity?
Yes. There is enough residual magnetic field in the iron you will see electricity. This is how a three phase motor can be used to run on single phase. Hook up six light bulbs (two in series; each series pair across the three phase) to see the difference in the third leg. Spin the 3phase motor with a pull rope, apply single phase, look at the bulbs. Good science experiment.
Thanks for answering my leading question - sometimes a forum post gets more cred than dumb ol' dad - and therefore provides a better learning opportunity for the girls.
I was cutting 1/4" hot rolled steel on my 16" wooden bandsaw today, worked great! It has a VFD which is certainly cheating, easy to adjust for different metals though. I use stick wax/lube for the bandsaw blade, and hacksaw blades as well. easy to apply, even during the cut.
Matthias - Your videos just never cease to amaze me. You continue to solve difficult problems with seeming ease. You make it look so simple, but in fact it's your ingenious mind at work that is simplifying things. I have learned so so much from your videos so thank you so much.
Paul Gilfeather best compliment ever! And i agree.
Absolutely agree! I teeter between "I did NOT know that..." and "Yes! I learned a thing!"
Forgive what may be a long polemic, but there is a point to the following story ...
Back during WWII, in 1941-42, the Royal Air Force (RAF) need an aircraft that flew as fast as a fighter, but still big enough to be a bomber. Due to a lack of metal, it also had to be made mostly of wood.
Enter the DeHavilland Mosquito. Known as the 'Mossy' and 'The Wooden Wonder', she was highly favoured by her RAF aircrew, as she exceeded expectations, so much so, her role was considerable exanded to also include being a night fighter, and the incredibly dangerous 'Pathfinder missions; she became one of the few multi-role aircraft of the era that continued to fly into the 50's.
As she was made almost entirely of wood, only the very best carpenters were employed to construct the critical parts of the fuselage, wings, etc. These men, and, iirc, women, were given a odd moniker ... 'chippy joiner'. But to be called a 'chippy joiner' was a mark of high esteem, as they were highly skilled engineers and woodworkers both, working to incredibly tight tolerances as wood allows.
To me, Mr. Wandel is a 'chippy joiner' ...
Paul Gilfeather xs
Absolutely. No matter what subject, I always learn something from watching this channel.
now you're talking my language!
although "3 tpi metal saw" are the four (?) scariest words you could've put together.
You're a braver man than I!
enjoyed.
This Old Tony hi tony!
This Old Tony funny seeing you in the wood realm...
The machines those particular blades are intended for are several times more powerful and much more rigidly constructed, for cutting heavy metal sections at (surprisingly) high speed.
Not something you would be doing at home.
I was watching some buzzfeed like i do and heard a metal band saw come on. just had to check it out. :)
gitwaza
I think I love your videos because you show us your failures and the process you use to fix it and make it work.
I wish my dad was still alive so I could tell him to subscribe to you. He would have loved this stuff.
Highest compliment possible right here. I feel the same.
Very nice. As a machinist, I feel like your observations are spot on. The only bigger stuff I've cut on a bandsaw are typically brass or plastics, Most of the time fancy shapes are cast and then finished.
The wood elves are learning to work metal! Someone tell AvE, quick!
Some folks are just elves. Wood, metal, plastic, pixies, it don't matter to me what I work with.
This comment had me dying
what’s AvE?
I've always found it interesting that we all assume that aluminum will cut so much faster but it's inherent softness is exactly what slows it down. For cutting aluminum the larger tooth gaps are key. For steel I usually use 16-24 tpi blades where a 3-6 tpi is more efficient for aluminum. As always, great video.
Yep: wood blades for aluminium, even router bits.
I love these videos, so cool to see the steps you take to solve problems or test your ideas. Keep it up!
I have a 93.5 inch Jet Bandsaw. I placed a small brush to clean off the sawdust on the lower wheel. It has kept the sawdust off both wheels for years and works great. Just a fyi...
Rookie question, but why are tires needed for wood cutting but not for metal?
I initially ran my first wood cutting saw without tires. WOrked fine, but narow blades dug into the wood over time, and it was louder. Neither of these would be a problem with wider metal cutting blades running slowly.
For a metal bandsaw you could add a magnet to catch the shavings from ferrous material you cut.
that means cleaning the magnet after every few cuts (there's quite a bit of metal that gets ground up)
put the magnet in small PLASTIC BAG that way it' easily clean
+Matthias Wandel
Put the magnet in a plastic housing then to clean it you just take the magnet out and all the shaving drop off. Seen people do that to clean shavings off the floor in workshop.
I've made chip collectors by sawing a slot lengthways in a piece of PVC pipe that will fit into the end of a shop vac hose. Then I mount it under the table so it tilts slightly upward at the open end with the blade riding in the slot. Hooking the vac to the pipe creates really high velocity suction and airflow around the blade and does a real good job of extracting chips before they ever get down to the wheel. Haven't done it to a metal cutting saw but no reason to believe it wouldn't work.
Matthias Wandel how about an electro magnet that cycles on off so the shavings are collected then when turned off they fall into a collector...
Dude you are the KING of diy
I love Matthias's brutal honesty even when reviewing his own created tools.
I always learn something from your videos! Thank you Mathias.
though i never plan on building any of my tools i always enjoy watching your vdeos because i learn something new everytime! cheers mate
Nice Job, Matthias!
You could use that same 2 motor setup with a similar pulley concept to make a REALLY FAST Bandsaw.
I enjoy watching you problem solving process, so please keep showing the parts that don't work along with your successes.
A small part of me only watches to hear the home town accent - I grew up in Dorchester before I moved to Denver in the early 90's.
Thanks for posting.
Coming soon, Mattias makes a portabandsaw from fence scraps, a motor from a kids toy car, and house light switch.
Top professional Diyer on UA-cam.
really cool, good idea to get multi speed to switch back and forth between metal and wood. however if you do not mind switching the blades you can keep the fast speed and cut even hardened steel super fast. this method is called friction cutting i think. this will only work for straight cuts. the blade will continue to cut metal no issue, but not wood any more. i do that on my 14 inch delta all the time, in fact been thinking of speeding it up for metal!
Matthias I have an interesting video idea for you. I like to thread wood and use bolts to hold things in my jigs which works amazingly well. Maybe you could set up a test apparatus to test the holding strength of machine bolts in diff species of various thicknesses. I for one would be interested.
Oh my god, of course you made a soda-can-cutting jig.
Very ingenious using the main motor as a jackshaft !
I learned a great deal watching Matthias! Thanks for Sharing! Have A Super Week!.....Gus
How about making a cone continuously variable transmission for the bandsaw Matthias? You've got all the tools, materials, machines and skills you would need for that.
Metal cutting will always be very slow, Mr. Wandel. I remember a metal shop project cutting out a trowel blade from 1/16 and took forever. A lot better than wearing your arm with a hacksaw any day.
When I first saw the title, I thought, "geez, this guy has made another bandsaw."
I was just a tiny bit disappointed he didn't :P
Part of the reason the blade stays cool is that the chips are hot, this is a feature of circular metal cutting saws called Cold Saws but I'm sure your blade is doing this to some extent as well. The geometry of the teeth is such that most of the heat ends up in the chip, which is then removed from the blade and the curf, leaving the blade and the material with minimal heating. In this way the chips serve as coolant for dry cutting.
You'll probably find that with any amount of curve this effect will be superceeded by friction of the blade on the sides of the cut, so cutting straight is imperative to long blade life.
This video was the best safety trolling ive ever seen :)
I set up an industrial vertical bandsaw in our workshop which comes with a 6tpi wood cutting blade as standard and put a 13tpi metal cutting blade on without changing anything else and it cuts steel and aluminium perfectly fine up to 6mm/.25", but it's just a bit too slow for anything thicker (that's what plasma or oxy/acet is for).
The slight (?) difference between ours and your DIY is that it has a built-in nozzle which blows a stream of air and keeps chips mostly out of the innards.
.
Incidently: TC insert router bits work perfectly well on aluminium in an ordinary router, although smearing a hard wax lube on the metal first isn't such a bad idea.
Flip your vise over! Flip your vise over so the jaws are down, put the material in between the jaws, still sitting on the table, tighten. This way the material is supported on either side of the cut and when you break through as at 7:36, it is less likely to jam the blade. Also, clamping force on the piece is less important for holding the piece square to the table.
Would adding some kind of brush on the lower wheel help clean the wheel of all the dust and chips?
Matthias, not sure how slow it is but all metal cutting band saws cut slow. If you are used to cutting wood, then you'll feel it's slow but if you are used to a hack saw you'll think that they are quick and a godsend. Hey if the first motor was a permanent magnet motor, would you be able to somehow feed the induced emf back to the first one. As always, very inspirational work.
Hello
Good and useful thoughts from chopping wood to iron remained hovering chopping and fish frozen on the way and cut them into neat fit
I always learn something in your video. Thanks for your good, honest content.
We had a blade like that last one you ran on a horizontal bandsaw in a machine shop I worked in. It could cut through cold rolled steel almost like it was pine. I would clamp 3, or 4 bars of steel together on the roller table and let that saw cut them all at once. You'd have liked that saw. It had hydraulic power stock feed. So when it got done with a cut it would lift itself up, open its vise, then another vise would push the stock forward. That saw was accurate to better than a thousandth of an inch all day long. What that saw did didn't even look possible.
I can slow down my woodcutting bandsaw as well for metal. Really like that when I need to cut a lot of metal much cleaner and quieter than the angle grinder.
What speeds and TPI do you use for each typically??
@@jbh.6257 I don´t know.. the bandsaw had 2 fixed speeds. Fast for wood and slow for metal, don´t know the number. I have sold the bandsaw maybe a year ago so I don´t have the blades anymore either, if I recall correctly it probably was a 14tpi blade.
@@RobinCoomans ok thanks for reply, what brand saw? Would you recommend it ?
Almost 1 Million Matthias! Nice work!
Worth put a brush to clean the dust/particles from the lower wheel?
It's good to see an engineering mind at work
lovely clean cuts with those blades.well done.
The bandsaw at my workplace spins just as fast as a regular bandsaw. it has 2 speed but for regular metal we always use the faster setting
The cut was SUPER CLEAN. Waou. But you know you should add air cleanup and vaccum systems, in order for your air not to be polluted by dust. . .
I just converted a small wood cutting bandsaw to metal as my shop becomes more geared towards metal working. It's definitely a shock with how slow the cutting action is lol
Matthias - You should buy a cheap VFD for your motors to allow for full adjust ability for your bandsaws?
Enjoyed your video. Planning to make the changes to my band saw and wondering if the attached controller would work. Found this on Amazon
L&Z DC Motor Speed Controller PWM 6-90V 15A Brush Motor Adjustment Control Module 1000W 16kHZ
Brand: L&Z
3.5 out of 5 stars 27 ratings
$29.99
When dealing with things that take a long time to cut and snag on the blad easily, perhaps you could make a screw-advance jig with a large gearing ratio so theres no chance of pushing the piece too far?
Cool and thank you for the information Mathias; I have been contemplating making one at home myself.
So I'm aware that this video is nearly 4 years old, and I'm aware that this was just an experiment.
However... I'm really disappointed that you didn't build a 2 speed wooden planetary gear-set that tucks neatly behind the lower wheel and is actuated by a knob on the front! :D
Someone else way down in the comments has probably already said it, but if not... you can run your blade faster, 250 sfpm or so for mild steel up to an inch thick or so. As long as the blade isn't overheating, you can go faster. That's one advantage of a longer blade: more time to cool between passes through the material. I've thought about making some heatsink cooling wheels or even a small cooling fan, but haven't gotten around to trying it yet.
Interesting use of the band saw.!
Great video Matthias. I have a question, what is the name of your blue clamp that has beed used in this video?
Make a guide for your vise. Vise is tied to a string, attached to a weight hanging off the table. You can go off and doing other things, while still keeping an eye on it. Just enough weight to keep some tension against the blade. Old timers trick.
Nice try, but I'm still going to buy that 4x6 metal cutting bandsaw. ;-)
I'm curious if that will be any use on wood, at all.
They have a worm drive to get around that speed/belt problem you encountered.
Those saws a re great for what they do, but for wood, a chopsaw will serve you much better.
I do have a decent table saw, a but whenever I see you cut crazy tight curves in thick pieces of wood I suddenly want a bandsaw. ;-)
The 4x6 flips up for vertical cutting, and I was wondering if it might work for wood in that mode, albeit slow and with rather limited throat. It'll be useful anyway, even if the wood thing won't pan out.
could you make a wooden gear using a spindle sander to cut the notches
Hi Love your videos. Question for you. At 1:26 you use a hand drill to get your shaft hole but you don't use a drill guide to keep it at 90 degrees. Is there a reason? Do you not like drill guides? I'm looking at one for my shaft holes because I can't drill a straight hole to save my life.
Mostly I don't like getting questions about the drill guide every time I use it, so decided not to use it.
Thanks. My shaky left hand makes it rough to hold things without help. Since you are so good thought I'd ask. Well great job anyway. You do always amaze me. Keep up the great projects.
I'd love to see a powered hacksaw build Matthias, they're great for larger stock because you can walk away and leave them cutting.
What about a brush on the inside that brushes off the wheels constantly?
Hi Mattias, would it be possible to build a Horizontal Wood cutting bandsaw, i need to cross cut large oak beams of 250mm x 250mm.
whew, at of all your amazing videos, i have to say this is the most initially "red-flag" video. when the flange was being cut off after removing the table from your excellent band-saw, I cringed. if parallel grain was caught in regards to blade/teeth travel, holy mackerel it could have taken your hand into the band saw blade. I've been lucky enough to learn from mangled push-sticks, etc. that when a blade catches plywood grain just right, WOW, devastation. i know how meticulous you are and you are incredibly humble showing your "mistakes" (which is my favorite part of your videos because it shows a true woodworker's process, unedited), please caution viewers on this matter. none the less...the rest of the video/process is wonderful. thanks again matthias, please continue your efforts, i love following your progress and projects. :-) loyal viewer, Patrick
ps: i am aware that you are familiar with your machines and how well they are built/ limitation but someone following you might not be so aware or lucky. I am in no way questioning your skill, it's just a cautionary comment.
Could the blade speed be any faster Matthias? Would it improve the cut?
faster blade speeds risk damaging the blade with metal cutting (though it could have been faster for some applications)
I was going to say; speed it up! ;)
I have done similar experiments with a cheap wood bandsaw, because I didn't want to spend money on a proper metal bandsaw, and it was quite successful actually. I have found that 13TPI blades may actually be too many teeth for metal. I have started using fewer TPI on my proper metal bandsaw, and I run them slightly faster. And that seems to yield a decent balance between cut smoothness and speed. =)
For aluminum, just use wood cutting speeds. Steel needs to be slow (100-300 fps).
Yeah, I agree. Definitely run it faster for Aluminium, cause its quite a soft material (relatively speaking).
If you are going to cut a lot of metal, I would use a dedicated bandsaw. And you're going to need coolant, which won't work very well with a wooden frame saw. That's where the advantage of having a metal bandsaw comes in. It doesn't mind being constantly showered in coolant! ;)
100-300 fps? What are your blades made out of boron nitride? 100 SFPM is what HSS can handle on mild steel.
The fps speed of the blade moving is in line with the blade speed on my dedicated metal cutting bandsaw. If you run it much faster it will wear the teeth down faster when doing steel. The steel "dust" embedding itself into everything is just a good excuse to make a dedicated saw to use for metal only. And at that point you should make it a combination horizontal and vertical saw. Horizontal for long duration boring straight cuts through regular bar stock so you can do other things. And a vertical mode with a small table for doing more intricate manual cuts such as segmented bevel cuts for shaping curves of all sorts.
Love your videos, hope you can find more time to upload more.
I really look forward to your videos. Always interesting and innovative.
Awesome job!! I love following your projects...
does the big teeth metal blade have any disadvantages when cutting wood? does it stay sharp longer?
It's not just that metal saws run at lower rpm, it's that they have a much higher torque than motors for woodcutting. Engines for woodcutting would work with abrasive discs.
A cold cut metal chop saw is the best tool for this job. The blades are expensive but they last hundreds of cuts, can handle steel many centimeters thick and they can be resharpened.
A metal blade on the jigsaw or recipro saw will help for low volume work too. I'm all for the economic workshop but if you spend hours switching blades and losing time with a tool that doesn't work good enough, get a $50 jigsaw/recipro saw or a $30 angle grinder with a $20 pack of discs.
Nice video. Maybe could you add a brush on the lower wheel to clean it while cutting ?
I hope your next project after the move to the new house would be a metal cutting bandsaw 😃
I'm just wondering, but I've noticed a lot of videos the last few days about using a "wood" bandsaw to cut metal. (And one about using a "metal" bandsaw to cut wood) Is this a UA-cam coordinated thing, or just a lot of people with similar ideas? Your pulley solution is definitely different than the others.
wasn't aware of other such videos
(wood)gears instead of pulleys on a metal cutting bandsaw?
Why wouldn't the rubber inner tube be necessary if you were using it for metal cutting? Isn't it so that the blade won't slip on the pulley?
it keeps the saw quieter. Not necessary at low speeds.
Curious about opinions on the use of a carbide tipped blade (eg Lennox Tri-Master).. With the protruding tip on both sides of a straight-set tooth I'd think something like that would not only be good for cutting metals but also give a cleaner cut on wood, too? Anyone used them for both materials (on a 'wood' bandsaw).. If someone feels like stumping up the cost to send one to Matthias, Lord of Bandsaws, I'd love to hear his views on one too.
mchamster7 I use the trimaster for cutting wood. It's fantastic
Hi. I'm suprised TOT has n't built one! Very interesting. Metal cutting bandsaws command a much higher price, at least here, than wood cutting ones. As you say Mathias the profile could be much lower, maybe 10 cm/4 inch mouth. Still need a good throat depth. I wonder if an electronic phase converter speed controlled 3 phase motor would work? Personally, I'd not make it out of wood, but then my 'carving' is about as good as my welding. TOT - help! BobUK.
I don't know maybe you have to use two different saws for wood and metal due to the fact with metals you need to use oil during process, for that reason you can't use wood lathe for metal
Looks like you made 30 test cuts before you had the right sized dowel.
see previous video where those samples came from
May I ask if your bandsaw is able to cut wood with nails? What TPI saw blade and speed?
If Wranglestar did the same video, he would title it "LOST A FINGER WHILE IMPROVING MY CHAINSAW" or something...
He likes clickbait
Does anyone know how I can block seeing his BS ?
Yeah, I can't stand his clickbait BS anymore. Every single video needs to have some kind of controversial title, even though its just, you guessed it, another NORMAL video.... hey ho! That's what you get when your attach monetary incentives to #of views. That's also why you get so many random channels pop up, who are stealing content from other popular channels to 'resell' it. They just want the views and ad impressions, so that they can make some money.
How I almost died the other day....video shows him making breakfast and reading newspaper.
He went full sellout mode... and it's worked incredible well for him. he doubled his channel views and getting good sponsors. tractor, wood mill, firewood automation. then again. he's now complaining about his current viewers.. people who watch click bait videos...
Would a decent variable speed motor be a better solution here? Probably :)
Corwin Bos sckookum
Tips: no more than 500 sfm blade speed, unless you are cutting aluminum which cuts near wood speeds (800-2400sfm) and the thicker the material the less teeth you need. Always 2-3 teeth in the cut at all times.
How about using a strong magnet to collect the metal chips, so that You avoid them spread all around?
Of course it's useless for aluminum, stainless, magnesium, etc
And electromagnet powered by AC would partially work on all of those; I'm not sure if it would collect them to the coil but it would deflect their trajectory in a consistent way; Matthias has done a video about eddy currents so he should know how to best achieve this
Eddy currents work in larger pieces of metal. Chips would develop basically no eddy current, and therefore basically no deflection.
was there a particular reason for not using a frequency drive?
I don't have one and didn't want to spend the money
I think using a DC variable speed motor would simplify the motor on motor setup.
Hello, Sorry to ask, do You work with carpentry or is it justy a hobby.?.
Good video Matthias.
Its a great video but you could just put in a motor speed controller to adjust the speed, why didnt you do that?
not for running the motor at 1/15th it's speed and over it's rated torque.
are you going to revisit your andmill design and improve it.
you can cut a pop can with a regular wood blade at high speed
and yes, I tried it!
time to make a horizontal metal cutting bandsaw???
wow bro I haven't seen u cut steal before
I was about to recommend an SO air drill and blade at 53 rpm but it seems u got it.
mostly teaching us I guess
At 6:19, he said pop can. That's the correct way to call it.
Why did you need to slow down the blade for metal?
Vadim Romanovich so the blade doesn't get too hot
Whats the rpms i have a 2 metal bandsaws and the both a veritable speed starting from 60 all the way up to 500 rpms
see linked article
Yo dawg, we heard you like electric motors, so we put an electric motor on your electric motor so so it can turn while it turns!
*X's gonna give it to ya starts playing*
Motorception.
Bert Bertmann vintage
That was Xzibit, not DMX.
Wasn't that kinda a bad idea? I mean the middle motor must have run as a dynamo the whole time, or not?
Also couldn't he just have used the variac to under-voltage the existing motor?
Or would that have needed pulsing instead? I'm still not that familiar with electric motor throttling o.o
> I mean the middle motor must have run as a dynamo the whole time, or not?
Induction motors can work as a generator, but need field excitation to do that well. Remanence has them act as (poor) generators for some time, though.
As generators, they work with no load, no problems there.
> Also couldn't he just have used the variac to under-voltage the existing motor?
No, with an induction motor that will just stall the motor, making it turn slower, but also run much hotter; they usually burn out from that.
> Or would that have needed pulsing instead?
No, this would produce torque pulses in the machines which is generally no good.
There is no good way to control speed on single-phase induction motors. Besides gearing.
How do you line up 2 different size holes to be on center?
hi matias , can I use a speed reducer???for cutting metal, thank you
Also, assuming the second motor was still wired, my daughters' curious minds want to know: Would the disabled motor generate (even a small amount) of electricity?
Yes. There is enough residual magnetic field in the iron you will see electricity. This is how a three phase motor can be used to run on single phase. Hook up six light bulbs (two in series; each series pair across the three phase) to see the difference in the third leg. Spin the 3phase motor with a pull rope, apply single phase, look at the bulbs. Good science experiment.
Thanks for answering my leading question - sometimes a forum post gets more cred than dumb ol' dad - and therefore provides a better learning opportunity for the girls.
can you no cut aluminium with a wood blade
waiting patiently for you wooden metal cutting version build ,lol
I was cutting 1/4" hot rolled steel on my 16" wooden bandsaw today, worked great! It has a VFD which is certainly cheating, easy to adjust for different metals though. I use stick wax/lube for the bandsaw blade, and hacksaw blades as well. easy to apply, even during the cut.
How about a 2x72" sander made from wood?